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Summer Project I- Recapping 2215B, need help!!

Ok here is a screenshot of the parts list, I did not measure the part size on the boards but kept them to between 3-5mm or so unless for the big ones that required it. Hope that is OK.

Look good? I'll order if you think this looks alright.
partlistzq3.jpg
 
Looks good, I stopped by my local parts place and picked up the 3300/35 and will be doing them and the tants today. By the way when you take the 3300's out be careful because they are glued to the board. It may seem that it is still soldered in but you have to coax it out a little. Just dont want you to lift any pads. Nice work on the database.

sent you a PM
 
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=155960

Here is my thread on it. I'm in your boat, I didn't want to tackle my 2270 till the 2215b worked. I don't know if replacing the tantalums or film caps are really necessary as they don't have the lifespan limitations of the electrolytics.

I have a list made of all the caps I found on the unit in exel form if you would like to IM me your email address. I ended up using cerafines for 90% of the caps and the most expensive Panasonics I could find on digikey for the rest (a whopping 8 dollars!) The two big caps were a bit hard to squeeze in there, but since the elnas were audio grade, the spacing between leads is standard, so they fit perfectly.

I used silver bearing rosin core solder, and a weller WTCP soldering station. Its over-kill, but thats what I had. I hightly recommend a solder sucker, it was the only tool I needed to remove the solder, and much easier to use than the wick(which I also have)

Good luck with it! IM or respond if you have any questions on what I did.

2362858247_d6b8e7b395_b.jpg

P.S. I got cerafines cause they were pretty...more than anything else :o
 
hey secondslc,
thanks for the info! I actually made the order and the parts will arrive on tuesday. I ordered exactly what was on that list above. Did you ever get to your 2270? I just know its gonna be a biznatch.

roggom,
I looked around and it was just more convenient to order- it was innexpensive and if there are any problems its actually easier that way.

I'll update as things happen, with pics... as long as im not too embarrassed by my soldering job.
 
mantis said:
hey secondslc,
thanks for the info! I actually made the order and the parts will arrive on tuesday. I ordered exactly what was on that list above. Did you ever get to your 2270? I just know its gonna be a biznatch.
Click to expand...

I never got to my 2270 as I found myself an SR9000G with crispy components on its board due to someone shorting some speakers. Believe it or not, its way easier to work on than the 2270, its also getting cerafines anywhere they fit.


2561817187_a49174f362_b.jpg
 
When ever possible dump the tantalums...you will never find them in an Audiophile unit...

jk
 
Finished mine today, luckily I used my variac/poor mans variac prior to power up. As I mentioned before one of the channels was dead on the unit before the recap, well as soon as I turned it on my poor mans light was glowin bigtime. Found that one of my drivers was bad and also one of my emitter resistors had heated up and went way up in value. Replaced the drivers and ended up changing all of the ER's (pic only shows two new ones).

Here is a pic of my poor mans variac.(best $1 I have ever spent) I use the small one in series with the positive rail of the 700 board, then the one in back is for the whole unit. When you use it the amp will sound like crap, but this is to make sure the output trannies are good to go.

Now after a idle current cal and some dummy load burn-in I packed it up in a 2216, not the 2215b this time. This one will go to my dad for fathers day.

The last pic is my next project it is pretty fryed but "dude I can fix it" got my tv repair man tools and all.

Rogers
 

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damn, apparently I ordered a 35v 3300uf cap instead of a 55v 3300uf cap :( Oh well, gonna have to wait for that now.
 
roggom said:
Those will work fine.
Click to expand...
That is for the power supply... you sure??? I thought the only safe values were if the caps were capable of GREATER voltage... this isn't the case with this one. By the way, I put in C808 and it worked just great!

Let me know if that 35v will work when it says 55v (and the real one is 55v too).
 
update-

4 for 4 on the power supply are working, only a few more and that board will be done. Any word on that 3300 35v cap?
 
update-
The power supply is all done save for the 3300uF 55 cap...
The phono board is completely done, that was a pain... much smaller parts.

Tomorrow on to the power amp board. For this, what is the correct order of operation? Do I simply replace all of the caps and then immediately re-adjust the bias and whatnot as the manual says? Thanks!
 
My bad, the 35 is for the 700pcb, keep forgeting you are recapping the 800 as well. gonna have to hold of on that until you get the higher rated one.
 
Before you do the 700 check and make sure your voltages are fine and do a quick check of the bias. I am not sure if you will be pulling the board out completely or soldering it in place, You can access through the bottom.
 
jstang said:
Snap a pic and post... Are they Tantalums? Some tone board had them....
Click to expand...
They have nothing marked on them, the schematics have:
toneampvc1.jpg

crackerkorean believes its a non-polarized cap there. I guess I have to order those parts again too.
 
Yup Non Polarize Electrolytic.... Replace them with like type....they are usually used in crossovers. Not sure you will find a 16v...Partexpress had a ton of NPs....more then others. But 4.7 is a pretty typical value.


Also I would try to find a 1uF film cap to replace the CE3,4,11,12..... if you can fit them on the board.

And for that matter, CE15,16 could be a film cap too....but that might a tight fit.

Dumping the signal path electrolytics for film caps is a good upgrade....


jk
 
jstang said:
Yup Non Polarize Electrolytic.... Replace them with like type....they are usually used in crossovers. Not sure you will find a 16v...Partexpress had a ton of NPs....more then others. But 4.7 is a pretty typical value.


Also I would try to find a 1uF film cap to replace the CE3,4,11,12..... if you can fit them on the board.

And for that matter, CE15,16 could be a film cap too....but that might a tight fit.

Dumping the signal path electrolytics for film caps is a good upgrade....


jk
Click to expand...
I was wondering about this, maybe you can help me- is it always better to replace electrolytics with film caps? Will this impact longevity? Also, what about brands and what not. If I were to say help me choose film caps for an upcoming project, would you be able to help me a little in finding the appropriate film caps for it?
 
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