• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Using Standard Alignment on a 1200

dumptruck

Lunatic Member
If this thread already exists in a decent form, I couldn't find it. Let's make a non-messy thread about using the Technics SL 1200(xxx) alignment (i.e., the one for the original tonearm, headshell, and white plastic "overhang gauge").

With the stock headshell, the overhang is 52mm and can be set using the overhang gauge or other means. But what about the alignment?

Technics' manual says to simply line up the cart body with the headshell. Obviously this might not be accurately lining up the actual stylus, but for this conversation lets assume does. If this is the goal (everything squared up with the cart body), then WHY does the overhang gauge have its little notch offset to one side?

That offset notch (and a few websites) seems to imply that you should rotate your cart in the headshell until the stylus lines up above the notch. Doing so will give you an alignment FAR from square with the cart.

So, forgetting what you think you should do, what do you think Technics actually intends people to do?
 
Register to hide this ad
Lunchtime bump. C'mon Technics people. This is still bugging me. To sum up the above: Why does the white plastic Technics "overhang gauge" include a significant tangential alignment offset to one side? Does yours even have it? I'm not talking subtle. Maybe I should take a photo?
 
Here's a photo. Obviously I don't have a great camera for close-ups. This is looking straight on to the gauge, with the cart mounted straight in the headshell:
 

Attachments

  • techguage2.jpg
    techguage2.jpg
    31 KB · Views: 176
The overhand is 52mm like you said and the cantilever should be parallel to the sides of the headshell for correct alignment.

I checked mine with an alignment protractor and it was spot on.

Not sure about the offset you are talking about as the plastic gauge that came with mine doesn't have that.
 
Not sure about the offset you are talking about as the plastic gauge that came with mine doesn't have that.

So if you were to emulate my photo, your stylus would be above the notch? Maybe I have a bunk gauge... I did try multiple headshells to make sure it wasn't a warped headshell.
 
Do you have a picture of the two items from the side ?
The cartridge does not look centered in your photo.
 
Yep.. the cart does not look like it is equal distances on each side of the tool.. looks like the tool is canted compared to cart.. or the other way around. You sure you have the cart aligned right in the headshell?

Lets see a picture from the side with the tool on it, and lets see a picture of the headshell upside down without the tool on it so we can gander at the cart/shell
 
Standard alignment with the supplied gauge gets you Stevenson alignment, which is designed for least inner groove distortion. Overhang is 52 mm. With a two point protractor set up for it, Baerwald is possible with this arm. Baerwald alignment is done for least distortion across the radius of the record. Both net excellent results. I just use the Technics gauge for quickest, fuss free setup.
 
Can't tell anything from that picture..

On the one with the headshell on the tool. Looks like the tool was canted, or the cart is.... that's why I was wanting to see some more pictures with the tool on the headshell from different angled, and then with the headshell flipped upside down so we could see the bottom side.
 
Like this?
That looks correct. The notch is only used for the horizontal distance between the end of the rubber washer and stylus tip. It is not used to determine the offset angle of the cartridge. The cartridge should be square with the headshell. Technics designed their geometry so that the offset angle of the cartridge coincides with the angle the headshell makes with the arm. The notch is off the center line because it is manufactured cheaply.
 
If this thread already exists in a decent form, I couldn't find it. Let's make a non-messy thread about using the Technics SL 1200(xxx) alignment (i.e., the one for the original tonearm, headshell, and white plastic "overhang gauge").

With the stock headshell, the overhang is 52mm and can be set using the overhang gauge or other means. But what about the alignment?

Technics' manual says to simply line up the cart body with the headshell. Obviously this might not be accurately lining up the actual stylus, but for this conversation lets assume does. If this is the goal (everything squared up with the cart body), then WHY does the overhang gauge have its little notch offset to one side?

That offset notch (and a few websites) seems to imply that you should rotate your cart in the headshell until the stylus lines up above the notch. Doing so will give you an alignment FAR from square with the cart.

So, forgetting what you think you should do, what do you think Technics actually intends people to do?

Don't worry if the gauge is slightly offset, mine is too. Just make sure the cartridge body is squarely mounted on the headshell and the stylus point sets right over the edge of the gauge. Hope that helps.
 
On the Technics gauge the stylus tip is supposed to be exactly over the end of the flat arm and right over the point of the triangle molded in the end of the flat arm. If all things were perfect the overhang should be right and the cartridge should be square in the head shell. Sometimes a cartridge will want to place itself a bit to one side of the headshell slots and it will resist attempts to center it. There is sometimes wiggle room with the mounting screws. If for whatever reason the cartridge is not comfortable in the exact center of the headshell this must be allowed for by squaring it as well as possible in the head shell.

It is also possible the gauge is warped. Either explain the problem to Technics and request another one or just buy one online. They are inexpensive and are very handy tools to have around if you collect 9-1/8 inch "S"-shaped tonearms.:thmbsp:
 
I just bought a new one from KAB. I also noticed that the notch in the end is not centered, so don't buy a new one thinking that it willl be different. I agree with the cheap manufacturing theory. I just squared it up in the headshell and adjusted for correct overhang-beautiful sound, much better than the hours of fooling with protractors and took about two minutes.
I hope your mileage does not vary.
Byron
 
The notch is off the center line because it is manufactured cheaply.

Now, here's an opportunity for somebody to make some $$. Custom machined alignment gauge from billet aluminium, with an extendable pin so it can be as close to the stylus as possible for most accurate overhang and...

...I'd better not see one online anytime soon or I'll be looking for compo.
 
I hope your mileage does not vary.
Nope, no sound problems here. Now if I can just get myself to stop messing with the VTA...

Hopefully this thread will help the next person mystified by their screwy overhang gauge feel at ease. Also yeah, where are those custom machined gauges with an extendable pin? Seems like the DJs would make that a big enough market. I'd go with stainless steel though.
 
At one time I had the same doubts about the accuracy of the Technics overhang gauge. I tried about 6 or 7 headshells and about half of the cartridges seemed offset like yours, but not all to the same degree. I got a machined rod that fit snugly in the hole of the gauge and measured the offset, ....there wasn't any! It seems like the mounting posts of the headshells weren't squared with the shell itself, they were twisted a bit. Two Technics shells were both off (although not as much as yours), a Technics look-a-like was off like yours, a CEC was spot on and an Empire branded SME type was way off! Check the level of the top of the headshell against the bottom of the gauge. There is a slight bit of wiggle room when you tighten the shell to the arm, so take that into account.

Fred Longworth made an interesting post (#6) in this thread:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=158992
 
Back
Top Bottom