Akai GX-635D full restoration

[Sinder]

Hello Steve, now I understand everything correctly.
I could read and translate your last two entries well.

I don't have a parts list as such. I followed the circuit diagram.
I myself chose Elna Silmic Gold on the audio board.
Experiments with others, Panasonic, Nichicon Audio FG, result in these beautifully clear mids and very light frequency emphasis around 15-20kHz.
Coupling capacitors Wima Folie. In Wima Styroflex equalizer networks. Headphone amplifier Philipps polypropylene.
I also installed Philipps capacitors measured in pairs.

At the time, these were recommended to me by a Mr. Burmester from Berlin at the radio exhibition.

In general, all coupling capacitors or areas used in frequency-influencing areas are measured in pairs.
Power supply Elna Cerafine. Additional 2.5mm² power supply from the Syscon to the audio board.

Components all ordered from Mouser USA.

Yes, the chassis is covered with alubutyl, in addition to soundproofing against drive noises of the mechanics with fire-resistant insulation for air conditioning systems.

Extra tip: large relay coils on the chassis become quieter in operation if a little silicone spray is applied to the pistons. (Pause / FF / FRWD)

Counter is self-made. Originally it is like you.

Greetings Andre

 

[SteveHammond]

Hello Steve, now I understand everything correctly.
I could read and translate your last two entries well.

I don't have a parts list as such. I followed the circuit diagram.
I myself chose Elna Silmic Gold on the audio board.
Experiments with others, Panasonic, Nichicon Audio FG, result in these beautifully clear mids and very light frequency emphasis around 15-20kHz.
Coupling capacitors Wima Folie. In Wima Styroflex equalizer networks. Headphone amplifier Philipps polypropylene.
I also installed Philipps capacitors measured in pairs.

At the time, these were recommended to me by a Mr. Burmester from Berlin at the radio exhibition.

In general, all coupling capacitors or areas used in frequency-influencing areas are measured in pairs.
Power supply Elna Cerafine. Additional 2.5mm² power supply from the Syscon to the audio board.

Components all ordered from Mouser USA.

Yes, the chassis is covered with alubutyl, in addition to soundproofing against drive noises of the mechanics with fire-resistant insulation for air conditioning systems.

Extra tip: large relay coils on the chassis become quieter in operation if a little silicone spray is applied to the pistons. (Pause / FF / FRWD)

Counter is self-made. Originally it is like you.

Greetings Andre

Is there anyway you could provide a layout and schematic for the counter, that would make an awesome addition to this machine. I understand now why you insulate and the reasoning for the silicon spray. I have a lot of questions for you for sure.

 

[Sinder]

No, there is no circuit diagram or layout for the meter. This is only available as a finished product. Later for a possible sale with installation instructions and all 3D printing. It is a completely in-house development. At the moment there are 3 Akai GX 635 and a Technics 1506 with automatic time change when speed changes. These have been installed and compared by me.

 

[SteveHammond]

No, there is no circuit diagram or layout for the meter. This is only available as a finished product. Later for a possible sale with installation instructions and all 3D printing. It is a completely in-house development. At the moment there are 3 Akai GX 635 and a Technics 1506 with automatic time change when speed changes. These have been installed and compared by me.

what would the cost be to order one for my machine that I could install myself?

 

[SteveHammond]

Well, after some common sense and some advice from @Sinder, I put the Trimpots back on the component side of the board. I know some of you are reading this shaking your head thinking to yourself (this guys a real bone head.) that’s probably true, sometimes creation and innovation just doesn’t work. I also replaced Tr-15 which was a 2SD571 with a KSC1008Cyta C as you all know means that the collector is in the center mostly for those of you who didn’t know that. So this is how far I got today with having other things that had to be done around the homestead. It’s been a hectic and heartbreaking day but tomorrow will hopefully be more fruitful in this endeavor. I just hope that whoever reads this thread will not make the same mistakes as me. That’s all for today folks. I hope you all enjoy the pics.

p.s. the 30K no one has so I have to order them from of all places, eBay!

 

[Sinder]

....Tr-15 which was a 2SD571 with a KSC1008Cyta C as you all know means that the collector is in the center mostly for those of you who didn’t know that. ....

p.s. the 30K no one has so I have to order them from of all places, eBay!

do you mean the TR 13? I would swap both VR5 / VR6 in the headphone amplifier area for the sensitivity of the VU meters. The current installed ones are difficult to adjust. Or do you have a matching set?
You can put all other trimmers in the middle. To get used to. Otherwise, it can happen that a power may be too large for a base. As a result, secondary errors or dead transistors can occur in an Indian way.

 

[SteveHammond]

do you mean the TR 13? I would swap both VR5 / VR6 in the headphone amplifier area for the sensitivity of the VU meters. The current installed ones are difficult to adjust. Or do you have a matching set?
You can put all other trimmers in the middle. To get used to. Otherwise, it can happen that a power may be too large for a base. As a result, secondary errors or dead transistors can occur in an Indian way.

Sorry but I don’t understand what you’re saying. And I mean TR-15 it was a 2SD571 it’s on the amp board.

 

[SteveHammond]

Pics of the teardown.

 

[SteveHammond]

More pics

 

[SteveHammond]

Even more

 

[SteveHammond]

Last ones

 

[SteveHammond]

Oops, I forgot a couple.

