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Wipe on poly coat

Lavane

Lavane

Lunatic Member
I've never used it before, but decided to give it a try. It is definitely more work, but so far I like the finish. After finish sanding, ending with 1500 grit, I put the first coat on using 1500 grit sand paper. This sealed the wood pretty good. I just finished putting the second coat on today. It dries fast and even after the second coat it feels very smooth. I plan on putting a third coat on tommarow and sand it again. Then a last coat and finishing it with buffing polish. I wish I had tried this years ago. It would be a great way to refinish speaker cabinets. I'm building a Maple table. I used pipe fittings to tie the legs together.
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1500 grit is about 1280 grit too fine for sanding before the first coat of finish. It could lead to poor adhesion. I would also suggest against applying finish using sandpaper you are just going to get grit in the finish. Use a high quality brush. Some wipe on poly can also be applied with a lint free rag. Sand between coats with 400 grit maximum.
 
Lazarus Long said:
1500 grit is about 1280 grit too fine for sanding before the first coat of finish. It could lead to poor adhesion. I would also suggest against applying finish using sandpaper you are just going to get grit in the finish. Use a high quality brush. Some wipe on poly can also be applied with a lint free rag. Sand between coats with 400 grit maximum.
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The wipe on poly is pretty thin. It soakes into the wood pretty good. I used a 1500 sanding pad with the first coat, very fine dust helped fill and seal in with the first coat and I can't see or feel any thing. After sanding the first coat wet I wiped excess off before the poly set up. It was smooth after that first coat. I am using lint free cloth. I probably did go to far standing before applying the first coat though. But it did soak in really well. I'll probably do things a little differently when I refinish a pair of speakers I have. Since this table will be used it will end up with a thicker finish.
 
Have you finished sanded to 1000 or 1500 before applying the poly? If not, 1500 grit is like using paper to spread the poly and really serves no purpose. If you have finish sanded with 1000 or 1500, then the wood will have trouble absorbing the oil/poly.

One technique that woodworkers advocate is to finish sand with about 220 to 320 grit. Then use 320 or 400 grit to apply an oil (or poly) finish. The sanding during application creates fine dust that fills the pores, making for a smoother finish. Using 1500 grit after 320 will not produce enough dust to fill any pores. After the wood is filled, subsequent coats are put on with a brush or cloth.
 
RTally said:
Have you finished sanded to 1000 or 1500 before applying the poly? If not, 1500 grit is like using paper to spread the poly and really serves no purpose. If you have finish sanded with 1000 or 1500, then the wood will have trouble absorbing the oil/poly.

One technique that woodworkers advocate is to finish sand with about 220 to 320 grit. Then use 320 or 400 grit to apply an oil (or poly) finish. The sanding during application creates fine dust that fills the pores, making for a smoother finish. Using 1500 grit after 320 will not produce enough dust to fill any pores. After the wood is filled, subsequent coats are put on with a brush or cloth.
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You would use that technique with a penetrating oil finish, such as Danish oil, Tung oil, Linseed oil, etc.. Those are not film finishes and you wipe off the excess... Wipe on poly is a film finish, meaning it is a film that dries on top of the wood... I suppose you could apply the first coat by wetsanding, but this is a film finish and you will need to sand back that coat to get back to a smooth surface. Generally you would do any grain filling prior to applying a film finish. Grain filling is totally unnecessary anyway...
 
RTally said:
Have you finished sanded to 1000 or 1500 before applying the poly? If not, 1500 grit is like using paper to spread the poly and really serves no purpose. If you have finish sanded with 1000 or 1500, then the wood will have trouble absorbing the oil/poly.

One technique that woodworkers advocate is to finish sand with about 220 to 320 grit. Then use 320 or 400 grit to apply an oil (or poly) finish. The sanding during application creates fine dust that fills the pores, making for a smoother finish. Using 1500 grit after 320 will not produce enough dust to fill any pores. After the wood is filled, subsequent coats are put on with a brush or cloth.
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Good.l info for.l the next project. I did use the sandpaper in hope's of filling in pores. I am using a cloth. On e all the coats are applied I will.be using a buying polish with a cloth.
 
Lazarus Long said:
You would use that technique with a penetrating oil finish, such as Danish oil, Tung oil, Linseed oil, etc.. Those are not film finishes and you wipe off the excess... Wipe on poly is a film finish, meaning it is a film that dries on top of the wood... I suppose you could apply the first coat by wetsanding, but this is a film finish and you will need to sand back that coat to get back to a smooth surface. Generally you would do any grain filling prior to applying a film finish. Grain filling is totally unnecessary anyway...
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I only used sand paper to apply the first coat. Then sanded after it dried.
I've used different oils and waxes in the past. This is the first time using wipe on polyurethane. I can see ill be doing things differently next time.
 
I use pour-n-wipe polly all the time. In the 40 years I'v been in the finishing trade I'v never applied any finishes, waxes or oils with sand paper. There is also no need to sand raw wood with paper finer than 150-180 grit. 220 is good for sanding primer and 320 for sanding between clear coat, lacquers and so forth. When I use papers that are 400 to 1200 grit wet and dry, the finish is already done and I'm wet sanding prior to polishing the finish.

