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Willsenton R8 vs the classics

Gigantic

A big, big love
Has anyone done a comparison of the Willsenton R8 against classic tube integrated and power amps of the 60’s from the likes of Dynaco, Harmon Kardon, Fisher, Scott, et al? I’m curious to see how they stand up against a well sorted Dynaco St-70, Fisher X-202-B or an HH Scott 222B. Is anyone else curious as well?
 
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would be interesting to see numbers and actually hear it. For the price if its competitive that makes it pretty appealing. Hard to buy and sort a vintage amp of equivalent power for the 1500 bucks that a brand new one of these costs, plus you get a remote control.
 
would be interesting to see numbers and actually hear it. For the price if its competitive that makes it pretty appealing. Hard to buy and sort a vintage amp of equivalent power for the 1500 bucks that a brand new one of these costs, plus you get a remote control.

yeah, unrestored Dynaco ST-70’s are averaging $700-$800, restored versions around $1200-$1500, which at $1400, makes the Willsenton very price competitive. I’ve not seen a bad review of the amp yet, but I’m curious to see how it stacks up against vintage offerings around that price point.
 
yeah, unrestored Dynaco ST-70’s are averaging $700-$800, restored versions around $1200-$1500, which at $1400, makes the Willsenton very price competitive. I’ve not seen a bad review of the amp yet, but I’m curious to see how it stacks up against vintage offerings around that price point.
I am probably going to go the vintage or reproduction route.
 
I have since seen a few poor reviews of Willsenton amps and feel like I’ve dodged a bullet by not getting one.
How do you like the DL 110? That is the other modification to my system I was considering. How well does the Skoll run it, being a HOMC? Also, thinking that I will go the route of the Dynaco St 70 for an additional tube amp.
 
How do you like the DL 110? That is the other modification to my system I was considering. How well does the Skoll run it, being a HOMC? Also, thinking that I will go the route of the Dynaco St 70 for an additional tube amp.
If you want to experience the EL-34, an Eico HF-87 replica is an amp worth considering. I built one using modern iron with excellent results.
 
How do you like the DL 110? That is the other modification to my system I was considering. How well does the Skoll run it, being a HOMC? Also, thinking that I will go the route of the Dynaco St 70 for an additional tube amp.
I like it a lot. I also have a Ortofon 2M Blue Cart, which has a similar cost and I find the Denon to be warmer and more sensitive, which excellent low end response. It matches well with the Skoll.
 
The Willsenton R8 has gone to a second iteration in 2024 which has somewhat better components than the first gen model (the earlier version had really cheap resistors that had insulation that were chipped. The newer version appears to use the same brand of resistors but none were chipped). It still has some issues, notably the volume control is too sensitive. The amp gets super loud at the 9:00 position. Also, the amp is quite sensitive to noisy 6SL7 tubes. If you install a noisy 6SL7 tube, the volume control makes a scratchy noise when you adjust the volume, why I don't know. The odd thing is that these same "noisy" tubes are usually dead silent in other amps.

The amplifier always defaults to Input 1 when powered on, which is a headache if you use other inputs often. The stock tubes are mediocre. Surprisingly, the tubes in my amplifier was closely matched. I purchased another R8 and was somewhat surprised that the OEM KT88s were obviously from different manufacturers, one set has Shuguang tubes and the other appeared to be Psvane. Note that the OEM tubes appears to be the cheapest tubes they make, selling for about $140/quad in China. They don't sound bad but they tend to be pretty bright with hardly any bass. Stepping up to more expensive tubes make a remarkable improvement in sound.

The biggest headache for the Willsenton (as well as the Muzishare) amps is their crappy bias potentiometers. The OEM pots are known to fail and when they do, it will usually take out a tube as it red plates as well as damage the amplifier. I strongly recommend that owners replace the OEM pots with either Vishay or Bourns 20K pots. It is not that difficult if you have soldering skills. I had two pots fail, one in the R8 and the other in the Muzishare X7. Luckily, I was able to power off the Willsenton before the tube red plated too long. Unfortunately, the X7 took out an expensive Gold Lion KT88. If you peruse Amazon reviews, you will see an alarming amount of buyers reporting their amp went up in smoke, including the newer updated model.

