• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

YAMAHA B-3 on the way...to me!

Nashou66 said:
Build a Wyn Palmer Phono Preamp, the best stereo separation I have heard and seems to work great with my B2 .

Best my Vinyl has ever sounded, and the line stage is awesome as well.

Athanasios
Click to expand...


My phono pre is quite excellent - its a Jasmine 3.0LP which has been overhauled with premium parts. It's dead quite dual mono class-A design with amazing seperation etc. I think my issue lies within my TT and tonearm - its a Denon DP1200 which is a great mid-fi deck but now that I'm getting into true hi-fi territory it just doesn't seem to be up to the task. I run a Denon 103D and Denon 103S cartridge - the S on a heavy head-shell and the D on a lighter one. Ill likely double and triple check the set-up just to be sure but that is just my suspicion.
 
rottalpha said:
will there be a bare knuckle fight, will they use gloves when they will beat the B2?
how will they beat it?
Click to expand...

Vfetish said:
Lol! All I know is that I need to get a B2 in my stables to do some comprehensive analysis for uh... science.

The B3s in BTL mode are controlling the NS1000M better than I've ever experienced - Krell, Simaudio, Accuphase, Rogue.... nothing has come close. I feel like I am in heaven every night when I sit down for my evening listening session. Digital sources have never sounded so incredible and it's revealed a weakness in my turntable set-up that I am not looking forward to remedying. In fact - my digital source sounds so good that I may just forego my vinyl set-up all together for the time being and focus on putting together a Roon/HQ Player music server suitable for DSD512 upsampling. I feel like I'm listening to one of, if not the best musical system that I've ever heard.... in my house! Feels good man.
Click to expand...

I have B-2 & B-3. (and A-S1000 & A-S1200) I have teamed these v-fet amps with various pre-amps, run B-2 direct to source, run 1 B3, against 1 B-2 comparison. IME 2 x B3 run in BTL mode, driven by a quality pre-amplifier - in my case a 6SN7 circuit based tube pre --- will simply sound better than 1 X B2. ------ And recently I replaced 2XB3 with a Victor JM-S7 driven by same pre-amp...and well let me tell you...you may want to reconsider ----
 
The Fez said:
And recently I replaced 2XB3 with a Victor JM-S7 driven by same pre-amp...and well let me tell you...you may want to reconsider ----
Click to expand...
I haven't heard a B-3 yet but recently a claimed to be defective JM-S7 found its way here. I took a chance and luckily the K70A/J20A weren't the issue so I was able restore it for my enjoyment. To my ears it's truly a magnificent piece of work that few of us will ever have a chance to appreciate given its rarity ... but that a whole other thread. :)
 
Vint Age said:
I haven't heard a B-3 yet but recently a claimed to be defective JM-S7 found its way here. I took a chance and luckily the K70A/J20A weren't the issue so I was able restore it for my enjoyment. To my ears it's truly a magnificent piece of work that few of us will ever have a chance to appreciate given its rarity ... but that a whole other thread. :)
Click to expand...

Those are rare!

We'd enjoy hearing your thoughts about that AMP vs the B1/B2 if you are inclined to write about it in a new thread!
 
The Fez said:
I have B-2 & B-3. (and A-S1000 & A-S1200) I have teamed these v-fet amps with various pre-amps, run B-2 direct to source, run 1 B3, against 1 B-2 comparison. IME 2 x B3 run in BTL mode, driven by a quality pre-amplifier - in my case a 6SN7 circuit based tube pre --- will simply sound better than 1 X B2. ------ And recently I replaced 2XB3 with a Victor JM-S7 driven by same pre-amp...and well let me tell you...you may want to reconsider ----
Click to expand...
Yes, yes, funny thing is that I know what you are talking about and what I am talking about. Let’s just say I might know something you might not be aware of yet…. Hint: different PSU caps in the same amp will give you an entire new perspective…. Says the Dutch guy sitting right next to me here in Zagreb … holding your shipment ;) ;)
 
rottalpha said:
Yes, yes, funny thing is that I know what you are talking about and what I am talking about. Let’s just say I might know something you might not be aware of yet…. Hint: different PSU caps in the same amp will give you an entire new perspective…. Says the Dutch guy sitting right next to me here in Zagreb … holding your shipment ;) ;)
Click to expand...

