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Why do so many people modify Klipsch?

Out of curiosity, when you do the "slow C" measurement while watching a movie and are reading 95-100 steady, what does the Yamaha show as reference level? +15? +20? The YPAO setup, if you use it, will give you a pretty close approximation to the actual SPL you are listening at. Once calibrated "0" reference level is 80dB. On the screen it will show +15 etc. That would mean 95dB. Obviously the source material will cause a bit of variance in the actual SPL. But its pretty close. I limit mine to +15 but default is +20 I believe. I don't know if you can increase it further from that, but you might look into that if you want it even louder.

I have the same meter you do from back in 93'. I now have the TrueRTA system on a laptop when I am wanting to measure sound levels and other characteristics, but for just getting a quick SPL level that meter should work OK if you understand its limitations and what it actually measures.

If you are measuring to determine components to purchase, you really should not base that decision on the RS meter. Both weightings on this meter are only accurate to about 10KHz and they were designed to follow the curve of the human ear in relation to sensitivity to damage at specific frequencies. It is used for purposes of ear health to comply with OSHA guidelines. I think most people can hear well to ~15-16KHz, just to give an idea of what it doesn't measure. Neither A" or C" weighting is truly flat, which you would want for audio analysis. If I remember correctly, RS marketed these under the premise they cold be used for HI-FI analysis and correction etc. There is even a page in the booklet describing it. But, they really are not up to that task. Kind of misleading IMO. But I've a learned a lot since then so it may have been my lack of understanding when I bought it.

This explains A,B and C ratings better than I ever could:
http://www.hearforever.org/tools-to-learn/sound-source-a-and-c-weighted-noise-measurements

My summation is this:

Higher and lower are such subjective terms so I wanted to nail down the actual levels for these defined by OSHA. 100dB is the magic number when weighting SPL. Sound at any frequency above 100dB causes the same damage, or should I say, has the potential of damage if listened to over a certain period of time, which is why the curve is more like a flat line. And that is how the "stay times" are derived. The page you refer to in our booklet, I believe, is incorrect. It should have indicated that you would switch to C" weighting at 100dB.

It depends on what your purpose is. If you are concerned about damage from watching a movie too loud, then:
-If you listen at 100dB or above use the C" rating "slow" response.
-If you listen at <100dB use the A" rating "slow" response.
-Since you seem to be right at the division between the two, I would measure C".

If you just want to get a pretty good idea of the average actual SPL then use the C" weighting since it is flatter up to 10KHz.

If you want to measure peaks, I think you already know this, but switch to "fast". Peaks aren't generally measured for purposes of stay times but may be of personal interest.

If you are analyzing speaker performance, don't use the RS meter. It really wasn't made for that. You would use unweighted or Z" weighting which is a flat 20Hz-20Khz frequency response for analyzing speakers.

The A" rating is louder because of the curve used. Again, it is not measuring actual SPL as closely as the C" rating does. If you look at he chart it actually registers about 3dB higher than actual between 1KHz and 1.6KHz due to the extra sensitivity of the ear to damage in that range. So reading higher on your meter would translate to less stay time. But since you are at the 100dB level, you would go by the C" weighting for stay time.

Thanks for the info and link. I will test all this tomorrow when the wife is at work and I can rerun YPAO it been a year or so(and moved the settingsfor more center and rears) and Mike will be here with his newer meter. For movies with the wife I use C slow to be safe and same for music. I have never gone to +20 on my display my ears would bleed. -10 is 100 DB steady today C slow on CD music. I think + 6 one time on a soft song on my R2R is as far as I have pushed my Yamaha. One or two songs and I turn it down.
 
LAB3,

I just wanted to add that TrueRTA does have a free trial version you can use if you are up to the task. The resolution on the free version is pretty low, but if you have never used one of these before it would be a good intro to see if you would have interest in taking the next step. There are generic calibration files that are available for the RS meters which will correct the weighted frequency response and allow you to use them as microphones for the SW. They still aren't ideal, but a good cheap way to play around with it. I always take readings from the individual crossover sections before every change I make so I can compare and better understand why the sound is different. Food for thought...
 
Thanks for the info and link. I will test all this tomorrow when the wife is at work and I can rerun YPAO it been a year or so(and moved the settingsfor more center and rears) and Mike will be here with his newer meter. For movies with the wife I use C slow to be safe and same for music. I have never gone to +20 on my display my ears would bleed. -10 is 100 DB steady today C slow on CD music. I think + 6 one time on a soft song on my R2R is as far as I have pushed my Yamaha. One or two songs and I turn it down.

Wow! Yes, it seems you should re-run the YPAO calibration.

I think this whole thread has answered the original poster's question. There is a lot of participation in the Klipsch community that encourages and supports fellow owner's questions, provides answers, offers great ideas and shares proven solutions.
 
I enjoy reading the info on this website, and certainly you have some good experience to share. I do think you are way off on several points you made but ultimately I don't really care to dispute them with you. At the end of the day, they are your opinion. I learned a long time ago I can't argue my opinion over another person's opinion without causing harm to one or the others or both their reputations. So I try to leave well enough alone when it comes to opinions. I mean no harm. I don't care to "defend" my opinion or attack another. Its also good to remember that an opinion is not fact when offering it up. Ultimately it is quite healthy and enriching to share varied opinions. Helps to remove the blinders we often wear.

One of my favorite sayings is "figures lie and liars figure". I'm not directing that at you Set12, but I think "reader beware" is the point of anything posted in a forum that is based on opinion and delivered as fact. There may be a tendency here, by many, to exaggerate... ever so slightly. I think it has to do with wanting others to help justify their expenses. When that happens they tend to have a greater stake in their opinion being assimilated by all.

People will make their choices based on what they will. Like I did. I did not take the advice of any one person. I did the research, much like you have. Others just want to be led by someone that seems to know what they are doing to save them the trouble of learning it on their own. Either way is fine.

I hate seeing people get misled, (as you probably do) but it's not my cause to Champion since, again, it is based on opinion which has no right or wrong when it comes to what sounds good or where to spend one's money. It's a lost cause. I'll leave it at that.

But what Forums are good for, after weeding out the facts from the fiction, is you end up with some really good info. Which leads me to asking you where you get those German made auto-transformers and what do they cost? They look very precision.

Your right about a lot of this, but some I have disagree with also. I like take ownership of my points and I am very passionate about them enough to invite people into my home even if I put them up a night or two.

