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A/D/S line pecking order?

soundmotor said:
Prefaced with a big FWIW,

I have to respectfully disagree, the L1530 was a fantastic speaker capable of great dynamics and used by a few recording studios as their main monitors. The L2030 was a dog, line array & all. Really, they truly sucked. The L1230 was my favorite of the bunch. It did everything good except play real loud. If you wanted that, the L1530 would, in spades. When we were listening to the L2030's I am sure we blew a woofer on "Money For Nothing" & then they went to the dumpster.

Myself & another built the last set of L1530's ever to be made in the ADS factory, years after the last set was sold to a dealer, as a lark, spring 1993, from forgotten spare parts still in inventory, before they went to the dumpster. I should have kept them as they would have been free. I've heard all the "30" series towers but not against each other. Only one at a time, my opinions are based on that, again, all FWIW.

Of the early "90" series towers, I have also listened to them all & even A/B'd them. IMO, the L1090 was the best of the lot if you used a subwoofer, the L1290 the best all-rounder sans subwoofer, & the L1590 the rep as the best rock & roller. I liked them all & guess if I could only choose one, it would likely be the L1590's. Kind of like a Cadillac with horns, Anna Nicole Smith, or an MC275.

There, I said it.

Catharthis.


Yup! Now we know your ebay moniker. Jes kidding! Yea, the largest I've heard (and play everyday) are the L1230's. Nice to hear from one who has built 'em and has "in the know" critisism. Thanks for setting everyone straight.
 
soundmotor said:
Prefaced with a big Myself & another built the last set of L1530's ever to be made in the ADS factory, years after the last set was sold to a dealer, as a lark, spring 1993, from forgotten spare parts still in inventory, before they went to the dumpster. I should have kept them as they would have been free. I've heard all the "30" series towers but not against each other. Only one at a time, my opinions are based on that, again, all FWIW.
SM, would you mind giving us a little more detail on your background. Maybe I missed it from another thread but from your comment I guess you worked at the ADS factory? :scratch2: More details please if you don't mind sharing. :yes:
 
Duffinator said:
SM, would you mind giving us a little more detail on your background. Maybe I missed it from another thread but from your comment I guess you worked at the ADS factory? :scratch2: More details please if you don't mind sharing. :yes:

No, I don't mind sharing in a non-partisan way.

I've been in the audio industry for not quite 20 years.

ADS ~6 of that, 2 other major speaker manufacturers followed.

The last of whom I've worked for ~9 years.
 
BRAUN mids and Tweeters on ADS

First, great thread and thanks for all the info.

I have questions, but first some background. I have L-710's, L-810's and L-1230's.

The 710's were purchased buy me in late '74 directly from the factory, just as they were transitioning from BRAUN to ADS drivers. I had to replace the foam woofers in the 80's and got replacement woofers directly from ADS at the time @$75 ea. The woofers I pulled out were ADS, so I thought I had missed out on the Braun Drivers, but I recently pulled a mid in the thought of possibly parting it out and discover they were Braun. MUCH beefier magnet!

Some questions:

1) Are the Braun drivers better? I think they were LL5 -- forgot #'s and now they are back in cab)? Can I swap with my 1230's (with some woodwork)?
2) 1230's mids are puckering a tad dis-colored -- what is this, and does it affect sound?
3) Are the 710 replacement woofer with rubber surrounds any good -- i noted at the time a smaller magnet and I believe they were made in China (not so great in the 80's)?
4) Anyone know of a c-2000 active cross-over specified to bi-amp the 1230's for sale? Can I bi-amp without this to good effect?
5) Any suggested mods for any of these speakers, and Anyone know of anyone who might want to tinker with the caps and whatnot on the 1230's crossovers -- they must be old by now, and you can get better electronics now if you can spec them (I can't, and not so handy with soldering iron).

Well, that's enough for a newbie. Thanks in advance for whatever help.
 
where do the L-830 fall into the mix

IMGcopy.jpg
 
cybercoach said:
First, great thread and thanks for all the info.

I have questions, but first some background. I have L-710's, L-810's and L-1230's.

The 710's were purchased buy me in late '74 directly from the factory, just as they were transitioning from BRAUN to ADS drivers. I had to replace the foam woofers in the 80's and got replacement woofers directly from ADS at the time @$75 ea. The woofers I pulled out were ADS, so I thought I had missed out on the Braun Drivers, but I recently pulled a mid in the thought of possibly parting it out and discover they were Braun. MUCH beefier magnet!.

I believe the Braun looks beefier because the magnet is encapsulated in plastic. It gives it a larger diameter. IIRC, they used the same Thyssen or Dortmund magnet slugs as ADS.

cybercoach said:
Some questions:

1) Are the Braun drivers better? I think they were LL5 -- forgot #'s and now they are back in cab)? Can I swap with my 1230's (with some woodwork)?
2) 1230's mids are puckering a tad dis-colored -- what is this, and does it affect sound?
3) Are the 710 replacement woofer with rubber surrounds any good -- i noted at the time a smaller magnet and I believe they were made in China (not so great in the 80's)?
4) Anyone know of a c-2000 active cross-over specified to bi-amp the 1230's for sale? Can I bi-amp without this to good effect?
5) Any suggested mods for any of these speakers, and Anyone know of anyone who might want to tinker with the caps and whatnot on the 1230's crossovers -- they must be old by now, and you can get better electronics now if you can spec them (I can't, and not so handy with soldering iron).

Well, that's enough for a newbie. Thanks in advance for whatever help.

