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Three-way active crossovers....anyone use one?

LexDM3 said:
Mark Hardy. I've been trying to reach you but you are unreachable via "conversations." Please contact me.

Thanks. -Dan
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Chances are he'll see a PM much sooner than this post.

You might also check diyAudio and Audio Asylum, a large number of members now absent from AK still actively participate on those forums.
 
Personally, though MiniDSP is king these days, as it has more parameters to adjust, but I like the simplicity of an active XO. Just do some math as to find the frequencies, attenuation, phase (inverted or not) where you should start at, then dial in and fine tune from there. A measuring mic and software helps, but your ears are good enough, as you know what you like and what you don't like. The only issue is having to tri-amp, though these days you can build a 6-Channel Class D 80WPC amp for less than $150.00.
 
Ashly XR2001 is a great way to go. Thru hole component boards are easy to work on and upgrade if you like. Sounds better than most active crossovers in stock mode, and can be improved. I've tried 3, one other was analog, one was digital and the Ashly sounded best.

I believe the XR1001 should be the same you just need two of them for 3 way as another poster has already mentioned.
 
PR Audio said:
The only issue is having to tri-amp, though these days you can build a 6-Channel Class D 80WPC amp for less than $150.00.
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Tony, I have a Rotel 6 channel amp for just this purpose. I think it's 30 wpc into 8 ohms, but with a lot of headroom.
 
You really only need higher power ratings for the woofers, if at all.
My worry with building a passive from the active settings that it just won't sound as good.
Tweaking is a hell of a lot harder with passives.
 
essNeff said:
You really only need higher power ratings for the woofers, if at all.
My worry with building a passive from the active settings that it just won't sound as good.
Tweaking is a hell of a lot harder with passives.
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What would be lost by going passive? BTW, I have a thread up about passive vs active: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/passive-or-active.709889/#post-9534917

This thread got me thinking and I hope the OP doesn't mind the excess active crossover chatter. Maybe it gives a glimmer about what's involved. Hope the OP posts back about his thinking on the Karlson's. Awhile back, on the Single Driver Forum there were some measurements of the Karlson with different drivers. There was a guy (Freddy?) that was nuts about his Karlsons. Really a different enclosure and fairly able by the reading I've done.
 
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essNeff said:
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You should also consider Mini-Dsp. They make software solutions in addition to the hardware they sell configurable by laptop. They feature a superior SNR than the DCX ...
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I have both miniDSP and DCX2496. The 2496 seems more quiet to me, from memory, as it's been a little while since I used either.
 
This is what I use.. A one rack unit BSS-FDS366T Omni Drive Compact + Loudspeaker Management System and it IMHO/E smokes every one of any active xover`s that I`ve ever used, pro or home for nearly 40 years..

It`s a very high performance DSP crossover with 96 bit processing. And firmware updateable too.

Set your xover freg`s, crossover type, input/output levels & then hook up a quality measurement mike at your "sweet spot and let it run it`s calibration process for polarity, time alignment between the low`s, mid`s, high`s and your done..

It`s a pro active xover so it has XLR balanced in/outs, which is perfect for me in my tri-amp Mac amplifier`s configuration that drive my MAC XRT 30 speaker living room`s setup, as the power amplifiers have, and I use the balanced inputs..

There are 2 minus` : # 1 kinda pricy, as I paid $ 2,500 ea. for (2) around 5 years ago, though only one is needed for stereo tri-amp`g, but wanted to have a backup spare...
And # 2: It uses a very small high speed noisy fan, in which it`s fan noise is/was totally unacceptable from my living room`s A/V rack.

So after e-mailing the company and not being able to get advice on improving the noisy fan situation(remember this is a high quality pro grade/PA application rack mount crossover), I decided to send the top cover(lid, if you will) to a CNC capable custom metal fabricator to duplicate the top with plenty of vent holes punched in it`s replacement lid so to keep the original top cover for warranty return or resale.

So I did this so I could remove it`s side mounted fan and a 9 pin removable back panel computer interface connector to allow convection drawn air input through their openings to keep the processor comfortable.
I also left two rack spaces above the crossover to allow unrestricted air to reach it.

Ran the unit on my bench for 48 hrs. to make sure it would not get upset with this new non factory approved silent cooling setup before installing in the A/V rack..
And after over 5 years of weekly use, I`m pretty sure it`s not unhappy.

With the prior purchase of (4) Mac MC 275 version VI`s ea. set for mono for the L/R highs and mid frequency`s I didn`t wish the crossover to negatively effect the sound, and all ears that have heard it after installation agree that this crossover is a keeper and seems to have added no coloration to the sound and is very transparent..