I also have a 22yo Conrad-Johnson MV60 Power amp and a matching Conrad-Johson pre-amp (can't remember model number) and can say the R8 comes pretty close to the CR sound. The CR is on it's last legs, the chassis and amp is rusted pretty badly and occasionally blows fuses.

The R8 originally sold for about $800 when released several years ago and the price is now $1500. Who knows how much it's going to be when the tariffs jack up the prices. Amazon still sells them for $1450 while stock lasts, I see some Chinese sellers are now asking almost $2700 for the R8. At that price, i would look elsewhere. Another factor is that vacuum tubes are getting more expensive, good vintage tubes are getting scarcer as inventory dries up from demand. When I bought my R8 I was able to find Sylvania 6SL7W tubes for $30 and decent vintage EL34s for $60, now these same tubes are going double to triple that. Current production tubes don't sound as good and also have a shorter tube life. The Russian manufactured tubes have not updated their design since the original release. Only China is making newer designed tubes and the so sound pretty good, but their QC and reliability is suspect. More alarming is that their tubes are not sold as matched sets (even though they claim to be matching with accompanying "certificates", when i measured the tubes, their numbers are all over the place. IMHO, Psvane is notable for poor quality and bad specced tubes).
 
The biggest headache for the Willsenton (as well as the Muzishare) amps is their crappy bias potentiometers. The OEM pots are known to fail and when they do, it will usually take out a tube as it red plates as well as damage the amplifier. I strongly recommend that owners replace the OEM pots with either Vishay or Bourns 20K pots. It is not that difficult if you have soldering skills. I had two pots fail, one in the R8 and the other in the Muzishare X7. Luckily, I was able to power off the Willsenton before the tube red plated too long. Unfortunately, the X7 took out an expensive Gold Lion KT88. If you peruse Amazon reviews, you will see an alarming amount of buyers reporting their amp went up in smoke, including the newer updated model.
The addition of a resistor on the bias boards will protect the output tubes in the case of a pot shorting. I think the V2 R8 has these. I haven't had an issue but plan to replace the pots anyway.
 
The safety resistors on my Muzishare X7 did not protect the tubes, but there was no smoking or damage to the transformers or any resistors. The resistors seems to have worked in protecting the red plated tube but I am not certain if it was the resistor or because I saw the red plating start and immediately shut down the amp...
 
The safety resistors on my Muzishare X7 did not protect the tubes, but there was no smoking or damage to the transformers or any resistors. The resistors seems to have worked in protecting the red plated tube but I am not certain if it was the resistor or because I saw the red plating start and immediately shut down the amp...
Ouch!
 
The Willsenton R8 has gone to a second iteration in 2024 which has somewhat better components than the first gen model (the earlier version had really cheap resistors that had insulation that were chipped. The newer version appears to use the same brand of resistors but none were chipped). It still has some issues, notably the volume control is too sensitive. The amp gets super loud at the 9:00 position. Also, the amp is quite sensitive to noisy 6SL7 tubes. If you install a noisy 6SL7 tube, the volume control makes a scratchy noise when you adjust the volume, why I don't know. The odd thing is that these same "noisy" tubes are usually dead silent in other amps.

The amplifier always defaults to Input 1 when powered on, which is a headache if you use other inputs often. The stock tubes are mediocre. Surprisingly, the tubes in my amplifier was closely matched. I purchased another R8 and was somewhat surprised that the OEM KT88s were obviously from different manufacturers, one set has Shuguang tubes and the other appeared to be Psvane. Note that the OEM tubes appears to be the cheapest tubes they make, selling for about $140/quad in China. They don't sound bad but they tend to be pretty bright with hardly any bass. Stepping up to more expensive tubes make a remarkable improvement in sound.

