• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

2275 Has Arrived! Recap Underway!

MarkyM said:
Ready for tuner alignment with my Sencore SG-80:
Click to expand...

All right. Make that tuner needle match up to the station frequency the tuner is broadcasting.

It probably shows up worse when photographed, but if the spotlighting of the meters annoy you, then you might try tilting the LEDs at a 45 degree angle to see if it helps some.
 
Last edited:
catrafter said:
You are correct in your assumption, you want to peak up the tuner on a weak signal so the AGC doesn't mess you up as to where the actual peak is.

Sometimes you have to rely on experience, Marantz manuals generally suck. It's also interesting when you find that the particular tuner you are working on bears no resemblance to the one in the service literature.

If I could change one thing about the SG-80, it would be to add presets for common generator frequencies. I guess you could do it with automation if you could find or build the correct interface. Do you have one for yours? It came in RS-232 and IEEE-488 versions.

Tom
Click to expand...

Cool, thanks.

No, I don't. Sounds convenient though.
 
Bunty2 said:
All right. Make that tuner needle match up to the station frequency the tuner is broadcasting.

It probably shows up worse when photographed, but if the spotlighting of the meters annoy you, then you might try tilting the LEDs at a 45 degree angle to see if it helps some.
Click to expand...

There wasn't enough ambient light so the meters got overexposed. They look pretty good but thanks for the tip. I'll get some better photos at some point.
 
catrafter said:
You can use WIMA film capacitors for many of the electrolytic types in the audio signal path if you want.

Tom

attachment.php
Click to expand...

Now smaller brown ones, what did you use to replace the two gray capacitors, or whatever they were on the far left side of the tone board? Thanks.
 
Your LED conversion looks very good. I like those dial lamps - they seem evenly lit from left end to right end !!
Did you get those from northridge in Ebay? Pls let me know the source if not.
Did you use 2 resistors for FM and STEREO ? And did you have to or just to make not too bright?
Did you replace all velum papers for dial and meter?
Are they warm white or blue LED?
Any way to stop light leaking from the indicators?
Or
Can we make those indicators completely black when not selected?
Sorry about too many questions...
Thanks!
 
Last edited:
Possibly the light leakage is a warped plastic lamp housing. Another possibility is the dial has separated from the vellum and/or the chassis due to the aging adhesive letting go and light is getting through.
 
Pauljuhn said:
Your LED conversion looks very good. I like those dial lamps - they seem evenly lit from left end to right end !!
Did you get those from northridge in Ebay? Pls let me know the source if not.
Did you use 2 resistors for FM and STEREO ? And did you have to or just to make not too bright?
Did you replace all velum papers for dial and meter?
Are they warm white or blue LED?
Any way to stop light leaking from the indicators?
Or
Can we make those indicators completely black when not selected?
Sorry about too many questions...
Thanks!
Click to expand...

Thanks,

It looks more even in these photos than it really is because of the overexposure. I'll post some better photos at some point.

The LED kit was from Northridge.

I used one 560 Ohm resistor for the indicator lamp common and another for the Stereo light because it is separate. The fuse-lamp-LED's have no added resistor.

I have not replaced the vellum. It is original. This thing must have been kept in an industrial clean room for 40 years.

I think what you are seeing above the indicators in my photo is due to the overexposure, a low camera angle and the fact that the top cover is off.
 
Thanks for the detailed answer.
Now are you thinking of having a wood case? Haha
Your post for recap process will be a good reference for me to do it in the near future.
 
Pauljuhn said:
Thanks for the detailed answer.
Now are you thinking of having a wood case? Haha
Your post for recap process will be a good reference for me to do it in the near future.
Click to expand...

You're welcome.

Well I had a wood case originally back in the 70's. I'll have to check my folks attic.

I'll try to post my complete cap list soon.
 
Hi MarkyM,
Can you please also post the picture of new LED indicators with resister attached to it? I ordered LED set from Northridge too.
I also want to know the sound of click when your new relay is engaged.
Mine is quite soft sound compare to my other 2252 and 2285B.
How to tell if it needs to replace?
Thanks!
 
Pauljuhn said:
Hi MarkyM,
Can you please also post the picture of new LED indicators with resister attached to it? I ordered LED set from Northridge too.
I also want to know the sound of click when your new relay is engaged.
Mine is quite soft sound compare to my other 2252 and 2285B.
How to tell if it needs to replace?
Thanks!
Click to expand...

The resistors were spliced into the common 8vac wire for the majority of the indicators and the 8vdc wire to the Stereo indicator.

I don't think the sound of the relay itself matters. If it is bad, you will hear noise, distortion or cutting out on one or both channels that is made worse if you tap the relay.
 
Signal Path?

MarkyM said:
As promised, attached is the list of replacement caps I used in my Marantz 2275 recap as of January 2015.
Click to expand...

Thanks so much.
That's what I have been waiting for.

How do I know which caps are in the signal path?
It's too technical for me but people say things about it....
 
Pauljuhn said:
Thanks so much.
That's what I have been waiting for.

How do I know which caps are in the signal path?
It's too technical for me but people say things about it....
Click to expand...

You're welcome.

Caps in the signal path are usually used to couple (block DC from) the output of a stage to the input of the next stage.

So they will be in "series" with the signal flow instead of, for example, connected to ground when used as a "bypass" cap.
 
Questions

MarkyM said:
As promised, attached is the list of replacement caps I used in my Marantz 2275 recap as of January 2015.
Click to expand...

I noticed that you used mostly Nichicon KA/KT 105 degree.
Any reason not to choose Silmic II?
I think you have done a lot of research before you bought...

Also which ones are WIMA caps on the list? - all Film caps from the list?
I saw many WIMA caps from your photos.

Thanks!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom