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Yamaha MX-1? Compared to other TOTL Yamaha amps

I'm still waiting, Anders :) :scratch2:

Brutal thank's! That was the Info I needed. I know that the MX-1 can only be bridged with an inverted input. Noticing what a difference it made, to use two bridged PC2002Ms I wanted to know what happens when doing this with the always pleasing MX-1. But to me it seems, that there is not much on the web about this, especially recommendations. So if god doesn't send me a CX-10000 i think I will go with a c-70. Or are there sheer inverter units available, which are not as pricey as a whole preamp?
 
the-real-mandak said:
The C-80/85 has a better phono stage, but of curse if you don't like the varible loudness it has to be the C-70.

Regarding hooking up the amps see page 8 of the pdf (that's page 7 in the manual): http://www2.yamaha.co.jp/manual/pdf/av/english/SepA/C-85.pdf

But it must be possible to get a converter, it is just switching + and - on the 2. output.
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Using the C70 as purely a front end for the bridging, phono wasn't a concern. Bear in mind, any amp used in this fashion must have common ground speaker outputs.

Also, I believe a Phase Inverter does a bit more than just switch + and - :D Yes, there are dedicated units available.
 
Yes, I was looking at the C-80 scematics when you where writing, there is a seperate output amp for the inverted output.

I would not recoment the use of a 2. preamp in line just for bridging, too much extra elektronics comming in there. It would give a better result only using the C-70 and if nessesary an external phono stage.
 
Thank you guys for your recommendations. Still the 2nd MX-1 did not arrive yet, but there is a c-70 available I will aim on. This will be my first preamp, because I always loved to take the signal directly from my Onkyo SE-U55SX. If Anyone knows a simple and dicated unit for bridging, any recommendation is welcome. Beside beeing an dual-mono Amp, is the MX-1 bridgeable in general??? I mean, that I'm, going to connect two separate amps (in one case) "together" at the speakers, could this be good?

And on this way: sorry theokalat, that I did hijack your thread :worried:. How do you feel about the MX-1 now, one week later?
 
Look to the Manual for the C-70 for proper bridged amp hookup. If you can't find one, the C80 hookup is the same.

Essentially:
L Channel and L channel inverted outputs go the the Left channel amp.
R Channel and R channel inverted outputs go to the right channel amp.

You use the L+ and R+ speaker outputs. This is why the amp output must be "common ground" not all amps are and some, like the MX10000, use sophisticated feedback circuits on the speaker outputs.

You certainly don't want to re-connect those amp outputs to each other. The magic blue smoke will come out.
 
marne said:
And on this way: sorry theokalat, that I did hijack your thread :worried:. How do you feel about the MX-1 now, one week later?
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All I can say is I am astounded, cannot believe how good this amp is, so good in fact I gave away my mx2000 to my brother to make way for the mx1 in my rack.

Effortless at any power level with zero distortion, very transparent, and extremely clean and smooth sounding, never fatiguing, Yamaha's most underated amp they made.

Some may say I am crazy to let the MX-2000 go, and that it is more audiophile than the MX-1, well not in my system, it is the reverse here.

I do not care what others opinions are re MX-1 v MX-2000, but in my system, it rocks like no other amp ever has before it.

This is a keeper for life. I think I will draw the line and say this will be my final system, I am happy enough now to stop this disease, or obsession, of looking on ebay everyday for upgrades to my system.

Well maybe if I ever come across NSX10000, I may try to snatch them, but I do not think in Australia, I will ever come across a pair, ever!

I now have the perfect pre/power amp (cx-1/ mx-1)and speaker setup (well almost, but it would be with the NSX10000).

Only drawback is its very plain looks, but,you know what, its stashed away in my rack and no one can see it, since it is black, but the music it reproduces makes me want to never stop listening to it, just so much more dynamic than the mx2000.

One thing I noticed it runs cooler than the mx2000, even though its rated for higher power output, but do not leave it on when not using it, it still chews up massive amount of power at idle, do not know why, design fault?, who knows, I read somewhere it may be due to its class A rating I think, not sure.

If anyone gets the chance to grab one, do it, and do your ears a favour!
 
