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VPI Turntable Owners Thread

twiiii said:
I wish VPI would use a polished flat belt my self. Their belts that have the ridge where the two ends of the belt are joined is a real noise generator. Fortunately the platter is so heavy it dampens the most of the noise the seam makes. My question is why have any seam at all? I have a Thorens belt story posted else where if interested in noisy slippery belts.
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As for Belts without ridges, I don't recall the Black Tranquility Belts sold by LP Gear having any ridges from joining. They are made from a different material, Nitrile.

After I started using Black Tranquility Belts, I never went back.

www.lpgear.com

LP Gear Black Tranquility VPI HW-19 HW 19 HW19 turntable belt replacement

Check out the deal on LP Gear Black Tranquility VPI HW-19 HW 19 HW19 turntable belt replacement at LP Gear
www.lpgear.com www.lpgear.com
 
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I had fun earlier, going back some pages in this thread. Wow.

And got to again see some of the beauties that others here own-have owned.

Reckon I'll always be a huge fan of the HW-19.
 
You know the VPI Dragon is a Mark Levinson 515B in disguise, or maybe its the other way around. I know when I opened the motor box to bring the TT closer to 33.33 RPM the Circuit board card had VPI identification. I bought the Levinson 3.5 years ago during Covid so got a great price, and VPI has just released the Dragon for sale. My own problem is I had to align the motor box to get the perfect height for the platter grooves other wise the TT would throw belts. As it uses 3 when it throws a belt for start up that kicks off the other two. I want to try the belts with out seams. Thats my final complaint about the Dragon/515B. As you can see I placed the tt on a slab of marble and leveled that first making the drive box level then I leveled the TT. You have to unscrew the feet about a turn so they become free to absorb unwanted vibrations. But then I had to elevate for the box a bit to make sure the pulley grooves and platter grooves were at the same height. After that no issues of throwing belts. You will also notice Levinson threads the phono wires through the arm down through the bottom of the arm to a very nice connector box under the arm with a nice ground lug . The AC receptacle is on the motor box and no chance of hum getting to the tone arm when using MC cartridges. The turn table also use a very clever and anti skating device that is a bit different than VPI's. Makes for a much nicer looking set up. As I have a shocking personality I put shrink rap on the tone arm finger lift.

I also clear coated the edge of the platter because it oxidizes easily as well as easily showing finger prints. I know this table doesn't slow like most other VPI tables using a smaller motor and a single belt when touched by human hands. It starts up much faster, too. Yes the Dragon has the more advanced shock absorbing feet !!!

I use Dynavector 20 X 2 II HO output for both TT's. Whats the other one ? a 50+ years old Thorens TD 125 with Rabco SL-8E linear arm.
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Hmm, my VPI Classic has been sitting idle since ”upgrading” to the FatBoy gimbal tonearm because it just doesn’t perform or sound as well as it used to with the massive JMW uni tonearm installed. This tonearm radiates sound, unlike the old style which was dead quiet. I spent too much time and effort going back and forth with VPI, at times belittling me when one of the arms I purchased had a loose gimbal bearing. I was told that the mount was loose, like I didn’t know how to tighten a nut or something. As a retired engineer, I find that completely unacceptable, especially after I shared a video showing precisely where the motion was. Other than that, the deck is quite solid. A warning to all new VPI purchasers; check the tightness of the main platter bearing, and really tighten it before setting up your unit. My platter bearing was very loose when I received it. I still have the box. Considering selling it on eBay.
 

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Joseph G said:
Hmm, my VPI Classic has been sitting idle since ”upgrading” to the FatBoy gimbal tonearm because it just doesn’t perform or sound as well as it used to with the massive JMW uni tonearm installed. This tonearm radiates sound, unlike the old style which was dead quiet. I spent too much time and effort going back and forth with VPI, at times belittling me when one of the arms I purchased had a loose gimbal bearing. I was told that the mount was loose, like I didn’t know how to tighten a nut or something. As a retired engineer, I find that completely unacceptable, especially after I shared a video showing precisely where the motion was. Other than that, the deck is quite solid. A warning to all new VPI purchasers; check the tightness of the main platter bearing, and really tighten it before setting up your unit. My platter bearing was very loose when I received it. I still have the box. Considering selling it on eBay.
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Sorry to hear about all the trouble. I have a feeling VPI has lost a couple of customers because of issues like this. The constant tweaking and changing definitely turns off some people.
 
Anyone out there know anyone who makes a VPI VTA to SME tonearm mount? I am looking to chat with anybody out there who has modified the VTA assembly to fit any other tonearm. You know, that tonearm I purchased costs more than the deck did when I bought it. Also, I find it odd that they changed the hole and bolt size to a smaller diameter as to require a shim. plus on the new fatboy 3D Unipivot arm, the say the weights on the sides are for fine azimuth… loosening the weight only gives you a loose weight that doesn’t stay put because they choose to not use a spring. Who is engineering this junk anyway?
 
