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AK Design Collaborative - Insignia-Class Economy Speakers (a.k.a Indignia)

Drawn to this forum/build from the link on the PE site. Considering these for side and rear surrounds in a HT application. I searched and really didn't come up with anyone using these for surrounds in the thread. I have a 14x19x8 room, B&W N804 fronts, HTM2 center, and a DIY Sub. Powering everything with a B&K 317 Reciever. Anyone tried these in surround positions?
 
I think the only downside to using them for surrounds would be that they are somewhat inefficient. That won't be a problem if you aren't trying to drive them to high levels (>100 dB?). Running them as "small" to redirect the deep bass to the subwoofer might help (at high SPL) but that kind of defeats the purpose of the design which is to get relatively deep bass from a relatively small box.

At lower volumes they should work just fine.
 
That makes sense. Still, I will be running them in Small mode but the cross will be down in the 80 range. Nice clean midbass would be a good thing too. It is pretty amazing what the curve looks like on these all the way down to 20. I've really not stumbled across any promising DIY projects for surrounds. Maybe you could direct me to a design more suitable? I really appreciate the help.
 
Just cut the wood for my project. These are a lot bigger than I thought! Though my design is a big bulky with up to 3" thick walls in places.
 
Bullitt5094 said:
That makes sense. Still, I will be running them in Small mode but the cross will be down in the 80 range. Nice clean midbass would be a good thing too. It is pretty amazing what the curve looks like on these all the way down to 20. I've really not stumbled across any promising DIY projects for surrounds. Maybe you could direct me to a design more suitable? I really appreciate the help.
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I did the Mindignias specifically as surrounds to match the Indignias as mains. You can search back through this thread for them. If you can't find it I'll look it up. There is a center channel to match, too.
 
RayW said:
I did the Mindignias specifically as surrounds to match the Indignias as mains. You can search back through this thread for them. If you can't find it I'll look it up. There is a center channel to match, too.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply.

I did a search on the Mindignias and found this post on the bottom of pg 77 http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=160535&highlight=baffle+layout&page=77 which mainly says to use a .25cf enclosure, the components of the CC and modify the XO to lower the output of the tweet. Is there a build thread on this by any chance?


The Minis could be a good solution but unless there is some better dispersion, or other sonic reason that make them superior over the full size, it would make more sense to me to stick with the tried and true full size version. I don't have a space problem and I may go crazy sometime and do the high/wide 9.1 thing in the HT. If the Indignais work as well as advertised, they would be an economical/acceptable partner to work with my N804s/HTM2 front array. I've been looking at the B&W DS3B for the sides and just can't make myself spend $850 a copy for them. I'n not that big a movie sound person! I have two B&W 602s thrown on the floor in the rear of the room right now and don't feel I'm missing too much even now.
 
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There wasn't a build thread for them, just the post about the center channel and then a subsequent one with mods to the XO for the Mini version.

I didn't measure dispersion on them but I have no reason to believe they would be much different than the Indignias. They're just a smaller, less expensive option. Mine are currently the front speakers in a smallish A/V system in my kids' room and they perform well there.

If space and the price difference aren't an issue then I'd go with the original Indignias.

They sure do work as advertised. :D
 
Just placed the order with PE. Went with the curved cherry cabinets to somewhat match my curved cherry 804s.
n804.jpg

I also bought a pair of the 1.5" flared tubes 260-402 but there may not be enough space on the baffle for the flair. Will moving the tube center slightly be a bad thing?
Also bought two of the 2-way XO project boards 260-130. Looks like there will be some extra components to mount on it but it may make things easier. We'll see.
Going to go warm-up the router now... :thmbsp:
 
IIRC with flared ports you'll have to add some length to get the same tuning. It will tell you how much per flair in the package.
 
Bullitt5094 said:
I also bought a pair of the 1.5" flared tubes 260-402 but there may not be enough space on the baffle for the flair. Will moving the tube center slightly be a bad thing?
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Nah, you'll be fine. The reason for the standardized layout was so that people without experience doing it would have a guide. I wouldn't change the tweeter-woofer distance as that will affect the crossover, but moving other things around should be ok.
 
Thanks and thanks. Both responses will be helpful. Sure didn't know about the need to extend the length when using the flair, but that certainly makes sense. I'll be sure to keep the speaker positions the same too.
I don't think I've seen polyfil mentioned. Any lining or stuffing recommended?
 
Parts out for delivery today. Really interested to know first what the PE enclosure looks like and then get to work so I can audition the animal.
 
Stuff showed up today and looks great. I'm very impressed with the enclosure look and quality.
As stated earlier I bought some flared 1.5" ports to use. Seems that the flair necessitates a lengthening of the tube as posted previously. A review on the part said to add 1/4" for the flair. It also stated the tube was 1-9/16 instead of 1-1/2 (which I've confirmed) and suggested adding an additional inch in length to compensate for the 1/16" ID difference. Does this sound right? I know the port in a small enclosure is pretty critical and want to get the tuning correct before I glue this thing in.
 
The conventional wisdom is that the straight tube length plus the flare radius equals the effective length for a port flared on both ends, or plus 1/2 the flare radius for a port flared at one end. As for the 1/16" diameter difference, I'm not going to do the simulation or the math at the moment, but somebody can.
 
That sounds reasonable. BB6 says going up to 1 9/16" means going up a little over 3/4" in length but going a full inch will make <1Hz difference in tuning so don't sweat it.
 
Hey guys. My PE order of Indignia parts should get to my house today. I'm wondering if anyone could share drawings of cabinets they built for this project.
 
I played with positioning these enclosures on the wall and really don't like how far they stick out. I'm curious as to how much the sound would be changed if I used the same baffle, but made the enclosure 6" deep. then made the back wider and flared the sides from the front to the back like most side di-pole surrounds are designed. I would try to maintain the correct enclosure volume and port tube length. More or less wedged shaped.
Any other design suggestions/configurations to make them not as deep, but maintain the SQ for the side surround position hanging on a wall?
 
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