A box arrived.
- Thread starter Lavane
- Start date
Lavane
Lunatic Member
Good idea!
Lavane
Lunatic Member
There is a good 1/4" of clearance. The plexy covers for the driver boards Roy sells at VTA come with and without cap holes, depending on how you mount the caps. I checked the space before mounting the boards.
trainbuftony
Electron Herder
You can get a better rectifier than a gz37 for under a buck. Uf4007, x2. If the tube company wants to make a mint, build a gz34 with diodes hidden in the base and Gz-37 etched on the glass.
Essentially a "yellow sheet mod" for those who can't or don't want to solder.
Eventually theres not going to be enough gz37s left on earth to run the latino amps, and if I know tube folks, we are going to find a way to run those amplifiers.
tonyg88
Super Member
Sounds like something the chinese would do.... I myself prefer a real tube rectifier.
David_NC
Super Member
Looks good! I'm glad you're doing this build, as I've been looking at these for a while now. It'll be interesting to get your thoughts on them, when they are finished.
As for the rectifier, how difficult would it be to fabricate one under the chassis? After seeing the innards of a The big resistors could be mounted against the chassis for cooling. Basically, I'm thinking that assembling the parts, such as those in of the Weber Copper Caps, and implementing them underneath wouldn't be too difficult. Another thought I've had is could a socket be added where the cap can is to allow for a second 5AR4? Caps would be located underneath vs in the can this way. I've seen quite a few amps with multiple rectifiers, so it definitely isn't a new idea.
As for the rectifier, how difficult would it be to fabricate one under the chassis? After seeing the innards of a The big resistors could be mounted against the chassis for cooling. Basically, I'm thinking that assembling the parts, such as those in of the Weber Copper Caps, and implementing them underneath wouldn't be too difficult. Another thought I've had is could a socket be added where the cap can is to allow for a second 5AR4? Caps would be located underneath vs in the can this way. I've seen quite a few amps with multiple rectifiers, so it definitely isn't a new idea.
Lavane
Lunatic Member
Not difficult at all. And if the Coppertop rectifiers fail I'll probably just mount everything under the hood. I've seen where some have replaced the CL80 thermistor in them with a CL90 also. Drilling holes in the copper cover seems to help quite a bit with these as they do get hot. I've seen a picture of several VTA amps that had two 5AR4's, removing the cap can and placing caps underneath. I'll see how it goes with the ventilated Webers first.
Legrace
Super Member
@Lavane amp #1 looks really clean, great wiring job!
I'm inspired to do a similar power switch relocation mod on my M125's. Thinking to relocate one of the two switches over to the bucker I use with my amps. (as wall goes as high as 124) Assembled it from some scrap wood pieces, provides about 12% reduction.
Afterwards thinking to maybe repurpose power switch hole to pilot light.
A recent check of the auction site GZ33 and GZ37 tube rectifiers have really escalated in price. SS options are looking better all the time.
I'm inspired to do a similar power switch relocation mod on my M125's. Thinking to relocate one of the two switches over to the bucker I use with my amps. (as wall goes as high as 124) Assembled it from some scrap wood pieces, provides about 12% reduction.
Afterwards thinking to maybe repurpose power switch hole to pilot light.
A recent check of the auction site GZ33 and GZ37 tube rectifiers have really escalated in price. SS options are looking better all the time.
Lavane
Lunatic Member
I have the first one up and running. It biased up and held steady. No earth ground in the room my bench is in and even without it I'm only getting a very slight hum that I can hear if I put my ear right on the speaker.
The outlet I'm using in the living room is grounded. It sounds pretty good already just using a small Polk bookshelf speaker I have. The KT-88's sound much better so far than they did in my ST-70. On to the next one!
The outlet I'm using in the living room is grounded. It sounds pretty good already just using a small Polk bookshelf speaker I have. The KT-88's sound much better so far than they did in my ST-70. On to the next one!
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Lavane
Lunatic Member
Nice looking bucker. I just didn't like the long run with the input wiring and having the AC wires for the switch running through all the other wiring. Moving the switch to the bucker is a cool idea. I didn't bother with a bucker since my AC stays pretty steady between 120v and 121v. The new power transformers come with two secondaries. The second one is used if your house voltage is too high.
David_NC
Super Member
I use these for switching my amps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WV7GMA2/
These are nice, since they allow me to turn on equipment using the remote from my AVR and main stereo or the front panel of my preamp (in another system). I'm thinking of adding a time delay so that my amps don't all power on at the same time.
epifanatic
acoustically suspended
Lov
Love the blue glass!
Lavane
Lunatic Member
Thanks. I've been looking at those and a few others. Right now it's a big mess of surge protectors and wireless outlets. I need tofins something I can ug most of the equipment into. I have two systems in the living room right now. One SS and my tube setup with two amps on a switch box.I use these for switching my amps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WV7GMA2/
These are nice, since they allow me to turn on equipment using the remote from my AVR and main stereo or the front panel of my preamp (in another system). I'm thinking of adding a time delay so that my amps don't all power on at the same time.
Pio1980
AK Member
Arcturus tubes in cobalt glass tributes.
Lavane
Lunatic Member
I finished up the second amp today. None of the places I trust to buy tubes from have any blue glass tubes, so I had to go with a quad of clear. At some point my OCD is going to get the best of me with one amp having blue glass and one with clear. Before I hook them up in my system I'm going to get some nice wood to put on the sides. All I had on hand was some 1 1/2" wide walnut but I need some 1 3/4" or 2" wide wood. I'm thinking maple. Both amplifiers are very quiet.
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Lavane
Lunatic Member
Thanks John. There are plexi covers that could be painted on one the under side if you wished available to cover the PCB'S. I saw a picture of one if these amps where the owner used 1/4" thick wood he stained, with holes punched in them for the signal tubes. I kind if like that look better. It should go well with the wood sides I'm putting on them.
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