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Which Vintage Integrated Amps Have A + B = PARALLEL CONNECTION?

michaelm101

michaelm101

Active Member
I have a pair of 1980s GNP speakers that require the satellites to be connected to "A", and the (passive) woofer box (2 separate L & R woofers) to be connected to "B."

I've discovered here on AK, that my old Kennys are A+B = SERIES, so I currently have an old Kenny running the satellites, and another Kenny running the passive woofer.
HOWEVER, it's too much energy draw and work adjusting the source levels for everyday listening.

Does anyone know which vintage SS amps, OR manufacturers have A+B wired in PARALLEL?
I do know that my old, not working NAD is wired like this...

Thanks very much for your thoughts!
 
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You don't really need/require using A+B unless the ability to turn off the sub is important to you.

If not, then simply connect the sub and speaker wires in parallel to the A speaker terminals.
 
whoaru99 said:
You don't really need/require using A+B unless the ability to turn off the sub is important to you.

If not, then simply connect the sub and speaker wires in parallel to the A speaker terminals.
Click to expand...
Just as an FYI, this speaker system uses a 1) separate PASSIVE woofer (not a sub) cabinet that contains TWO 8" drivers, with separate "R" and "L" connections, and 2) a pair of MID & TWEETER "satellite" speakers. The system was designed before the concept of "subwoofer" and "satellites" came to be...
 
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Only if it has speaker level inputs AND the receiver A+B is parallel.

Again though, A+B is only a convenience to allow disabling the sub, not necessary for it to work. They can both be connected to A only and will work the same, except for the switching.
 
whoaru99 said:
Only if it has speaker level inputs AND the receiver A+B is parallel.

Again though, A+B is only a convenience to allow disabling the sub, not necessary for it to work. They can both be connected to A only and will work the same, except for the switching.
Click to expand...
Thx. The sub has speaker Level ins and outs, but the Kenwood amp is A + B = SERIAL, so no dice :-(
 
michaelm101 said:
Thx. The sub has speaker Level ins and outs, but the Kenwood amp is A + B = SERIAL, so no dice :-(
Click to expand...
Hook the "A" speaker output to the speaker level in on the sub, then hook the speaker level out from the sub to the satellites.
 
tarior said:
Hook the "A" speaker output to the speaker level in on the sub, then hook the speaker level out from the sub to the satellites.
Click to expand...
Thx! So, "A" will be feeding the active SUB input, which then feeds the amp power to the satellites. Do I still connect the passive woofer box (that contains two entirely separate woofers & L & R connectors) to the same "A" output?
 
michaelm101 said:
Thx. The sub has speaker Level ins and outs, but the Kenwood amp is A + B = SERIAL, so no dice :-(
Click to expand...

For like the 3rd time, you can connect both to A.

That said, now it seems like you have a couple different things going on.

Can you clarify what all subs and speakers/satellites you intend to connect?
 
whoaru99 said:
For like the 3rd time, you can connect both to A.

That said, now it seems like you have a couple different things going on.

Can you clarify what all subs and speakers/satellites you intend to connect?
Click to expand...
One pair "satellite" speakers
One pair woofers (in single cabinet)
One active subwoofer (with onboard sp level ins & outs)
 

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Whats with the wiring on the Polk sub?

I see what looks like speaker wires on right speaker terminals, a couple RCA cables on the bottom row right(?) speaker terminals, and the pair of RCAs on the line level inputs?
 
whoaru99 said:
Whats with the wiring on the Polk sub?

I see what looks like speaker wires on right speaker terminals, a couple RCA cables on the bottom row right(?) speaker terminals, and the pair of RCAs on the line level inputs?
Click to expand...
Please disregard the wiring--That sub's currently connected to a HT amp and it's also split (R) for use with another separate audio amp... There is also another sub in the room that has the split left input connection.
 
If the amp has a printed warning to only use 8-ohm speakers when on A + B, that is nearly certain to be a parallel connection.
 
Mcintosh MA 6100 and 6200. They are good down to two ohms. So that three pair of 8ohm, or two pair 4 ohm. The amps are direct coupled but the 5200 has Power Guard to help protect your ears and speakers. Later Mcintosh you will have to read the specs on the Mcintosh Compendium page under integrated amps. a few have autoformers, but most are direct coupled. Yamaha later 1000 and 2000 series were good down to below 4 ohms. Better Sansui were also. Tandberg and Elite Pioneer were always good to just below 4 ohms. ES Sony was too. In fact most better units in the middle 70's and later would good down to 4 ohms. While a few were good down to two ohms. Most of todays better units can handle 2 ohms. Thats because a low of 8 ohm speakers dip below 4 ohms . So playing two of them take the amp very close or just below 3 ohms. Paneled speakers can some times dip very low, also.
 
Old amps I've used which parallel A+B via the speaker selector:

Accuphase E-202
Luxman R-1070 receiver
Akai AM-2800
Kenwood KA-8100
 
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