IMO, they are just different, not necessarily better.

Not sure what you mean on the mids puckering - clarify please

710 replacement drivers were all made in Wilmington, MA. They got nothing from China in the 80's.

I don't believe the 1230 is configured from the factory to allow biamping. You'd need to modify the crossovers on it as well as the crossovers in C2000 to optimize it.

About the only tweak I'd make is possibly upgrading the tweeter series caps to polypropylene from mylar. You may need to adjust or add series resistance in order to balance they way they sound afterward.
 
ADS drivers

I stand corrected on the China issue.

The 1230's have a switch for bi-amplification, and from what you said, I guess you DO need the c-2000, huh?

By puckering on the mids, I mean a dimple that won't go way no matter how I move it around. In some places, it causes a buzzing, but others not.
 
Richard has repaired two sets of L810s mids & tweets for me and I was very pleased with his work. He is top notch and priced attractively.


portisphish said:
NO. His name is Richard So.

Thanks Dingus. Might have to have a shootout 910 vs. 810. I'm in Port Orchard. Found these 910's at the goodwill in Gig Harbor. $17 each.
 
Cyber; I would luv to get my paws on a C2000 as well. If you ever get one please let me know how much better your 1230's sound. Well even if you get any additional info that isn't already in the guide--let me know too. It would really help.
 
cybercoach said:
I stand corrected on the China issue.

The 1230's have a switch for bi-amplification, and from what you said, I guess you DO need the c-2000, huh?

By puckering on the mids, I mean a dimple that won't go way no matter how I move it around. In some places, it causes a buzzing, but others not.

I did not remember that and would have lost a bar bet that the C2000 was for the later "90" series as well as the 980, not the 1230. I've been looking for a C2000 for some time to use with my 980's but have yet to find one. I don't think ADS made all that many. They made a lot of C1500's which was used with the SubSat 2300 (PB1500/L400 combo). Good luck but there are other active networks out there to use.

So if I understand the above, the mid-dome is pushed in? If so, that is an easy fix. Confirm & I will run you though the basics of fixing it.
 
Soundmotor: Am confirming mid is pushed in. As I said, I can move around the dent but not remove it. When it rests in some areas, it causes a subtle buzz when listening to piano -- heavy on mid freqs. Any fix advice MUCH appreciated.

Yes, I have a copy of orig ADS product brochure specifying the C-2000 for the 1230. Also specified for 90 series. As there are many folks looking for one and not a lot made, I am interested in any guidance about why active crossover needed and alternatives available. THANKS!
 
ADS driver questions

Soundmotor,

Were the tweeters out of the car speakers (200i plates) ever used in the home speakers? I have a pair (074360 original & 140160 replacement) that I have parted out and may keep for spares since I am currently looking for some L-810's. If they are exlusive to the car speakers then I will just throw on e-bay or sell cheap to an AK guy that needs em'.

Also, the 4" mids have the surround glue/rust problem that I have read about on here (picture attached). What glue do you recommend to fix these? I was going to apply a thin layer of Gorilla Glue to fix, but thought I better ask the question. Once fixed I will give these to any AK member that needs them for free (just cover shipping).

I also will give the original 200i crossovers to anyone that needs them for no cost, just cover the shipping from Idaho.

Thanks.
 

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BSUfbfan said:
Soundmotor,

Were the tweeters out of the car speakers (200i plates) ever used in the home speakers? I have a pair (074360 original & 140160 replacement) that I have parted out and may keep for spares since I am currently looking for some L-810's. If they are exlusive to the car speakers then I will just throw on e-bay or sell cheap to an AK guy that needs em'.

Also, the 4" mids have the surround glue/rust problem that I have read about on here (picture attached). What glue do you recommend to fix these? I was going to apply a thin layer of Gorilla Glue to fix, but thought I better ask the question. Once fixed I will give these to any AK member that needs them for free (just cover shipping).

I also will give the original 200i crossovers to anyone that needs them for no cost, just cover the shipping from Idaho.

Thanks.

The tweeters are indeed used on the home models, but not the 810's. You have a mismatched set too. One looks like a 206-0101 because of all the crap stuck to the dome. The correct tweeter for the 200i is the 206-0101A. The other one is a 206-0126, correct for the 200is. "is" on the mobile speakers usually indicates the plastic domes & cones.

The 206-0101 (& the 0101A later replacement for it) was also used on the home models L10, L200, & L300 (all variants except "e"). The 206-0126 was used on the CSAT/AW4, C300is home inwall, L200e & L300e. Probably used on the later 210 & 310 also.

To make a permanent repair to the woofers, you need to scrape the rust off with an Xacto chisel blade or similar and then reprime & paint. It isn't as bad as it sounds & you can do each in a few minutes per coat after you scrape them. Gorilla-type glue is probably OK as well as any other slow-set. I use slow-set cyanoacrylate. After you get them glued up you want the surround to migrate back over to its natural rest point to center up.
 
Thanks, Soundmotor, for your knowledge.

So it sounds like they (a/d/s) should have sent me a 206-0101A replacement for the blown tweeter I sent them rather than the 206-0126 that they actually sent me?

Oh well, it was 14 years ago, and I don't usually hold a grudge for longer than 10 years or so.... :dammit:

Anyway, if anyone out there has any of the above listed speakers and needs a backup or replacement, there yours, just cover shipping.

Just don't bid against me on those 810's on ebay right now........ :)
 
L810 generation?

Soundmotor,

What do you make of these pictures as far as a year of manufacture estimate.

Thanks.
 

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