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Yamaha CR-640 Repair

J57LITTLE

New Member
Greetings,

I am new to the forum, but with help I've already received from AK I was able to return a Yamaha CR-640 to life. There's still some work to do, but I got it up and running...for a while.

When I inherited this unit, I could not power it on. My 300W bulb tester lit up like a roman candle so I powered it down immediately. The transformer checked out good, so I looked at other areas that could draw so much current to light the bulb tester this way. I replaced the output power modules with new STK0050-II's and the short seemed to be cleared up. With the modules removed I noted that the diode between pins 9 and 10 on one of the modules had failed, so it was good that the modules were replaced.

The lamps were all burned out, so I replaced them. I realize that colored LED's are a popular replacement strategy (and for good reasons), but I wanted to retain the original appearance, so I used incandescent bulbs. The controls were all scratchy and have now been cleaned up.

Many of the critical power circuit capacitors have been replaced, but I have another 25 yet to go on the power/audio side. I've heard that the filter capacitors are usually quite reliable. I checked the ESR and they looked OK, but when I checked capacitance they were nearly 20% below spec (around 8,000uf instead of the the rated 10,000uf). As a result, I replaced the filter capacitors. One of the larger power board capacitors appeared to be leaking so I replaced all of the larger ones.

For a while the the receiver was working and sounded very nice. Checking on the scope, the sine waves looked smooth, but with a tiny bit of noise in the tips of the curve at higher power levels. The volume level was so high when I was starting to see some noise that I decided to defer until I can run the unit with a dummy load so that I can drive it to clipping without blowing out my ears. I built a dummy load box, but I need to make some cables to connect to the receiver.

After running for a bit, the protection relay would no longer energize. I replaced the most obvious protection circuit transistors TR904 and TR903, and I replaced capacitors C901 and C902. C902 is rated at 47uf, but I measured nearly 200 uf, so this was a definite problem. I checked the other protection circuit components and all was good, intermittently, but there are times when the protection relay will still not "click." Since the plan was to recap anyway, I am hoping that this will fix the issue. A relay is on order and will be replaced upon receipt. With the protection circuit stable, the unit should be good to go.

I counted nearly 50 capacitors in the tuner section and no doubt they should be replaced. The FM tuner still works, but signal strength is weak. Frankly, I am out of my league when it comes to the tuner section, and since so few people listen to FM on vintage receivers, I am planning not to recap the tuner section unless it quits completely.

Cosmetically, the unit is in excellent condition, so while this receiver has only moderate market value, I think it is worth the effort to get it fixed.

Any thoughts or feedback are appreciated.
 

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After running for a bit, the protection relay would no longer energize. I replaced the most obvious protection circuit transistors TR904 and TR903, and I replaced capacitors C901 and C902. C902 is rated at 47uf, but I measured nearly 200 uf, so this was a definite problem. I checked the other protection circuit components and all was good, intermittently, but there are times when the protection relay will still not "click."
Does it act the same way without the dim bulb ?
 
Once I removed the shorting condition (the power amp module) I could safely turn on the unit so the bulb has been out of the circuit. Good point though. I can see how a bulb filament may not provide adequate current to operate the receiver (or keep the protection relay functioning properly).
 
Where did you get the STK's

That's a very relevant question. The OP may have gotten lucky, but I would not know where to get parts labeled STK0050II that I would be confident about using. That label is so popular with shady knock-off makers that I believe a lot of the parts on the market are unfit for service.

If it was me, I'd get STK0060IIs from a supplier I trust (Consolidated Electronics, ceitron on .com or on ebay), and drill mounting holes into the Yamaha's heat sink to fit the 60s larger package. Seriously. Have done so on at least one occasion.

There is also an STK0050 (not II) reproduction using robust discrete parts, designed by AK user rcs16. You can find out all about them by looking for that user's thread about them. My only reservation about them is the difference between the "mark I" (two-stage Darlington circuit) and the II (three-stage), but at least they won't blow up in use.
 
Where did you get the STK's
As for the STK's, I bought them years ago, but do not recall where from. I am aware that there are cheap versions out there, but these seem to work as far as I can tell. When I had them playing the receiver sounded good and on the scope the sine wave at 500Hz looked pretty clean until cranked to a high level. I did not drive it into clipping, but before any clipping I could see a tiny bit of noise in the tips the the wave. Overall, fairly clean for a unit that still needs 25 capacitors replaced.
 
That's a very relevant question. The OP may have gotten lucky, but I would not know where to get parts labeled STK0050II that I would be confident about using. That label is so popular with shady knock-off makers that I believe a lot of the parts on the market are unfit for service.

