I didn't. But thought about it. I might try that tomorrow to see if there's anyway to gain some slack there.
I didn't. But thought about it. I might try that tomorrow to see if there's anyway to gain some slack there.
Went back in an removed that white box and it seems that there is some slack in the colored tonearm cables themselves, but its that one nude color cable going into the box that has no slack. Maybe there's a work around, but I can't figure it out. This is a close up of how my cartridge is sitting on an LP during play. Anyone know someone in the NY area that works on turntables, preferably Thorens?
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bimasta
Addicted Member
Your arrow points to 2 wires, so I'm not sure which you mean.
There's a chassis-ground-wire (the thin one): it grounds the two parts of the suspended chassis. It does not travel Up or Down when you raise or lower the arm, so it can't be pulled too tight. It's not the problem.
But it also points to a screw which has another wire (thicker) that goes into hiding under the white box. That probably connects to the tonearm-ground-wire.
If it were me, I'd look under the white box — that's where the 4 signal-wires exit the arm-base (and a fifth arm-ground wire) and connect to the thicker black output cable.
I suspect that's where the problem is. It could be very simple you'll see: maybe a wire is snarled on something and can't move freely. Just remove the box, and snap another photo. Nothing will be damaged.
There's a chassis-ground-wire (the thin one): it grounds the two parts of the suspended chassis. It does not travel Up or Down when you raise or lower the arm, so it can't be pulled too tight. It's not the problem.
But it also points to a screw which has another wire (thicker) that goes into hiding under the white box. That probably connects to the tonearm-ground-wire.
If it were me, I'd look under the white box — that's where the 4 signal-wires exit the arm-base (and a fifth arm-ground wire) and connect to the thicker black output cable.
I suspect that's where the problem is. It could be very simple you'll see: maybe a wire is snarled on something and can't move freely. Just remove the box, and snap another photo. Nothing will be damaged.
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Thanks, bimasta. Here is a photo with the box off. Seems that there is enough slack in the 4 signal wires to give me the 2mm more I need to raise the tonearm. Nothing seems snagged.
So I carefully stood the TT on its side so I could loosen the hex nuts and tried to raise and lower the arm while watching what was going on underneath. The white circular drum into which the tonearm wires go tuns nicely and the wire did not reach any stretching point. But at some point when I tried to raise the arm, the drum seems to be scraping against something and not turning, as if its reached its maximum height and is not designed to go any further.
Looks like this is the way the TT is built. Not a big deal and am very happy with how its performing, though. I want to thank you again for all your help and guidance. Its been very instructive!
bimasta
Addicted Member
As it looks normal to you, and within the limitations of a static photo, I can only guess at this point.
There may be a 'stop' to set a 'maximum height' for the arm, in connection with the auto-liftoff — too high and the lift won't reach it. If so, it would be intentional. (I know the cue-bar is height-adjustable, but within limits).
Yet you describe a "scraping sound". That suggests something out of adjustment, two parts scraping that shouldn't be — Thorens didn't design scraping sounds into their TTs. I'd be tempted to examine further to locate what's scraping — but I've played inside a few TD125s and one 126, and probably feel more comfortable doing it. At least you've learned a lot more about your superb TT through this process. For example, you'll know how to adjust the suspension, should it be needed.
It's good you're happy with it, but that arm-angle just doesn't look right. Nor intentional. I couldn't let it rest, but that's just me and my 'perfectionism.' For instance, I'd take out that screw with the blue paint (last pic) to see what lurks below that white disk. Of course, I'm not trying to tempt you... farthest thought from my mind...
There may be a 'stop' to set a 'maximum height' for the arm, in connection with the auto-liftoff — too high and the lift won't reach it. If so, it would be intentional. (I know the cue-bar is height-adjustable, but within limits).
Yet you describe a "scraping sound". That suggests something out of adjustment, two parts scraping that shouldn't be — Thorens didn't design scraping sounds into their TTs. I'd be tempted to examine further to locate what's scraping — but I've played inside a few TD125s and one 126, and probably feel more comfortable doing it. At least you've learned a lot more about your superb TT through this process. For example, you'll know how to adjust the suspension, should it be needed.
It's good you're happy with it, but that arm-angle just doesn't look right. Nor intentional. I couldn't let it rest, but that's just me and my 'perfectionism.' For instance, I'd take out that screw with the blue paint (last pic) to see what lurks below that white disk. Of course, I'm not trying to tempt you... farthest thought from my mind...
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I hear you. I'm not likely done (and getting increasingly comfortable taking this thing apart and putting back together again. Seems to me that the fin that sticks off the barrel (at around the 6 o'clock mark) limits how far up into the shaft the barrel can go. Not sure if its a design issue or a defect on my table. I do see others complaining about being able to get a level VTA with the TP-62 wand and modern cartridges in part because the way the headshell on the TP-62 is designed. They say one fix is to move to a TP-63. But not giving up yet!
bimasta
Addicted Member
Yeah, my eye zoomed in on that 'fin' right away: looks like a designed-stop — but it wouldn't "scrape", just stop.
I never used the Thorens arms, no matter which model. I always replaced them with what I thought "better", so I can't really advise re the arm in isolation. Changing arms on my 126 meant losing the auto-lift, which I'd rather have kept — I thought I could have made it work, but never had the time to try.
As for the headshell, my 126 had a sliding 'block' — not the horrid old h'shells Thorens used to use. But the old h'shells at least raised the cartridge quite a bit above the level of the armtube (which the block didn't) and that could very well account for your height issue.
Just to close the loop here, I ended up getting a couple of TP-63 wands - they were delivered from Germany just this weekend and that's done the trick. I have the VTA right were it needs to be for the AT. Also installed the AT VM Mono cartridge on the 2nd arm. Got the cork/rubber mat and center weight as suggested and had a great time with this TT this week, listening to hours of vinyl. Thanks for all the thoughtful advice!
KentTeffeteller
Gimpus Stereophilus!
This arm is low mass. I'd put an Ortofon OM or Super OM series on it, a Super OM 20 and get the Ortofon 78 RPM stylus for that. Better match for the tonearm than a 2M is. And the Audio-Technica you have, is superb for mono duty.