I’m sorry VPI, but someone has to say it. I think I am quite qualified, having tried every single VPI tonearm, except that crazy long thing on the new deck. The metal gimbal model is too short in height to work properly on the classic deck unless you move the VTA all the way up nearly past its effective range. Both the 3D arms resonate, playing music directly from the arm, plus that cheap finger lift is not only difficult to install, the mounting slots on the head are too wide. I can find a hundred things wrong with it. Other than looking nice, I don’t hear any advantage to spending nearly $5,000.00 for something that doesn’t work or sound as good as the original design.
 
Joseph G said:
Hmm, my VPI Classic has been sitting idle since ”upgrading” to the FatBoy gimbal tonearm because it just doesn’t perform or sound as well as it used to with the massive JMW uni tonearm installed. This tonearm radiates sound, unlike the old style which was dead quiet. I spent too much time and effort going back and forth with VPI, at times belittling me when one of the arms I purchased had a loose gimbal bearing. I was told that the mount was loose, like I didn’t know how to tighten a nut or something. As a retired engineer, I find that completely unacceptable, especially after I shared a video showing precisely where the motion was. Other than that, the deck is quite solid. A warning to all new VPI purchasers; check the tightness of the main platter bearing, and really tighten it before setting up your unit. My platter bearing was very loose when I received it. I still have the box. Considering selling it on eBay.
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Joseph G said:
I’m sorry VPI, but someone has to say it. I think I am quite qualified, having tried every single VPI tonearm, except that crazy long thing on the new deck. The metal gimbal model is too short in height to work properly on the classic deck unless you move the VTA all the way up nearly past its effective range. Both the 3D arms resonate, playing music directly from the arm, plus that cheap finger lift is not only difficult to install, the mounting slots on the head are too wide. I can find a hundred things wrong with it. Other than looking nice, I don’t hear any advantage to spending nearly $5,000.00 for something that doesn’t work or sound as good as the original design.
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Have you considered shipping the table to VPI and have them fix it? I'd think Mat or Harry would be happy to get you sorted out. Harry may be retired but still spends allot of time there. As much as you have invested in the table, $100-150 in shipping is a drop in the bucket. Even if you hate VPI and want nothing to do with the table and the company, it would at least help your resale value if you were to sell it and move on.
 
hello, yeah, no. Other than being informed that there is nothing wrong with the tonearm, I have had little progress with VPI. They just tell me it’s something that I am doing, either the mounting nut is loose , or their technician has looked at it and the bearing is fine. I don’t know, but on what planet is a moving gimbal okay? These people seem more concerned with profits, or maybe their big heads have exploded or something. I sure miss Harry, who actually gave a crap About quality. I would be happier with a new SME or Ortofon tonearm on this deck, but for now it sits unused. I would like to add that when a tonearm produces sound through it, it is a sign that the bearing is not working properly, any energy directed away from the cartridge like that also is not good for your records. I am happy with the 1200G. The arm is nearly silent, and the resonant frequency is between 9-11 Hertz With the Ortofon Cadenza Black. Another dumb engineering mistake that they made on the FatBoy Unipivot. That stupid cheap arm lift lever tilts the arm significantly, and the loose “azimuth weights” do not work effectively to correct the tilt. You would think that the weight on one side would be heavier to accommodate the lever, or springs installed to keep tension on the adjustments much like a carburetor has springs on the mixture to keep it adjusted. Maybe my deck is just too cheap to provide expert service or something. Whatever the case, I plan on put another cartridge on it and record the sound coming from it so I can post it. regards, JG
 
Joseph G said:
hello, yeah, no. Other than being informed that there is nothing wrong with the tonearm, I have had little progress with VPI. They just tell me it’s something that I am doing, either the mounting nut is loose , or their technician has looked at it and the bearing is fine. I don’t know, but on what planet is a moving gimbal okay? These people seem more concerned with profits, or maybe their big heads have exploded or something. I sure miss Harry, who actually gave a crap About quality. I would be happier with a new SME or Ortofon tonearm on this deck, but for now it sits unused. I would like to add that when a tonearm produces sound through it, it is a sign that the bearing is not working properly, any energy directed away from the cartridge like that also is not good for your records. I am happy with the 1200G. The arm is nearly silent, and the resonant frequency is between 9-11 Hertz With the Ortofon Cadenza Black. Another dumb engineering mistake that they made on the FatBoy Unipivot. That stupid cheap arm lift lever tilts the arm significantly, and the loose “azimuth weights” do not work effectively to correct the tilt. You would think that the weight on one side would be heavier to accommodate the lever, or springs installed to keep tension on the adjustments much like a carburetor has springs on the mixture to keep it adjusted. Maybe my deck is just too cheap to provide expert service or something. Whatever the case, I plan on put another cartridge on it and record the sound coming from it so I can post it. regards, JG
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I've had decent luck with my two VPI's, but their feet have always given me problems. The original Prime feet that Matthew said he modeled after Stillpoins were like cheap collapsable legs on a card table. I traded them for the HW40 versions. If this is what they are putting on their premium turntables, it's criminal. Especially if you have to extend one of them to level the deck.