 

[SteveHammond]

So I’ve run into a problem, I’d like to replace TR13 2SC2336 but obtaining any sort of replacement has been futile as has been the same for the 2SC106 T, 2SD794, as well as the 20 and 50k trimmers on the syscon board. I have 1 burnt relay FRL-264 D024/04CL-01 p/n.) I’m also curious on wether or not to update D1,3,9,50 and CR1-14. Should I replace these or leave them be also the motor run capacitor does one generally replace or stuff the can with separate electrolytic caps. Since this is a full restoration I feel that some of these parts especially the 2SC2336 which I’ve read is a good idea to replace. Also, I’ve scoured mouser, digikey, and even fleabay to no avail. I’m really concerned with how I’m going to go about finding a replacement for the burnt relay on the syscon board seeing as how I can’t seem to find a replacement. Now that I have it completely disassembled it is the perfect time to tidy up the entire unit wiring as it’s an absolute mess. Complete disassembly actually wasn’t planned but rather a necessary evil to clean the smoke covered dust which is actually a sticky hard to clean residue from various sections of the chassis and syscon board. In hind sight it might have been more advantageous to disassemble a little here and reassemble after cleaning BUT, call me mr hard way as that’s the way I seem to operate (geez, Mr hard way! I missed the boat on a good name in the porn industry......) back to the task at hand, it’s time to phone a friend in this post for advice on the above mentioned components. Please keep in mind I really don’t wanna change any unnecessary components which may jeopardize the integrity of this very nice machine. Also, as a final thought to anyone reading this for advice I absolutely do not advise disassembling the entire unit all at once just to clean, there are much better methods of doing that job without completely tearing the whole unit apart. At least I documented everything I took apart for reassembly which will be done tomorrow as I don’t want too much time to pass as train of thought and memory only last so long. And I guess this unit won’t get a digital counter as I really wished I could’ve made that happen.......if only I were a real EE.........

 

[Sinder]

Hi Steve
don't throw the shotgun in the grain.
When you have all the documents, you can put the device back together. If necessary, I look to see if I still have photos in my collection that show details.
On Monday, the day after replacement, I look at parts and components that fit. My documents with the notes are there.
For the TR 13 2sc 2336B you can use a MJE 13007. Check D9 Greatz (SVB10-200) right away. It's best to switch with. And dimension larger from the electrical values. You can install the TR 13 from the cooling plate below to the cooling plate above under the transformer.
Relay burned: contacts or coil itself?
Contacts: carefully disassemble, clean. When the contacts are burned: replace CR capacitors. All! You can also equip them individually: 100nF 220V AC withstand voltage + 100 Ohm / 1W in series. Every CR.
Motor capacitors at the Syscon: Comply with the installed values. You can also assemble the capacity from two parallel ones.
If more Kapa comes together, the tape tension increases during play. Motors will also get warmer. Therefore, stick to the built-in capacity.

Everything else later, go to the beach now. Water is already 8 degrees Celsius. Don't need to give up.

And if all strands really break, you don't get it yourself at some point, but you want to keep it, you send it to Germany.
Take a day off, then put new energy on the device.
I've been doing this for over 35 years. Steve already does it!

 

[Sinder]

Hi Steve, I just had my English text translated back into German. Horrible. But somehow we are communicating. Best regards

 

[Sinder]

TR 13 2SC2336

https://www.reichelt.com/de/en/transistor-2sc-2336-npn-180-v-1-5-a-to-220-sc-2336-p16464.html

 

[SteveHammond]

Hi Steve, I just had my English text translated back into German. Horrible. But somehow we are communicating. Best regards

.

Ich bin Deutscher und spreche leicht fließend Deutsch, wenn Sie mir nur eine Nachricht auf Deutsch senden möchten.

 

[Sinder]

Hallo Steve, deutscher, was bedeutet dein Ortsangabe beim Avatar? Das ist an einem Feldrand im Irak. Bist du dort oder warst du dort? 33°53′N 45°4′E / 33.883°N 45.067°E

 

[SteveHammond]

Hallo Steve, deutscher, was bedeutet dein Ortsangabe beim Avatar? Das ist an einem Feldrand im Irak. Bist du dort oder warst du dort? 33°53′N 45°4′E / 33.883°N 45.067°E

Ich wurde 2006 in den Irak in die Provinz Diyala entsandt und das zeigt mein Avatar

 

[Sinder]

Okay, ich kenne einige Kollegen die in Masar-i Scharif, Camp Erbil und anderen Orten waren oder sind. Mehr Infos kommen nicht.
Lass uns wieder zur Tagesordnung übergehen: Wie weit bist du mit deinem Gerät?
Ich kann dir zur 635 nur von Bildern oder Unterlagen und Wissenstand helfen. Beide Geräte wurden verkauft. Habe jetzt nur noch die 747 mit LED.
Bilder von der Techncs, GX 77, 270 oder anderen Geräten, egal welcher Art sind nur im Zuge der Revision oder Restaurierung gemacht. Diese Videos und Bilder wurden den jeweiligen Besitzern von mir vorgeschlagen. Dann immer wieder gewünscht.
In den Plänen meiner ehemaligen 635 sind viele Anmerkungen, Abgleichhinweise und sonstige Memos enthalten. Mein Service Manual ist komplett in Deutsch und HiRes PDF.
Desweiteren hatte ich die letzte Probehalber mit einem P4 500 und einem R4 242 ausgestattet. Hervoragende Aufnahmen und Wiedergaben. Bei Verkauf wieder ausgebaut, da ich diese Eigenschaften nicht mit angegeben hatte.

Okay, wir machen weiter mit deiner Maschine.

Grüße aus Deutschland