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Yamaha R-50

Yes.. The only way to inspect the underside.. It is likely no longer glue..
OK. I know I once had some of that de-soldering wick stuff, but so far I can't find it. Where should I look to buy replacements for those? I think it's obvious that they have leaked.
 
Bit busy, will try and find time later.

A quick look shows pin 12, right channel output at -40V!
Pin 15 is due to -40V feedback?
The first set of measurements suggested a problem with the left channel, your pin 4 actual pin 5 = 40.4V = left output.
 
OK. I know I once had some of that de-soldering wick stuff, but so far I can't find it. Where should I look to buy replacements for those? I think it's obvious that they have leaked.
Either that or someone spilled something in there.

What µf and voltage are they ? What diameter and length in mm are they ?
 
Either that or someone spilled something in there.

What µf and voltage are they ? What diameter and length in mm are they ?
There is no sign of anything spilled on their tops or sides. Only seemingly coming out from underneath.

50v - 6800 UF
25mm dia - 50mm height.
 
Bit busy, will try and find time later.

A quick look shows pin 12, right channel output at -40V!
Pin 15 is due to -40V feedback?
The first set of measurements suggested a problem with the left channel, your pin 4 actual pin 5 = 40.4V = left output.
I double-checked all my measurements. I believe they are correct. The first time through, I began numbering the pins from the wrong end. I believe the second round is correct. Post #40. Go by those.
 
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Pins 12 & 13 are the standout faulty results.
High pin 13 voltage may correspond to low current draw, ie an open.

I don't see a pin to pin test that would confirm the open. You could try
a diode test, red probe on pin 10 black probe on pin 14, amp powered off/unpluggesd, expect 2xVbe, 1.4V

Maybe others with better eyes will pick something up.
 
Well, I ordered the capacitors and wick from Mouser. They don't show having the STK, but other sites do. Should I order that as well? I'll try performing that diode test, but most of this goes right over my head. Baby steps. I mean, I do generally know what a diode does, but beyond that lies a dark abyss...
 
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I do generally know what a diode does
Diode allows current flow in one direction (of the "arrow") and blocks flow in the reverse direction (hence the bar). They are multifunctional from providing a simple 0.65Vdc drop to bias transistor/Vbe tracking duties to rectification to ... Diode test (diode symbol on MM) is a common procedure for testing transistors. Nice graphic from markthefixer
 

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You could try
a diode test, red probe on pin 10 black probe on pin 14, amp powered off/unpluggesd, expect 2xVbe, 1.4V
OK. I did some searches and reading until I understood how to run that "diode test". I got approx 1.5 - jumping around just above and below that value.

I'm not entirely clear on just what is being tested there, but that's what I got.
 
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"diode test". I got approx 1.5 - jumping around just above and below that value.

I'm not entirely clear on just what is being tested there,
If you download a copy of the STK4873 datasheet you will find an equivalent circuit on page 2. The test was for pin 10 & 14 so looking at the equivalent circuit for a path between 10&14 you will see a b-e path via the VAS(?) transistor and another b-e path. If either of these transistors had failed then this would give you a different result, test is limited to the b-e junction, does not cover the c-e junction. I suspect that the vas transistor (with the cap) has failed c-e short(?) or maybe one of the driver transistors.
 
I have looked at those data sheets a bit, but they were pretty much greek to me, but I'll look again. Should I lift the legs of any specific transistors to check them more directly?

PS: Would the failure of that transistor you mentioned take out the STK?
 
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Years ago I messed with some of this type of thing after a neighbor guy gave me a Heathkit tuner he had built. I still have it. I believe one channel is out and I have some recollection of what component was suspect. I intend to look into that after I get through with this Yamaha (if).
 
Should I lift the legs of any specific transistors to check them more directly?

PS: Would the failure of that transistor you mentioned take out the STK?
The datasheet contains a logical/equivalent diagram of the STK. The transistors I mentioned are part of the STK "internals"

Is that version of the datasheet on this site? could you link me to wherever it is? I'm not finding a useful version of it.
Get used to googling xxxx datasheet pdf
 
The datasheet contains a logical/equivalent diagram of the STK. The transistors I mentioned are part of the STK "internals"
Oh, so not accessible. Got it. So is the STK fried, then? If so, can we deduce a cause? Could those bad/leaking caps be related? I have read that these STKs can be a bit fragile. Could it just fail with no outside cause? I was playing the system pretty loud, but I've done that many times. Was driving a pair of JBL control 1's. I believe they are 4 ohms. I have also read that this tuner/amp was/is good at driving low impedance loads, if that's the right way to say it.

I have seen this STK listed for sale. Is there a specific source I should use or are they all pretty much the same?
 
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Was driving a pair of JBL control 1's. I believe they are 4 ohms. I have also read that this tuner/amp was/is good at driving low impedance loads, if that's the right way to say it.
Is this what your speaker connections look like? (This is from thr R-50 user manual.)
8-Ohm.jpg
Do you see where it says speakers should be 8 to 16 Ohms?

Who told you the R-50 could drive 4 Ohm speakers?
 
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