"Say Hello! to my new little friend"

The good thing is you dont need matched pairs at all. Each tube drives both (Left/Right) channels together.
Short: It's not like tube 1 for channel 1 and tube 2 for channel 2.
So for tube-rolling later you can use any tube you have, eg. 6n3p-ev with 5670 or whatever you have :)

161626=7862-guanzo_6n3.jpg


The schematic (one channel shown) aplies also to the v2.2. As one can see U1 is stage 1 and U2 is stage 2.
Every stage of a channel uses a half tube, remember we have double-triodes :)
U1 and U2 are physically different tubes.
 
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The good thing is you dont need matched pairs at all. Each tube drives both (Left/Right) channels together.
Short: It's not like tube 1 for channel 1 and tube 2 for channel 2.
So for tube-rolling later you can use any tube you have, eg. 6n3p-ev with 5670 or whatever you have :)

Cool, thanks for sharing this info. I had asked the question about matched tubes a couple of times in this thread and didn't get any replies. So, I figured better safe than sorry and ordered the matched tubes. It only cost a couple bucks extra, but good to know I can mix and match in the future.
 
Well, here's my modified schematic:
guanzo_6n3_mod.gif
That input resistor (R1 in the picture) could be smaller too, something like 100k to 470k is fine.
 
@bazz77 : regarding C1 and C2 definitely right, for deeper freq. response. (Capacitor-Topic closed :)

You say R1 could be smaller, but it's default 10k and you suggest 100k-470k, which are bigger values...
Hmmm ... could you elaborate litte about?

Then you say "put volumepot at input" ... you mean between J1 and R1 - OR - as a replacement for R1 (after having replaced RV1 of course).
 
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I mean R1 could be smaller than 470k, sorry for the confusion. And volume pot before anything else in the board. My english isn't that good, so hard to explain sometimes..
 
I am also no native english speaker :)
Could you repost or edit your final version with the volume pot added at input ?
 
It has effect on input impedance. Original 10k resistor sets input impedance quite low, thus modern day audio sources (eg. CD-players, computer soundcard outputs, etc.) has generally no problems driving that. But more is better, electrical-wise.
 
I just ordered 2 JJ ECC83-S (compatible of 12AX7) tubes. LOL curious how this gonna sound? :) :)
(will use them with 12AX7 -> 6n3 adapter + 12.6V Heating DC) hehehe ...

Worst case scenario 20 bux in the sink ... or Guanzo HIFI XY v2.3 FTW :)
 
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I strongly recommend that you do not use those tubes on this circuit. ECC83 is totally different animal; amplification factor, anode current, bias voltage and anode resistance doesn't match at all. This circuit is designed for 6N3P tubes or equivalents, like 2C51, 6385 or ECC42.
 
I've had my little Guanzo 2.2 two-tube 6N3 buffer/preamp for 4 days now. Here's my first impressions, along with a question/dilemma.

Ok, hooking it up was easy. Just soldered on a power cord to the primaries of the transformer and hook the secondaries up to the correct terminals on the board, plug in the tubes and go.

Since it was small and easy to move to my test bench I started with an unmodified Sony Playstation 1 (model 1001) as my source, with a modified TPA3116 amplifier and a pair of modified Pioneer SP-BS22-LR speakers. I started with the included Chinese tubes, to make sure everything was working, and then quickly switched to the Russian 6N3P-EV tubes. Even with neither set of tubes being burned in, the improvement was quite noticeable with the Russian tubes - as everyone says, the sound just opens up with these Russian tubes.

In general, I was VERY pleased with the sound. Based on this thread and others I've read, it was what I expected. I quickly moved the set up to my master bedroom system, and spent the next two days enjoying all my favorite Redbook CDs with the Playstation as the only source. I swapped back and forth between the little Pioneers and a pair of KEF 104/2 speakers I picked up last weekend. It sounded great with both sets of speakers. The most noticeable difference I heard, compared to my solid state preamps and integrated amps, was the bass with the little Pioneers. I don't have any measurement equipment to measure the actual bass response. So, I doubt if it actually plays any lower (the little 4" Pioneer midbass driver being the limiting factor), but the bass definitely had a much fuller sound than anything I've previously heard out of these little Pioneer speakers. In fact, poor bass performance was one of my initial complaints about the TPA3116 when I first built and modified them. In my experience, the TPA3116 really needs a preamp to provide acceptable bass. One thing I've notice with the little Pioneers in general is it's very easy to overdrive that little 4" midbass driver to the point where audible breakup is quite noticeable. For whatever reason, I could drive the little Pioneers louder, with fuller sounding base, before hearing any audible breakup, with the little Guanzo than any of my solid state gear. Any theories why that's the case?