I'm passionate about extraordinary ideas because of what they can do for someone as they did me. I did so much buying and selling through the years, I got sick of the hobby and left it completely for a few years because I never had satisfaction enough. Then I discovered what DIYing could do like returning a 5-10 fold return of investment vs manufactures products.

I'm not much interested in mods that just do the job but mods or builds that are extraordinary.

For DaveC and jdg123, I invited both in my home, DaveC belongs to my local audio club and lives a mere 100mi away, an easy drive. But jdg123 lives 450mi from me he came to see me first, and of course there is always a risk of being disappointed.

If my work was not extraordinary I don't think jdg123 would go through the trouble of trusting me to sit at his kitchen table and design him a 2 watt amplifier where he goes out and spends $3000 on parts.

Nor do I think DaveC a smart enough guy to build his own home and two airplanes from scratch think that I'm not capable.

Both of these people saw and heard. Which I often offer to people interested in hearing for themselves knowing full well that these kinds of mods aren't necessarily for everyone's needs like those with common mid electronics, but still even with basically good electronics one can hear benefits just not to the level if the full system has similar capacities.

At the same time, yes I have some experience with audio shows whether it be the CES or AKfests where I have heard major disappointments, but its not easy making a hotel room sound good! Went to the last AKfest with jdg123, his first show I think! A real eye opener for him when he walks into a room with 50-$75,000 worth of big name gear and its a major disappointment an experience that I have had many times myself. But those rooms could be what someone else finds bliss with so that makes my opinion just an opinion.

Talk about having an opinion check this site out! http://www.high-endaudio.com/

Should get your blood going good!

I find a lot of what he has to say correct for me, of course I don't agree with it all. But as he say's rarely has he ever run into people that like exactly the same things as he does.

Still there is wealth of very valuable information and experience.

Whether one wants to pursue them is up to the person reading. I often use IMO or YMMV from associated gear which is very much responsible for how much your going to get from network mods. Anyone's mods for that matter.

As I like to say hearing is believing :thmbsp:

German C-Core Auto-transformers about $200 and $50 to get them here

They are available in 14 steps -3db standard or -1db steps custom at no charge. He's a great guy to deal with.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/mast_mutter/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=25

sccores.jpg


SET12
 
Set12 when you use your SPL meter what "Weighting" do you use? I have the older (larger) Realistic Sound Level Meter 33-2050. In the book it explains about A and C and slow and fast response. My chart shows for duration per day by hours.. 90 DB for 8 Hrs A-weighting SLOW response. If I go to C/Slow it measure a lot higher with same volume.:scratch2: My friend has the newer model like mine with the VU needle and his is slimmer and a bit smaller. His book has just oppostite for it's chart(use "C") from 90/115 and how long they advise you to go by. I like the "A" setting better... more volume :thmbsp: so tomorrow he is coming over with his newer meter to compair just how LOUD do I play it. I usually like a few songs at 95 to 100 steady.Corns are 8 feet(towed in, corners of the wall) across and center of sofa is 8 feet back. This is best they have Ever sounded in 30 odd years in larger rooms... my two subs helps too. I was "Suprised" I have gotten to playing music this loud. I have not measure how loud I play them in some time. I use the meter for a Bluray and show wife etc how loud we are going as not have their ears "Ringing" after a 2 hour movie. I thought I would measure and see so I purchase the correct parts for my next networks and maybe a Crites cast frame 15" and his tweeters. I may need them for the volume I play at.

I have the same exact meter.

I reference my readings typically from "C" Fast

So if I reach 100db at my chair the average readings are considerably lower. For slow "C" and lower yet for Slow "A"

The difference between the A-weighting and C-weighting is the frequency coverage of the weighting.

A= 500-to-10,000hz

C= 32-to-10,000

Therefore C-weighting will be higher

Site SPL Calculator http://myhometheater.homestead.com/splcalculator.html


This quote below from the site page http://myhometheater.homestead.com/RMS.html

Bottom Line: For audio applications, our ears are RMS instruments, not peak reading. So using RMS values makes sense, and is normally how amplifiers are rated.

If you use an SPL meter (like the popular Radio Shack(TM) model) in fast response mode; you will see peaks in excess of what you calculate with the SPL calculator on this site. The meter is tracking the "peaks". Slow response time will give you an RMS reading, not true RMS, but close enough :)


My room size is 14ft x 18ft with 8ft ceilings. I listen on the long wall that has full corners about 10ft away speaker are 9ft apart 4.5ft from side walls about 1.5ft from the wall.

I'd like to add that BPSHEEP gave an excellent link to the scales A-B-C-weighted sound measuring.

My self I pretty much am a 2-channel man, yrs ago I was into surround but my interest in maximizing two channel sound became first and foremost, unfortunately the AV receivers or for that matter AV separates are not in the same league for my needs. Once in a while I'll run a DAC to my amplifiers from a Blu-Ray player or DVD player. One can here some pretty amazing stuff from a great 2-channel system that can project a 30ft wide sound stage not to mention freaky things that are to the immediate left or right of the viewer-listener. My bass is so solid to 30hz and above I have no need for subs, great amps help out of course. Largely I'd rather have the large $500/pair North Creek Inductors over any subs for my fortes. Whats real funny is when my stepson comes into house from his 1000 watt car sub and I say oh! I can do rap with my 10 watt amplifiers, and he turns looks at me in a bewildered stare and asks "how can 10 watt peak amplifiers and those speakers do that?" I answer, by design.

SET12
 
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I have the same exact meter.

I reference my readings typically from "C" Fast

So if I reach 100db at my chair the average readings are considerably lower. For slow "C" and lower yet for Slow "A"

The difference between the A-weighting and C-weighting is the frequency coverage of the weighting.

A= 500-to-10,000hz

C= 32-to-10,000

Therefore C-weighting will be higher

Site SPL Calculator http://myhometheater.homestead.com/splcalculator.html


This quote below from the site page http://myhometheater.homestead.com/RMS.html

Bottom Line: For audio applications, our ears are RMS instruments, not peak reading. So using RMS values makes sense, and is normally how amplifiers are rated.

