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trivia: looking for p-mount turntable with dynamically-balanced tangential tonearm

HamboneF18 said:
Is that an ADC PSX30/40?
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yup, it was a gold body adc psx. it was awhile ago and at the time i had 1 gold, 2 silver bodies, but strangely i haven't run across any more bodies since and i don't think they're particularly rare. i'd like to have more, but i doubt there's any electrical differences between the models...i just have a lot of styli for them: 6 adc rpsx30, 1 evg rpsx30, 1 unknown rpsx20, 1 adc rpsx10. i think the suspension is shot on all the adc rpsx30 styli now. both generic rpsx20/30 sound better. i originally had an adc rpsx30 that sounded great, but i wrongly got rid of it when the elastomer grommet developed a split thinking that meant the suspension was shot (no, no, no not even close).

i'm envious--i've never had an rpsx40, but since one of my fav styli is an audio technica .2 x .7 nude square shank i'm sure it sounded great in its day.
 
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The silver and gold bodies aren’t the same. There’s a difference in generators. If I had to guess, I’d say the 10/20 bodies use a 2-coil generator vs 4-coil generator in the 30/40.

I’ve got a NOS Series IV stylus (Shown) and a NOS PSX 40 stylus, 2 PSX 30s, and 1 each 10 and 20. The 30 has an aluminum canti, the 40 is thin walled titanium. I was surprised how good the titanium cantilever sounds! Of course, no difference between a Series IV stylus and the PSX40. IMO the titanium canti delivers more texture and detail than the aluminum canti of the 30. But both have a great sound.

The Series IV NOS NIB stylus only cost me $38. It was in a Pfanstiehl package and flew under the radar, since few know what a “Series IV” stylus is.
 
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yeah, your series iv with the smokey grip didn't escape my attention, hence my envy. the at styli i referenced in comparison is the atn221ep. i know the cantilever is tapered, but i think the material is still aluminum. i think it's now an imperative to find out one day which i prefer, the adc or at. (plus it would be an mm vs mi shootout.)

well damn, now that i know there's a difference in the bodies the loss of the only gold one i had aches more.

edit: wait, which body did the gold belong to? both my silver bodies had an rpsx30, but who knows what was original.
 
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How many coils in that 30/40 body? Or did you toss it? I’ll measure the coils of the 10/20 vs the 30/40, and post.

Ok. Took inventory. I have 3 gold bodies and 1 silver body. 3 NOS PSX 40 styli, 2 PSX 30, and generics for the 10/20.

Resistance measurements are 950 ohms for the gold bodies, and 1150 for the silver bodies.

Gold body is the PSX30 and PSX 40. Same body, different styli. Silver body is the lesser PSX 10 and 20. 10 is bonded conical, 20 is bonded 4x7 elliptical. Both 30 and 40 are nudes.
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Blurry object is the NOS PSX40 stylus. It just says “ADC” on the nose. That’s also why it flew under the radar. But it has the unmistakable graphite grey shiny cantilever and nude elliptical tip.
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I have the AT VS215EP. It’s upgradeable by changing styli. I like it better than the AT wedges (AT8008, 331LP, 100x, 3003, etc.) I don’t like it nearly as much as the PSX40.
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I’m a fan of the DP-7F. The light weight plinth and platter are not high end, of course, but I think it is a really nice example of what was available on the budget end of the market during the golden age of vinyl— quartz lock, servo arm… it just works and sounds great. In my opinion, it is superior to most new turntables until you spend serious money.

I’m using the DP-7F with small speakers in a near field arrangement, so massive isolation from vibration is not required. I have higher “build quality” turntables connected to this system, but the DP-7F is the easiest to reach, and it sounds great with an ADC PSX-40 cartridge. Currently, it’s my daily driver.

(I also have some linear trackers. Never had a “thump” problem. If the hole is that off-center, it will probably sound bad on any turntable short of a Nakamichi Dragon.)
 
Pio1980 said:
Nak had two versions of Dragon TTs (...)
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Not quite. Instead, they had two turntable models with auto-centering function, the TX-1000 and the Dragon CT. With the TX-1000 being the real monster - and the Dragon CT still being pretty impressive, but not quite as much.

Greetings from Munich!

Manfred / lini
 
HamboneF18 said:
How many coils in that 30/40 body? Or did you toss it? I’ll measure the coils of the 10/20 vs the 30
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no, i held onto it. i imagine it's repairable if someone with the tools wanted to go to the bother. here's an image of the interior. now all we need is for someone else to destroy a silver body and weep.
IMG_20220926_014329.jpg
i dug out the dp-7f's tonight. aside from the tonearm start/stop motor switch and the auto-return not working (a common problem i think) on 1 of the units, i think the particularly weak points of the dp-7f are the chassis/feet and the platter. the tonearm implementation seems solid and the quartz lock via a tape head reading a signal recorded on the platter (vs hall sensor) is as good as it gets. the feet are dead easy to fix, but i'm thinking the chassis and platter are going to need significant dampening. i like the turntable mat though and it looks like the hinges and plexiglass tabs are built to last. the audio interconnect cables seem ok.

i got some random audio technica gen1 t4p cartridge that has an orange grip with WHITE lettering stylus on it now. i think it might be a nude mount, but i'm not totally sure. i have a similar orange grip with BLACK lettering stylus and i know for sure that's a bonded .4 x .7 as i purchased it new on an slt96e.
 
I'd recommend not getting a T4p mount only tonearm, given the dwindling number of cartridges with current genuine stylus support problem.
 
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