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Why do so many people modify Klipsch?

Well he tells people and he doesn't, lets face it, he makes $ when he sells the more expensive networks. I have seen his comments in print in various places. I think if you mentioned the power you have he automatically might make an assumption. Or he if you mentioned your room size and volume level he made an assumption from that. Whether its correct I guess is to be determined by you!

I know what I like and I have heard LaScala's with ES networks and LaScala's with DIY Universals and hands down the Universals or ALK jr's are for low power. They have the body for the levels between 70-90db for me.

I spent some time on his site, he has made some changes since I have last been to it, wow!

110db at my chair would be very loud for me, that would be near a 120 db at the speakers approaching their upper limits which with the ALK's would likely be higher than any stock Klipsch network could obtain.

I have been able to get 100db plus from my 10 watt SET amplifiers of course they are designed to have a lot of reach or what I like to call burst power capacity, http://www.stereophile.com/features/357/
Still one can improve the classical amounts of burst power as well.


But for many of us that are in the 70-95 range I don't feel an overbearing need for ES in fact I don't think I could live with its leanness that I hear at 80-90db range but that's me!

So I guess its all about give and take but most of all what you can live with or without.

SET12

Interesting.

When you say you can get 100 dB (That level of a riveting machine) out of your 10W amps, it sounds like you are pushing them to their limits. I would think, since they are at their limits, you would consider that to be "loud". So what I read now is that it is about the power, not the listening level? Yet I read your post about the 1.6W amps you designed for your friend that is using ES networks throughout. You said it was so he could hear every detail. But certainly, he wouldn't be approaching anywhere near 100 dB if that is where you 10W is peaking? Do you think he has wasted his money?

I can barely stand to listen to it at 95 dB, if that is not loud to you.... well I don't want to be insulting, but gee whiz, you might want to get the hearing checked. This site refers to "very loud music" as 95dB http://www.soundinstitute.com/article_detail.cfm/ID/128. Background music is about 60dB. Yamaha, whom I would think has done the research on this, adjusts their YPAO levels to 80dB as the reference for movies. I think it is because that is a pretty common level for most. It is about the same volume as when I go to a theater. You say 110dB would be loud for you? Higher than what your amp can drive them to? That is the same as thunder. I can't imagine anyone listening to music at that level. Are you suggesting that unless people listen to music at the level of thunder, they should go with the simpler network you have chosen?

I guess I will just have to keep my opinion on this, knowing yours is different. I haven't read anything that really supports what you say other than opinion and claim of what you can hear and others may not be able to. Opinion of sound quality always reminds me of the story of the emperors new clothes. But what I do know is electronic test equipment can measure things that are undetectable by the ear, I don't care who you are. ALK does extensive testing of his networks using some pretty quality gear. His ES networks try to approach the same theoretical flatness of an active crossover using a passive design. So it sounds like what you are saying is that, similarly, an active crossover would only be better at a higher volume as well. It just doesn't make sense to me.

I don't have the scientific reasoning behind this, but to me, all these folded horn designs sound better at 70+db. Regardless of the network. I'm thinking it has something to do with using the relatively large woofer as the driver for the horn. It takes more power than the mid and tweeter to drive it. And until you give it enough (which equates to about 70dB) it doesn't have enough to really drive it with the same punch. But 70dB is about the minimum I listen at anyway.

Our ears are just different. I think sometimes people want to hear things (including me) that justify their purchases. Or inversely, justify not spending. With every upgrade, is it better? Or is it just different? What is better,... more accurate? Is better something that compensates for one's own hearing loss? Provides more artificial bass? Accurate... like the ES networks?

When you say most of us in the 70-95 range, what you are saying is 99% of the readers here. Which translates to me that you are saying that unless one is deaf (or wanting to be) and can't appreciate music anyway, the ES networks are a bad choice.

The Iron cores ALK uses sound lean and wimpy? From what I know of AL, if there was a reason to move to another inductor, he would have already done so. These are not cheap crossovers and his potential clients would certainly not quibble to pay the difference if he could justify it. Maybe these North Creek inductors do have a different sound... but are they significantly better that you can describe Al's as lean and wimpy?