Anyhow, for a low cost bedroom system, it would be tough to beat a TPA3116, paired with the two-tube Guanzo, a first gen (model 1001) Playstation 1 (from local Goodwill for $9.99) and a pair of the modified Pioneer SP-BS22-LR speakers. The little modified Pioneers, which sound pretty great already, never sounded this good before. The improved bass performance was very noticeable and an unexpected surprise.

However, not all is perfect. First, as OLK pointed out, as assembled on the 2.2 board, the rectifier gets VERY hot. I haven reversed it yet, but will do so when my Claritycaps and Alps Blue Velvet volume pot arrive. So, easily fixed.

The bigger concern comes when using sources other than the Playstation 1. After hearing how good it sounded with the Playstation, I was eager to try it with other sources, including a Sony DVP-NS3100ES SACD player and my Mac Mini with AIFF files played through a Cambridge Audio DACMagic 100 DAC. This is where disappointment set in. I fully expected things to sound BETTER with the SACD player and the AIFF files played through a much newer, more expensive DAC. What I heard was the exact opposite. When pushing the volume to anything close to moderate listening levels, everything sounded harsh - the bass broke up much sooner and gone were the smooth, non-fatiguing highs I've come to love from the Vifa tweeters in the modified Pioneers. The quality was so poor, I was concerned I'd damaged the speakers somehow. So, I switched back to the much larger KEFs - same result, just very harsh sounding overall. I thought maybe I was just driving the TPA3116 into clipping. So, I switched back to the Playstation 1 as source - magic back, problem solved (well, as long as I'm willing to only listen to Redbook CDs as my only source media).

So, what gives here? I suspect it has something to do with the output of the Playstation 1 being a good match for the input stage of the Guanzo. My Playstation 1 is another new acquisition, and I have not yet performed any of the recommended mods. One of the first mods is to up the output voltage of the PS1 to 1.7 volts (simple resistor change). I haven't measured the peak-to-peak output voltage of my PS1, but as it's in unmodified condition, I assume it's 1.1V maximum, as reported in several online test reports. That's barely half most CD players that are speced at 2.0V max peak-to-peak. So, is it possible the outputs of the Sony SACD player and Cambridge DACMagic 100, while within spec, are overdriving the inputs of the stock Guanzo 2.2 and causing this harshness I am hearing? I had planned to do the recommended mod and bump up the output voltage of the PS1 to 1.7V peak-to-peak to be closer to my other sources. So, what I'd really like to do is come up with a solution that makes the TPS3116/Guanzo 2.2 combo sound as good with all my sources as it currently does with the unmodified PS1.

So, where to start? Any chance this is a supply issue due to the incorrectly (from the factory) rectifier that is overheating? I suppose that's the easiest experiment to try. Would reducing the gain of the TPA3116 help? Right now, it's at the factory default setting (which I believe is 26dB). With the the unmodifed PS1, it's a very good match, but with the SACD and DAC as sources, it gets VERY loud even before turning the volume pot up to the 12 o'clock position, and the stock pot isn't the best at low volume settings. Or does the solution lie in modifying the input section of the Guanzo. I have the 2.2uF Claritycaps on the way, and the Alps volume pot.

All hints, theories, suggestions greatly appreciated.
 
Congrats for obtaining "your little friend" :)

Design flaw of Guanzo v2.2 (and maybe earlier versions):
Problem is that somewhere on pcb the heating-plus meets amp-ground.

Let me suggest you an easy fix for the rectifier:
Follow the conductor path (somewhere on the pcb) from where the printed plus-pin (of the big rectifier) meets ground (of audio part). Just scratch the pcb.

By doing so you isolate the heat circuit entirely from the rest. and as a nice side effect you can leave the rectifier in as it came from factory, saves you from de- and resolder the rectifier.
 
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My source atm is a DIY-DAC (AK4496) with 2Vpp out (chinch).
In the beginning the max position for the pot on guanzo was at about 1-2 o'clock. After burn-in i can go until almost 3 o'clock before the sound starts getting "distorted" or clipped.
Expect smth like 100 hours for the 6N3P(-EB). The russian tubes have a loooong break-in time on the guanzo.

