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Where to find dial pointer for Pioneer SX-636?

pdxtim

pdxtim

Well-Known Member
Despite having read the warnings to be careful when removing tuner dial faceplate I managed to break the clear plastic tuner pointer on my SX-636 while replacing the 5 lamps that illuminate tuner dial. Does anyone know where I might find a replacement? From what I understand a pointer from the SX-737, QX-747a, QX-949 and QX-949a will work. I've searched and can't find anything. Thanks in advance for any help.
 
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good luck!

i've been searching for a dial pointer for my sx1010 for about 6 months.

i have found that i could completely build another sx1010 with used parts from ebay...except for that pointer!

luckily i have mine. it had been broken and glued by a previous owner...then i touched it and it broke. when i glued it back together it went together crooked.

on the plus side, when i aligned the tuner, i calibrated the dial so that the illuminated tip shows the exact freq, its just not straight.:dunno:

i can live with it but one day, i do plan to sell it so i'd like it right.

i thought about cutting it at the glue joint and regluing it. it will make it a touch shorter and won't track the center of the dial.

just have to decide which is the worse of 2 evils
 
You can probably get it hot and tweak it if you have some kind of precise heat source like an SMD station. Then you can slide it down the string to get it lined up again.
 
tarior said:
You can probably get it hot and tweak it if you have some kind of precise heat source like an SMD station. Then you can slide it down the string to get it lined up again.
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i still have not gone with a hot air system. i have hot tweezers that work ok but would not work for this.

kind of shocked how hard it is to find pointers.
 
A guy on the Matantz forum a few years back was casting them out of clear resin. After multiple prototypes he got them to turn out pretty nice.
 
tarior said:
Glue it back together. Loctite 401.
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I'm considering that. I'm just worried about getting it lined up correctly, since super glue type stuff dries so quickly, and also if the glue will allow light to penetrate easily. Thanks for the help though!
 
pdxtim said:
I'm considering that. I'm just worried about getting it lined up correctly, since super glue type stuff dries so quickly, and also if the glue will allow light to penetrate easily. Thanks for the help though!
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I've repaired a few over the years. It works very well. You have to hold it tight together for about 20-30 seconds.
 
Bill S said:
A guy on the Matantz forum a few years back was casting them out of clear resin. After multiple prototypes he got them to turn out pretty nice.
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There are a couple of sellers on ebay offering reproduction dial pointers for Marantz.
There is also one from a Pioneer SX-440(?) that looks like it would work in a SX-636.
 
tarior said:
I've repaired a few over the years. It works very well. You have to hold it tight together for about 20-30 seconds.
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So I'm guessing you just hold the broken pointer in place with your fingers till the glue dries??? I don't trust myself to eyeball it correctly. I think I might put the unit on its back with faceplate oriented up toward ceiling and put a small thin piece of wood or plastic behind the broken pointer, between the pointer and the tuner faceplate, to hold it in correct position front to back. after glue is applied. On the piece of plastic/wood I'll have drawn some parallel lines which will allow me to align it side to side. I know I may be overthinking this but if it's crooked it'll bug me.
 
pdxtim said:
So I'm guessing you just hold the broken pointer in place with your fingers till the glue dries??? I don't trust myself to eyeball it correctly. I think I might put the unit on its back with faceplate oriented up toward ceiling and put a small thin piece of wood or plastic behind the broken pointer, between the pointer and the tuner faceplate, to hold it in correct position front to back. after glue is applied. On the piece of plastic/wood I'll have drawn some parallel lines which will allow me to align it side to side. I know I may be overthinking this but if it's crooked it'll bug me.
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Yup. Hold it together until it sets, then leave it sit somewhere overnight for full cure. If you want a really quick bond, find a methylene chloride or MEK based liquid plastic model cement. It's not instant, but it's fast. Either one will have you wishing it would hurry up while you hold it.
 
Scott75s1974 said:
I would use an acrylic solvent adhesive like Scigrip. It allows some set up time and is more permanent than superglue types.
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Hmm, looks like that might work. I did a search and there's a bunch of different SciGrip products. Which would you recommend? I'm thinking Weld On/SciGrip #16 might work???Thanks for the help!
 
I use #16, but only because that's what was available. I haven't used it on this particular problem, but it works very well for acrylic type plastic repairs. I'm guessing the different #'s are just different ratios of MEK and acrylic. Nice thing with these types of glue, is that if they don't work on a given plastic, they just flake off. (At least that's been my experience.)
 
tarior said:
Yup. Hold it together until it sets, then leave it sit somewhere overnight for full cure. If you want a really quick bond, find a methylene chloride or MEK based liquid plastic model cement. It's not instant, but it's fast. Either one will have you wishing it would hurry up while you hold it.
Click to expand...
Your suggestion worked, thanks again! (Although if a pointer turns up on ebay or elsewhere I'll probably get it).

IMG_2415.JPG
 
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