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A box arrived.

I finished up the second amp today. None of the places I trust to buy tubes from have any blue glass tubes, so I had to go with a quad of clear. At some point my OCD is going to get the best of me with one amp having blue glass and one with clear. Before I hook them up in my system I'm going to get some nice wood to put on the sides. All I had on hand was some 1 1/2" wide walnut but I need some 1 3/4" or 2" wide wood. I'm thinking maple. Both amplifiers are very quiet.

I fully endorse your idea of adding wooden sides.

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I endorse your idea of adding wooden sides.

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Nice. I found some mahogany today I'm going to use. Nice TT's. I ways liked the "flying saucer" decks. What are you using for the driver tubes in your M-125's? I'll probably get another pair of 12BH7's, I already have two. I'm using JJ ECC802S long plates right now. They're my favorite new production 12AU7. Bob Latino stated in a post on the Klipsch forum that because of the higher voltage swing of the 12BH7's, they push the amps to full output easier. I'm still scratching my head over that post.
 
Wood sides are walnut pieces 2.5" tall x 1/2" thick that I got from home depot. Counter sunk holes on the sides so the screw heads are hidden. Adding wood dresses them up nicely. For driver tubes myself have settled on RCA 12au7 clear tops, and prefer KT120 for power tubes.
 
Nice. I found some mahogany today I'm going to use. Nice TT's. I ways liked the "flying saucer" decks. What are you using for the driver tubes in your M-125's? I'll probably get another pair of 12BH7's, I already have two. I'm using JJ ECC802S long plates right now. They're my favorite new production 12AU7. Bob Latino stated in a post on the Klipsch forum that because of the higher voltage swing of the 12BH7's, they push the amps to full output easier. I'm still scratching my head over that post.
Might mean longer service life driving four 6550s.
 
12AU7 anode dissipation, 2.75w. Cathode current, 20ma. Amplification, 17.
12BH7 anode dissipation, 3.5w max. Cathode current, 20ma. Amplification, 17.
Not much difference.
 
The linked post is pretty old. If you specify tubes with the kits you'll get 12au7 type, at least that's what Bob included with my amps. I've occasionally seen 12bh7 being mentioned as a candidate, but as phase splitter only.
 
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The linked post is pretty old. If you specify tubes with the kits you'll get 12au7 type, at least that's what Bob included with my amps. I've occasionally seen 12bh7 being mentioned as a candidate, but as phase splitter only.
That's probably where any benefit occurs.
 
The linked post is pretty old. If you specify tubes with the kits you'll get 12au7 type, at least that's what Bob included with my amps. I've occasionally seen 12bh7 being mentioned as a candidate, but as phase splitter only.
I've read that a few times myself. I just thought his statement about needing the 12BH7 to drive the amp to full output a bit odd. He doesn't state that on his website and ships 12AU7's when the kits are shipped with tubes. Why originally design the amplifiers to use 12AU7's if they won't drive the amplifer to full output? I will get a second old stock 12BH7 to use as a splitter. I thought I had two, but remembered one half of the second one I have is bad.
 
those tubes bias slightly differently, so it may be a case of its actually more optimized for one over the other. Its still splitting hairs between them though.

...............................12au7..................12bh7
plate V......................250......................250
grid V.......................-8.5......................-10.5
plate C.....................10.5......................11.5
plate R.....................7700....................5300
transconductance....3100...................3100
amp factor................17.......................16.5

so the 12bh7 is a little lower impedance and has slightly less gain. As a split load inverter the gain comes out slightly less than 1 so that doesn't matter. The slightly lower impedance also isn't that critical, thought it will be slightly more able to handle a lower value grid resistor. Probably not enough to really matter though. Used with the same resistors it will likely end up with the 12bh7 drawing even more extra current but still probably not enough to make a big difference.

unless it was optimized for a 12bh7, then the 12au7 may end up slightly over-biased and not draw enough current to be as linear as it ought to be.
 
those tubes bias slightly differently, so it may be a case of its actually more optimized for one over the other. Its still splitting hairs between them though.

...............................12au7..................12bh7
plate V......................250......................250
grid V.......................-8.5......................-10.5
plate C.....................10.5......................11.5
plate R.....................7700....................5300
transconductance....3100...................3100
amp factor................17.......................16.5

so the 12bh7 is a little lower impedance and has slightly less gain. As a split load inverter the gain comes out slightly less than 1 so that doesn't matter. The slightly lower impedance also isn't that critical, thought it will be slightly more able to handle a lower value grid resistor. Probably not enough to really matter though. Used with the same resistors it will likely end up with the 12bh7 drawing even more extra current but still probably not enough to make a big difference.

unless it was optimized for a 12bh7, then the 12au7 may end up slightly over-biased and not draw enough current to be as linear as it ought to be.
Thanks. That explains some things. I think it was originally optimized for the 12AU7 if I'm not mistaken, like the ST-70 and ST-120 is.
 
hm, further thought, are these actually using a long tail pair inverter ? thread is long and I didn't trip over the driver schematic. If thats the case, the inverter gain is more than one, but still 16.5 vs 17 is not significant. If its got a CCS, then the current is whatever that sets it to so the bias voltage gets less critical.

so I'm still thinking that both tubes would give pretty much equal results.
 
hm, further thought, are these actually using a long tail pair inverter ? thread is long and I didn't trip over the driver schematic. If thats the case, the inverter gain is more than one, but still 16.5 vs 17 is not significant. If its got a CCS, then the current is whatever that sets it to so the bias voltage gets less critical.

so I'm still thinking that both tubes would give pretty much equal results.
That's kind of what I thought. These do have CCS. That's why his statement had me a bit puzzled.
 
I found some Mahogany I ripped down to the width I needed to put on the sides of the amps. I looked for some maple in town, but the wood selection is a bit thin at the moment. Once some showes up I'll probably make new side pieces.
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Nice,,, are you going to stain it, or just clear/oil? Decide about covering the PCB yet?
I just used a thin coat of wipe on semi gloss poly coat. I still haven't decided on what to use for a PCB cover. I have some 1/8" thick wood I could use. My other choices are plexiglass and paint the bottom side, or perforated steel. Getting perforated steel used to be easy to find around here, but the steel yard closed years ago. It was handy whenever you needed any type of steel cut to your needs. I was surprised it closed since this is a heavily agricultural area with tractor dealers and ag machine manufacturers around.
 
Lots of sources of perf metal...old chassis cages,,, or look at some kitchen strainers in the $$ stores,,, you don't need a very big piece, if ya go that way!
 
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