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Fasrening bolts vs. screws

john5220

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
Can you use the "hex type" bolts on the faceplate of the 2252B be used to secure the faceplate on the 2230?

Thanks!
 
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I did it on a 2245 that had Phillip screws but had to change the sleeves behind the face plate to match the aluminum bolts. I like it better my self but that's just me. Take a look and see what you think. Hope it helps...



 
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The bolts do not fit the threads in a 2230.

The pics of the 2220B are not representing the issue here. The 2220B is "born" with bolts. The 2230 is "born" with screws with a different thread. (much narrower)

best regards
Freddy
 
The bolts do not fit the threads in a 2230.

The pics of the 2220B are not representing the issue here. The 2220B is "born" with bolts. The 2230 is "born" with screws with a different thread. (much narrower)

best regards
Freddy
Sorry I was thinking my 2220b cuz I replace broken bolts on that one.
It was my 2245 that had Philip screws M2.5x8MM that I switched over to the bolts.




 
Can you use the "hex type" bolts on the faceplate of the 2252B be used to secure the faceplate on the 2230?

Thanks!
Just made these up, took a couple old aluminum bolts from a 2285B " the same as the 2252B " cut the threads of but left the little shoulder on. Then drilled a hole just a little bit bigger then the 2.5mm screw.Then took some
2.5x10mm screws and cut the heads off. Then a little JB Weld in the hole and set in your cut off 2.5x10 and your all set. Took know time at all. No modifications to the faceplate or receiver.
Here's a 2270 " It uses the same screws as the 2230 " left is the philips and right is the aluminum bolts.



 
I second that Randy, Beats having to drill/tap and send chips into the unit. :thmbsp:

Did you chuck them in a lathe? A shallow (sawed off) Socket, mounted in the chuck would hold it strait. Might be able to tap a few threads into it afterwards.
 
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Thanks guys but boy would I really love to learn the other end of things like you guys know the rebuilds restores troubleshooting the real hands-on stuff.
 
Seeing the above unit gave me a wicked idea. A black plexiglas faceplate with backlit labelling ala McIntosh. :scratch2:
 
There you go... Light it up inside, to watch the guts, You would have to make the ft frame out of clear plastic to mount the switches and pre board, Ect..
 
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" Thanks guys but boy would I really love to learn the other end of things like you guys know the rebuilds restores troubleshooting the real hands-on stuff."

About 2 years ago i joined AK for help on fixing a unit. I had no idea what i was doing, but these guys walked me through it.

Then i got into reading everything i could about simple electronics and learning the right way to repair stuff by hanging out here. I can only suggest reading your repair manual, learn how to do adjustments and read Patfonts Capacitor Shootout threads, and by a good soldering gun, make a dim bulb tester, get a rubber mat on your bench and Recap a Power Supply on one of your units.

Your obviously capable of doing it. Your careful and like perfection. Them are great qualities. Read the threads on some of the repairs and their outcomes. It may not make any sense to you, but keep reading and things will start to sink in.

We are All learning everyday. Get a schematic of a 2275 amp board and learn were the power comes in and how the signal flows through it. How the transistor amplifies the signal and stuff like that.

I am far from getting the real hang of it, but everytime i need help, these guys are here for me. I just need to get on to the bench more. Keep up the Good Work Tony!:thmbsp:
 
Thanks so much for the great suggestion. I have been reading and will continue to read more and more On here every day that I get a chance to learn more I practice a few of the skills intend to keep going with it. Thanks again
And Randy don't be surprised if something like that shows up at your doorstep for you to make work ;)
 
There you go... Light it up inside, to watch the guts, You would have to make the ft frame out of clear plastic to mount the switches and pre board, Ect..

Well actually I meant it would be black appearing then when powered the lettering and scale dots around the knobs would light up blackout style like the dial. If done like the dial scale it would be clear and a black back screened on with openings at the spots light comes through.

The again the Mac guys would just accuse us of "Mac" jealousy! Shoulda kept the idea to myself... it could lead to work. :sigh:
 
Well actually I meant it would be black appearing then when powered the lettering and scale dots around the knobs would light up blackout style like the dial. If done like the dial scale it would be clear and a black back screened on with openings at the spots light comes through.

The again the Mac guys would just accuse us of "Mac" jealousy! Shoulda kept the idea to myself... it could lead to work. :sigh:

You definitely keep having ideas that could lead to more work for yourself...

Personally I like the appearance of the classic Marantz units better than McIntosh. However I'm a big fan of the Mac sound...
 
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