More like a hemorrhoid, actually....It's giving you a woody, isn't it?
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The parts of my new Altecs
- Thread starter spartanmanor
- Start date
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spartanmanor
Lunatic Member
spartanmanor
Lunatic Member
The front's can be sanded down and repainte and some bondo can be used to plug the dual bass ports! Maybe you you should make them rear ported for "easy access" :lmao:
Maybe you you should make them rear ported for "easy access" :lmao:
spartanmanor
Lunatic Member
The front's can be sanded down and repainte and some bondo can be used to plug the dual bass ports!
Boy, aren't you a little fixated on the looks of these. :saywhat:
avguytx
Lunatic Member
How comfortable are you with building an entirely new network? It's pretty easy, overall.
Check out the new terminals I added to the back of the cabinets earlier. It may not make an audible difference but it's a helluva lot easier to change stuff around!
spartanmanor
Lunatic Member
If I had a plan I could do it. I am not up to designing my own at this point.
avguytx
Lunatic Member
That's what I was thinking. First it's "paint the cabinets" and now it's "bondo and fill the ports".
Raymond, please show a picture of your painted and bondo speakers. We are curious!
:You have some decisions to make. You've got 8-Ohm woofers, 16-Ohm HF drivers, and 16-Ohm crossovers.
In the earlier thread about your speakers, Bowtie427 suggested that your 416-8C woofers might not be worth keeping, but I ran a preliminary box model with them, and frankly, I think they'll be better than what came in Valencias. No guarantees, of course, but worth a shot:
http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=1425923#post1425923
Compare to the stock 416-8Z, assuming the T/S parameters we had were correct:
http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=163004&#post163004
SO, I'm going to suggest that you build the same 8-Ohm N-800-8K crossovers that AVguy is building, plus this little add-on compensation network:
http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=1141355&#post1141355
Buy a pair of BMS 4550-8 HF drivers for ~$230 and don't look back. You'll likely get more than that for your 806As selling them on eBay once you hear what you have wrought.... :thmbsp:
spartanmanor
Lunatic Member
You have some decisions to make. You've got 8-Ohm woofers, 16-Ohm HF drivers, and 16-Ohm crossovers.
In the earlier thread about your speakers, Bowtie427 suggested that your 416-8C woofers might not be worth keeping, but I ran a preliminary box model with them, and frankly, I think they'll be better than what came in Valencias. No guarantees, of course, but worth a shot:
http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=1425923#post1425923
Compare to the stock 416-8Z, assuming the T/S parameters we had were correct:
http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=163004&#post163004
SO, I'm going to suggest that you build the same 8-Ohm N-800-8K crossovers that AVguy is building, plus this little add-on compensation network:
http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=1141355&#post1141355
Buy a pair of BMS 4550-8 HF drivers for ~$230 and don't look back. You'll likely get more than that for your 806As selling them on eBay after you hear what you have wrought.... :thmbsp:
Cool! I will look everything over. Thanks for the help :thmbsp:
spartanmanor
Lunatic Member
Let me know what you end up going with. This looks like a pretty simple build. :thmbsp:
spartanmanor
Lunatic Member
I am going to go with the BMS drivers. If I am going to do this project I might as well do it right.
spartanmanor
Lunatic Member
avguytx, which inductors are you going to order the Erse's or the Jantzen's? The Erse's will eat that $100 pretty quick. Also, which brand of Cap's are you thinking of going with?
Yes, Avguytx, please post your PE parts list for N-800-8K here, and when you build them, some pics, please, so new DIYers may appreciate that constructing these or similar crossovers is easy, and plenty good fun!
avguytx
Lunatic Member
Yes, Avguytx, please post your PE parts list for N-800-8K here, and when you build them, some pics, please, so new DIYers may appreciate that constructing these or similar crossovers is easy, and plenty good fun!
I'm using the 15ga Jantzen coils on the low pass, the 18ga for the high pass and the Dayton Poly caps. Here is a list of the parts.
2) 255-428 Jantzen 1.8mh 15awg air core coils @ $19.26 ea
2) 255-264 Jantzen 1.8mh 18awg air core coils @ $9.44
4) 027-421 Dayton 4uf Poly caps @ $1.85 each (need 2 per side paralleled to = 8uf)
2) 027-436 Dayton 20uf Poly caps @ $4.95 ea
2) 027-410 Dayton 1uf Poly caps @ $1.15 ea
(I'm running one of each of the above caps in parallel to = 21uf)
2) 260-625 100 watt mono L-pad 8ohm w/1" shaft @ $9.95 ea
Total all parts = $96.90. I'm ordering some other things (can of Deoxit since it's on sale) so the order is over $100 for free freight. I needed to get some caps, etc for a Magnavox tube amp that I'm going to tinker with on these speakers for awhile.