I 100% disagree with your statement that he leads one to more expensive designs to make money. He makes very little on these. I priced the parts and its only ~$50 more than my building it myself. If that. He has the mounting and assembly down to a science so that $50 it is worth it for me since he also includes individual tests. From his perspective, he might make another $50 on top of what I can build them for since he orders in quantity. So all in all, it costs me $50 more than I can do it for, even if I could duplicate his work, and he might make $100 in total. That's not a huge profit for him considering the time he spends, the research he does and the quality of the product. I have spoken with him on several occasions and not once did he try to push me into buying a particular network. In fact, if anything he discouraged it. He recommended replacing the horns before anything else. And when I was certain I wanted the crossovers he still tried to deter me by letting me know he does this part time and there might be a 2 month wait to get them. Once he realized I was determined he helped me pick the best for my needs. He was very patient and answered anything I asked. We discussed this in great detail before finalizing the payment. He hasn't told me his but I believe he has his simpler universal design for those budget minded folks that just want to upgrade the 30 old year design and stay close to the original sound (good or bad). He has proof through his testing the ES designs are more accurate. That's hard to argue. Its more accurate but sounds worse? Saying he does this for the $ is almost slanderous, IMO. Just like you, and your amps, this is his passion and he does have a reputation that is highly regarded by others.

Having said that, I do want to commend you on the amps. They are truly beautiful and the knowledge you have of these shows you have a passion for it.
 
Interesting.

You bet!

Rather than quoting everything you wrote I try and address you paragraph by paragraph.

Yes I have 10 watt amplifiers, but Forte's are only rated at 98db/watt John's LaScala's are rated 105db/watt that's a big difference.

Check this out :yes: http://myhometheater.homestead.com/splcalculator.html

So let's take a look and BTW I have owned several Radio Shack sound level meters and have been using them over the course of 40yrs. So I know a little about SPL levels. When I ran across this site I thought perfect! Its really very close to the numbers I get its pretty cool IMO.

The site wants RMS power. Tubes for the most part have are rated peak power. So RMS conversion results in about 1/2 peak power.

My amplifiers are rated at 10 watts peak so they are really 5 watts RMS. Its hard for some people to imagine 5 watts doing much of anything, but that's hardly the case. Think watt for watt when doing listening comparisons.

If you read this http://www.stereophile.com/features/357/

You'd see tubes typically have more head room in contrast to SS if it has any at all. I like to refer to it as burst power which typically can run about 2.5 times for a tube PP amplifier and an astounding 5 times more from a very good SET amplifier. Not all tube amps are equal by any-means and IMO its harder to build a great SET then a PP that has guts. But it can be done.

Plugging in the #'s for my amp for 5 watts RMS 10ft away speakers near a wall the calculator comes up with a capacity of 101db peak at my chair.

If burst power comes into play, pushing the wattage to say a conservative 15 watts that peak now becomes 106db

Pushing to some observed levels from the articles amps to 25 watts and that number becomes 108db at my chair.

The article points out that he observed levels from his 10 watt SET amplifier that would take a 50 watt SS amp to produce, if that's the case it then we are looking at 111db at my chair.

With the addition of Klipsch Titanium diaphragm's I'm now using, they have allowed my amplifiers new levels to peak at. I was formerly using the new Crites but the Crites is no match IMO to the performance of the Titanium. I use to think I was hearing my amplifiers clip but in reality it was the Crites breaking up. the Titanium is just absolutely phenomenal in its ability to follow a signal, and for that matter the recovery after an amplifier clips instead of hanging in the clip. It takes some very high SPL's to audibly hear my amplifiers clip. To test clipping I like to use the Titanic Sound Track because of the momentary crescendo's allow one to hear break up of anything prety easily.

The 1.6 watts you refer to is actually 1.8 watts, John's amp is 7.45db less then my own. But John's LaScala's are 7db more efficient then my Fortes.

So guess what? He can play that 1.8 watt amplifier at the same levels that I can play my Fortes with 10 watts.

Lets take a look as though he had his set up in my listening room.

105 db efficiency, .9 watts RMS 10 feet away, 2 speakers near wall. Comes out to be 101db at my chair, same 101db for the Forte's with 5 watts RMS.