The biggest headache for the Willsenton (as well as the Muzishare) amps is their crappy bias potentiometers. The OEM pots are known to fail and when they do, it will usually take out a tube as it red plates as well as damage the amplifier. I strongly recommend that owners replace the OEM pots with either Vishay or Bourns 20K pots. It is not that difficult if you have soldering skills. I had two pots fail, one in the R8 and the other in the Muzishare X7. Luckily, I was able to power off the Willsenton before the tube red plated too long. Unfortunately, the X7 took out an expensive Gold Lion KT88. If you peruse Amazon reviews, you will see an alarming amount of buyers reporting their amp went up in smoke, including the newer updated model.

I also have a 22yo Conrad-Johnson MV60 Power amp and a matching Conrad-Johson pre-amp (can't remember model number) and can say the R8 comes pretty close to the CR sound. The CR is on it's last legs, the chassis and amp is rusted pretty badly and occasionally blows fuses.

The R8 originally sold for about $800 when released several years ago and the price is now $1500. Who knows how much it's going to be when the tariffs jack up the prices. Amazon still sells them for $1450 while stock lasts, I see some Chinese sellers are now asking almost $2700 for the R8. At that price, i would look elsewhere. Another factor is that vacuum tubes are getting more expensive, good vintage tubes are getting scarcer as inventory dries up from demand. When I bought my R8 I was able to find Sylvania 6SL7W tubes for $30 and decent vintage EL34s for $60, now these same tubes are going double to triple that. Current production tubes don't sound as good and also have a shorter tube life. The Russian manufactured tubes have not updated their design since the original release. Only China is making newer designed tubes and the so sound pretty good, but their QC and reliability is suspect. More alarming is that their tubes are not sold as matched sets (even though they claim to be matching with accompanying "certificates", when i measured the tubes, their numbers are all over the place. IMHO, Psvane is notable for poor quality and bad specced tubes).
This is why I am leaning towards actually rebuilding an older ST 70. Tons of information about issues, everything is available to rebuild them, and just simpler. I can run it off of my existing pre amp, which has an extra set of RCA jacks/audio port. So I can just switch between solid state (Schiit Vidar) and the ST-70 without issues.

Right now I have a cheaper Chi Fi EL 34 amp, the Boyurange EL 34. It sounds good, but there is real room for improvement in the tube game. Think starting fresh with a better, known design might be my best route.

I also have the philosophy of as little in the audio path as reasonably possible and as simple as reasonably possible.
 
This is why I am leaning towards actually rebuilding an older ST 70. Tons of information about issues, everything is available to rebuild them, and just simpler. I can run it off of my existing pre amp, which has an extra set of RCA jacks/audio port. So I can just switch between solid state (Schiit Vidar) and the ST-70 without issues.

Right now I have a cheaper Chi Fi EL 34 amp, the Boyurange EL 34. It sounds good, but there is real room for improvement in the tube game. Think starting fresh with a better, known design might be my best route.

I also have the philosophy of as little in the audio path as reasonably possible and as simple as reasonably possible.
You can't go wrong with an ST-70. R8 is no match especially if you use good iron in the 70.
 
You can't go wrong with an ST-70. R8 is no match especially if you use good iron in the 70.
Yeah, the idea that 350,000 ST 70s have been aold in the S, compared to maybe a few thousand R8's if that. A whole lot more is known about it. I think it will sound even better than the R8, and I am in this for the long haul. My main goal is listening to music, not being an audio collector of some sort. If this breaks in five or ten years, I am much more likely to be able to fix the R8. ]

Also, good tech gurus are dying off, and I am much, much more likely to be able to fix a Dynaco ST 70 when it inevitably has some issue, as a tube amp probably will at some point.
 
She'll out the $25 and subscribe. I've seen some very nice deals.on restored ST-70's under $1000 in bartertown here on AK. I've seen a few go for as little as around $700-$800 restored. They pop up from time to time. You could start a WTB thread in bartertown and someone may have one they want to sell.
 
She'll out the $25 and subscribe. I've seen some very nice deals.on restored ST-70's under $1000 in bartertown here on AK. I've seen a few go for as little as around $700-$800 restored. They pop up from time to time. You could start a WTB thread in bartertown and someone may have one they want to sell.
That's impressive. I may well do that.
 
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