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Your description hit it very well. And sadly it eats quite a bit while being idle. I own such an energy counter you can put between a device and the socket and this says 63Watts in one hour, which is the same amount a pc2002 needs in idle (both have near comparable WPC, but was not able to abx them yet). But if we where cent counters we would not own such stuff :thmbsp: and the sound-quality of this flounder compensates every kW/h it takes.

theokalat said:
I think I will draw the line and say this will be my final system, I am happy enough now to stop this disease, or obsession, of looking on ebay everyday for upgrades to my system.
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You're so right, sometimes I am really tired of this, and I think I'm not the only one, but what comes next?:rolleyes:


Thank you.
 
The bios setting of the MX-2000 is DC60mV, kind of the same setting as the M-80/85 in class A mode. For comparison the MX-1000 run at DC10mV, so you are right on theokalat - it's about the class A.
 
Last night I was tracking another MX-1 on ebay Australia, and it finally fell under the hammer for around $1250.

That is unbelievable. I suspect it could be someone here. AK member perhaps, who may have snatched it up after reading all the rave reviews about such an amp.

Well, whoever you are, good luck and I hope you thoroughly enjoy it. Its a great amp.

But not sure if I would have spent that much on it, can't afford that much to spend anyway, my other half would instantly kick me out the door, and change the locks while she's at it too.

Update on my recently acquired mx-1, I have completely recapped it, including the following:

Replaced all carbon film resistors(some were cracked and looked burnt) with vishay dale 1% and 2% metal film flame proof resistors.

Most mylar caps replaced with wima FKP2 or vishay MKP1837 polyprops.

Low value electrolytics with wima MKS polyester.

Rest of electrolytics with a combo of Nichicon KZ and vishay spraque 517D

Left all metal film and MOX resistors alone along with the diodes and transistors. All measured good.

The only thing I have not replaced yet are the four big power supply caps.
They are 22000uF 42volts units, diameter 50mm, height 70mm, and with solder lugs soldered directly to PCB board.

Cannot find any with lugs to be soldered directly to pcb. Found some cornel dubiler 383lx273 series with snap in terminals, diameter of 50mm height of 63mm,but they are also 27000uF.

Are snap in terminals just a push in snap and thats it, or are they also meant to be soldered. Would they work as replacements for the original solder lug type the amp has.

Also, is 27000uF too high an upgrade over the 22000uF in there at the moment, read somewhere that one should not increase capacitance too much, when doing upgrades.

Any advise, or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

By the way,with the above mods, the amplifier is now in a different league.
So much clearer sound, music just litelrally comes alive at you, as if you are there at a live concert. Soundstage has really opened up alot.

Cannot recommend the MX-1 highly enough,especially with a good recap job.
 
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Are snap in terminals just a push in snap and thats it, or are they also meant to be soldered. Would they work as replacements for the original solder lug type the amp has.

Also, is 27000uF too high an upgrade over the 22000uF in there at the moment, read somewhere that one should not increase capacitance too much, when doing upgrades.
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Snap in caps have to be soldered, too. When you use them as a replacement for solder lug types it may be necessary to drill one or two additional holes. Use a good light source from the print side so you can see the traces to know where to drill. 27.000 µF should not be a problem for the rectifier.
 
Dr. Ear said:
Snap in caps have to be soldered, too. When you use them as a replacement for solder lug types it may be necessary to drill one or two additional holes. Use a good light source from the print side so you can see the traces to know where to drill. 27.000 µF should not be a problem for the rectifier.
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I have noticed a number of capacitors have 4 lugs, are they all supposed to be connected electrically, or are they just to support and stabilise the capacitor on the board?
Can these "extra" lugs be cut off if only there for suport, rather than drilling through the pcb as I am very reluctant to do this in case the board cracks from the drilling pressure.
 
theokalat said:
I have noticed a number of capacitors have 4 lugs, are they all supposed to be connected electrically, or are they just to support and stabilise the capacitor on the board?
Can these "extra" lugs be cut off if only there for suport, rather than drilling through the pcb as I am very reluctant to do this in case the board cracks from the drilling pressure.
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Many of us have been using the Panasonic T-HA series snap ins and cutting off the unused lugs. Sometimes a little tweaking or enlarging the hole in the board is needed. Always solder-in replacements. As long as there's a clamp or other retaining method for the big cans, there should be no cause for concern.

