• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Yamaha Amplifier

I would hate to turn on something with so much dust and debris in it. I don't necessarily think that you should completely disassemble and clean the unit before you try it the first time, but I'd at least give it the vacuum cleaner treatment, with maybe some compressed air.

None of my P2200 or P2201 amps have a removable power cable. I think the socket was added. At least it was modded to use a standard computer-type power cable.

Edit: Or maybe it's just differences between the 120v and 220v versions of the amp. This is what the 120v version looks like on the rear:

DSC05531.JPG
 
Last edited:
Yes, good advice I think.
Would be a shame to give it a deep-ish clean only to find that it was substantially faulty.
I'll probably just let the seller know the situation as it stands on first appearance.
 
Start by bring it up with a dim bulb tester to make sure there are no shorts. Do this first before cleaning anything. If it passes the dimbulb test then go full power, check the voltages and set the bias according to a service manual. If all that is good, then clean it and you're on your way. This is just general approach. I have PC2002M's not the P2200, but i'm sure you can get a service manual on line to know how to test the voltages, etc.
 
Thanks for the photo. Yes, maybe just a mod for UK market.

IMO, that's not a market/regional mod/variant, per se. The unfinished cutout of the mounting hole, the mismatched attaching hardware, etc., speaks to me of a "kitchen table" modification by someone who decided they wanted a detachable power cord.
 
I want a great Yamaha power amp to run my main system. My speakers are biggish Celestion Ditton 66 floorstanders which apparently like high current, probably in order to grip the 12” bass drivers....In which descending order of sound quality would people recommend the various Yamaha amplifier models?

I have always used large mains with 12" woofers, and my Yamaha amp drives them very well. I have a Yamaha MX-1 which has a lot of power (200w/ch), and sounds great. Other amps I have used were in Yamaha recievers and integrated DSPs, around 60w/ch, and these sounded fine as well, after mainly after some added treble and bass, but never quite as pleasurable as the MX-1.
 
Nearly all cleaned out and it now looks good without any visible signs of bad caps, burns, stressed solder joints etc.
Unfortunately I don’t have a variac or dim bulb.
I’ve read somewhere about the capacitors needing to be formed a certain way if a big amp hasn’t been used for a long time, so..
Question:
- For the first mains ‘power on’ should I only have it on for a short time, switch off, and repeat a few times?
Or..just switch it on and let it warm up for a few hours?
- Ok to attach small ‘disposable’ speakers?
 
And thanks Miklemke, I only cleaned it before doing anything else because the interior had so much loose small dust and debris. However, it’s been blown and dusted away quite easily and does show any traces of liquid damage inside.
 
FWIW, the meters on these can be a little flakey. Usually reflowing the connections to the meter driver module sorts it out. Did for me, anyway.
 
Thanks Avionic, yes, I may have over reacted to all the crap that was scattered on it.
Just switch it on with some cheap speakers at first and see how it goes?
 
Another question for Avionic.
if it goes ok on first switch on... just leave it on for a few hours for capacitors to form.. or is this sort of thing unecessary.
And whats's an acceptable DC reading on the speaker outputs for this model?
 
Ah... and,
the glas mains fuses.
They should be 4 Amp slow blow shouldn't they? (T 4.0A correct)
This ones has 'F' 4.0 on the fuses, do I need to get them changed before powering on?
 
Actually, reflecting on comments I’ve seen about (re)forming capacitors slowly.. Would Yamaha really design a product that following shipment from Japan in the 1970’s would perform less than optimally if the the amp‘s power switch were to be activated without a gentle introductory warm up?
 
I have always used large mains with 12" woofers, and my Yamaha amp drives them very well. I have a Yamaha MX-1 which has a lot of power (200w/ch), and sounds great. Other amps I have used were in Yamaha recievers and integrated DSPs, around 60w/ch, and these sounded fine as well, after mainly after some added treble and bass, but never quite as pleasurable as the MX-1.
Thanks Yamahalic. I recently recapped, and partially re-transistored and re-zennered a CR1020. It sounds so good afterwards that it’s encouraged me to get involved with this P2200..
 
Actually, reflecting on comments I’ve seen about (re)forming capacitors slowly.. Would Yamaha really design a product that following shipment from Japan in the 1970’s would perform less than optimally if the the amp‘s power switch were to be activated without a gentle introductory warm up?

Reforming is something relevant to a year or two or more of storage/non-use. For just a year or two power on without loading for some period may be enough. After even longer periods the caps may need to be brought up slowly.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom