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Yamaha A-1 speaker cut out

Am I right in thinking that gaining access to the Aux and Tuner switches is very very 'involving?'
Or is there a simpler way than taking all the front fascia and attachments at the side off?
 
Hifibythekg said:
Am I right in thinking that gaining access to the Aux and Tuner switches is very very 'involving?'
Or is there a simpler way than taking all the front fascia and attachments at the side off?
Click to expand...


no easy way around it. Its a complete dismantle. While in there you may as well recap the preamp/equalizer board , tone board and the volume control board. The tone board usually has bad solder joints on all the transistors.

Take lots of pictures where the connector cables go.

Athanasios
 
Thanks for the tips and the warning.
After this level of commitment I’ll have to keep it forever.
Kind of wishing that I’d just labelled the Aux input with ‘do not use.’
 
Hifibythekg said:
In a forlorn attempt to avoid building character I tried carefully dropping in a minute amount of Kontact cleaner into the tiny holes in the switch and using the compressed air and clicking the Tuner, Aux and Tape switches a hundred times.
Result: Tuner works perfectly but Aux will cut out after 10 mins. It tends to make noise in the left channel and then Speaker cut out, and then Speaker button come back on again with sound through both. At which point I powered off the unit and accepted that the Aux switch must get the full dismantling treatment.
What grease should be used in the switch, and is there a homemade substitute as only the tiniest amount is required?
Can petroleum jelly be used, or anything else?
And, yes, will check and reflow the RCA's input / outputs.
Click to expand...
Cleaning the switch is a wise and obvious step to take, but may or may not solve your problem, it can definitely eliminate the switch as the culprit. I wouldn’t use petroleum jelly, use switch cleaner/lubricant, I’m not sure what they’re called in the US (haven’t been home for many years), I remember once @avionic mentioning ‘faderlube’ (?) for reconditioning my slider variable resistor … worked wonders. I use an equivalent product here in Japan.
 
AK, the finest provider of clear advice borne of experience. Thankyou @avionic ! Will put the petroleum jelly to one side.
Now, the offending article is pictured below.
Is it possible or is there a good technique for removing the brown plastic lid of the switch? Or does attempting to do so destroy the switch?
72707AA5-C615-4224-B25B-13054FDAD114.jpeg
 
Hifibythekg said:
AK, the finest provider of clear advice borne of experience. Thankyou @avionic ! Will put the petroleum jelly to one side.
Now, the offending article is pictured below.
Is it possible or is there a good technique for removing the brown plastic lid of the switch? Or does attempting to do so destroy the switch?
View attachment 2705531
Click to expand...


I used a q-tip swab that i pulled most of the cotton off( a foam one would be better ) then I soaked the pins inside the case with DeOxit and used the altered
Q-Tip to scrub the pins. Although this only gets the inside surface of the blades/pins cleaned. Not sure if its possible to maybe use a thin flat tooth pick to get between the case and outer side of the blades.

Athanasios
 
"Not sure if its possible to maybe use a thin flat tooth pick to get between the case and outer side of the blades."
Thanks, tried all of these, plus your quote. Used end of dental brush pick snipped off and gripped in narrow tweezers. What a pain, and despite the effort involved it still feels like a half-arsed bodge as one can't properly examine those rails/pins deep in the interior.
The small brass grips.. just soak them in deoxit and try to wipe, and visually inspect?
 
Hifibythekg said:
"Not sure if its possible to maybe use a thin flat tooth pick to get between the case and outer side of the blades."
Thanks, tried all of these, plus your quote. Used end of dental brush pick snipped off and gripped in narrow tweezers. What a pain, and despite the effort involved it still feels like a half-arsed bodge as one can't properly examine those rails/pins deep in the interior.
The small brass grips.. just soak them in deoxit and try to wipe, and visually inspect?
Click to expand...

I dip a paper business card in contact cleaner or DeOxit and slide it through the grips a few times, if its really dirty continue till the paper runs through and comes out clean.

Yours do not look to bad .

Here is how mine looked.

51829698540_31d89ff237_b.jpg



Athanasios
 
So, the A-1 is now running for hours on end, not too warm at all and not cutting out or playing up.
Such a pain to disassemble and reassemble just to access and disassemble and clean and lubricate that Aux switch (contacts were very carbonised/ grubby) but the amp is now sounding utterly fabulous with the Cantons. Source is a Chord Hugo Mk 1.
Many thanks to all who contributed advice, thought I’d never get here, but happily arrived.
 
Hifibythekg said:
So, the A-1 is now running for hours on end, not too warm at all and not cutting out or playing up.
Such a pain to disassemble and reassemble just to access and disassemble and clean and lubricate that Aux switch (contacts were very carbonised/ grubby) but the amp is now sounding utterly fabulous with the Cantons. Source is a Chord Hugo Mk 1.
Many thanks to all who contributed advice, thought I’d never get here, but happily arrived.
Click to expand...


Thats great news Colin!!! I have a few here to work on and yes it is a pain to clean those. my plan is to buy new gold contact switches once they are in stock.

Athanasios
 
Nashou66 said:
Thats great news Colin!!! I have a few here to work on and yes it is a pain to clean those. my plan is to buy new gold contact switches once they are in stock.

Athanasios
Click to expand...
I'd like a couple of those for my A-1's as well. Would you share a link to the parts?
 
Asmodeus2112 said:
I'd like a couple of those for my A-1's as well. Would you share a link to the parts?
Click to expand...


I have them at home, One thing is they need to be trimmed to fit in the carrier. But I used it on the non toggling positions .
Having said that, I am going to look at the spacing between buttons and maybe buy a new carrier, but there is one more factor, the toggling switches are the AUX, TUNNER and PHONO . Not sure if C&K components , the maker of the switches, have the ability to have that toggling bar that the originals have.
So if not then there is no option but to clean the originals. I may have to send an e-mail to the manufacture and see if they do have the ability to make those as a custom part.
 
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