MyLastWord
Active Member
Yep! new Diodes in for D6, D7 (1N4004), new 10R/2W resistor, new 2200uf/35V for C23 doesn't get the 24VDC. Give up..
The DBT is what is reducing your input voltage. It is to be used to protect the amp from overload like shorted output transistors, shorted rectifiers etc. during troubleshooting. Once you can power on with the bulb going bright then dimming down you are done with the DBT. You MUST remove it so full power can flow in order to get full voltages on the secondary side.It's plugged into to DBT, to normal wall socket (Canada so 110-120v).. Not sure what else could be in the primary circuit..
OK, then the problem that causes the resistor to smoke has to be figured out first, before going back to full power OR worrying about other things.You are right, straight from the wall it's 117VAC, but the 10R/2W resistor smoked immediately..
With no load on it the caps will charge up to the peak rectifier input voltage of the secondary that feeds the rectifiers. That does not mean that it is a bad transformer, just that there is no load on the circuit.With the 10R/2W removed, D6/D7 is at 45VDC... only two C10 0.010uF and C23 2200uF/35V in this circuit.
I believe they were wrong about the transformer, looks like a power supply problem instead. If Q6 is bad that leads back into the rest of the voltage regulator. Do a diode test on D8 (14v zener).Pulled Q5 to test via diodes function show good.. Q6 is bad, no voltage (not sure it was shot when sparks fly or before). resistance between pin16 to ground (chassis or pin15) show around 100R. This unit I got from someone saying the TF is bad, need replaced and there were no fuse in FU5, FU6. So put in the new fuses to check around the TF but it keep blowing up FU5 & FU6 fuses.