No wonder why he says you wouldn't know you were listening to a 1 watt anything. BTW he has commented that he has heard no audible clipping yet, if his amplifiers are anything like mine and I believe his are better, he'd have to play at some very loud levels to hear this as I have to.

Very interesting indeed!

Do I think he wasted his money? let me give you one of his quotes.

Just in case I hadn't made it perfectly clear...I really LOVE the BOS 45. It sounds so very good I cannot believe it sometimes that it is right here in my living room.

Thanks again Dan,

John



No 95 peak db isn't that loud to me as average levels would be in the mid to upper 80's. As for my hearing its quite excellent. At my former job my hearing was probably checked 15 yrs in a row and I have very low losses from age. I also hear a half octave higher then my best friend and he has never worked in an industrial environment. I worked in a 90db environment for many yrs most of which was with hearing protection but even still the 90db just not bothersome mostly low frequency stuff.

One area that a few people have run across for hearing loss is driving with your cars driver side window down at Hwy speeds. One stereophile reviewer found he had a substantial loss in his left ear. The only thing he could attribute to it was driving. I never drive at Hwy speeds with my drivers window down. I will open the passengers before mine.

Gee 95db Peak for LaScala's can be produced from a mere 250 milliwatts or .25 watts.

Have you ever stuck a meter across your speaker terminals? Put a sound meter on Peak and measure and you will see average levels well below .25 watts. That's (voltage squared)/load(ohm's)

For me I prefer tubes with horn's, SS just bores me and one has to spend good money to get warmth from SS but that's not all. Its the harmonics that are liked from tubes especially in combination with horns. But even still a SS can come across as harsh on Klipsch to many people but of course there are many people that use SS especially Macintosh gear which does sound typically very good with Klipsch. It doesn't surprise me that 95db would is all you can handle. It probably would be for me to.

Yep opinions are fine and everyone has a right to one.

I work in the electronics field and I do have electronics training, I work with Engineers everyday and I know very well how they like to think. If I thought like them then I would of never come up with an amplifier like the BOS45 as its not built from classical principles, Nor would of I have built my crossovers.

I have great respect for ALK and his science and without his work I would of never of been inspired to pursue my networks. As my buddies DIY Universal's were so good I went from having a hard time listening to them to sitting for hrs tapping my foot.

But at the same time I fall between measurements and listening with my ears. And if I have to pick or choose, I choose my ears. Just because it measures well doesn't mean it sounds well. And just because it measures bad doesn't mean it necessarily sounds bad.

As to the North Creek they are very significant. Even amongst other non iron cores. Read this, I have about the same opinion. http://www.audioasylum.com/forums/hug/messages/14/147282.html

Largely, the expense of building ALK networks depends on parts quality but I found I could build his $550 Universals for near $300. I don't consider his networks expensive. But I will tell you this, it is possible to spend $10,000 on parts for the Universal. Budget! I think of in terms of average subjective value parts.

Accuracy comes in many forms, measurements are but one.

Slanderous! I don't think so, but I do think he's overly passionate about his ES networks IMO. ALK does have passion, I enjoy his very much. ALK is not without his critics though. Glad you have enjoyed him as I have.

I'd like to leave a final story from Dr. Bruce Edgar which is just the opposite of the ES principle. http://www.positive-feedback.com/Issue4/edgarinterview.htm

Dave: You've also discovered that 6 dB per octave crossovers seem to work the best. I know that one of the ways you found that out was with a focus group, using those of us in the Audiophile Club at The Aerospace Corporation as guinea pigs in blind experiments, when we didn't know we were being used. (Laughter)

Bruce: Well, I didn't consciously decide to do it that way. I started out using 6 dB crossovers because they were just the simplest to do, and they seemed to work. Klipsch had said in his early experiments that he had started with second-order crossovers during World War II. As his capacitors went bad and he couldn't get any new ones, he changed his crossover to a first order and found out they sounded better, so I started off with 6 dB crossovers. In the mid 80s, Bob Bullock, who is one of the editors of Speaker Builder, came up with a number of articles showing how to design all different order crossovers, and so I decided to try them. I built up some second-order crossovers and put them into the club system. I didn't hear a whole lot of comments about it, but when I switched back to first-order crossovers, everybody came up after the demo in the club meeting and said how good the system sounded. That told me right away that first-order crossovers sound better on horns.