If it was me, I'd get STK0060IIs from a supplier I trust (Consolidated Electronics, ceitron on .com or on ebay), and drill mounting holes into the Yamaha's heat sink to fit the 60s larger package. Seriously. Have done so on at least one occasion.

There is also an STK0050 (not II) reproduction using robust discrete parts, designed by AK user rcs16. You can find out all about them by looking for that user's thread about them. My only reservation about them is the difference between the "mark I" (two-stage Darlington circuit) and the II (three-stage), but at least they won't blow up in use.

I fully understand about the STK-II's - heard a lot of bad things, so I will watch closely. Actually, I've heard a lot of bad things about the Yamaha STK's as well. In fact, the reason I focused in on the power modules to resolve the initial massive over-current problem is that the Yamaha white paint labeling on the left module used to be very clear and now is now burned. The burn is worse near pins 9 and 10 where I detected a bad diode. I appreciate the recommendation about the STK60's. That's a definite possibility. I would be a bit more reserved about the dash-one STK's as that would likely result in a fairly significant output power reduction. I even thought about reverse engineering the dash-two STK onto a daughter board. The schematic is in the owner's manual, but it does not include component values, so that option is out. Now I see why everyone likes the CR-620 so much better. It uses conventional power transistors.
 
I am seeing 143mv at the base of TR901. Looks like it's being fed from coil L702 and R726 in the power section.
But not enough voltage to trigger the protect circuit...
I replaced the most obvious protection circuit transistors TR904 and TR903, and I replaced capacitors C901 and C902.
How about C903. If its acting up it can short the relay coil voltage to ground.

Also check the integrity of R907 resistance and solder connections.
 
I checked R907. It was almost spot on at 178 Ohms. However, at 126uf, C903 is 25% high and needs to be changed. I don't have a replacement on-hand, but ordered it. The protect relay is now engaging, but I suspect it is right on the threshold and that explains why it sometimes engages and sometimes not.
 
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Don't worry for C903. This is a power supply cap for the relay's coil. You should fix the large offset in the left channel first.
 
Well the re-cap of the left side (power and audio) is complete. The protection relay has been replaced. I was getting the audible "click" and was hoping that everything would be OK, but the speaker output stayed engaged for only about 10 seconds, then the relay clicked again with the click also heard in the speakers. Even with the speaker selector turned to the off position, the unit was clicking off after about 10 seconds. Now I am getting no click and no output. I am pretty close to just parting this thing out, but if there are any last minute ideas I'm all ears.
 
I measured the Left side between R721 and R723 and got 1.15 volts. That seemed very high to me, so I checked the Right side and got 135mv. I cannot explain this since I have been able to run the amplifier for up to 30 minutes and it sounds great. I checked the output of both channels on the scope and see perfect sine waves at any frequency. I come back later and then there's no click - or a I get a click and it shuts down after a few seconds. This erratic behavior is making the troubleshooting very difficult for me.

I did note however that the unit appears to have been worked on previously as one of the left channel resistors is not original. I checked it and it seemed to have the right resistance, but definitely not original.

upload_2022-8-20_19-22-45.png

I appreciate the guidance from you and from ecluser. Prior the advice I measured each pin and compared to the data on the wiring diagram. Here's what I found:

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The measurements I got were not perfect, but the signals at pins 2 and 9 seemed to be pretty much spot-on.
Again, thanks for the advice - very much appreciated.

upload_2022-8-20_19-14-34.png

Well, at least the re-cap looks pretty good.
 

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Check resistors R717, R718, R719 and R720. VR701 and VR702 are offset adjustments. Did you try to adjust them?
 
I tried to check offsets and at one point it appeared they were dialed in at 0.0mv, but the erratic nature of the situation puts those measurements in question. I'll try them again and will check the other resistors as you suggest. It appears that R717, R718, R719 and R720 link the pre amp and power amp sections, so they would be important.

Many thanks!
 
I checked resistors R717-R720 and all checked good. I noted that R719 has a huge burn spot underneath it where it had burned before I owned it and a correct replacement was installed. It checks good like the other ones. At one point I had the unit running perfectly for over 30 minutes, so I buttoned it all up and moved it from the bench and hooked it up to the stereo. I got a click, but then output shut off after a few seconds. Hard to understand how it could run so well for 30 minutes and then fail again.
 
I'm not familiar with this model but I know that in some Yamaha receivers there are ground connections by the bus bars. You should check that screws that fix boards on bus bars are very tight.
 
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