If you use an SPL meter (like the popular Radio Shack(TM) model) in fast response mode; you will see peaks in excess of what you calculate with the SPL calculator on this site. The meter is tracking the "peaks". Slow response time will give you an RMS reading, not true RMS, but close enough :)


My room size is 14ft x 18ft with 8ft ceilings. I listen on the long wall that has full corners about 10ft away speaker are 9ft apart 4.5ft from side walls about 1.5ft from the wall.

I'd like to add that BPSHEEP gave an excellent link to the scales A-B-C-weighted sound measuring.

My self I pretty much am a 2-channel man, yrs ago I was into surround but my interest in maximizing two channel sound became first and foremost, unfortunately the AV receivers or for that matter AV separates are not in the same league for my needs. Once in a while I'll run a DAC to my amplifiers from a Blu-Ray player or DVD player. One can here some pretty amazing stuff from a great 2-channel system that can project a 30ft wide sound stage not to mention freaky things that are to the immediate left or right of the viewer-listener. My bass is so solid to 30hz and above I have no need for subs, great amps help out of course. Largely I'd rather have the large $500/pair North Creek Inductors over any subs for my fortes. Whats real funny is when my stepson comes into house from his 1000 watt car sub and I say oh! I can do rap with my 10 watt amplifiers, and he turns looks at me in a bewildered stare and asks "how can 10 watt peak amplifiers and those speakers do that?" I answer, by design.

SET12

Your step son and myself have asked that same question.:yes: As you may know I grew up around tube amps and Klipschorns so I do unsderstand now about Single Ended triode designs somewhat. It's the networks I am having a hard time wrapping my old brain around after my late dad telling me PWK speakers are great out of the box( he was a pilot and Air craft mechanic). But he said the same about my Corvette and my some of my Sport Motorcycles. I have done mods to all for years. My wife said I can't leave the lawn mower alone...:D Pop was wrong on the speakers...sigh. or he did not want me to mess with his "babies" :scratch2:
Thanks for the link. I have several sites to read this week end from you and BPSHEEP.
Thanks Guys...:thmbsp:
Louis
 
Your right about a lot of this, but some I have disagree with also. I like take ownership of my points and I am very passionate about them enough to invite people into my home even if I put them up a night or two.

I'm passionate about extraordinary ideas because of what they can do for someone as they did me. I did so much buying and selling through the years, I got sick of the hobby and left it completely for a few years because I never had satisfaction enough. Then I discovered what DIYing could do like returning a 5-10 fold return of investment vs manufactures products.

I'm not much interested in mods that just do the job but mods or builds that are extraordinary.


SET12

I think you have touched on a fundamental and important aspect. Our motivations are not the same.

It's all about the most bang for the buck to me. As we approach the very top of the component quality range the prices increase exponentially. As they say "squeezing out that last 1% is 99% of the cost". I prefer to reach that 99% level and will never miss that last 1%. My ears are just normal, nothing exceptional. But I do want that 99% level and am passionate about that. I don't care about what a young healthy tuned ear "might" be able to hear at 10X+ the cost. I do care about improvements anyone can appreciate.

My problem with following the 1% path to audio perfection is:

1. It breaks the 99% rule I follow to keep me sane
2. If I ever do want to redesign the network, there is a good chance that the component value may not be ideal for reuse. So I may tend to stick with what I have just so they aren't money wasted or try to design a network around components I already have, which is backwards from how it should be done.
3. Buying a few really high end components leads me to wanting to replace them all similarly. Refer to #2 why I wouldn't want to do that.
4. I have gone down this path in multiple undertakings over my lifetime and have found, for me, it leads to obsession and ultimately never really satisfied since there is always something else. It's a vicious circular path leading one to their own insanity. My pursuit for 99% is a good reference for me to target which keeps me happy. It's kind of like finishing a surface using gloss paint. Semi-Gloss is probably a better choice for most since the imperfections are less noticeable vs. seeing every imperfection and trying to get rid of them all or living with them knowing they are there.
5. Again, it's all about the most bang for the buck to me. If I find I am going after the 1% I hear "Warning Will Robinson" in my head.

I also have my pet peeves, or obsessions that I will relate to anyone that will listen. For example, the misuse and deceptive marketing of silver solder. It doesn't matter what group you fall under for that conversation. Fact is fact. Same for the RS meter. Many people are mislead by what it actually is. I have no problem clarifying that for anyone. Those things that are not based on opinion but are just misunderstood I will arise to the pulpit and preach until the sheep come home. Opinion's, however, I need to respect just as I would want one to do for mine.

Since both groups (1% and 99%) seem to want to help others by sharing experiences, I think it's worthwhile to first gain an understanding of which group the audience falls into. For example, I may be wrong, but my take on Lab3 is that he is 99%er. He's retired, on a fixed income, admits his hearing is not special and didn't say anything that would lead me to consider him a 1%er. Did I get the right picture LAB3? Talking Deuland and North Creek updates would be inappropriate for a 99%er, if wanting to help him with his updates. In contrast, the ALK network might be a good recommendation.

I enjoy the exceptional. Reading about it and understanding it. I have admiration for those 1% that live there as long as they don't disrespect where I live or try to convince me theirs is the place "I" need to be. Been there and done that. I know it is not for me. From a practicality standpoint, I don't strive to achieve that on my own equipment for the reasons I stated. Unlike you, I am an avid HT listener. You may be able to do without a sub on stereo music, In fact, I know you can. But in HT your Fortes would not cut the mustard w/o one. Its not that I don't enjoy listening to stereo music. I do. But I also listen to DTS 5.1 music. To me, it is quite extraordinary. But mostly I watch movies. So we have different motivations. Both are fine, just inevitably different. I can't make you adopt mine or me yours.

So I fully understand your perspective. You could say I'm a 99%er and you're a 1%er. I occasionally will still step over the line into insanity and spend on excess just because I want it and fortunate enough that I can afford it. Those C" coils are an example of this. They are beautiful... I want them... they will be mine. Maybe the North Creeks also. These break the 99% rule for me yet I don't care. I have no "sound" reasoning for it. (Pun intended)

From a 99% perspective, the ALK AP12-500 + ES5800 networks are a great combo. Yes, they could be improved with better components as you pointed out. And if you have the desire to, swapping components is pretty easy to do. As I said, I may very well do exactly that since I do not foresee that I would ever re-design them. I also think (emphasizing this is opinion) those that have heard them, without also changing the K400 horn, might find them less than what they expected. I believe the deficiency of the k400 horn is exacerbated by the ES-5800 networks. This may be why Al always recommends the Fastrak horn upgrade before a crossover upgrade. The article you provided about the Edgar interview and 1st order designs,... all opinion and I won't... can't argue that. As I write this, I know you won't agree since it is not your pursuit. It doesn't make either of us wrong. We are both correct in terms of what directions to take since we have different destinations.