Thanks about the amps, I was just the circuit designer, John chose his own layout, so the art is his, but the sound is much about the sheer design.

Cheers

SET12
 
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Hi guys,

I am the fellow who built the BOS 45 designed by SET12. Please allow me to explain my take on power, crossovers and SPLs...

I have a strong background in psychology, specifically human sensory perception. I also have a very strong background in measurement. I can tell you that the human ear is WAY more complex when hooked up to a brain than it is as a basic receiver (like a microphone is to a preamp). The brain fills in a lot. It is an extraordinarily sensitive and complex conjunction that leads to perception of sound.

Measuring power is easy; measuring how it effects the perception of music is not at all easy. I can tell you that having heard SET12’s stereo was enough to get me to invest more money and more time than any other venture I have set out on save my own university education of some 9 years now. It was that impressive. And yes it IS a matter of mating a driving source to a producing source, amp to speaker (never forgetting the room dynamics and the source quality either).

I have also keenly studied photography for some 40 years and have an engineering friend who has spent the same time studying vibrations both of automobile suspensions and his own stereos (he is the fellow who got me interested in stereo). We find there is a true state of affairs: in all complex systems like optics, stereo reproduction and even “road feel”: the whole system must be considered when looking at any aspect of the system. It is a matter of refinement. More complex systems take longer to refine.

This aught to be obvious but it takes time to settle in. We tend to take in problems in small chunks and look for solutions in small bits too. It leads to frustration.

Now I have followed SET12’s ideas because I have heard the results. Those ideas are a fairly large set of ideas and it has not been possible for me to act on all of them. I already had Al’s ES crossovers when I met him but I had come up through the “ranks” of a standard cap up grade, and a “universal” to the Extreme Slope. I liked each change along the trip but I can tell you I will look back towards a simple crossover with excellent parts when I have the opportunity; it is part of the “set” of SET12’a ideas and they integrate at the point of his own stereo; one very much worth emulating.

So, power, SPL’s and crossovers all interact. It is a complex system made even more complex when you put a human in the mix for a human evaluation. NUMBERS will never be sufficient to explain the complexities of human perception and please do not underestimate human hearing: if we had hearing any better than it is we would hear heat. It takes a displacement of one Helium atom diameter to activate cells in the Cochlea. The sensitivity range in ten to the twelfth power! Be careful with that instrument! If one wants to tease out the effects of any one measurement and/or configuration in a stereo, to do it right, is very expensive and time consuming (this is where listening to tales of other peoples experience may help but it is anecdotal and incomplete at best). If you wish to use numbers to help in the decision that is wise but always keep in mind the very large and complex system that is in play. Any one kind of measurement is only measuring a very small aspect of the whole system.

My system is much improved by following closely the science and experience of SET12's. It is rare indeed to find someone who has done a series of experiments of his own design and come to a happy conclusion. Al Klappenburger is one, Nelson Pass is another. You can list more. They will not have followed identical paths; it is too complex, but there will be overlap and hard data in there to chew on. Just don't forget to go hear the end product, the whole system before you evaluate the level of success and thus the completeness of the system of thought and its execution.
 
You bet!

Rather than quoting everything you wrote I try and address you paragraph by paragraph.


SET12

Sounds like a good plan :)


I can be a little dense. I appreciate your taking the time to explain your perspective. Every now and then a light bulb goes off about something I never really understood before. I don't rule this out as one of those potential times, but I just can't see it right now.
 
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Hi guys,

I am the fellow who built the BOS 45 designed by SET12. Please allow me to explain my take on power, crossovers and SPLs...

Al Klappenburger is one, Nelson Pass is another. You can list more.

You are one lucky son of a gun. Combining the Klipsch La Scala's with SET12's amp know-how and Al's crossover genius must make your ears very happy!

If your avatar shows your speakers, it looks like you have he Fastrak horns as well. Need to include Dave Harris on the list of those that make modding Klipsch possible, fun and rewarding. How did you get that tweeter mounted sideways like that. Dave didn't offer that for the La Scala?
 
