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Summer Project I- Recapping 2215B, need help!!

M

mantis

Active Member
Hello everybody!

Summer is here and I have a goal- to learn to desolder/solder caps so I can fix up my 2215B, 2230, and eventually the imposing 2270. First things first, I would like to start on the significantly simpler looking 2215B and use this as a learning experience so I can eventually get the other guys done too.

Here is what I need help with- Getting the new parts. From where should I get a list of the required parts, should I just read each of the parts to replace from the 2215B here or does a list exist elsewhere? Then, from where should I buy the parts? Are there some parts that I need to worry about fitting differently like the bigger caps?

Essentially starting from scratch, but I really want to get this done- I already have the tools (solder gun, rosin, solder wick, desolder bulb, multimeter), and I have the space to do it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, and I will take pictures should they be required as I go through the process. Thanks to all, here is to summer projects!:beerchug:
 
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It's a good unit for your first project. You really don't have to pull the boards to change the caps. Take your time and you can get to the parts from the bottom.
When you say soldering gun do you mean gun or iron? You should use 25w or so pencil iron. Gun is way too hot for board work.

Without the service manual you should make a list of caps from the board.
Just the electrolytics.(cans)
Write down the uf value(or mfd) plus the voltage on the current caps.
There are not that many in the 2215b as compared to the others.

You will enjoy the difference in the completed project.

Do searches in the diy forum for soldering/desoldering tips if necessary.
Keep us posted
 
As far as ordering I wouldn't go anything botique for your first unit.
Just inexpensive caps to start with. You won't be disappointed.

Parts Express, Mouser, Digikey and B+D are a few sources that come to mind.
 
Mantis,
Here's how I do it, FWIW.
Get the service manual, and use that as a basis for a list. Compare the parts list to the actual parts in the unit. If there is a discrepancy go with what is in there now, if it is original. Note whether the part is axial (a lead on each end) or radial (both leads on one end).
For the big filter capacitors you will need to measure the length and diameter, just how much you can deviate and still get it them to fit and if you have to change the mounting or wiring method. This can be a project in it's self!

Once you have your list, go to your favorite supplier's website. Most have a parametric search where you can put in the capacitance, voltage, case style etc. and find a suitable replacement. You can generally go up in voltage a step or two and still have a good fit, as caps have gotten smaller as technology has improved.
I try to use good quality, 105 degree rated parts, Pansonic FC, FM seem to be a favorite around here, as are Nichicon PW and HE.
When your parts arrive get your work area ready and put on some good tunes, it makes the job go easier.
Do one board at a time. check to make sure each cap's polarity matches what is marked on the board. If it's not marked, use a sharpie and mark the board yourself. If the cap does not match the board marking, you have to deduce which is correct. Sometimes the board is mis-marked, sometimes the board stuffer screwed up. (they were real people, not robots back then).
Mark the top of all the old caps with a sharpie, and start changing them out, one by one. I pull the old cap and set it on the bench, if it has leaked on the board, use a little alcohol on a q-tip to clean that up. Next I get the correct one out of my stock and install it. Then I look at both the new and the old caps and double check the value and polarity. If all OK, I throw the old cap in the junk bag. When there are no more sharpie marked caps, that board is done. Test to make sure it still works. If all is well, move on to the next board. If not, re-check your work.

Once you get in the groove it goes pretty fast.

Hope this helps!
Tom
 
Just a suggestion: Get a junky vintage unit from GW or SA (Yorx or Sounddesign anyone?) and practice removing and replacing caps on those before you attempt anything on your Marantzes. Soldering and desoldering well takes a bit of practice, especially on old units, so $5 for a bit of practice can't hurt. :thmbsp:
 
MisterFishey said:
Just a suggestion: Get a junky vintage unit from GW or SA (Yorx or Sounddesign anyone?) and practice removing and replacing caps on those before you attempt anything on your Marantzes. Soldering and desoldering well takes a bit of practice, especially on old units, so $5 for a bit of practice can't hurt. :thmbsp:
Click to expand...
Hey thanks! I think that makes sense- I have a few old technics in the basement that could be used for a better purpose... Will do! :yes:

Detailman,
It is a radioshack 30w soldering iron- it came from this kit:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...&cp=2032058.2032236.2032313&parentPage=family
Looks appropriate? And I will certainly be visiting the DIY forum hah.

catrafter,
Thanks for the tips! I have the service manual and just compared what I found to what the schematics say-
So far I have written down the cap numbers and their corresponding values and compared them to those from the schematics on the power supply (P800) and the power amp (P700) boards and they all matched up. I found that the Cxxx numbers of the big filter caps did not match, it seems they changed their numbers for the production boards or something, but the rest all matched up (is this normal?).