I'll update with pictures and progress when the parts start rolling in or if I'm working on something else on them.
And here are the tuning calcs.
Altec called these boxes 5.7 cuft without a recessed horn.
Spartan's measurements say deduct 0.142 cuft for the recess.
Altec says deduct 0.19 + 0.023 = 0.213 cuft for the horn and driver, respectively.
The BB6P software deducts for driver displacement. I called the woofers front mounted, i.e., to the front of the baffle, and the gross internal volume 5.56 cuft. The net volume varies with which driver is used, and which duct diameter and length, as the ducts themselves occupy internal volume.
Valencia with 816-8C woofer, red curve:
Tune to 33.23 Hz using two 4" ducts @ 5.037" long; F3 = 51.40 Hz, F10 = 31.63 Hz, or,
to 33.01 Hz using two 3" ducts @ 3.307" long; F3 = 51.81 Hz, F10 = 31.40 Hz.
Milano with 816-8Z woofer, blue curve:
Tune to 36.28 Hz using two 4" ducts @ 5.037" long; F3 = 185.5 Hz, F10 = 45.62 Hz, or,
to 36.11 Hz using two 3" ducts @ 1.926" long; F3 = 185.7 Hz, F10 = 45.62 Hz.
Notes:
1) Altec used two 4.25" ducts @ 6.25" long in 846B Valencia as measured by LHF member VTUBE6, which tune the cabinet to 35.99 Hz.
2) Vent velocities are under 10.5 m/sec with either duct diameter, well within acceptable limits.
3) All sims calculated using "Normal" fiberglass damping.
4) 416-8A/Z T/S parameters do not appear to be published anywhere; I used those measured by an Altec Forum member.
5) If that's how 416-8Z actually behaves above 100 Hz, I'd be giving up 6 dB of sensitivity there and using an LR step filter on the woofer to provide better low bass response. Stock Altecs using that driver in this size box are reputed to be "Bass shy," and this curve may illustrate the reason.
Altec called these boxes 5.7 cuft without a recessed horn.
Spartan's measurements say deduct 0.142 cuft for the recess.
Altec says deduct 0.19 + 0.023 = 0.213 cuft for the horn and driver, respectively.
The BB6P software deducts for driver displacement. I called the woofers front mounted, i.e., to the front of the baffle, and the gross internal volume 5.56 cuft. The net volume varies with which driver is used, and which duct diameter and length, as the ducts themselves occupy internal volume.
Valencia with 816-8C woofer, red curve:
Tune to 33.23 Hz using two 4" ducts @ 5.037" long; F3 = 51.40 Hz, F10 = 31.63 Hz, or,
to 33.01 Hz using two 3" ducts @ 3.307" long; F3 = 51.81 Hz, F10 = 31.40 Hz.
Milano with 816-8Z woofer, blue curve:
Tune to 36.28 Hz using two 4" ducts @ 5.037" long; F3 = 185.5 Hz, F10 = 45.62 Hz, or,
to 36.11 Hz using two 3" ducts @ 1.926" long; F3 = 185.7 Hz, F10 = 45.62 Hz.
Notes:
1) Altec used two 4.25" ducts @ 6.25" long in 846B Valencia as measured by LHF member VTUBE6, which tune the cabinet to 35.99 Hz.
2) Vent velocities are under 10.5 m/sec with either duct diameter, well within acceptable limits.
3) All sims calculated using "Normal" fiberglass damping.
4) 416-8A/Z T/S parameters do not appear to be published anywhere; I used those measured by an Altec Forum member.
5) If that's how 416-8Z actually behaves above 100 Hz, I'd be giving up 6 dB of sensitivity there and using an LR step filter on the woofer to provide better low bass response. Stock Altecs using that driver in this size box are reputed to be "Bass shy," and this curve may illustrate the reason.
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avguytx
Lunatic Member
From what I've always done with ported cabinets, the larger diameter the port (within reason) is better because there is less port noise. Is that a safe assumption with these?
School me. What's an LR baffle step filter? Got a link to what I'd need to build to do that? Can you graph the response results with that filter attached?
Thanks Zilch...you da man!
School me. What's an LR baffle step filter? Got a link to what I'd need to build to do that? Can you graph the response results with that filter attached?
Thanks Zilch...you da man!