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Hi guys,

I already had Al’s ES crossovers when I met him but I had come up through the “ranks” of a standard cap up grade, and a “universal” to the Extreme Slope. I liked each change along the trip but I can tell you I will look back towards a simple crossover with excellent parts when I have the opportunity

Could you be a little more specific Please. I have Crites new C/O on new boards in my 1979 Cornwalls that are all orginal except for the networks. What parts would purchase to do this to my series and year model Heritage speakers? I have Type "B" Klipsch networks.
I have followed SET12 networks for some time and wondering my next step without doing what you did 3 or 4 times.......... this will # 2 for new or maybe replacing some parts on one of boards I have the orginal one's that were still working. I am retired and have to save for several months for:music: upgrades. I don't play my music as loud as SET.:D
 
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Hi BPSHEEP!

I think it was on this forum that I posted my La scala modification process...in a nutshell, I cut out the whole top-front of the La scala and built the horns back in one at a time.

The mid range horn is one Al K. was selling for a time; I am told he no longer sells them. I think the maker was Martinelli but I am unsure.

To anyone who has Klipsch heritage speakers or speakers in that tradition I highly recommend attempting upgrades to the crossovers. Al's Universal is a great kit and if your system is top flight, "upgrades" within the scope of that kit are easy to discern (though your are going to double that price-point in a hurry). Every part makes a difference once you get to a certain point in the quest for a dream stereo :-)

Cheers!
 
LAB3...

I don't have any experience with your particular speakers though I hear only good things about them. To start small you might consider best quality resistors first, maybe try some small high quality by-pass capacitors. High grade inductors are the most expensive. Just make a few high quality swaps to see if you hear a change... :-)
 
LAB3...

I don't have any experience with your particular speakers though I hear only good things about them. To start small you might consider best quality resistors first, maybe try some small high quality by-pass capacitors. High grade inductors are the most expensive. Just make a few high quality swaps to see if you hear a change... :-)

I have no idea where to start as far as who sells better(more expensive) parts then what Bob crites sold me.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/43284454@N04/sets/72157627252013657/
 
LAB3,

That is one very simple crossover you have there. That's a good thing. It appears as though the Cornwalls use the same bass and mid range as my 1980 La scala's but I know from the format of the speaker the use of the bass driver is different and thus a different crossover design. I happen to like (as do many) the caps (Soni-caps) in the Crites improvement. If you can get the schematic and thus the specifications of the type "B" crossover you could try to find superior "iron" (those transformers on either end).

I am not saying the Bob Crites is not providing good stuff at all. I would just guess that someone, somewhere makes a better transformer than he chose for price-point and that this MIGHT sound better to you.

It is easier to try even better caps as the relevant information is stamped on them but you'd have to spend some serious money on caps better than the Soni-caps. see the following article:

http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html

Its a wonderful world of parts out there!
 
also LAB3...

You could contact Al Klappenberger about his Cornscala network at (ALK engineering). He may be able to explain how his crossover may be useable and/or superior to the one (type "B") you are now using.
 
Keep posting guys, I'm enjoying this read! I to have SET12 to thank for some of my amp design and insight on my crossover upgrades. jdg123 someday I'd like to hear your amps and have you over to hear mine. Sometime when you visit SET12 give me a call.
 
Could you be a little more specific Please. I have Crites new C/O on new boards in my 1979 Cornwalls that are all orginal except for the networks. What parts would purchase to do this to my series and year model Heritage speakers? I have Type "B" Klipsch networks.
I have followed SET12 networks for some time and wondering my next step without doing what you did 3 or 4 times.......... this will # 2 for new or maybe replacing some parts on one of boards I have the orginal one's that were still working. I am retired and have to save for several months for:music: upgrades. I don't play my music as loud as SET.:D

Wow what a simple network ,If really loved, one could have a field day with this using high subjective quality parts.

Cornwall%20Original%20B%20Xover11.jpg


Going all Duelund I could spend $3000 for these, of course your retired but there are still alternatives.

The Duielund Inductors I looked at were $2000/pair.

North Creeks are real bargins from my stand point.

North Creek 2.5mH in 10AWG are $135 each

North Creek 2.5mH in 8AWG are $232 each

The 10AWG's are so far ahead of the game, even the 12AWG @ $114 is good but for the difference in price myself the 10AWG is it.