Using very fine paper on raw wood you are effectively polishing the wood, and yes that can cause problems with absorbency of stains and finishes.

I don't know the brand polly your using but I would stop at no more than three coats. What is nice about it like on your table. You can use the table as a kitchen table, after you start getting ware in a year, simply wash the table, scotch bright it and wipe another coat on it.
 
4-2-7 said:
I use pour-n-wipe polly all the time. In the 40 years I'v been in the finishing trade I'v never applied any finishes, waxes or oils with sand paper. There is also no need to sand raw wood with paper finer than 150-180 grit. 220 is good for sanding primer and 320 for sanding between clear coat, lacquers and so forth. When I use papers that are 400 to 1200 grit wet and dry, the finish is already done and I'm wet sanding prior to polishing the finish.

Using very fine paper on raw wood you are effectively polishing the wood, and yes that can cause problems with absorbency of stains and finishes.

I don't know the brand polly your using but I would stop at no more than three coats. What is nice about it like on your table. You can use the table as a kitchen table, after you start getting ware in a year, simply wash the table, scotch bright it and wipe another coat on it.
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I will wet-sand danish oil. start with 220 for the first application, then progress up to 600 grit for subsequent applications. This is a process that is reserved for high end pieces. I also always sand fine cabinetry to 220. If you are spraying commercial wood finishes, you can see swirl marks from 150-180 grit in the finish.
 
4-2-7 said:
Not if you sand it right, you do remember I'm a professional finisher don't you?
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Are you doing the final sanding pass by hand? That’s the only way to avoid swirls from an RO sander using 150-180 grit.

This is my finishing schedule for stain or clear coat.

Sand 150-180-220 RO sander
Hand sand 220 to remove RO marks.
stain
Seal coat
Sand 400 grit.
clear coat
Sand 400 grit.
Final coat.
 
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Lazarus Long said:
Are you doing the final sanding pass by hand? That’s the only way to avoid swirls from an RO sander using 150-180 grit.
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Sometimes I'll do a little hand sanding after a machine, but not that often, unless I have a lot of areas the machine cant get to. Again, I finish all day every day for a living at least a 1000 peaces of furniture a year as well as on site architectural work. Most my work is from high end designers having custom furniture made for all the top homes being furnished, or built around the country. But also old that I refinish and restore, I really do work on a very wide range of furniture and different finishes.

Do you think they want to see sanding swirl in their $50,000 and $70,000 pieces of furniture?
Do you not think I can see? and if I did see issues would not correct it to produce the best finish these people are looking for?

Anyway this is why I don't respond to finishing threads much anymore on the site. Can't give professional advice without friction form others that don't do this for a living.
 
4-2-7 said:
Sometimes I'll do a little hand sanding after a machine, but not that often, unless I have a lot of areas the machine cant get to. Again, I finish all day every day for a living at least a 1000 peaces of furniture a year as well as on site architectural work. Most my work is from high end designers having custom furniture made for all the top homes being furnished, or built around the country.

Do you think they want to see sanding swirl in their $50,000 and $70,000 pieces of furniture?
Do you not think I can see? and if I did see issues would not correct it to produce the best finish these people are looking for?

Anyway this is why I don't respond to finishing threads much anymore on the site. Can't give professional advice without friction form others that don't do this for a living.
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well no, I don’t think you can see then. You’re not the only professional on the board dude! I have millions of dollars worth of cabinetry and furniture out there. Stuff that I built. Not large scale factory BS either. The real deal handcrafted high end woodworking. I’m probably pickier than you are.. If you are sanding to 180 with an RO you have swirl marks! No getting around it. You shine an inspection light at the proper angle and you will see it. It’s there. You can get away with it depending on what you’re spraying. It’s stained, no way. If it’s a clear coat, you will be able to see it, but most people won’t notice until you point it out. Painted with CV or other wood finish, you will be able to see a stray swirl here and there under lights. Whether or not anyone notices once installed is another question. I also know what I’m talking about. You argue with me if you want. But the best pneumatic sanders leave swirl and the best electrics do as well. I use dynabrade pneumatic and festool electric sanders.
 
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Lazarus Long said:
well no, I don’t think you can see then. You’re not the only professional on the board dude! I have millions of dollars worth of cabinetry and furniture out there. Stuff that I built. Not large scale factory BS either. The real deal handcrafted high end woodworking. I’m probably pickier than you are.. If you are sanding to 180 with an RO you have swirl marks! No getting around it. You shine an inspection light at the proper angle and you will see it. It’s there. You can get away with it depending on what you’re spraying. It’s stained, no way. If it’s a clear coat, you will be able to see it, but most people won’t notice until you point it out. Painted with CV or other wood finish, you will be able to see a stray swirl here and there under lights. Whether or not anyone notices once installed is another question. I also know what I’m talking about. You argue with me if you want. But the best pneumatic sanders leave swirl and the best electrics do as well. I use dynabrade pneumatic and festool electric sanders.
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But your not a finisher. You do cabinetry, we've talked on the phone when you where out of work remember?

Anyway, have a good day, don't tell me how to finish wood work and I won't tell you how to build it unless I got to work on it. ;) Really though I'm lucky to have a couple great furniture makers around here, I get a lot of different cabinet makers that are not that great and I have to make it look good.
 
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