Please never stop sharing. You offer some really good advice for those wanting to climb into your realm or just curious about it. I would fit in the latter category.
 
This thread started with "Why do people modify their Klipsch?" For me it was a pretty easy answer, SET12. I was running my RF25s through my Sansui 1000a but wanted some 300B monoblocks, I never heard a 300B amp before but I just wanted them. SET12 invited me over and before you know it I scratch built a set of 300B amps that I will stand up against any 300B out there. Next came the speaker mods, I've got a thread on DIY on the amps and one on this forum on the speakers. I don't know what the next project will be for me but it will be a learning and fun venture I'm sure. Once you have good amps and tweaked speakers don't forget wire. Wire upgrades, interconnect and speaker wire are huge in over all sound. If you are willing to experiment and learn, you can have great sound for not a lot of money.
 
Since both groups (1% and 99%) seem to want to help others by sharing experiences, I think it's worthwhile to first gain an understanding of which group the audience falls into. For example, I may be wrong, but my take on Lab3 is that he is 99%er. He's retired, on a fixed income, admits his hearing is not special and didn't say anything that would lead me to consider him a 1%er. Did I get the right picture LAB3? Talking Deuland and North Creek updates would be inappropriate for a 99%er, if wanting to help him with his updates. In contrast, the ALK network might be a good recommendation.
.

My budget keeps me from being a 1%...... for 30 years I have been very pleased with what I do have in a small room:thmbsp: I am curious to how my Cornwalls will sound with SET12 networks but 3 grand right now is out of the question. In a few months I will be 62 and my SS checks wil start and I will be able to afford some upgrades. But right now my wife( youger and still works) will have a fit if I spend anymore of our savings on music upgrades as she thinks what I have now is over the top compaired to most of our friends with little cubes etc on their flatt screens:D I have been a 1% on my Corvette and my Sport Bikes
for years when I had a real job :yes:. I will try some different tweeter and mid parts later and maybe the ALK or change out some parts in my stock C/O.
I enjoy learning about these speakers and old school amps that Pop had so many years ago that we sold :tears: thinking SS AVR for DD5.1 was cool on a big TV.. so here I go 10 years later looking at old school amps and better parts for my Cornwalls. I have printed all these pic's and info for latter use when I can afford that extra 1% or maybe 1/2 of that 1%:thmbsp: I have learned a lot in the last year reading these threads. Thanks. Keep posting.
Louis
 
Your step son and myself have asked that same question.:yes: As you may know I grew up around tube amps and Klipschorns so I do unsderstand now about Single Ended triode designs somewhat. It's the networks I am having a hard time wrapping my old brain around after my late dad telling me PWK speakers are great out of the box( he was a pilot and Air craft mechanic). But he said the same about my Corvette and my some of my Sport Motorcycles. I have done mods to all for years. My wife said I can't leave the lawn mower alone...:D Pop was wrong on the speakers...sigh. or he did not want me to mess with his "babies" :scratch2:
Thanks for the link. I have several sites to read this week end from you and BPSHEEP.
Thanks Guys...:thmbsp:
Louis

Well to give some explanation of how my SET amplifiers can compete with my stepson's car stereo its like this.

I don't know if my stepson was using one of those car stereo 1 Farad (1,000,000uf) supply caps (the size of a couple of beer cans in length typically) in parallel with his battery possibly, but maybe not. But that 1 Farad @ 14 volts on it is about 100 Joules of energy for his 1000 watt amplifier. That's really not a huge amount of energy. A lot of HT receivers are lucky half the time to have half this amount.

Now imagine my 10 watt SET tube amplifiers having 400 Joules of energy and a resistance path of just a few ohm's of which to move it. A normal tube amp can have several hundred ohm's to have to move its energy and it may only have 30-50 joules. The path resistance and the capacitance create time constants. To much resistance or not enough reserves and things slow down, hence lack of impact.

Its not volume of capacitance alone that does this. But its the way it is used. Most people that build or design amplifiers know that to much capacitance is bad sounding! and it is if you apply it in a classical circuit design. Mine is not, each section of the supply is highly isolated allowing smaller caps to charge and discharge at faster rates without the negative influence of bulk reserves.

As BPSHEEP points out if your a 1% person then Bob Crites or better yet IMO ALK is your answer.

Simply because the return on Mods as I have done become less apparent on their return of investment when associated gear is not to the same level. I have had numerous amplifiers and digital gear I have used with my Fortes and the Modified Fortes tell it like it is good or bad! and if its bad I don't point the finger at the Fortes which could easily be done if one were not hearing what I hear from my own associated electronics. I think a lot of people are not using 3-$5000 CDP's as I'm using, and even then among expensive players in my system they are all over the place as far as performance.

Its kind of like just dropping in a 500hp motor into some family car without associated support like beefed up tranny, rear end, cooling system, suspension, shocks, tires etc...

For your dad yeah good enough was probably on his mind and not many in his day were looking to do things like that, that are found on this forum today. But believe me a few did venture there.

This guys dad was a NASA Engineer in 1961, notice the size! Of these Klipsch Networks
3616083100_ece871aa76.jpg


I think you have touched on a fundamental and important aspect. Our motivations are not the same.

Again I'll leave the bulk of the quote and respond to what you wrote. which I think is very,very good!

1%, well if it was that to me I would of let it all alone a long time ago. But I understand were your coming from.

Let me give you an example, with the Forte mods I did along with the associated gear I use, the Fortes sound stage presentation tripled in its size.

That's a 66% return in my book. But one can not expect this return from your average AV gear or for that matter average 2 channel or even some very good gear. Largely some people care about this and many do not. But I do. So it is valuable to me.

You state,

Unlike you, I am an avid HT listener. You may be able to do without a sub on stereo music, In fact, I know you can. But in HT your Fortes would not cut the mustard w/o one.

In an extreme sense of volume and excursion perhaps, but not in the sense of quality bass over a broad range.