These are some of the nicest sounding Autotransformers made in Germany. I have listened to 1 klipsch and the Crites but these are smoother and more open sounding they are $250/pair. I have them contrasting the klipsch, the crites are larger than the Klipsch and better. But not as nice as these C-Cores

germanautotransformers0.jpg


A lot you can do. As good as the Crites are they are not the last of subjective appeal for me at least in my experience.

Volume levels for me are absolutely recording dependent. Associated equipment often dictates what can and can not be tolerated for volume as well. But basically the more musical a system is the higher volumes can be taken IMO.

Another option are these, a Cornwall Universal network $300/pair

alkcornscalawallunivers.jpg


The nice thing about these is that you adjust the mid and tweeter levels!

So if you care to look around and need some assistance I can help you.

Cheers

SET12
 
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Keep posting guys, I'm enjoying this read! I to have SET12 to thank for some of my amp design and insight on my crossover upgrades. jdg123 someday I'd like to hear your amps and have you over to hear mine. Sometime when you visit SET12 give me a call.

Thanks Dave!
 
Sounds like a good plan :)


I can be a little dense. I appreciate your taking the time to explain your perspective. Every now and then a light bulb goes off about something I never really understood before. I don't rule this out as one of those potential times, but I just can't see it right now.

Hats off to you,

A couple of things though.

Its sometimes not easy to listen and be open minded. Or to come up with ideas for amplifiers that are not common place. And at the same time its no easier to stand up and defend an opinion. But my experiences with networks and amplifiers have hardly been subtle, if they were I'd most certainly leave well enough alone.

Basically I let my system do the talking as it did to John and DaveC then they reacted.

Cheers

SET12
 
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Wow what a simple network ,If really loved, one could have a field day with this using high subjective quality parts.

Cornwall%20Original%20B%20Xover11.jpg


Going all Duelund I could spend $3000 for these, of course your retired but there are still alternatives.

The Duielund Inductors I looked at were $2000/pair.

North Creeks are real bargins from my stand point.

North Creek 2.5mH in 10AWG are $135 each

North Creek 2.5mH in 8AWG are $232 each

The 10AWG's are so far ahead of the game, even the 12AWG @ $114 is good but for the difference in price myself the 10AWG is it.

These are some of the nicest sounding Autotransformers made in Germany. I have listened to 1 klipsch and the Crites but these are smoother and more open sounding they are $250/pair. I have them contrasting the klipsch, the crites are larger than the Klipsch and better. But not as nice as these C-Cores

germanautotransformers0.jpg


A lot you can do. As good as the Crites are they are not the last of subjective appeal for me at least in my experience.

Volume levels for me are absolutely recording dependent. Associated equipment often dictates what can and can not be tolerated for volume as well. But basically the more musical a system is the higher volumes can be taken IMO.

Another option are these, a Cornwall Universal network $300/pair

dscn3836.jpg


The nice thing about these is that you adjust the mid and tweeter levels!

So if you care to look around and need some assistance I can help you.

Cheers

SET12

WOW 3K in networks.... I hope someone local has this done to their Type B so I could hear the difference. I have my Cornwalls positioned and tuned correctly in a small den and they sound better then ever in this small room. I added two small subs with gain tuned down for some added bass :music:and HT use for Blurays. It would be nice to have stronger bass without my subs. I have noticed the older I get the more I use the subs for music and I keep addding the signal strength to the mids and highs as I can only hear up to 15K on that hearing test. Most of the R&B does not go up that high so I am OK.
ALK did not have those networks for $300.00 on their site two years ago when I purchased Crites new C/O or I might have spent $100.00 more and purchased those. When I have some extra cash I will PM you...:thmbsp: Thanks
Louis
 
I ran my Lascalas stock for 27 years. I made the decision to modify them mostly becayse mine were involved in a house fire. They made it out okay but got wet. The original crossovers, not only being 27 years old were also rusting,BAD. Even if they hadnt rusted from water damage, they would be in need for a recappin at least.

I just opted to get new ones. Crites were recommended from a few fellow AKers so thats where I went. Talking to Bob, he recomended the A/4500's and also made a recommendation to give his CT-125 tweeters a try. Mostly the CT-125's could handle more then the originals in Freq response and the A/4500's shifted freqs some, taking some from the mid driver, which tamed the harshness you hear of now and then and moved more of the upper mid freqs to the tweeters, which the B&K CT-125s could handle easily.

I made a switch in the mid horn also a year or so ago. Reason being, one of my mid drivers, under a heavy load, would start to break up. New mid drivers were needed and liking what I have done so far with Crites, I got a recommendation from Bob and went with it. Gotta tell ya too, no regrets what-so-ever. The original woofers are still going strong at this point and have no need to change them. In reality, the mods I made were because they were needed anyway.

I also added modified ported risers to mine a few years ago. I had the risers built in 85, saw a thread about the ported riser and just converted the ones i already had. The ports do seem to bring more bottom end out so it was a worth while mod.
 
Hats off to you,

A couple of things though.

Its sometimes not easy to listen and be open minded. Or to come up with ideas for amplifiers that are not common place. And at the same time its no easier to stand up and defend an opinion. But my experiences with networks and amplifiers have hardly been subtle, if they were I'd most certainly leave well enough alone.

Basically I let my system do the talking as it did to John and DaveC then they reacted.

Cheers

SET12

I enjoy reading the info on this website, and certainly you have some good experience to share. I do think you are way off on several points you made but ultimately I don't really care to dispute them with you. At the end of the day, they are your opinion. I learned a long time ago I can't argue my opinion over another person's opinion without causing harm to one or the others or both their reputations. So I try to leave well enough alone when it comes to opinions. I mean no harm. I don't care to "defend" my opinion or attack another. Its also good to remember that an opinion is not fact when offering it up. Ultimately it is quite healthy and enriching to share varied opinions. Helps to remove the blinders we often wear.

One of my favorite sayings is "figures lie and liars figure". I'm not directing that at you Set12, but I think "reader beware" is the point of anything posted in a forum that is based on opinion and delivered as fact. There may be a tendency here, by many, to exaggerate... ever so slightly. I think it has to do with wanting others to help justify their expenses. When that happens they tend to have a greater stake in their opinion being assimilated by all.

People will make their choices based on what they will. Like I did. I did not take the advice of any one person. I did the research, much like you have. Others just want to be led by someone that seems to know what they are doing to save them the trouble of learning it on their own. Either way is fine.

I hate seeing people get misled, (as you probably do) but it's not my cause to Champion since, again, it is based on opinion which has no right or wrong when it comes to what sounds good or where to spend one's money. It's a lost cause. I'll leave it at that.

But what Forums are good for, after weeding out the facts from the fiction, is you end up with some really good info. Which leads me to asking you where you get those German made auto-transformers and what do they cost? They look very precision.
 
Set12 when you use your SPL meter what "Weighting" do you use? I have the older (larger) Realistic Sound Level Meter 33-2050. In the book it explains about A and C and slow and fast response. My chart shows for duration per day by hours.. 90 DB for 8 Hrs A-weighting SLOW response. If I go to C/Slow it measure a lot higher with same volume.:scratch2: My friend has the newer model like mine with the VU needle and his is slimmer and a bit smaller. His book has just oppostite for it's chart(use "C") from 90/115 and how long they advise you to go by. I like the "A" setting better... more volume :thmbsp: so tomorrow he is coming over with his newer meter to compair just how LOUD do I play it. I usually like a few songs at 95 to 100 steady.Corns are 8 feet(towed in, corners of the wall) across and center of sofa is 8 feet back. This is best they have Ever sounded in 30 odd years in larger rooms... my two subs helps too. I was "Suprised" I have gotten to playing music this loud. I have not measure how loud I play them in some time. I use the meter for a Bluray and show wife etc how loud we are going as not have their ears "Ringing" after a 2 hour movie. I thought I would measure and see so I purchase the correct parts for my next networks and maybe a Crites cast frame 15" and his tweeters. I may need them for the volume I play at.
 