Ha!! Very good, very good. I need to do a nice long burn in on that amp when I get it...
 
Vfetish said:
LOL! Why can't you let me be happy with what I have?!
Click to expand...

Yeah! - When I say "replaced" the B-3 that don't mean I sold or let those babies go. Just put them out for a spell, and brought in the Victor. Those B-3 will remain for sure, but you need to rotate the collection at intervals that suits you best..
 
Vint Age said:
My JM-S7 runs a little hotter than my B-2 but only a little hotter; IIRC it's biased slightly higher than the B-2 so that would make sense.

The Victor sounds very very nice but to my ears the B-2 sounds just a little nicer. Of course YMMV. :)
Click to expand...
Would you care to share what you set the bias of your JM S7 to and how you set it without the service manual available? I've set mine to 100 mV across one of the 0.47 ohm output emitter resistors. I've read "200 mA" and "class A bias" on other sites and this setting seems to be in line with that guidance. It does run quite warm at this setting but not too warm that you can't hold your hand on the heat sinks as long as you want.
 
Last edited:
rjb5191 said:
Would you care to share what you set the bias of your JM S7 to and how you set it without the service manual available? I've set mine to 100 mV across one of the 0.47 ohm output emitter resistors. I've read "200 mA" and "class A bias" on other sites and this setting seems to be in line with that guidance. It does run quite warm at this setting but not too warm that you can't hold your hand on the heat sinks as long as you want.
Click to expand...
This is a good read

Adjusting the Bias Of Your Amp [English]

Bias adjustment article, TNT - Internet HiFi magazine
www.tnt-audio.com

And AK memebr Ray has a nice video on it.


I one day need to use my distortion analyzer and play with it regarding Bias adjustment.

Didn't we discuss this regarding g the Sansui V-fet amp?

Athanasios
 
Nashou66 said:
This is a good read

Adjusting the Bias Of Your Amp [English]

Bias adjustment article, TNT - Internet HiFi magazine
www.tnt-audio.com

And AK memebr Ray has a nice video on it.


I one day need to use my distortion analyzer and play with it regarding Bias adjustment.

Didn't we discuss this regarding g the Sansui V-fet amp?

Athanasios
Click to expand...

Excellent, thank you. The distortion analyzer will eventually employed for this task. I was more curious what our esteemed member had to share regarding his experience with the JM S7 due to the lack of service documentation.

The info on audio-database mentions "400 mA bias current" and a heat sink temperature of 30 C at maximum output. The vintage knob mentions "200 mA bias current". The best I can interpret this information is 400 mA between all devices or 200 mA per channel. I was running at 200 mA per device which is double that with a heat sink temperature closer to 50 C. I probably won't keep running it this hot but it did sound glorious at low output (~1 watt) and will employ the distortion analyzer next.
 
rjb5191 said:
Excellent, thank you. The distortion analyzer will eventually employed for this task. I was more curious what our esteemed member had to share regarding his experience with the JM S7 due to the lack of service documentation.

The info on audio-database mentions "400 mA bias current" and a heat sink temperature of 30 C at maximum output. The vintage knob mentions "200 mA bias current". The best I can interpret this information is 400 mA between all devices or 200 mA per channel. I was running at 200 mA per device which is double that with a heat sink temperature closer to 50 C. I probably won't keep running it this hot but it did sound glorious at low output (~1 watt) and will employ the distortion analyzer next.
Click to expand...
Distortion analyzer or not, make sure you do not run out of heatsink chasing that 000001 THD improvement
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom