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Summer Project I- Recapping 2215B, need help!!

I have run into a problem and I need help from any 2215B owner. On the power supply board (P800), C808 is listed as 220uF 50V in both schematics and part list while my physical unit has 100uF 50V.

Can somebody please please confirm which is correct? Thank you!
 
Mine is a nippon michi-con (now called nichicon) 100uF 50v 11mm dia x 20mm L, you can go up to a 250uF if you want just make sure it is 50v and watch the size. Which boards are you doing? I started on my 700 board and Got got 4 caps done and all of the output trannies/bias. Gotta wait for my mouser shipment for the rest. I went all Nichicon because I couldnt find any place that had al the Elna's in stock.
 
roggom said:
Mine is a nippon michi-con (now called nichicon) 100uF 50v 11mm dia x 20mm L, you can go up to a 250uF if you want just make sure it is 50v and watch the size. Which boards are you doing? I started on my 700 board and Got got 4 caps done and all of the output trannies/bias. Gotta wait for my mouser shipment for the rest. I went all Nichicon because I couldnt find any place that had al the Elna's in stock.
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Thanks for the info! Mine is also a nippon chemi-com 50v 100uF. Do you plan to replace it with the service manual spec 220uF or stick with the 100uF that was put in our units? I plan to do all boards (even that nasty p100 tuner) and be done with it- I'm sure I'll work on the power supply (p800) or p700 first and move on from there. Did you say you replaced the output transistors too? Cool that we appear to be working on this at the same time, feel free to contact me with questions and expect a few from me later :naughty: Oh, and whats special about elnas? I have looked at digikey and I guess I'll go for the panasonic FM series as first choice followed by nichicon HE.
 
Elna makes the Cerafine, which are supposed to be pretty good caps. With shipping at most sites around $6-8 I wanted to one stop shop. As in my earlier post, I have a collection of a few 2216 and 2215B's. i buy them with blown amps and recap/tranny em. The project I am working on is for a spare.
Now recapping the 700 and 800 is ok as well as the electrolytics on the tone board, but I would stay out of the tuner unless you have the gear to recalibrate it.
 
roggom said:
Elna makes the Cerafine, which are supposed to be pretty good caps. With shipping at most sites around $6-8 I wanted to one stop shop. As in my earlier post, I have a collection of a few 2216 and 2215B's. i buy them with blown amps and recap/tranny em. The project I am working on is for a spare.
Now recapping the 700 and 800 is ok as well as the electrolytics on the tone board, but I would stay out of the tuner unless you have the gear to recalibrate it.
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hmm- I was thinking that at first, since this will never be used for its tuner, however I thought it might be worth it to just do it all. Maybe you are right.

Transistors- are you doing it because they are bad, or do you just do them while you are at it?
 
Yes this one was bad, the last few amps i bought had bad h705 or h706 which took out one of the other transistors so i am pretty much shotgunning all of the output transistors. I use the NTE152mcp because they are matched and run about $5 a pair. There are better ones out there but I haven't had them fail. Here is a pick of my first project last year, http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=151645 it was a scrap unit that I used to practice on, notice the mix of different caps on the 700 pcb. I also integrated a hybrid tube amp to the headphone section. This is my daily driver. The ones I have done after have been neat and clean for resale.
 
Hey roggom,
I have a quick q- I am about to finalize the order list here and was wondering if you could confirm that there aren't any surprises on the tone board (I can't pull it out right now) to confirm that what is on the parts list is actually on the board like C808. And, so the 220uF is OK there? Did you keep it 100uF or go to 220? Thanks
 
Just go with the same one, 100uF 50v, as you stated the tone has the same one on it. (4) 1uF/50v, (2) 4.7uF/25v, and (2) 4.7uF/16v. There are several differences between some of the components in Marantz schematics and what is actually on the PCB.
 
Those are the electrolytic from the tone board (non bi-polar). Also definately need some solder wic, I use Techspray No-clean size #3. Makes life so much easier for removing the old caps. It is pretty efficient so yo may need two rolls. Lastly some paste plux. I picked up some petroleum based Lenox PN ws78090 ( I think at Home Depot). Flux is essential when soldering it helps to transfer the heat to the solder joint and makes solder flow better.

Also I am replacing the input caps 1uF 25v dipped tantulum on the 700pcb. mouser pn
80-T356A105K25AT
 
thanks for the tip with the paste flux, I'll order some of that too.

For those tantulum caps, I want to make sure I have this right.
c701, c702, c401, c402 are tant caps correct? Are there any others on the tone board, if so which?

I see those Kemet tantulums on digikey, already added to the list- is there a particular reason to choose kemet, or to stick with tantulum? I read in another thread that it was preferred to replace them with film caps or something? http://209.85.215.104/search?q=cach...2+marantz+2215b+c401&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=1&gl=us
 
Tantulum capacitors are rather nice and are in small packages. They can be darn expensive though. I went with Kemet (name brand) but you can use vishay are any others. Just make sure they are radial dipped and not SMD (surface mount). You can find some film caps and use single sockets on the board. This way you can swap the film in for the tantulum on the 700 board, just pay attention to the size. most poly film are humongous and are rated at 250-1000v for use as snubbers and filter caps. The holes on the board are only 3mm apart.
 
roggom said:
Tantulum capacitors are rather nice and are in small packages. They can be darn expensive though. I went with Kemet (name brand) but you can use vishay are any others. Just make sure they are radial dipped and not SMD (surface mount). You can find some film caps and use single sockets on the board. This way you can swap the film in for the tantulum on the 700 board, just pay attention to the size. most poly film are humongous and are rated at 250-1000v for use as snubbers and filter caps. The holes on the board are only 3mm apart.
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the film caps are way too big it seems, I am not gonna even try to fit those in. I will have my complete list soon!
 
Ok, I can't find the last one:
I need 2 of those 4.7uF 16V caps and I can't find any over at digikey- the only ones they have are surface mount.

What can use get in their place?
 
Go higher in voltage stay close to 5mm diam by 12mm length because CE15 sits right against RE33. You can get whatever is available like 20v, 25v, etc. Worst case get a tantalum.
 
roggom said:
Go higher in voltage stay close to 5mm diam by 12mm length because CE15 sits right against RE33. You can get whatever is available like 20v, 25v, etc. Worst case get a tantalum.
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20,25v tops? I do not know what is safe here.
 
That is just the rating, the 4.7uF is the capacitance or the amount of energy that is stored. You can go up in voltage no worries, just the size will increase somewhat.
 
roggom said:
That is just the rating, the 4.7uF is the capacitance or the amount of energy that is stored. You can go up in voltage no worries, just the size will increase somewhat.
Click to expand...
cool! There is a 50v panasonic FC, I'll select that. Final question here :scratch2: there were a few caps that I couldn't find FM or FC or HE series models- should I go back to my list and look for higher voltage models that will be in the FM FC or HE range? I had a nichicon VZ and two panasonic M series parts in there.
 
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