Set12 when you use your SPL meter what "Weighting" do you use? I have the older (larger) Realistic Sound Level Meter 33-2050. In the book it explains about A and C and slow and fast response. My chart shows for duration per day by hours.. 90 DB for 8 Hrs A-weighting SLOW response. If I go to C/Slow it measure a lot higher with same volume.:scratch2: My friend has the newer model like mine with the VU needle and his is slimmer and a bit smaller. His book has just oppostite for it's chart(use "C") from 90/115 and how long they advise you to go by. I like the "A" setting better... more volume :thmbsp: so tomorrow he is coming over with his newer meter to compair just how LOUD do I play it. I usually like a few songs at 95 to 100 steady.Corns are 8 feet(towed in, corners of the wall) across and center of sofa is 8 feet back. This is best they have Ever sounded in 30 odd years in larger rooms... my two subs helps too. I was "Suprised" I have gotten to playing music this loud. I have not measure how loud I play them in some time. I use the meter for a Bluray and show wife etc how loud we are going as not have their ears "Ringing" after a 2 hour movie. I thought I would measure and see so I purchase the correct parts for my next networks and maybe a Crites cast frame 15" and his tweeters. I may need them for the volume I play at.

Out of curiosity, when you do the "slow C" measurement while watching a movie and are reading 95-100 steady, what does the Yamaha show as reference level? +15? +20? The YPAO setup, if you use it, will give you a pretty close approximation to the actual SPL you are listening at. Once calibrated "0" reference level is 80dB. On the screen it will show +15 etc. That would mean 95dB. Obviously the source material will cause a bit of variance in the actual SPL. But its pretty close. I limit mine to +15 but default is +20 I believe. I don't know if you can increase it further from that, but you might look into that if you want it even louder.

I have the same meter you do from back in 93'. I now have the TrueRTA system on a laptop when I am wanting to measure sound levels and other characteristics, but for just getting a quick SPL level that meter should work OK if you understand its limitations and what it actually measures.

If you are measuring to determine components to purchase, you really should not base that decision on the RS meter. Both weightings on this meter are only accurate to about 10KHz and they were designed to follow the curve of the human ear in relation to sensitivity to damage at specific frequencies. It is used for purposes of ear health to comply with OSHA guidelines. I think most people can hear well to ~15-16KHz, just to give an idea of what it doesn't measure. Neither A" or C" weighting is truly flat, which you would want for audio analysis. If I remember correctly, RS marketed these under the premise they cold be used for HI-FI analysis and correction etc. There is even a page in the booklet describing it. But, they really are not up to that task. Kind of misleading IMO. But I've a learned a lot since then so it may have been my lack of understanding when I bought it.

This explains A,B and C ratings better than I ever could:
http://www.hearforever.org/tools-to-learn/sound-source-a-and-c-weighted-noise-measurements

My summation is this:

Higher and lower are such subjective terms so I wanted to nail down the actual levels for these defined by OSHA. 100dB is the magic number when weighting SPL. Sound at any frequency above 100dB causes the same damage, or should I say, has the potential of damage if listened to over a certain period of time, which is why the curve is more like a flat line. And that is how the "stay times" are derived. The page you refer to in our booklet, I believe, is incorrect. It should have indicated that you would switch to C" weighting at 100dB.

It depends on what your purpose is. If you are concerned about damage from watching a movie too loud, then:
-If you listen at 100dB or above use the C" rating "slow" response.
-If you listen at <100dB use the A" rating "slow" response.
-Since you seem to be right at the division between the two, I would measure C".

If you just want to get a pretty good idea of the average actual SPL then use the C" weighting since it is flatter up to 10KHz.

If you want to measure peaks, I think you already know this, but switch to "fast". Peaks aren't generally measured for purposes of stay times but may be of personal interest.

If you are analyzing speaker performance, don't use the RS meter. It really wasn't made for that. You would use unweighted or Z" weighting which is a flat 20Hz-20Khz frequency response for analyzing speakers.

The A" rating is louder because of the curve used. Again, it is not measuring actual SPL as closely as the C" rating does. If you look at he chart it actually registers about 3dB higher than actual between 1KHz and 1.6KHz due to the extra sensitivity of the ear to damage in that range. So reading higher on your meter would translate to less stay time. But since you are at the 100dB level, you would go by the C" weighting for stay time.
 
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