My plan is to order parts for only the two power boards, and then if that is successful move on to the rest. The power supply has 7 caps, the power amp has 12, so I think i will start with the power supply then move on to the amp. Does this sound reasonable?

Thanks guys!
 
Additional question-
Should I be concerned with replacing only the electrolytic caps, or all caps? I have read that it may be a good idea to just do them all.

Additionally...
I am having difficulty determining the best items to purchase- these things seem pretty cheap so I don't care if one is a little more than the other, so which is the best series between panasonic and the nichicon? Thank you thank you thank you.
 
That RS kit should be ok. Not a bad deal really for the $.
Just the electrolytics are what you should be after.
If it were me I would just order all the caps for the whole unit at one time.
I'm tight so I wouldn't want to pay double shipping.
Doing one board at a time is a good idea and as Catrafter says check work after each board is done.
Do practice and keep the iron tip clean and tinned.
 
mantis said:
Additional question-
I am having difficulty determining the best items to purchase- these things seem pretty cheap so I don't care if one is a little more than the other, so which is the best series between panasonic and the nichicon? Thank you thank you thank you.
Click to expand...

Both are good, I like Panasonic FC. Which color do you like best?

Tom
 
Looks do not matter- when its all assembled, I know no matter what is inside it will look gorgeous with that blue light!

I took some time tonight to play around taking and putting back in some caps- I had no difficulty removing the caps, but making a good connection is HARD right now. I had a lot of difficulty not making blobs of ugly solder- I tried to ensure just one contiguous bit of solder on the pins and after a few tries I got that on half my attempts. I think I'll do a bunch more tomorrow, any tips on this? Oh, and the unit I messed around with worked great afterwards so atleast I'm getting it rightish.
 
It takes some practice to be familiar with it.
If it's balling up it usuallymeans you are not getting the joint hot enough before adding solder.
Key is removing all the old solder first and making sure the pad is clean with alcohol swab etc.
Heat the joint a while before you introduce the solder. Put the solder on the joint not the iron.
Hope this helps
 
detailman,
a question- I understand the concept of heating the joint and then applying the solder to that... so it sticks to that- but I am concerned about damaging the capacitor the joint is a part of. I hear of heatsink mechanisms, I have a bunch of old processor heatsinks and gator clip wires, would that be equivalent and would it even be necessary?
 
hey, anyone happen to have a decent scan of a 2215 service manual? I have a shoddy scan here, makes it hard to ensure I will have the correct parts. Thanks! Additionally, is there anyway I could use this baby as a preamp of sorts? It has no pre out like the bigger models, but could the tape monitor be used or something? Just making me wonder. Thanks
 
Mantis,
You can buy the service manual here.
(no affiliation, just a satisfied customer)

The tape out isn't affected by the volume control. You could add pre-out/main in jumpers. There's a thread around here somewhere on the subject, I think it was on a 1030 integrated.

As to your soldering problem, are you using flux core solder? You can't solder well without flux.

Tom
 
thank you for the tip, that seems a reasonable price.

I was using the solder that came with that kit, all it says is Rosin (60%-tin/40%-lead) Core Solder. Is this a problem?
 
mantis said:
detailman,
a question- I understand the concept of heating the joint and then applying the solder to that... so it sticks to that- but I am concerned about damaging the capacitor the joint is a part of. I hear of heatsink mechanisms, I have a bunch of old processor heatsinks and gator clip wires, would that be equivalent and would it even be necessary?
Click to expand...

I don't think you will do any damage to the caps cause you won't be holding the heat that long. If your iron is clean and tinned and hot it should only take a second or two to get the job done.
Parts like diodes and transistors are a little more susecptible to heat and little gator clips are fine.
 
cool, I'll try to practice some more tomorrow and finally order the parts lots of double checking going on!
 
catrafter,
picked up the manual from that company- thanks for the tip, looks great.
This afternoon I will compare the manual parts with the physical for all boards and then place the order with digikey. I'll post here before th eorder to ensure I didn't miss anything.
 
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