Hey @Sinder, yes the syscon board will be reworked as well and yes with the same effort but I won't start anything else until the preamp board is back in and tested. Since you also do this type of work, do you see anything I haven't done that could make an improvement?
" Outhouse" style..Shitty transistors..
Ironically @avionic , I happened to be in the doghouse at the time I typed that, that's probably why I said dog house and not shithouse or out house style, That's at least the explanation I'm sticking with of course it'd probably just be easier to say i had a brain fart and couldn't remember the word "Out House."
What did you do now..
The usual, my hearing becomes selective when certain requests are made in certain ways, you know, that ole song n dance!What did you do now..
Hi Steve, not yet. You are in the electrical conversions. In the Syscon you can replace all of the Greatz rectifiers. Then take higher dimensioned components. Or e.g. for D1 / D9 BWY74 / 76. Don't forget C46. For the change of both trimmers 9.525 and 19.05 cm / s to 5 K, I will report later for the correct series resistors.
What looks cheap?
So I’m understanding you correctly, the “blue” trimmers look cheap because they’re dimensionally wrong and they’re raised up off the board because of the dimensional difference and being super hard to solder in because of that, and the fact I didn’t spray conformal coating on the board afterwards. Or is it the two wires I didn’t solder onto the board. I’m very open to constructive criticism and I’m sensing we may have a bit of a language barrier that must be overcame. I’m trying very hard to understand what exactly it is that I did or am doing that you’re not liking. You keep using the words “be professional” and I’m just not quite sure how to take your comments at the moment. Like I said, I’m very open to constructive criticism, if it’s the blue bourn trimmers that you don’t like and know of something that would work better then by all means give me the dimensions and product name and I will change them all out to what you suggest. If you think it looks more professional to spray conformal coating I have one problem with that (spraying it before testing) if there’s a problem that I need to re address on the board then it’s much harder to remove a component once conformal coating has been applied rather than before the coating has been applied. I have conformal coating but I’m not at that point yet and I do not always use conformal coating on every job I do. Thank you again for your insight @Sinder and I’m looking forward to your clarification.
Please understand I took no offense to what you were saying or have said, I merely could not understand exactly what you were getting at (like I said probably a language barrier) anyhow, I don’t have your level of experience in this work only a few years so I am always learning something new everyday. I appreciate you sharing your expertise with me, I noticed in your pictures that you also had your trimmers soldered on the mask side of the board rather than the component side. My reasoning was this, yes you can make adjustments from the inside cavity of the amp board, but how much easier would it be if the trim pots were on the mask side where it’s super easy to access them and be able to make fine adjustments without pulling wires or connectors loose accidentally (my hands are big) that’s my reasoning for placing the trimmers on the mask side rather than component side. Also, I mentioned in my first post in this thread that I have done RTR restorations but I have never restored an Akai GX635D so this is somewhat new territory to me. I would like to do the upmost professional job possible with this machine so any tips tricks or better ways of doing things I’m definitely all ears! I do appreciate your feedback! I’m not working by any standard, I am merely working by logical thinking and approach. I would give anything to have the countless years of experience you find on AudioKarma. I can only hope to one day be as good as the folks here on this site, I aspire everyday to learn from and create my own style though maybe a little unorthodox, I do try. Please feel free at any point to step in and offer advice as I am still a blank canvas somewhat and a sponge when learning. Although it may seem unorthodox to place the trimmers on the mask side, I reordered the piher 10% 10mm trim pots so that they would look more professional in place of the blue trimmers.
What I was saying exactly is that you are doing the same work in your pictures as I plan on doing to this machine and I wanted to see if you could provide me with a parts list or exactly which components you changed out and their locations. I can do the work myself that’s not a problem, I just want to make sure that I build this machine pretty much like the one in your pictures using the same value components you’ve used. This is my first 635 restoration and if I’m going to do a full restoration and document it here on AK then I want to make sure that I’ve done the necessary component changes that are necessary which I see you’ve done. You have a lot of component changes judging by your pictures. I would just like a list of the changes if you could possibly provide me with that. I want anyone who reads this thread to see the success and failures that I will encounter but at the end if they use this thread as a guide then they too will be able to update their machine much like you’re doing and I want to do. Thank you, if you need anymore clarification please let me know. I’m not looking to copy you but rather make any necessary changes in order to enhance this machine to its best ability.
Well I have a question @Sinder, is that a gx635D in your photos with a digital counter and did that come standard on that machine Or is that your creation? Really nice work, also, what’s with all the black foam around the mechanical cavity is that for sound deadening or did that too come as part of the Original machine. Seems I have so much to learn about these machines it’s mind boggling to think about.