But I love their unipivot 3D printed arms. They work with all of the cartridges that I own and I have three of them--two for my Prime and one for my Prime Scout. I also have a metal arm for my Prime Scout. None of the arms are completely silent, but I think it's more the base than the arm itself. Overall, they sound great and are easy to dial in.

As for the arm lifter issue, does the tonearm have a dropped downforce weight? That's what I use for coarse azimuth adjustments. Then I use the lateral weights for fine adjustments. I've used a light layer of vaseline on bridge screws on my guitars that won't stay in place. Wonder if it would work on the lateral azimuth weights? Or some other viscous fluid?


Phil Collins-1.jpg
 
hey, you stole my window blinds! I guess my point is this, VPI 3D FatBoy Unipivot. There should Never be anything that is loose, like those weights. It’s like common knowledge in my opinion. a couple of springs to lock the movement. Any movement from any part translates into noise and vibration being introduced into the audio. The weights are useless. I probably would have printed the finger lift lever with the arm, and designed for a near perfect azimuth with the extra mass on one side. Too much fiddling around trying to get something to work as advertised, and that costs an arm and a leg. I’ll take the massive unipivot any day over these 3D arms, both gimbal and uni. That arm sounded great but it’s a tough match for cartridge compliance. :)
 
Joseph G said:
hey, you stole my window blinds! I guess my point is this, VPI 3D FatBoy Unipivot. There should Never be anything that is loose, like those weights. It’s like common knowledge in my opinion. a couple of springs to lock the movement. Any movement from any part translates into noise and vibration being introduced into the audio. The weights are useless. I probably would have printed the finger lift lever with the arm, and designed for a near perfect azimuth with the extra mass on one side. Too much fiddling around trying to get something to work as advertised, and that costs an arm and a leg. I’ll take the massive unipivot any day over these 3D arms, both gimbal and uni. That arm sounded great but it’s a tough match for cartridge compliance. :)
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Absolutely. The tolerances are not what they should be on a few components. VPI did print an integrated arm lifter on the first few 3D tonearms but they discontinued it. There's an explanation somewhere on their website, but I cannot remember what it was. The non-Fatboy unipivot 3D arms don't really suffer as much from the side weight issue since the downforce counterweight can be adjusted for azimuth and locked in place. Also, the metal tonearm doesn't suffer from loose side weights. They are much tighter and will stay in place. So what's that all about?

After discontinuing the unipivot Prime in favor of the gimbal, old parts appear to have been resurrected and cobbled together. A 2016 style Prime with a 12" Unipivot tonearm? With the kind of tolerances that my Prime and Prime Scout have, a 12" arm would be very frustrating for me. I really like my two VPI's, but when I purchased them 5 and 7 years ago, they were crazy good bargains. The Prime Scout is set up for mono and the Grado mono cart sounds great on the metal arm.

This arm lifter works and it's relatively unobtrusive (2017 Prime Scout 9" metal tonearm). The side weights stay in place as well.

VPI metal arm-1.jpg

VPI metal arm-2.jpg
 
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I would have to say that VPI did do one thing right on the new arms. The counter weight is so much easier to dial in. I have a 4 second video showing the bearing play in the first gimbal model I purchased, but I don't know how to upload it. I am guessing that the attach feature does not allow video. I would love to share it. Regards, JG
 
Good day everyone, this is a short four second clip showing the loose bearing on the first gimbal tonearm I purchased from VPI. I went back and forth with them while they tried to convince me that the mounting nut was loose, or maybe I installed it improperly. However if you look closely, you can see that the outer ring or horizontal bearing is stationary, and it is the arm tube and vertical bearing are moving. I would suggest that everyone perform this test.
 
Joseph G said:
Good day everyone, this is a short four second clip showing the loose bearing on the first gimbal tonearm I purchased from VPI. I went back and forth with them while they tried to convince me that the mounting nut was loose, or maybe I installed it improperly. However if you look closely, you can see that the outer ring or horizontal bearing is stationary, and it is the arm tube and vertical bearing are moving. I would suggest that everyone perform this test.
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That wiggles way worse than a uni pivot does.
 
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