LAB3
AK Member
Out of curiosity, when you do the "slow C" measurement while watching a movie and are reading 95-100 steady, what does the Yamaha show as reference level? +15? +20? The YPAO setup, if you use it, will give you a pretty close approximation to the actual SPL you are listening at. Once calibrated "0" reference level is 80dB. On the screen it will show +15 etc. That would mean 95dB. Obviously the source material will cause a bit of variance in the actual SPL. But its pretty close. I limit mine to +15 but default is +20 I believe. I don't know if you can increase it further from that, but you might look into that if you want it even louder.
I have the same meter you do from back in 93'. I now have the TrueRTA system on a laptop when I am wanting to measure sound levels and other characteristics, but for just getting a quick SPL level that meter should work OK if you understand its limitations and what it actually measures.
If you are measuring to determine components to purchase, you really should not base that decision on the RS meter. Both weightings on this meter are only accurate to about 10KHz and they were designed to follow the curve of the human ear in relation to sensitivity to damage at specific frequencies. It is used for purposes of ear health to comply with OSHA guidelines. I think most people can hear well to ~15-16KHz, just to give an idea of what it doesn't measure. Neither A" or C" weighting is truly flat, which you would want for audio analysis. If I remember correctly, RS marketed these under the premise they cold be used for HI-FI analysis and correction etc. There is even a page in the booklet describing it. But, they really are not up to that task. Kind of misleading IMO. But I've a learned a lot since then so it may have been my lack of understanding when I bought it.
This explains A,B and C ratings better than I ever could:
http://www.hearforever.org/tools-to-learn/sound-source-a-and-c-weighted-noise-measurements
My summation is this:
Higher and lower are such subjective terms so I wanted to nail down the actual levels for these defined by OSHA. 100dB is the magic number when weighting SPL. Sound at any frequency above 100dB causes the same damage, or should I say, has the potential of damage if listened to over a certain period of time, which is why the curve is more like a flat line. And that is how the "stay times" are derived. The page you refer to in our booklet, I believe, is incorrect. It should have indicated that you would switch to C" weighting at 100dB.
It depends on what your purpose is. If you are concerned about damage from watching a movie too loud, then:
-If you listen at 100dB or above use the C" rating "slow" response.
-If you listen at <100dB use the A" rating "slow" response.
-Since you seem to be right at the division between the two, I would measure C".
If you just want to get a pretty good idea of the average actual SPL then use the C" weighting since it is flatter up to 10KHz.
If you want to measure peaks, I think you already know this, but switch to "fast". Peaks aren't generally measured for purposes of stay times but may be of personal interest.
If you are analyzing speaker performance, don't use the RS meter. It really wasn't made for that. You would use unweighted or Z" weighting which is a flat 20Hz-20Khz frequency response for analyzing speakers.
The A" rating is louder because of the curve used. Again, it is not measuring actual SPL as closely as the C" rating does. If you look at he chart it actually registers about 3dB higher than actual between 1KHz and 1.6KHz due to the extra sensitivity of the ear to damage in that range. So reading higher on your meter would translate to less stay time. But since you are at the 100dB level, you would go by the C" weighting for stay time.
Thanks for the info and link. I will test all this tomorrow when the wife is at work and I can rerun YPAO it been a year or so(and moved the settingsfor more center and rears) and Mike will be here with his newer meter. For movies with the wife I use C slow to be safe and same for music. I have never gone to +20 on my display my ears would bleed. -10 is 100 DB steady today C slow on CD music. I think + 6 one time on a soft song on my R2R is as far as I have pushed my Yamaha. One or two songs and I turn it down.