Anyway folks, FWIW. that`s what I now use and recommend to anyone serious about tri/bi-amping their system..

Kind regards, OKB
 
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Cosmos said:
Overall, I believe the Behringer DCX 2496 is a fantastic starting place. Extremely flexible and with the right cable, adjustable via laptop at your listening position. Additionally, it sounds better than the DBX driverack PA+ and 260. Once you get everything dialed in, you might choose to go to Marchand and have him build a crossover to the specs you created or just stay where you are. I can guarantee you, it performs much better than it's low price.
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I agree with everything in this post. I actually A/B'd the Driverack and 2496 with identical settings and the 2496 was the clear winner. I can't imagine living without it now.
whoaru99 said:
I have both miniDSP and DCX2496. The 2496 seems more quiet to me, from memory, as it's been a little while since I used either.
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After an easy mod to fix the frying egg problem, mine is dead quiet. I use all balanced cables in and out.
 
audiomagnate said:
I agree with everything in this post. I actually A/B'd the Driverack and 2496 with identical settings and the 2496 was the clear winner. I can't imagine living without it now.

After an easy mod to fix the frying egg problem, mine is dead quiet. I use all balanced cables in and out.
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Tell me more, please, about this frying egg problem and the mod.. I have one that makes terrible noise occasionally, then it's dead quiet..
 
Cosmos said:
Tell me more, please, about this frying egg problem and the mod.. I have one that makes terrible noise occasionally, then it's dead quiet..
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It's the CS8420 clock/SRC chip, replace it. Some who have replaced with CS8416 report that in addition to fixing the frying egg issue, it sounds even better.
 
My problem was intermittent and your results may vary, but I read on some pro music board that placing a piece of plastic between the input board and the bottom chassis worked. Just for the heck of it I popped the cover, located the board, which is right where the three xlr input connectors are, and slid an old plastic library card between the bottom panel and the board. It's a a tight fit so no adhesive is necessary. That was several months ago and the problem hasn't returned. I guess it's worth a try as it's easy and free.
 
Beat me to the punch...was gonna ask the same, hoping some of the tech-types would chime in an compare/contrast the two methods of sorting out the frequencies.

Got a passive x over that I think is getting pretty tired due to being rode hard and some times put away wet.

Have heard that both systems have their pros/cons. I like the dealing in, and can also appreciate the inherent danger in doing so.

Good choice of thread!:thumbsup:

Q
 
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Urchinn said:
Okay, I'm looking at this active crossover: BEHRINGER SUPER-X PRO CX3400. There is no place for banana clips, and instead have some sort of three-contact plugs. Probably common enough to musicians, but I haven't used them. How are trad speaker cables adapted to this three-prong connection. Please forgive the dumb question....but I'm pretty new to this DIY stuff.
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The DCX 2496 is better, it has a dead silent noise floor, adjustable gain, adjustable crossover slopes as well as phase control, time delay, dynamic range control, parametric equalizer with adjustable Q.

I am running a pair of ESS AMT 1B speakers as three ways with the addition of a pair of Emenance Alpha 6's as midrange drivers.

The purchase of a DCX 2496 has turned out to be one of the best decisions I've made in this audio hobby.

My ESS Franken speakers are now giant killers that could stand their own against pretty much anything.
 
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The dbx DriveRack is the way to go. The DriveRack PA will do almost all of what their later, more expensive, models do with the same vital specs. If you run JBL PA equipment, this is a no brainer as they already have JBL in mind in their preset curves. These can be quite reasonable for used units.

Do the research and compare for yourself. Especially look at things like S/N ratio because this will be the last thing in the audio chain before your power amps and there will be no attenuation of any noise present in the unit.
 
SleeperSupra said:
The DCX 2496 is better, it has a dead silent noise floor, adjustable gain, adjustable crossover slopes as well as phase control, time delay, dynamic range control, parametric equalizer with adjustable Q.

I am running a pair of ESS AMT 1B speakers as three ways with the addition of a pair of Emenance Alpha 6's as midrange drivers.

The purchase of a DCX 2496 has turned out to be one of the best decisions I've made in this audio hobby.

My ESS Franken speakers are now giant killers that could stand their own against pretty much anything.
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Did you start a thread on these puppy's? I'd love to see them!
 
essNeff said:
Did you start a thread on these puppy's? I'd love to see them!
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I'm still working things out. I'm only doing crossover adjustments for one speaker at the moment and when I have it perfect I will duplicate the settings for the other speaker. I have built a box for the midrange that is sealed and one that is ported so that I can accurately compare the two.

I'm using the untouched speaker as a reference point for comparison.
 
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