Wharfedale W70D spec sheet

[quiet]

I gave up on trying to keep a pair of them purple donuts working. Got me some soft domes. Very happy all the way around. Get it, around?

 

[tSLINGBLADEt]

I’m happy with the replacement tweeters.Tho I can’t help but wonder how the purple tweeters sound.

 

[quiet]

Good enough when they work. Way short of a good soft doom.

 

[Proengineer]

I have an original color brochure on the entire Wharfedale speaker line at this time, and a 1 sheet product spec sheet. I will post the one-sheet. There were 3 or 4 different models of the W70 series that were released over a period of time through mid to late 1960's (please correct me if I am wrong here). There was the 3 driver model (the one with the white speaker cloth, looks like W90 cosmetics) then 2 different 4 driver models (I have both), one that is front loaded and the more common rear loaded model W70D MKII. The enclosures are the same design, however they have a different exterior binding post design on the rear panels. The earlier model has plastic colored binding post screws while the later model has the metal type. and the pots are mounted vertical vs. horizontal on the later model. The crossover appears to be the same with two 50 ohm 8 watt pots and 4uf and 16uf 50 volt caps both models. The subs are the same I believe, but the drivers appear to be different (at least cosmetically) on both models. The front speaker cover/panels differ with the type of material used and structure of panel. The earler model has a sort of plastic straw type woven cover with the Wharfedale logo in the upper right hand corner is framed in solid wood and uses metal inserts to snap them in place (sturdy but very difficult to remove) and the "Polynesian" carved motif on the frame. The later model uses a woven fabric design mounted to press-board and the Wharfedale badge is on the lower right hand corner and the cover attaches via velcro pieces stapled to front panel. The badges are different too: early model is metal with a silkscreened "W" on the square badge, while the later model has the entire Wharfedale name in raised lettering and is plastic and rectangular. Both have a polynesian type pattern in the design and are each different. The earlier model is laminated on the frame of the speaker cover, while the later one is carved in the cabinet itself, both framing the inside of the front panel. The earlier model came with a much darker finish while the later model has the lighter finish most commonly seen. Both were veneered walnut cabs. I prefer the last model the W70D MKII both cosmetically and for the driver configuration being a rear loaded design. The front loaded design is very difficult and awkward to work on. The drivers are mounted on piece of particle board about 3/4 inch thick with wires trailing back to the crossovers which are burried under some speaker baffling material in 2 different locations (upper back panel & top of cabinet in back). If you are not careful, due to the weight of the panel with the drivers, if you slip while removing it you can tear the wires loose either from the drivers or the crossovers (there are 2). Also,The length of the wires is not long enough to allow you to work inside the cab, let alone move the panel to the side to rest. The later model has a removeable rear panel that is sand filled and the single crossover is mounted on the inside of this panel with the wires then running to the drivers directly. Still, not enough wire to give you some work room, but a much better design, easier to do soldering on the crossover, and less cumbersome and awkward to work with. I added some wire to both models which allows more room to work on if needed. When re-capping with the PIO caps I mounted them on the rear panel next to the crossover with some shallow srews so as not to leak the sand. The earlier model was a real bitch to do soldering to crossover. That's about it. Hope this helps.

Update and correction: The 2 models I described DO NOT have the same crossovers (I don't know how I missed that one), and the mids are different with the earlier one having a blue voice coil cover. The Mid/bass drivers are different as well with the cages being different. The earlier model is stamped steel with a round magnet and the later one (MKii) being a cast metal cage with square magnet. These 2 models do sound different from one another even with the slight mod's I made, prefering the Markii's. I recently upgraded the earlier model W70D's with the Markii's crossovers to get them to sound a bit closer to one another and it is a definate inprovement. One last note: the mid/bass drivers on these have a tendancy to fry. I have replaced the drivers in both twice. This is the reason I decided to run them together as I wanted to minimize pushing the speakers too much, as this I believe contributed to frying the drivers (I had read this in another forum), even ith a low wattage receiver as my Fisher 500C. These mids are a bitch to find in working condition and am considering upgrading them in the future in the event of them frying again (voice coils). Otherwise they are beautiful speakers that truly shine with the PIO cap and tweeter upgrades I mentioned earlier. I also had to replace the pots on these with Lpads, as the originals were fried (on the W70d's). The Lpads did not work well at all. I found a couple of originals pots (50 ohm, linear, don't know the wattage though)and replaced the Lpads, and the difference was quite noticable. The Lpads also required drilling new mounting holes on the xover board as they would not fit in the original spaces. Needless to say, stick with the original pots if you can, they are relatively easy to disassemble and clean.