I don't see a suitable T-HA anywhere that's available. From the image on TVK it doesn't appear there's much more height available, which may limit choices a bit. I'd go with what you found.

However, I also notice on TVK, "Build-quality isn't equivalent to a B-2x, sure, but still rather healthy : fully Dual-Mono with 2x 33,000µF and 2x 35,000µF caps, two 335VA transformers, Class A stages, HCA output stages, a base made of two 1,6mm steel plates sandwiched around a damping material, select componentry and gold-plated bus bars and terminals."

Given the relative age of that unit, and the quality Nichicon filter caps they used, I might hesitate to replace them. If that's an early release (1992) it's 18 years into what should be a 30 year cap.
 
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I had a mx-1 and it did not do what my m-80 or mx-1000 could do in full power output or just plain anything else. it did run subs good though.
 
YAMAHAULIC said:
I had a mx-1 and it did not do what my m-80 or mx-1000 could do in full power output or just plain anything else. it did run subs good though.
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I find it hard to believe when you say these two amps are better than the MX-1.
Maybe your MX-1 was not performing as designed, or was not a good match with the rest of your system.

Well, I do not know about your listening environment or other connected equipment, but in my system setup and listening environment, my MX-1 sounded better than the MX-2000 I had.

And I do believe the MX-2000 is much much better than the MX-1000 and streets ahead of the M-80 as far as accuracy,soundstage and musicality is concerned. It is more audiophile in other words than the other two.

I agree the MX-1000 and M80 may go louder, but I am not a great fan of max out volume and going deaf in the process, whereas the MX-1 and MX-2000 are audiophile grade amps.

And I am sure 99% of AK members are not doof doof head bangers listening to music at max volume and permanently damaging their hearing which they will regret years later.

To each their own!
 
Hey now, lets try a different approach.We'll start with the duff duff head banger comment.I used to dj with my home set up,plenty of power and sounds great to. So lots of power comes in handy.I started with pro gear but went with if I dont want to hear this set up loud why would my customers.
Do I like to crank it up still? hell ya.But to no extent as when I was twenty.
You asked in your thead starting post for any ones opinion.So heere is mine.

In my 'higher end' Yamaha linup, I have owned MX-1000's, a MX-1, B-2x, M-80, MX-830, P-2200, PC-2002 and a P-3200(not so good).Not to many but enough to know I like Yamaha's.Exept for the B2-X and the M-80 I ownd the others for many years all at the same time.(I went on a spending binge before I moved out of my folks)So I have compared them over and over swaping in and out for something to do even. Including many smaller Yammies and other brands.
In the end I have felt the MX-1000u's sound better, play louder,hit harder on my subs and look better than all others in my personal collection.I have been downsizing for about two years now and have kept my favs only exept for a lonely M-50.This linup icludes 2 MX-1000u's an M-80, P-2200 a PC-2002 and the M-50.
I did 'nt sell or trade off the B-2X, It broke down then got fxed by the wrong guy,or I mean broken even more.:tears::no::thumbsdn:

Ive yet to own here or even see a MX-2000,surpized you like yhe MX-1 better.
Also, where does it state the MX-1 is audiophile grade and the MX-1000 is not:scratch2: And who else agrees to this?

Any way good thread :thmbsp:
 
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The "other" Yamahalic here...I own an MX-1 and was quite happy with it before it stopped working (it needs to visit a repair shop someday, so I use my old DSP-A700 for now).

Anyway, I wanted to ask you YAMAHAULIC if you ever adjusted the input level knobs on the back of the unit? When I first got the unit, I could not wait to plug and play it into my system (i.e., I did not read the manual at first), and I recall I presumed the input level knobs should be set to the mid point "5". Well, I was not impressed with the sound quality at that point.

Later I realized my errors (not reading the manual at first, and not setting the input level knobs to maximum "10" setting). As per Yamaha's owners manual, these are normally set to the maximum "10" position, and should only be lowered to match lower power level speakers (or if the speakers sound distorted).

So, if your MX-1 speaker level input knobs were not set to maximum "10", then you might not have been experiencing the full quality of the MX-1 sound. After I set mine to 10, I learned for the first time in my life what a high quality amp could deliver.
 
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