For yrs I attended movie theaters 2 and 3 times a week. In fact, remember the 1974 movie "Earthquake"? I attended it in the theater with its monstrous sound system, it was pretty impressive with all the Cerwin Vega subs and BGW power amplifiers. I had heard the makers of the film were sued for structural damage in some theaters. I do have an appreciation for theater sound, But at the same time I have been disappointed by many theaters sound systems as well.

I have a very good 60in flat screen, outputting digital to a good external DAC in a 2-channel system like what I have is far more involving for me then many 5.1 HT receivers, an opinion yes, but I'm not alone here.

As far as subs vs the North Creeks, most subs just go boom,boom,boom for me. Very little pitch definition.

While my modified Fortes are certainly not the last statement in pitch definition (my reference is Dunlevy 4A's that a friend has a $6,000 loudspeaker that goes with authority to 25hz)The modified Fortes can make you notice to their bass, which can start and stop nearly on a dime. I like to call it tractor like, my friend John calls it grip! Its enough to feel in the seat of your pants on a heavy leather sofa. As a visitor who is a heavy equipment operator said "The bass with the North Creeks is like a jack hammer, no subs needed!" that was coming from a guy with several subs of his own. And the Fortes can display lateral weight in a greater frequency range than 20hz to 120hz, 30hz to 700hz is more useful to me. Stock Fortes in contrast are unfortunately very lean in the bass and unfortunately what pitch definition they have leaves some people desiring subs. But when they don't integrate well, IMO its the rest of the range of the lows that often are sloppy that makes the integration difficult and that's the inductor being used that causes that IMO.

The difference here in your opinion is, I do have the North Creeks, and I have stock Fortes so unless you've heard them then only then would be believing or disbelieving be a fair opinion. Like DaveC who has heard them and has heard the Dunlevy's recently.

I freely admit the claims are down right outrageous and darn outright unbelievable, I still do double takes to this day. But the sound makes me passionate about Klipsch.

Whats nice about all this is the price I paid and I can walk into a $100,000 room and not worry about lusting because I have what some those $100,000 rooms do for me. Its what makes me so passionate about DIYing and AK.

Basically though yes, there is a place for the so called 1% and the 99% but as I said IMO its the ability to compete with the 1% at a fraction of the price and I mean competing with a $4000 DIY investment with a $40,000 retail sound system.

That's satisfaction at its best!

Cheers

SET12
 
This thread started with "Why do people modify their Klipsch?" For me it was a pretty easy answer, SET12. I was running my RF25s through my Sansui 1000a but wanted some 300B monoblocks, I never heard a 300B amp before but I just wanted them. SET12 invited me over and before you know it I scratch built a set of 300B amps that I will stand up against any 300B out there. Next came the speaker mods, I've got a thread on DIY on the amps and one on this forum on the speakers. I don't know what the next project will be for me but it will be a learning and fun venture I'm sure. Once you have good amps and tweaked speakers don't forget wire. Wire upgrades, interconnect and speaker wire are huge in over all sound. If you are willing to experiment and learn, you can have great sound for not a lot of money.

Thanks Dave,

Your absolutely a Master Craftsman, I have a lot I can learn from you!

Planes,Trains, Automobiles not to mention stereo construction techniques.

That's fun of this hobby is learning from each other and at the same time respecting each others path's.

I'll say again your 300B amp's are the best I have heard, tonally I think they match the best 2A3's I have heard. The interesting thing is they use SS rectifiers at that, I would of never of dreamed they would compete with a very good rectifier tube. But there is something to be said about bridge rectifiers even if done with tubes, the single winding is reputed to be smoother. Your amplifiers have unbelievable smoothness with fantastic tonality. I'm hoping with John's BOS45 mono amplifiers they get even more musical then they already are from the 6D22S tube bridge rectifiers he's building. The DCR of which from the B+ iron and chokes to the wall will be a mere 10 ohm's, some 20-30 times less then a classical design and they are quite. I think your amplifiers are at less then 40 ohm's if I'm not mistaken which is still many times lower then the average circuit.

And yes those RF25's just sing and how!

SET12
 
I love reading these...I like to think I'm a pretty smart guy then I read these...but it is still a good read...one day (it's good to have dreams :D)

Bill
 
... Unlike you, I am an avid HT listener. You may be able to do without a sub on stereo music, In fact, I know you can. But in HT your Fortes would not cut the mustard w/o one.

In an extreme sense of volume and excursion perhaps, but not in the sense of quality bass over a broad range.


... The difference here in your opinion is, I do have the North Creeks, and I have stock Fortes so unless you've heard them then only then would be believing or disbelieving be a fair opinion. Like DaveC who has heard them and has heard the Dunlevy's recently.

SET12

The comment about your Fortes in HT w/o a sub wasn't the quality of their bass, it was entirely based on eliminating the LFE channel altogether. You won't hear whatever happens to be on that soundtrack regardless of how well they would sound if you could. Also, to a lesser extent, how low they go for the main tracks. Any of the signal below 30Hz directed to the main channels will not be reproduced.

There is some misuse of the terminology that takes place. LFE is the .1 of 3.1, 5.1 or 7.1. There is a separate LFE track that goes to that .1 channel that you cannot hear on a different channel. It does not down mix with the other channels when you play 5.1 movies in stereo mode. If your amp allows sending signals below a certain frequency to other speakers, it does not include the .1 channel in that. It might be why they called it 5.1 instead of 6. However, you "can" take the signals from other channels below a certain frequency and add them to the LFE channel. You can also have a sub woofer without having it on the .1 channel but you can't have a .1 channel w/o a sub woofer. That is kind of the distinction. You "can" have a sub to augment your main speakers in a stereo set up. Useful for Desktop, satellite or Bookshelf speakers that can't go down to 50Hz. But having a sub, in this configuration, does not have anything to do with LFE. Not sure if I am explaining this well. Even if you could reassign LFE (Which I suppose there could be some systems that allow this) to the front mains, its just too low to hear from them, and requires significantly more power to reproduce them at the same SPL.

My sub on the LFE channel goes down to 15Hz. It is quite accurate but I'm still not producing some of the signal. Yes, there are movies that are known to have LFE tracks as low as 5Hz. But for the 99%er, the cost of reproducing below 15 Hz, accurately, becomes exponentially unaffordable. And the ears at that level are much less sensitive to distinguishing 15 Hz from 5 Hz. So yes, I am missing some of the very lowest sound, but as 99%er, I'm OK with that. Listening to movies w/o the LFE channel is a night and day difference for me. For music, the sub woofer rarely moves. It really doesn't do anything for music tracks that I listen to. You will never miss it on the Fortes listening to music. 30Hz is much more than necessary for music unless you like the music on those "bass destroyer" test cd's. Those might dip below 30 HZ. I can't really speak to that.

