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Tiver said:
If you decide they are long term for the #1 spot (even if you don't actually), just bite the bullet and have the mids and tweets rebuilt. Might give serious though to have the XOs done while you are at it. You can get the mids, tweets and XOs into the large flat rate USPS box........$20ish and Richard So picks up return shipping. I had that whole assembly done last November for my L1590/2. So complete, shipped both ways, looking at about $450. Worth it IMO for the end result and the long term service expectation.

View attachment 1878827

It's a snug fit which is exactly what you want. Cushioning on top, bottom, sides and in between all components. Soft domes facing each other with spacers. I made spacers from small wood blocks just big enough to keep them from touching each other, held together with screws and nuts (bought purposely to get it done)

Anyhow, two words, "Worth it"

And, BTW, nice score !!
Click to expand...
Thanks for the packaging info. I am sending a few drivers to Richard for the BC8’s I’m refurbishing. Trying to get these out this week. Will probably wait and do the 1590’s after I get these done. I am excited to hear what these BC8’s sound like. Wasn’t much coming out of them when connected. But I might have had them under powered. Will see.
Thanks,
BT
 

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When I got my 1590/2 the tweeters were a mess. They had been "rebuilt" by a different speaker shop. When Richard received them he responded with, "they have butchered a lot of ADS drivers" or some such. The mids had dents and weren't that pretty so I just went for the whole shootin' match.

Last night I put the L1590/2 up against the L1230. I didn't spend a lot of time thinking about it, but the L1230 was definitely the runner up. I suppose this isn't a shock.
 
The originals are MDF or similar fiber board material. Mine are slightly different in the bottom cut out for the speaker wires, but essentially the same. They are mounted to the bottom of the speaker with 4 wood screws. Maybe a #14 x 2". I could pull one out and check. Glenn's pics show the 4 holes. As far as I recall, the holes in the speaker bottom weren't reinforced. If you look on the bottom of your speaker, maybe the holes are pre-drilled?
 
Boston Tom said:
Thanks great pics and details will come in handy. How are they attached to the bottom of the speakers. Just screws or is there an anchoring system through the cabinet?
Again much appreciated!!
BT
Click to expand...
Yes, 4 screws. You can see the 4 recessed holes for them.
These were part of a restoration I did for another AKer.
 
Tiver said:
The originals are MDF or similar fiber board material. Mine are slightly different in the bottom cut out for the speaker wires, but essentially the same. They are mounted to the bottom of the speaker with 4 wood screws. Maybe a #14 x 2". I could pull one out and check. Glenn's pics show the 4 holes. As far as I recall, the holes in the speaker bottom weren't reinforced. If you look on the bottom of your speaker, maybe the holes are pre-drilled?
Click to expand...
I believe it's a molded fiber board.
Here's a couple pics of a damaged area on the bottom of one base, and bottom of the cabinet. You can see the 4 screw holes.
I soaked the damaged area with epoxy to solidify the area during the repairs.
Glenn
1590 bottom pic.jpg Base damage.jpg
 
Tiver said:
The originals are MDF or similar fiber board material.
Click to expand...

If anyone is going to take the time to reproduce these, why not make them out of something nicer than fiberboard, like walnut or some other matching or contrasting wood? I have a pair of L1290 I need to reveneer, and was planning to make real wod bases for them.
 
After looking at the bottoms on @GD70 restoration, I had to go and look at the bottoms on mine. I thought the opening looked smaller than it did on mine. How could that small an opening allow speaker wire hook up without base removal?

Here is a picture of the bottom on one of mine....there are 4 extra screw holes because the bases had actually split and the PO just put in different screws. I repaired the base and used the original holes.
L1590 bottom.jpg

Aptone said:
If anyone is going to take the time to reproduce these, why not make them out of something nicer than fiberboard, like walnut or some other matching or contrasting wood? I have a pair of L1290 I need to reveneer, and was planning to make real wod bases for them.
Click to expand...

That's a decent idea. The contrasting, black painted MDF is nice looking on its own, but a plywood base with a perimeter wrap of a matching wood species could be very nice as well. It would be easy enough to make.


Spikes could easily be added to the original or fabricated bases as well.
 
Aptone said:
If anyone is going to take the time to reproduce these, why not make them out of something nicer than fiberboard, like walnut or some other matching or contrasting wood? I have a pair of L1290 I need to reveneer, and was planning to make real wod bases for them.
Click to expand...


Very hard to get solid woods right now in my area. All of the nicer lumber yards for finish work are closed until further notice.
 
Tiver said:
After looking at the bottoms on @GD70 restoration, I had to go and look at the bottoms on mine. I thought the opening looked smaller than it did on mine. How could that small an opening allow speaker wire hook up without base removal?

Here is a picture of the bottom on one of mine....there are 4 extra screw holes because the bases had actually split and the PO just put in different screws. I repaired the base and used the original holes.
View attachment 1879901



That's a decent idea. The contrasting, black painted MDF is nice looking on its own, but a plywood base with a perimeter wrap of a matching wood species could be very nice as well. It would be easy enough to make.


Spikes could easily be added to the original or fabricated bases as well.
Click to expand...

They could be made from Color-Thru MDF so there's minimal finishing. A few coats of lacquer or urethane to finish.



Coloured-MDF.png
 
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