The suplied china 6N3 .. hmmm lol ... keep them handy for test purposes only. They lack bass, have soft mids and insanely horrible harsh highs. Put them tubes in a drawer and forget them.

Regarding the swap from the red-cylinders (0.47uf) to the 2.2uF caps .. oh boy you will get another fat bass boost.
 
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ClarityCaps 2.2uF caps and Alps 50K Blue Velvet pot just arrived. The ClarityCaps and so much bigger than the little red 0.47uF stock caps it's comical. They will go on the back. I actually plan to move most of the parts to the back of the board anyway so when I mount it in a case, the full length of the tubes can stick out of the top of the case.

The 150uF 220V filter caps on my 2.2 board are labeled Nichicon and rated at 105C. Are these the real deal? I'll probably replace them with something a little bigger, anyway.
 
I would rather see the ripple of the high DC Voltage (unfortunately don't have a scope). Nichicon is allready high class cap ...
Try a AB-ing with a bigger cap in parallel eg. 4700uF or 10000uF for see if there is any audible diff. Then you can decide :)

I tried also different AC Voltages (80-100-120-150-170 V) for the audio-part of the circuit. The only diff was a slight change of volume (obviously), the compensation for obtaining max vol was turning the vol-knob maximal one/two more hour(s) towards the right.

I decided for me to go with 150V ac into the screw clamp of the guanzo.

So for having a "peace of mind" one can change/replace all components on the pcb ... hmm i guess some replacements will enhance quality at 5-6th decimal place :)
 
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Wanna see my Moon-Buggy :) ?

v2.2-moon-buggy.caps-back.jpg

The 0.47uF caps (red cylinders removed off the top pcb) and replaced by 2.2uF Mundorfs EVO (soldered UNDER the pcb)

v2.2-mundorf-top.jpg

The 1uF caps replaced by Mundorfs of same value.

v2.2-plus-minus.pc.jpg

Wrong printout on the pcb for the heating rectifier.
I have desoldered the rectifier and feed my own regulated 6.3V DC for heating, look at the colors of the crocodile-clamps :)
The clamps represent correct voltage potential.

v2.2-trafo-50+50.jpg

The AC Voltage feed for the sound part:
3 x 50 Volt AC trafos is series (phase wise correct) give us 150 Volts AC :)
 
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Lets try some tube-rolling :)

12ax7.jpg

Got new 12ax7 today, actually is a JJ ECC83 S :)
In the 1st-stage i left in the JAN GE 5670W (tube on the left), the second stage is the 12ax7 clon.

First listening impression was slightly confusing ... smth not sounding right .. lol .. the left and right channels reversed .. so i reversed the RCA's and problem solved.

Well, the highs are very ok, very smooth and the mids very present and the bass little too weak (as if bass was dampened by a curtain or so).
Ok, ok that after the first minutes .. let's see how the bass will open up after more burn-in :)

The volume pot finds it's maximum at about 4 o'clock, so the 12ax7 has slightly less gain than a 6n3p, in the guanzo.
 
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My new little friend has developed a humming problem. Right now, I'm just running the Guanzo 2.2 stock board with the Russian 6N3P-EV tubes, a TPA3116 amp, Sony PS1 as the source and KEF 104/2 speakers. After I rearranged everything on the top shelf of my rack, I noticed a hum through the speakers I had not heard before. It starts to get real noticeable with the volume pot in the 10 o'clock position, gets louder as the volume is turned up, until about the 4 o'clock position then suddenly gets quieter.

I tried swapping out all the other components (first the amp then the PS1) one at a time, even swapped back in the original Chinese tubes (yuck). The first hint of the source was when I swapped out my fancy Morrow Audio cables for some cheap Monoprice RCAs. The hum got noticeably quieter with the Monoprice cables. I don't think it's due to the quality of the cables, more likely then length - the Monoprice cables are half the length of the Morrows. Anyway, at this point, it became obvious that the input as picking up noise.

The next thing I noticed is the hum got a LOT louder when touching the body of the red 0.47uF caps C4 and C7 (but not C6 and C9). Note, that's just touching the body of the caps, not the leads. Will replacing the cheap original caps with the 2.2uF ClarityCaps help (I probably won't get around to swapping them until this weekend)? Any other suggestions?
 
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