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Do a search for a thread called "Marantz Wooden Case Feet." The thread contains a post by me (hellhound94) that'll tell you everything you ever wanted to know about the subject at hand.
I do not know the exact size but I do know it is metric. I have purchased longer ones from the harware store, and cut them down. Be careful to not leave them too long as they may interfere with some of the internals when you tighten them down.
Thanks, but i have all of the feet, i am just trying to figure out what thread the screws are so that i can replace the stock hard (worthless) feet with some nice threaded cones. And if i could find out the thread size and get a match i could thread em right in and be able to perfectly level the unit.
forget the thread pitch, but it's the only M4 available at home depot or lowe's. there are so few of them available in stainless that I ended up having to buy some overly long ones and then cut them with a dremel to the right length.
If you have to cut them, make sure you bevel the end or you'll never get it started in the hole.
Also, if they're stainless, they'll make their own threads in your receiver if you get 'em crossthreaded.
Not good.
Sometimes even the old "put a nut on, cut the bolt, then take the nut off" trick doesn't work too well.
Personally, I use a belt sander, but not everbody has one sitting around.
You could probably chuck up the bolt in a drill and use a file on it. (hillbilly lathe )
The thread size for my 18 and 19 is 8-32. Make sure you do not buy too long of a screw that will penetrate too far into the chassis and touch something it shouldn't.
The thread size for my 18 and 19 is 8-32. Make sure you do not buy too long of a screw that will penetrate too far into the chassis and touch something it shouldn't.
Don't trust that thread conversion table. You will ruin the USA threads in a model 18 or 19 when you force in metric M4 screws and vice versa.
The foot threads on Japanese made Marantz are usually M4 standard. On some receivers, like 2325 or 2330B the M4 screw must not be too long, because it can crack the headphone or dubbing socket right behind the faceplate.