• Please note that Audiokarma will be offline briefly for updates early on Monday morning, September 28th.

An 8 track player I'd never thought I'd own

Nice unit, I haven’t had an 8-track in a long time. If you’re gonna have an 8-track, it might as well be one of the best ones; yours looks substantial.

Had a nice Akai quad machine that was a pretty serious unit, they claimed 30-16k or some such. Accidentally got left in my storage locker when I moved. Looked like this one, but this one isn’t mine, I just scavenged the pic lol

IMG_3112.jpeg
 
The Wollensak is generally considered "better" than the Akai's, but only by a marginal amount. The only place the Wolly isn't considered "better" than the akai's is with regards to the motor. The Akai's use (so I've read) a fairly large AC motor. The Wollensak's use a DC motor that has been reported to be a bit on the weak side and somewhat failure prone.

The Ac motors are freq locked to the mains and require pulley changes to affect speed corrections, the DC motor in the Wolly is adjustable by a VR pot. If an Akai is running slow and it's not the belt or a leaking run/start capacitor, it's the motor itself. If The wolley runs slow (or fast) a twiddle on the vr may bring it back in.

Which is actually "better" is kind of a worthless argument with everything over 40 years old by now. In theory, the AC motor should be better (torque) and should stand up to aging better than a DC motor with it's commutator brushes that wear with use.

My Wolley 8075 was exhibiting motor issues that seems to be typical of them as they age. That was until I took it apart, cleaned the internals and soaked the bronze end bushings in oil. Now, it runs strong enough to fight my hand trying to slow it down. I suspect a lot of Wollensak DC motors that were condemned were actually just in need of a servicing, something that a lot of people just don't want to do because everything inside a motor case is on the order of "black magic" to them. The Wolley motor is even more "black magic" because it has a speed sensing section on the back of it too. I believe it varies the torque according to load sensing, which is why it "fights back" when I try to slow it down by grabbing the pulley.

Then there's the general specs of both. The 8075 has it over the CR-81d pretty much everywhere other than 15 khz vs 16 khz. But it's all pretty close and in practice, probably not even noticeable. I'd be pretty skeptical if someone said they can hear that 1 khz difference, even more so if they're over 50 years old. Which, frankly, captures virtually all of the demographic that still fool around with 8 tracks these days.

Akai CR-81D specs:

Frequency Response: 50Hz to 16kHz
Signal to Noise Ratio: 47dB
Wow and Flutter: 0.35%
Total Harmonic Distortion: 4%

Wollensak 8075 specs:

freq response: 30hz-15khz (with Scotch special tape)
signal to noise ratio;
wow and flutter: 0.1%
Harm distortion:
Dolby off - better than 50
Dolby on: better than 60 at 4000hz and above, better than 59 at 2400hz, BT 5 at 1200hz, BT 53 q5 600hz.

The Wollensak has Dolby B, which makes for better SNR over the Akai's. Even without Dolby, the 8075 is better spec than the Akai. I used to think like most that Dobly wasn't of much use and it just makes things sound "dull' until I got a proper Dolby deck and a good Dolby recorded tape. It was actually another 8 track deck, my superscope TDR-830 and Rush: Farewell to KIngs taht was factory recorded in Dolby. I Flicked on Dolby and the tape hiss pretty much just dissappeared. It was marvelous! No tape hiss on magnetic tape! Dolby is a dead format, but I find myself trying to maximize it's use on tape now. It actually works when it's used the way it was intended.

Those max high freq numbers are pretty much moot though. The real limitation is the tape formulation and 8 rack tape tops out at 12 khz. You only got up into the 15/16khz range using "wide range" tape formulations. They didn't make a lot of that because most machines didn't reach that high, so there's not a lot of it around anymore. You can still find it, but it' not common and it's all 40+ years old at this point anyways.

8 track just didn't get the development dollars compact cassettes did, so they're all stuck in the early "type I" tape formulations, which is the primary upper freq response limitations that have to deal with. For the same reason, not many consumer recorders were designed to use anything much over 12khz.

There's also the fact that those are "new" specs and anything 8 track has got a good 40 years of aging and use on it. So what any one particular machine is actually doing for specs is anyone's guess.

8 Track is a "lo-fi" format. But that's a part of it's charms. Once you've got a decent player and rebuilt the carts, it's a simple jam the cart in it's pie hoe and let it run. No muss, no fuss. And it can actually sound surprisingly good once everything is "up to snuff". It's not CD, Vinyl or even compact cassette, but get it right and it's surprisingly warm. It's even comforting if you went through the 8 track era. I and the signal through a 10 band EQ and a BBE 482i and it is surprisingly good.

"Boston" is meant to be on 8 track to my ear. It just fits better than CD or vinyl. Can't explain it, it just sounds better to me for whatever reason. Maybe it's just nostalgia for a dead format.


"Kerchunk"

It's the groovy sounds of the 70's man! Yeah baby!


;)
 
Last edited:
Got the bulk from an antique shop that closed up, OBM. Owner died.

And through the years at garage sales...only looking for the "cherries".

Had a first year gen Camaro with an orig GM player, and having the space in the Cave, but not anymore, so will have to part with the rest.

Q
 
Last edited:
First replacement lever made:

IMG_9670.jpeg

Test fit:

IMG_9668.jpeg

IMG_9669.jpeg

Excellent.

It works the switch mechanism fine even before the application of the epoxy to fix it in place.

I did go a little “overboard” on easing the edge over, but I’m not sure I want to bother with making another to replace that one. I think you’d have to be looking pretty close to even notice.

