Vintage Power Vs. New Power ?

[numerique]

Speakers are not classified by operating classes, that is suitable for amplifiers but I won't even try to go there since when you start reading about amplifier classes it gets very technical very fast...

I associated it with circuit design, but it seems folks are now using the term for their speakers as well- though the editor for the following article adds a disclaimer:

http://www.stereophile.com/content/2015-recommended-components-loudspeakers#hOjSZ1LLizm0egJ7.97

 

[JoeESP9]

Thanks for that Class A reference.

May prove to be very useful for researching / learning about current and past vintage speaker systems--- as well as viewing eye popping pricing on modern Class A speakers.

'

There is a very large difference between Class A speakers and a Class A amplifier. For speakers it's a subjective rating. For amplifiers it denotes a specific type of amplifier.

Stereophile has always used a letter grading system for their recommended components. It has nothing to do with amplifier types.

 

[numerique]

'

There is a very large difference between Class A speakers and a Class A amplifier. For speakers it's a subjective rating. For amplifiers it denotes a specific type of amplifier.

Stereophile has always used a letter grading system for their recommended components. It has nothing to do with amplifier types.

OK, thanks

 

[the skipper]

You're better off buying a receiver with enough power to drive those speakers.

Watts are cheap.

 

[JoeESP9]

You're better off buying a receiver with enough power to drive those speakers.

Watts are cheap.

What he said.

 

[whoaru99]

It would be quite helpful to have a description of the sound you're hearing when the problem occurs.

 

[holly01]

interesting thread, I also have the same question

 

[purple1]

It would be quite helpful to have a description of the sound you're hearing when the problem occurs.

interesting thread, I also have the same question

Agreed. It is hard for some to tell the difference between amp clipping and speakers being overdriven. My vote is the amp is clipping and it is making the bass sound bad.

 

[numerique]

You're better off buying a receiver with enough power to drive those speakers.

Watts are cheap.

I haven't hooked the speakers up to the MCS 3285 yet...............

As the MCS 3207 unit was purchased for use in a small area-( and my ears unaccustomed to loud noises anyway ) ,
I have no problem keeping the volume low enough to avoid distortion.

Hooking up different / better speakers might give me another reference on how well the amplifier performs- or not.

In any case, the thread was created more for the purpose of determining if there was really a practical difference between listed power of my "vintage" MCS 3207 and the amount of power it appears to actually send out to the speakers.

 

[numerique]

Agreed. It is hard for some to tell the difference between amp clipping and speakers being overdriven. My vote is the amp is clipping and it is making the bass sound bad.

It might be...................as I do not recall attempting to force an amplifier to work harder than designed prior to this time, I have no reference point.

I sorta presumed that sound volume would level off rather than increase in concert with distortion and more interested in determining just what seven watts per channel would do when hooked up to the speakers.

Perhaps that is not what actually happens in real life.

 

[numerique]

It would be quite helpful to have a description of the sound you're hearing when the problem occurs.

That is sorta difficult to describe.
In one way- it reminded me a little of the base vibration / noise generated on the road in cars near me when the audio amps are destroying the Sensory hair cells of the owner/ occupant (s) .

 

[whoaru99]

In any case, the thread was created more for the purpose of determining if there was really a practical difference between listed power of my "vintage" MCS 3207 and the amount of power it appears to actually send out to the speakers.

Did you ever get an answer?

If not, the answer is "No".

If it did exceed the spec it's not like going to be some huge wattage difference. For sake of discussion, even if it was 25% above spec, which I seriously doubt, it would still be only ~8-9 w.

 

[numerique]

Did you ever get an answer?

If not, the answer is "No".

If it did exceed the spec it's not like going to be some huge wattage difference. For sake of discussion, even if it was 25% above spec, which I seriously doubt, it would still be only ~8-9 w.

I do not believe anyone gave me a definitive answer as to whether or not there is a practical difference between "vintage power and "modern power' ; perhaps a few ideas for further research.

I will admit I did not expect the unit to drive the 50 watt speakers to distortion.

A speaker change may or may not give me a better reference.

Won't know until I actually find better quality speakers.

Almost had a set of two Bose 4.2 Series II speakers last week but GW put the speakers out one at a time and a re-seller grabbed the mate to mine- apparently just a few minutes before me.

 

[purple1]

I do not believe anyone gave me a definitive answer as to whether or not there is a practical difference between "vintage power and "modern power' ; perhaps a few ideas for further research.

That is because no definitive answer exists. It is all in the methods used to determine (power) watts output.

 

[whoaru99]

One thing I don't recall seeing about the speakers, and maybe I missed it, is if they're sealed or ported design.

If they are supposed to be sealed box but are leaking/not sealed, the woofers can more easily be pushed beyond their normal range of travel.

 

[numerique]

That is because no definitive answer exists. It is all in the methods used to determine (power) watts output.

OK.
That helps.
Nothing to do with engineering design philosophy.
Simply a matter of measurement standards.

 

[whoaru99]

That is because no definitive answer exists. It is all in the methods used to determine (power) watts output.

Indeed. You can get 2000 honest watts or more in a 10-20lb package these days. But, if that package is new in the box and priced at $49.99 it's probably the ILS (if lightning strikes) rating, not respectable-type watts.

 

[the skipper]

I do not believe anyone gave me a definitive answer as to whether or not there is a practical difference between "vintage power and "modern power' ; perhaps a few ideas for further research.

What do you meanr "vintage watts" and what "modern power". they are both the same. It's all in how they are reported.

Obviously, you didn't bother to read those links I posted in my first post. Heck, from your more recent questions, m not even sure you read my first post at all.

And, again, that "50 watts" you throw around is the MAXIMUM power the speaker it can handle. IT should provide more than adequate volume with 1/10 that.

just because a tire is rated for 149 mph doesn't mean it has to be driven at that speed to get the best out of it.

 

[purple1]

Indeed. You can get 2000 honest watts or more in a 10-20lb package these days. But, if that package is new in the box and priced at $49.99 it's probably the ILS (if lightning strikes) rating, not respectable-type watts.

Love that... ILS rating!

 

[numerique]

One thing I don't recall seeing about the speakers, and maybe I missed it, is if they're sealed or ported design.

If they are supposed to be sealed box but are leaking/not sealed, the woofers can more easily be pushed beyond their normal range of travel.

IIRC The RCA 40-5014 speakers do have a port in the back not seen in this image ( not a photo of my speakers)

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/vintage-radio-shack-realistic-speakers.155562/page-6

http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/4343

http://support.radioshack.com/support_audio/doc64/64941.pdf

Gonna hafta find another set of ( known good ) speakers to try out the receiver.

If results are similar, the amp is clipping.