As for the North Creeks, this is where your conviction to the noticeable audible improvements, and comments of others, makes me think there may be something to it and willing to take a chance. I can't believe they would hurt anything, so worst case, I blew some money on artwork. Best case, I sing your praises for not giving up on what you feel so strongly about.

Keeping in mind my 99% rule, do you think replacing the iron core on the AP12-500 would be enough or would all inductors on both networks need replacing to really gain the benefit? 10Ga? 8Ga?

Cheers Bud!
 
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My last Klipsch modification endevour was that of converting Cornwalls into a tri-ampable speaker system.To answer the on going question of "Why do people modify Klipsch speakers" for me it is to un-lock the greater potential they have. I personally think PWK stopped short in most of his designs, either due to economics, or what, I do not know. I do know the cabinets were for the most part pretty sound, as were his driver selections. I improved on the networks, driver placements and a few other items and walked away with a stellar sound system. Why did I do it, because it was left incomplete to my way of thinking. He got me in the door with a good, respectable sound system (1980 Cornwalls) and I took i the rest of the way. I feel certain if PWK could hear the results he would approve of the sound- perhaps not the extended costs however.

It is fine tat you would want a bone stock Klipsch speaker system and keep them that way. I also admire the "pioneer" in those that would responsibly advance the art and make them sound their better best. Either way you win with your personal satisfactions well seen to.
DC
 
The comment about your Fortes in HT w/o a sub wasn't the quality of their bass, it was entirely based on eliminating the LFE channel altogether. You won't hear whatever happens to be on that soundtrack regardless of how well they would sound if you could. Also, to a lesser extent, how low they go for the main tracks. Any of the signal below 30Hz directed to the main channels will not be reproduced.

There is some misuse of the terminology that takes place. LFE is the .1 of 3.1, 5.1 or 7.1. There is a separate LFE track that goes to that .1 channel that you cannot hear on a different channel. It does not down mix with the other channels when you play 5.1 movies in stereo mode. If your amp allows sending signals below a certain frequency to other speakers, it does not include the .1 channel in that. It might be why they called it 5.1 instead of 6. However, you "can" take the signals from other channels below a certain frequency and add them to the LFE channel. You can also have a sub woofer without having it on the .1 channel but you can't have a .1 channel w/o a sub woofer. That is kind of the distinction. You "can" have a sub to augment your main speakers in a stereo set up. Useful for Desktop, satellite or Bookshelf speakers that can't go down to 50Hz. But having a sub, in this configuration, does not have anything to do with LFE. Not sure if I am explaining this well. Even if you could reassign LFE (Which I suppose there could be some systems that allow this) to the front mains, its just too low to hear from them, and requires significantly more power to reproduce them at the same SPL.

My sub on the LFE channel goes down to 15Hz. It is quite accurate but I'm still not producing some of the signal. Yes, there are movies that are known to have LFE tracks as low as 5Hz. But for the 99%er, the cost of reproducing below 15 Hz, accurately, becomes exponentially unaffordable. And the ears at that level are much less sensitive to distinguishing 15 Hz from 5 Hz. So yes, I am missing some of the very lowest sound, but as 99%er, I'm OK with that. Listening to movies w/o the LFE channel is a night and day difference for me. For music, the sub woofer rarely moves. It really doesn't do anything for music tracks that I listen to. You will never miss it on the Fortes listening to music. 30Hz is much more than necessary for music unless you like the music on those "bass destroyer" test cd's. Those might dip below 30 HZ. I can't really speak to that.

As for the North Creeks, this is where your conviction to the noticeable audible improvements, and comments of others, makes me think there may be something to it and willing to take a chance. I can't believe they would hurt anything, so worst case, I blew some money on artwork. Best case, I sing your praises for not giving up on what you feel so strongly about.

Keeping in mind my 99% rule, do you think replacing the iron core on the AP12-500 would be enough or would all inductors on both networks need replacing to really gain the benefit? 10Ga? 8Ga?

Cheers Bud!

Thank you for the explanation!

I found this below.

http://www.dolby.com/uploadedFiles/zz-_Shared_Assets/English_PDFs/Professional/38_LFE.pdf

So yes, you are basically correct , but..... not entirely.

"LFE does not equal subwoofer"

"Dolby Digital programs may include a bass-only LFE channel, but this channel
does not correspond directly to a subwoofer output. It is possible for a program to
contain an LFE channel, but a decoder may provide no subwoofer output because
all of the bass information in the program, including the LFE channel, can be
reproduced by the main speakers. The opposite is also true: it is possible for a
program to not contain an LFE channel, yet a decoder may provide a subwoofer
output because some or all of the main speakers are unable to reproduce the bass
information in the program. The difference between the LFE channel and the
subwoofer output is that the LFE channel is used to carry additional bass
information in the Dolby Digital program while the subwoofer output represents
how some or all of the bass information will be reproduced."


I certainly won't dismiss ALK's benefits of ES networks, its quite to the contrary. They offer greater protection to the drivers then typical gentle slopes that I like. And with movies having violent levels in crescendo's ES is a great benefit for them. But IMO music on the other hand can be another story depending on volume and or content.

First and foremost since bass is pretty important to you I would try that first. This where I think you'll get the most bang for your buck.

More over ALK says "do not use solid cores in place of Litz as he says you'll regret it." because of the loses or lower "Q" factor, I beg to differ.

I tried the Litz in my networks and my ears just burned, so I have to wonder about his hearing!

While he is correct in the higher "Q" factor for Litz, it doesn't automatically equate to subjective acceptance. To my ears the Litz I tried sounded harsh and thin with Titanium Tweeters. When I went back to my North Creeks they sounded so much more natural, if fact I get all the time from people "your Forte's don't even sound like horn's" or I get "these are the first Forte's I have ever liked". But this is my experiance and what I prefer.

I think possibly ALK may have a point with Litz as replacing a bunch of Litz's in an ES network with solid cores may have to much loss to sound good. So I may have tendency to go with a simpler network before messing his ES. But I know from first hand listening there is no comparison to iron cores.

