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Which treatment (Restore-A-Finish or Feed N Wax) for this veneer?

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Gang-Twanger

Gang-Twanger

Resident Wharfedaliophool
Hey there, freaky fools...

I've been wondering lately about my W90's and whether or not I'm on the right road in terms of veneer revitalization (They have a walnut veneer), so I thought I'd post the question to you folks out there (Hey, folks... :) ). So far, I've simply cleaned them a bit and added a few rounds of Howard's Feed N Wax, and they do look better than they did when I first got them. However, I know they can be a lot better, and I get the feeling that they may need a round of Restore-A-Finish and THEN the F&W. I finally have them sounding right, so now I'd like to get them LOOKING right as well. Anyway, what are your thoughts on this?

The light isn't fantastic in here, so the pic's a bit on the blurry side and isn't as faded as it looks, but it's not great either (I bought a new light, but I have to exchange it because one of the pieces is broken), but hopefully this will give you SOME idea of what they look like.
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When restoring my Speakerlab 7's I went with C-atle-79bay's recommendation and used OSMO Hardwax-oil clear semi-gloss. I'm very very happy with the results. It was very easy to apply, not particularly stinky, and my cabs look better than ever. Using 2 coats also helped fill in some of the deeper scratches that I couldn't completely sand out. Great stuff.

Cheers,
James
 
Bratwurst7s said:
When restoring my Speakerlab 7's I went with C-atle-79bay's recommendation and used OSMO Hardwax-oil clear semi-gloss. I'm very very happy with the results. It was very easy to apply, not particularly stinky, and my cabs look better than ever. Using 2 coats also helped fill in some of the deeper scratches that I couldn't completely sand out. Great stuff.

Cheers,
James
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Well, here's the thing (Thanks by the way): I already have both Howard's types here at home right now, so if I can stick with one or both of these, it would save me the trouble of searching out/buying something else. I'm gonna' check out that OSMO Hardwax stuff though.
 
I've always used both of the Howard's products together on faded, dried out and/or water stained cabinets.
 
Actually the best thing you can use is Kiwi shoe polish, the solid in the tin. Pick the color tha matches apply it with a cloth or even a brush, and buff it off with a shoe brush I have done this since the early 1970's it works great.
 
After restoring MANY pairs of vintage speakers, my routine for cabinets with good veneer is:

Clean with Formby's Furniture Cleaner, using "0" or "00" steel wool. Note - remove the grills and seal the front panel of your speakers with plastic or newspaper first (tape ALL edges), and also put some painter's tape over the terminal plate/cup. Steel wool debris will be attracted to your speaker magnets, and you definitely don't want even one shred of it working its way into the voice coils. Do this work away from other audio equipment. Formby's cleaner removes old dirt and wax, and a very small bit of the original finish...which then gets reblended as you clean with the steel wool, hiding any small nicks or scrapes. After cleaning with steel wool, wipe down with a rag and Formby's...you will be amazed.

Next, put on a coat of Howards RestoreAFinish. Just follow the directions. I use a ventilator when doing this step in my workshop....the chemicals are potent! Follow the directions carefully, especially as regards wiping them dry a few minutes after application.

Finally, after drying thoroughly (an hour or two), apply FeedNWax. Let it sit for 30-45 minutes, then buff with a clean towel.

My only other comment is that when there is damage to the veneer, I do the repair work first (including careful sanding of any wood putty/wood repair materials). Then, depending upon the extent of the repairs, I either a) use the above process, which will blend small repairs fairly well, b) strip the entire cabinet, restain and finish with tung oil if the repairs are larger or more numerous, or c) sand the entire cabinet, restain and finish with tung oil....sanding is reserved for cabinets that required extensive repair work, as it is tricky to do without cutting through the veneer (especially along the edges, where it's thinner).
 
Hi Gang-Twanger,

I understand, and you're welcome. Unfortunately I have no experience with Howard's and can't contribute there. The OSMO isn't cheap, I think that I paid about €25 or so for a 700ml can, but it goes a long way. I only used a small amount of the can for 2 coats, and here comes the downside. My wife realized that it looks great, that there was a lot of it leftover after I was done, and that we have an apartment full of oiled wood furniture.

There should be 375ml cans available also, I just couldn't find any here in Munich.

James
 
Restor A Finish if you need to fill in some scratches or to darken some light spots where the finish has worn through, Feed N Wax to try to add some moisture.

As long as the Restor is a close match to the factory finish, I'd use it first.

I know it's not a perfect solution and not terribly long term, but it's absolutely amazing what an hour of work can yield with those two products!
 
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A light sanding and Watco's Danish neutral oil. The result is a beautiful satin finish.

I've done this on all my wood veneer speakers and they look gorgeous.
Simple and cheap.
 
Will it do any good putting the Restore-A-Finish on top of several layers of Feed N Wax?
Always thought Restore-A-Finsh should go on first.
 
Ordinarily the Restore-a-Finish is used before Feed-n-Wax. But if you use it afterwards, I'd recommend using 0000-grade steel wool to apply it (it will cut the wax and clean the wood surface as well as smooth the surface). Follow up with the Feed-n-Wax to finish the job. Follow the directions on both. Easy to do - great results.
 
TomInTacoma said:
Ordinarily the Restore-a-Finish is used before Feed-n-Wax. But if you use it afterwards, I'd recommend using 0000-grade steel wool to apply it (it will cut the wax and clean the wood surface as well as smooth the surface). Follow up with the Feed-n-Wax to finish the job. Follow the directions on both. Easy to do - great results.
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Yeah, I figured that, but at first I was thinking the F&W would be enough (and I know I'm gonna' have to clean off the layers of F&W, sadly).

I have some Murphy's oil soap here if I should use that to clean and THEN hit 'em with the R-A-F. Or should I just go hard with the R_A_F and stick with that. I'll have to pick a really-warm day where I can open the door and run a fan. These are 125lbs each.

Basically I just want to see the grain pattern come out a lot more the way I see on so many other speakers here on AK. I enjoy the sound of these speakers so-much, so it's only fair I should get them LOOKING just right as well. Just not much of a woodworker, and I thought the F&W by itself (with a soap & water pre-clean) would be enough. It wasn't.
Thanks.
 
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I think you may be over-estimating what's needed here. Just go with the R-A-F and some 0000-steel wool and go lightly. The wax will come up quickly as you go over it back and forth with the grain.
 
Yes the R. A. F. is basically just a strong tinted solvent used as a cleaner to remove wax buildup that is impregnated with dirt, after which a new coat of wax (F. A. W.) is applied. Water could be counterproductive if your goal is to improve the appearance.

Merry Christmas,

Rob
 
If the wood is in decent shape, just dry, I like to use Howards Orange Oil. Orange oil cleans and shines in one step and smells nice.
 
I don't think of Restor-A-Finish or Feed'N'Wax as a true "finish." RAF is more like a cleaner/stain/concealer (use under a finish), and wax is just a light protective coating (use over a finish). Using just RAF and wax is sort of missing the middle step, which is the finish itself.

I like to use an old-fashioned oil finish (Watco) on vintage speakers, but you can also use a wipe-on polyurethane for a more long-lasting, durable finish.
 
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