 

[Proengineer]

Just scored a pair of W70D's at an estate sale for $40, and I have them paired with a Sansui 2000X, and they are blowing me away. I have had New large Advents for the last three years or so, but the W70's just sound so much more open and full bodied. Not sure if any work is needed, but from what everyone is saying a recap might be in order. Just have to learn how to do it.

These are the one's I have (also have the W70D earlier model) and they are wonderful speakers with upgrade of PIO caps. If you haven't tried the PIO's, you must. The difference will be astounding!

 

[Proengineer]

Good enough when they work. Way short of a good soft doom.

See my post on the Audax upgrades. They make a hellava improvement over the purple fried egg (IMHO).

 

[Proengineer]

So I have a question concerning matching a vintage McIntosh 4100 receiver to my W70D’s. This receiver is comparable to the Pioneer SX950 in wpc (75). Is this too much receiver? Your thoughts and suggestions are welcomed.

The W70D's have a maximum power rating of 40 watts. I'm running mine with a fisher 500C (35 watts per channel), so I think there should not be a problem. However, I mentioned in a previous thread that you don't want to push them at max volume, as this could lead to frying a driver, especially the mid/bass which was my experience.

 

[Bicyclist]

Just want to chime in. I have a set of w70ds and run them with an adcom 535. They sound excellent! I have a small room so no way i am over powering them.

 

[Darby Crash]

^^^
Those end tables as stands? They look great

 

[Bicyclist]

^^^
Those end tables as stands? They look great

Yes they are. The room is a mess but it was dark. Unfortunately the flash shows my shame. Going to build some record storage to go under the wharfedales eventually.

 

[dmac]

I have a pair of these (W70D MK II's) that I slightly modified after restoring the cabinets: I replaced the "Fried egg tweeters" with a pair of Audax TW0250A, 8 ohm tweets, upgraded the crossovers with russian Paper In Oil caps (same values), and added some dampening material to the front baffle where the speakers mount. They sound AWESOME! Amazing speakers for Rock, Jazz, and just about anything I play on them. I A/B'd them side by side with some Vienna Acoustic Bach Grands, Linn Kielidh's, and Kef's. Suffice to say, I sold the Vienna's, and using the others elsewhere. These are unknown gems that require little power to push them. I am running them through my Fisher 500C, just lovely speakers. Beasts to move, but once you find that sweet spot, pure enjoyment. I recently picked up another pair for free and doing the same upgrades. A friend is offering me $700 when done with these, but I doubt I will get rid of them. May just stack them and have a wall of Wharefie's!

could you elaborate on the damping material that you used on the front baffle? I assume it is attached on the inside of the cab. Wondering what material you used and how it impacted the sound. Thanks

 

[aje123]

I run my stock Rosedale’s W70D with a Pioneer SX-626, and they sound amazing.
But I am going to re cap with film caps.
Anyone know the sizes of caps in these?
Or I will find out when I open up. Thanks

 

[Kevdog]

I’ve not heard anyone talk about imaging from the W70D’s. I’m looking at some currently and not being mirror image driver configuration does concern me. Any relevance to my concern?

 

[JMac4095]

I know that this is an old post but I just received a pair of W70D Mark ll's that I'm refurbishing. The problem is that the crossovers that I removed are different than any picture I can find online that always show W70D crossovers not W70D Mark ll crossovers.

1st picture is of the crossover I removed from my W70D Mark ll's.

2nd picture is a crossover for a W70D that I purchased off of a auction site for spare parts (could not find any Mark ll's).

My question is are the crossovers wired correctly in my Mark ll's or should it be wired like the W70D crossover l got at auction site?

Any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated. Mods if my reply to this post is somehow incorrect please feel free to delete.

 

[Bicyclist]

I'm no help here except to say I would raise the crossover point on the tweeters because they are fragile. Other than that, those are really fun speakers.