I will mention that George has a PHD in physics and spent a good portion of his working career to voicing and design speaker networks and working with all forms of inductors. I clearly have heard all the contrasts that he has mentioned from them. In his FAQ's http://www.northcreekmusic.com/COILS.html

I'm standing in the street, Forte Iron Core Inductor wire is tied to my front door. It was an eye opener for me.

Now just imagine your amplifier trying to control your woofers with wire that's like kite string! 45 feet or more long!

inductorcontrasts007.jpg
inductorcontrasts012.jpg


Cheers

SET12
 
Thank you for the explanation!

I found this below.

http://www.dolby.com/uploadedFiles/zz-_Shared_Assets/English_PDFs/Professional/38_LFE.pdf

So yes, you are basically correct , but..... not entirely.

I guess what you are pointing out is that a person "could" listen to LFE on their mains. What I think I said, and may not have done clearly, is that even if you did have LFE on your mains, you wouldn't hear it. The spec is like 3HZ for LFE. Some movies have been known to go down to 5Hz (U-571). Typically, one can "expect" 20 Hz signals. Yes, I have even seen test CD's where the LFE track was added to the main track. But on the Forte's, w/o a sub, you will not hear it. That's the summary.

Just wanted to show an example of how the SW will help in HT. I did this rather quickly so there are some non-lab anomalies in how it was recorded, but I think overall it shows the idea pretty well.

The blue line is a measurement of some of the dialog in the movie just to reference SPL of the levels of frequencies above the LFE range. It is a different signal entirely from the other lines so don't caught up with it being higher. It's just a reference of the overall movie volume.

The yellow and purple shows the sound in the ending credits (Only) of Paranormal Activity.

The purple is the HT speakers, all of them. I didn't disconnect the other speakers but the mic was about a yard from the right La Scala and Sub-woofer. Scientific enough to show what the Sub adds. I need to tweak the sub some more but it's around 60Hz, I think. Once I adjust it's crossover point it should be more in line with the max SPL of the La Scala.

Anyway, as you can see, the sub adds the range between about 25 Hz to 50Hz that would be absent without it, for this particular movie. The Fortes would only miss about ~7 Hz, but it really depends on the movie. I chose Paranormal Activity since it has such a long duration of the signal... its easy to measure.

Whether the Fortes will handle HT w/o a SW is really not a debatable subject to me. The fact is they don't go low enough to handle the low signals commonly present in today's movies. They go lower than many, but not low enough, imo. I enjoyed movies before I had a sub. My rears go down to about 35 HZ which I was able to direct that range to. But not until after adding the sub did I realize what I was missing. Paranormal Activity limited at 35HZ is nothing like it sounds down to 25 HZ, at SPL of the rest of the movie. Again, for music it adds very little if anything. So it seems to boil down to opinion based as to whether the low levels of a soundtrack are a necessary part of the movie experience. My opinion is that they are. That's kind of why the director included them. It adds a level of realism to me. If you don't think so that's fine. Difficult for me to understand, but its completely a matter of your taste.

I have no issue with the bass of the La Scal'a, for music. I have yet to hear any cleaner. The sub-woofer handles any bass in movies that the La Scala's don't reach to. As I said, it's a good sub that is quite articulate. It just doesn't go all the way down to 3HZ per the spec.

paranormalb.jpg


Wanted to add one more image so I edited the post. Hope nobody minds. This is a 5 minute sampling of Battle LA with and without a sub. I have it set to record peak levels. As you can see, there is plenty of material all the way down to 20Hz. I have my speakers crossing to the sub at 60 HZ in this image.



I'm probably gonna give the North Creeks a shot. Are those 8Ga in your pic? It looks like you have two of them. Would I just need to replace the iron core one?
 
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I guess what you are pointing out is that a person "could" listen to LFE on their mains. What I think I said, and may not have done clearly, is that even if you did have LFE on your mains, you wouldn't hear it. The spec is like 3HZ for LFE. Some movies have been known to go down to 5Hz (U-571). Typically, one can "expect" 20 Hz signals. Yes, I have even seen test CD's where the LFE track was added to the main track. But on the Forte's, w/o a sub, you will not hear it. That's the summary.

I'm probably gonna give the North Creeks a shot. Are those 8Ga in your pic? It looks like you have two of them. Would I just need to replace the iron core one?

OK, you got me on movies :yes:

BTW that upper spec is 120hz and the lower is 3hz "LFE" is a band-limited low frequency effects channel.

Anything below 15 hz is typically just not heard by humans especially as you age but it can be felt of course.

In that case some people may want to think about something like this I have seen this before I think in Popular Science Magazine. http://www.tvtower.com/low_frequency_effects.html

The LFE butt kicker2 shown with a phone for size.
LFE_size.jpg


Specifications
Dimensions 5.375" high x 5.5" wide, oval
Frequency Response: 5 - 200 Hz
Weight: 11 lbs., 5 kg.
Nominal Impedance: 4 ohms
Power Handling: 400 watts min. / 1500 watts max.

The whole idea is to get the motion vertical and it seems likely as the site points out the thing is bolted to your sofa. The site above was using a QSC PLX-3402 a PA amplifier that is very compact. And can deliver up to 3000 watts depending on configuration. The amplifier uses a switching power supply so it makes it compact and light like 21lbs. And IMO perfect for this kind of use.

It looks to be that you can find these QSC amplifiers used for $200 even.

I have say this is very tempting for movies as The LFE butt kicker2 sells for under $400.

BFSHEEP thank you for the education, I think we both have got something out of this discussion of subs.

As to the inductors Solens 10AWG are $86 each http://www.solen.ca/pub/cms_nf_catalogue_fiche.php?id=748&recherche=&numRows=&manufacturiers=&niveau1=1&niveau2=4&niveau3=24

I had heard North Creek had a fire! So I went looking and found these photo's virtually everything was destroyed. Fortunately no one was hurt and they are insured. They said a new start up should be by May.

http://www.northcreekmusic.com/Fire/The_Fire_at_North_Creek.html

North Creek 8AWG in 2.25mH would be custom and therefore is the 2.5mH price. Which would be $230/each plus shipping cost. I know some one that is changing his system and and has a pair of North Creek 2.5mH 8AWG's for $400/pair shipped, they 1 yr old, if interested PM me.

North Creek pricing for 10AWG is $135 here is there list http://www.northcreekmusic.com/NorthCreekCoilPrices.PDF

But really if you wanted a taste like DeanG (top poster at Klipsch) experienced here being a 99%er I don't think you'd be disappointed by going with Solens and Solen is what ALK uses anyway.

"I didn't expect to ever come back to this thread again, but have had a surprising experience. I finished my ALKs a few days ago, and as part of the build I went with some 10AWG Solen air cores which I mounted on separate boards because of their size. The DCR of the 10AWG air cores is .16, the same as the Erse Super Q steel laminates I've been using from Parts Express. FWIW, there's a pretty big difference in the bass. After an hour or so of listening I put some Super Q's into the circuit to see what it would sound like, and though still very good, sounded lean in comparison, and not nearly as full bodied and tight as the air cores. I've had the beasts laying around for a long time, and I'm glad I finally found use for them. I didn't expect to hear a difference, wasn't even listening for it, but it was pretty obvious. "

Thanks again!

SET12
 
OK, you got me on movies :yes:
Anything below 15 hz is typically just not heard by humans especially as you age but it can be felt of course.

True Dat! Which is why I felt 15Hz was plenty.

The whole idea is to get the motion vertical and it seems likely as the site points out the thing is bolted to your sofa.

I've seen these but never experienced them. One thing kind of unique about subs, at least the one I have, is that during scenes where it has a lot of activity, I can feel it blowing on me ten feet away. It's like "Did someone turn a fan on?" I believe it could blow a candle out 6 feet away. It is really moving the air. The vibrato gizzmo will vibrate the furniture. But it won't give you the air pressure you can feel on your drums, as though something actually exploded in the room. Even if one can't hear it, they can feel the sound pressure change in their ears.

North Creek 8AWG in 2.25mH would be custom and therefore is the 2.5mH price. Which would be $230/each plus shipping cost. I know some one that is changing his system and and has a pair of North Creek 2.5mH 8AWG's for $400/pair shipped, they 1 yr old, if interested PM me.
Thanks for the insider info. I will probably take some time to listen to the ALK networks before modding them. I still hear "Robot" warning me so I just need to take it slow. I have two other speaker projects after I get these updated to work on, and then I can come back to these.

But really if you wanted a taste like DeanG (top poster at Klipsch) experienced here being a 99%er I don't think you'd be disappointed by going with Solens and Solen is what ALK uses anyway.

ALK uses SONICAPS on the crossovers you purchase from him that he builds. On the DIY kits he supplies a mix of Sonicap and Solen on what he refers to as the less critical sections. He may have a few kit that he terms low budget that are all Solen.
 
True Dat! Which is why I felt 15Hz was plenty.

I've seen these but never experienced them. One thing kind of unique about subs, at least the one I have, is that during scenes where it has a lot of activity, I can feel it blowing on me ten feet away. It's like "Did someone turn a fan on?" I believe it could blow a candle out 6 feet away. It is really moving the air. The vibrato gizzmo will vibrate the furniture. But it won't give you the air pressure you can feel on your drums, as though something actually exploded in the room. Even if one can't hear it, they can feel the sound pressure change in their ears.

I use to collect movie soundtracks and still do to a point.

I don't doubt that 15hz is enough, Blowing air? Drums?

On "Master Commander" my whole 18ft wide wall floor to ceiling plus beyond the side walls get energized from my Fortes pressurizing the room you can feel this in your chest and in the seat of your pants. This something that a stock pair of Fortes just can not do.

This can certainly happen above 30hz, there really is a lot from 30hz on up, you have mid bass and upper bass, lower mids and so on. They all can take on weight and body.

But the real fun of these modified Fortes is the ability to reproduce space and project impact even coming from the side walls. I just think that you have not heard what can really be done in the region of 30hz to 700hz like what the Fortes are doing. But it really goes hand in hand with your associated electronics as well.

15hz to 30hz, I think between the gizzmo added to my system and what I have the Fortes doing would be more than enough to be convincing. Not that I would do this anytime soon, I'm very satisfied with what I have for bass. I'm not much into HT sound. In reality I'm more interested reproduction of recorded space, spatial ques and imaging in general and mostly music.But I do like dynamic impact which I have, just not to 20hz.

Thanks for the insider info. I will probably take some time to listen to the ALK networks before modding them. I still hear "Robot" warning me so I just need to take it slow. I have two other speaker projects after I get these updated to work on, and then I can come back to these.

I know the game, we all have priorities.

ALK uses SONICAPS on the crossovers you purchase from him that he builds. On the DIY kits he supplies a mix of Sonicap and Solen on what he refers to as the less critical sections. He may have a few kit that he terms low budget that are all Solen.

Nope you missed my point, I wrote nothing about caps here, read again "DeanG" I meant Solen Inductors. They are a decent buy.

But as far as caps go this guy here does an outstanding job at rating caps subjectively. http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html his comments are pretty much spot on IMO. He's a good starting point for many people.

Solen Caps make excellent power supply caps for tube gear. I do use them in my low frequency part of my networks. But nowhere else.

Sonicap's are far from my first choice as I'm pretty spoiled and not likely in the same league as a Duelund if you read about them on the listed site. I do like the Mundorf "M" Cap's which I recently heard again, he gave the Sonicaps a higher rating though!

But the Duelund's are for the 1% crowd I guess :D

SET12
 
Nope you missed my point, I wrote nothing about caps here, read again "DeanG" I meant Solen Inductors. They are a decent buy...


SET12

Yep. I sure did completely misread it.

Those C" Coils are probably more in my near future. I will use the ones from the ALK on one of the speaker projects awaiting me. That's what I plan to use some of the parts out of the old AL' networks for, as well. I'm getting quite a collection of parts. For experimenting, even the low end coils start to add up if you don't have them on hand, and I need a good variety to have any success. Right now I'm having some real problems with a pair if Infinity Column II's that need a complete network redesign. I'm gonna start off by just putting the AL networks (with a small mod entailing removing two circuit paths that Al had recommended) on them and see what I get. My AL's were some of the worst out of the factory. They actually have the steel bolts going through the inductors to keep them in place. Now that I think about it, I have three projects in the queue.

I see an opportunity to get back on subject of the original thread so I'm going for it... Why do I mod Klipsch... another reason is so I can use the parts on other speakers. "HandMeDowns". :)
 
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