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Yamaha CA-610 restore or CA-1010

I have been playing the CR620 at low volume for the last 2 weeks, it seems pretty solid, sounds great and for me I think the power is fine, I have my main unit for loud listening. Now tonight for the first time I decided to try out the CA-610, I used an old set of Bose 201 speakers that I am not afraid of blowing. it sounded good for about 10min or so, then the right chanel started crackling and volume dropped relative to the left speaker volume. I swapped the speakers around to see if the problem followed, it stayed on the right channel. the VU meter for the right channel does not move as much as the left channel at this point.
 
Try tapping on the protect relay. Could also be dirty switches/controls or cold solder connections.
 
Thanks avionic, I connected it back up and have been running it at low volume level for 2+ hours, I tapped everything with a plastic fork and I have not been able to re-create it, I got nuthin. I will keep it connected to the Bose 201s for now, Things sound ok, not as good as the recently serviced CR-610. I am thinking of re-capping and cleaning this one over the winter. it seems to be a simple unit and I think my soldering skills will be good enough with a little practice.
 
it was working great for several hours until I decided to move the speaker wires from the "B" terminals to the "A" terminals and there was a flash and now its dead. no reaction when I power it on. The 1amp fuse is blown. I will have to order some and hope that fixes it.
 
Beautiful... looks like a "keeper" to me!

Of course, the real dynamics are in its ability to provide great sound reproduction :banana:

Have you tesed what's under the hood, and provide feedback?
 
Thanks 50nstillhifi, yes it is a keeper and it sounded pretty good, almost as good as my CR-620 that I had repaired a few weeks ago, unfortunatly it blew a fuse and wont power up now, I have a new one on the way, hopefully that fixes it so I can start troubleshooting.

MonkeyRellish, I plan to go through all the electrolytics however, I have never done this sort of thing before, I am not the best solderer and I only have a volt meter for test equipment. I am also limited in that I do not have a place to work on it. I plan to get one of those capacitor testers and go through each one by one. I may end up having the same shop that repaired my CR-620 go through and recap it so I know it is done right. Then I can by a CA-810 next year to restore myself. ;-)
 
axxman said:
it was working great for several hours until I decided to move the speaker wires from the "B" terminals to the "A" terminals and there was a flash and now its dead. no reaction when I power it on. The 1amp fuse is blown. I will have to order some and hope that fixes it.
Click to expand...
No relay "click"... The 1 amp fuse is just for the meter lights and "power on" LED.
 
Correct, there is no relay click. so it sounds like something more serious. its a shame because it was sounding pretty good.
 
The flash was in this area, you can see the fuses, I thought it might be a reflection of the fuse blowing, there was no smell of anything burning and nothing burnt around the transformer. Also it was silent.
IMG_6817.jpg
 
axxman said:
power was off, it was unplugged. The flash happened when I turned power back on.
Click to expand...
Hmm..Well .. Need to start from square one. Remove the 4 output transistors from there sockets. And check them for shorted junctions.
Do you know how to test them with your multimeter?
 
avionic said:
Hmm..Well .. Need to start from square one. Remove the 4 output transistors from there sockets. And check them for shorted junctions.
Do you know how to test them with your multimeter?
Click to expand...
ok, this would be the transistors mounted on the heatsink, the larger ones correct? I have a multimeter however I do not know how to test using the multi meter.
 
axxman said:
this would be the transistors mounted on the heatsink,
Click to expand...
Correct...

Testing transistor with multimeter-------------- Post # 1
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/testing-transistors.201303/#post-10856436

bc7ce799-533d-4da6-b9f8-49b0725a0671.jpg


The metal case of you output transistor is the collector.
 
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Make a note of which transistor was removed from which socket. So we don't get polarity screwed up when reinstalling transistors.
There is one NPN and one PNP per channel.
 
avionic said:
Correct...

Testing transistor with multimeter-------------- Post # 1
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/testing-transistors.201303/#post-10856436

bc7ce799-533d-4da6-b9f8-49b0725a0671.jpg


The metal case of you output transistor is the collector.
Click to expand...


OK this is going to take a while, I will note everything in this post as I progress. (side note I do not have any thermal compound here so I think I will order some before I do the rest of them)

orientation facing the amp from the front 1, 2,3,4 left to right. +=red lead -= Black lead


starting with number 4

Base Collector
+ .51 -
- OL +

Emitter - Collector

+ OL -
- OL +


Base - Emitter
+ .52 -
- OL +

Number 3


Base Collector
+ OL -
- .53 +

Emitter - Collector

+ OL -
- OL +


Base - Emitter
+ OL -
- .54 +

Number 2

Base Collector
+ .50 -
- OL +

Emitter - Collector

+ OL -
- OL +


Base - Emitter
+ .53 -
- OL +

Number 1

Base Collector
+ OL -
- .53 +

Emitter - Collector

+ OL -
- OL +


Base - Emitter
+ OL -
- .54 +
 
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axxman said:
OK this is going to take a while, I will note everything in this post as I progress. (side note I do not have any thermal compound here so I think I will order some before I do the rest of them)

orientation facing the amp from the front 1, 2,3,4 left to right. +=red lead -= Black lead
Click to expand...
So far so good...
 
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