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X202B time capsule

Source is optional. keep the volume down and all the controls centered. Speakers or dummy loads are Mandatory.
 
Update! The guy that sold me this amp agreed on the price I said I would pay for the matching R200 tuner. Included are some type of antenna, original box, and exra tubes. He thinks the manuals are around somewhere and will try to include them :thmbsp:
 
Congrats Steve, you guys CA have all the nice stuff, those Choruses should sound nice now! My 202B went south temporarily yesterday.. Yours looks great.
 
I have the 202 running on the 40 watt bulb this morning, everything good so far. Took the bottom off and took some pictures, looks like a virgin to me. :D

Oh, and didn't my dim bulb tester come out nice? :yes:
 

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Well that is one sweet looking Fisher! And YES!!! Grab that matching tuner.

Hey -were close by ---Next time I'm your way -I'd love to pop in for a listen.
James
 
Well that is one sweet looking Fisher! And YES!!! Grab that matching tuner.

Hey -were close by ---Next time I'm your way -I'd love to pop in for a listen.
James

Not a problem, your always welcome to stop by. The lazer temp tester is working great!
 
Couple of questions here.........
What do the multicolored lights stand for on the front panel ? I looked at one on another thread and could not figure out what the lettering stood for.
What is the watts per channel at 8 ohms?

I have a Sansui 1000A in beautiful condition -but I gotta tell you --that Fisher is sweet looking and I'll bet with those 7591's it can really do a number.
 
Couple of questions here.........
What do the multicolored lights stand for on the front panel ? I looked at one on another thread and could not figure out what the lettering stood for.
What is the watts per channel at 8 ohms?

I have a Sansui 1000A in beautiful condition -but I gotta tell you --that Fisher is sweet looking and I'll bet with those 7591's it can really do a number.

I'm pretty sure they rate it at 40 watts per channel. The jewels light up to let you know what mode it is in and that you have active output.
 
It's ALIVE!

I powered it it up, and all seems good. Temps on the can caps are running around 98 to 99 degrees, output transformers are around 108 degrees.

I had them hooked to my minimus 7's for the gradual power up, then I hooked them to my Chorus 1's. The sound is amazing, no pop, snaps, hums or issues. It sounds as if it was new out of the box, well, not that I know what that sounds like. :D But you get the picture, I'm extremely pleased! :music: :thmbsp:
 

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Can you tell if the can caps are only getting warm due to proximity to tubes or transformers? If not from tubes/transformers, that seems kind of hot to me, but I don't know what's considered normal range.
 
Can you tell if the can caps are only getting warm due to proximity to tubes or transformers? If not from tubes/transformers, that seems kind of hot to me, but I don't know what's considered normal range.

The chassis next to the caps is reading the same so I would think it is all working properly.
 
JHS -- The front panel lamp array signifies channel operation as designated by the Stereo/Mono mode selector switch. A and B stand for channel A and B inputs, while L and R stand for Left and Right outputs. The center red (C) lamp is normally dim to act as a power indicator, and goes bright when the powered center channel speaker output is activate to any of its selectable level settings other than "off".

40 watts is a Music Power rating which Fisher used extensively when that rating mode came into vogue. Today, with healthy tubes, real world RMS power output is about 35-36 watts RMS maximum from each channel when driven individually, and about 30 watts RMS with both channels driven. With multiple output tap output transformers employed, this rating is maintained whether the output impedance is 4, 8, or 16 ohms, as long as the load is connected to the proper output taps.

I hope this helps!

Dave
 
I'm sure you will be waking up any time now. It was a good dream though...
 
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