2 more to go….:)
 
All done:

fr_5886.jpg

fr_5887.jpg

Looks pretty damned good if I do say so myself!

Especially considering how it looked when I started:

1.png

next up is to blast the capstan and then back into the case. I think I'm just going to black woodgrain vinyl wrap the case for now. Like on the 8080DB:

fr_5483.jpg

It's quick and easy way to clean up the looks until I decide what to do with it and have the time to do it right.

:)
 
So on to the finishing bits. Pulled the belts and then capstan. Out to the shop and a quick "sandblast" to restore the finish. All cleaned up post blast and a little cleaning up of the flywheel belt surface. Just a light sanding with 1200 grit to remove some roughness in spots. Not removing any material, just knocking down the roughness (IE: wow and flutter). Then back together it all goes.

I also learned long ago that RCA jacks on vintage gear is just a hum/buzz waiting to happen. No matter how much you clean them, there's always some corrosion/tarnish/schmutz in there waiting to get you chasing your tail looking for "system noise". So now I just yank 'em for new. The 8075 gets the same treatment:

fr_5901.jpg

It's so easy to do on the Wolly, it's almost like they planned for them to be replaced at some point.

That done, its on to the case itself. Nothing extravagant, I'm just going to vinyl wrap it for now. I'm just looking to get it to "respectable" appearance wise. first use a little spot filler to fill some damage and build up some beat corners:

fr_5898.jpg

with that all cleaned up, apply the first piece of black woodgrain vinyl and trim to fit:

fr_5899.jpg

That's the easy piece. The ends take a bit more thinking and fitting/trimming:

fr_5900.jpg

With that done, back into the house and refit the main unit to the box:

fr_5902.jpg

fr_5903.jpg

fr_5904.jpg

You'll notice a bubble" here and there at corners. This vinyl needs to relax a bit before the adhesive will hold properly. In an hour or so I'll smooth them out and they will stick in place.

Is it perfect?

Well, no. It's not.

Is it perfectly respectable?

Well yes, yes it is. It will look even more so once it's on the shelf in the cabinet where most of the case will never been seen.

I'll probably do something nicer for a case in the future, but I've just had enough of it for now and it's time to let it spool tape!

"Kerchunk!"

:)
 
Last edited:
Wolly in its spot and playing RUSH:

IMG_9690.jpeg

I have to build a shelf to go between the wolly and the superscope and it will have to come out for another adjustment as I’m still getting some cross talk on silent passages.
 
Whoops. Spoke too soon. No sooner had I hit “post” on the last message, the Wolly dropped the left channel.

Oh well, out it will come again.

Just another one of the joys of vintage audio…
 
I like the work you have done and all the pictures you have provided to document your work. Nice. Very nice.

"Kerchunk" :thumbsup:
 
Ah, so it appears that the left drop out is a head travel alignment issue.

Some tracks play fine, some drop the left channel and still getting faint cross talk (which I thought might just be some print through). Seems fairly consistent that program four drops the left channel, which sort of points me toward sticking head travel.

Too late tonight to so any more. So tomorrow I’ll get back into it and strip, clean, lubricate and realign the head mechanism and see what I get.
 
Oh yeah, the head is off for sure.

I can play program 1 first song on the TDR-830, pull the cart and put it in the Wollensak and set to program 4 it plays program 1 first song but drops the left channel.

That head is waaaaaay out.

At least thats an easy fix. Also explains the odd cross-talk effect I was getting on the Wollensak.
 
That Wollensak looks lovely, especially your remade switch toggles. Do love me some 8 track action.

I have approximately 2 and three quarter Akai CR-83Ds. One is complete, one is complete minus the motor and lid, and one is a bare chassis, boards, and a front panel. Unfortunately I have only one motor between the three of them, and the one guy who has the entire collection new old stock motors changed his mind about selling them, otherwise my second one would be up and running too.

The complete one works after a good clean, new belts, and a bit of tweaking.

506395192_10225863167311157_4755435542618661757_n.jpg

Also have an absolutely mint Panasonic RQ-8 portable ex Japan. It's in such tidy condition that I'm considering buying a second one (or the US market equivalent) to modify.
 
Yea, I have a couple more as well.

Superscope TDR830:

IMG_9623.jpeg

Panasonic RS-806US:


IMG_9547.jpeg

Wynford Hall Quad:

IMG_5952.jpeg

And a few other “off brand” ones:

IMG_5968.jpeg

8 track is the affordable audio segment. Cheap and fun to play around with. Not exactly “hi-fi”, but they can still be made to sound good enough to have a little fun with.
 
Aha! Turns out I’ve been “rope a doped” by some previous owner/tech.

What they had done is rotate the program indicator to light up for what they thought was the right track.

The Wolley has enough head adjustment to go fully to the program on either side of the program that should be playing. But when you do that, it will miss either a left or right channel.

So they adjusted for what they thought was the correct head alignment.

Turns out it was not.

I found it by selecting a track, then adjusting head hieght to both extremes. Of the three programs you could adjust it to, only the middle program plays both channels properly. The upper and lower adjustments all drop either the left of right channel because they won’t align with the head sensors properly.

So I adjusted for mid range travel (IE: the proper track) and both channels play perfectly on all four programs. The program indicator light is off by one program now, but that’s a simple set screw and turn the light switch back to where it should be.

Vintage audio: ya never know what yer gonna get!

Lol.
 
Mines on the way, should be here Thursday ;)
Awesome.

Compared to my Superscope TDR-830, the sound is "crisper". The TDR seems to have a bit fuller lower end and sounds best with the EQ and 482i in the loop. The Wolly can do the same with either just the EQ or the 482i in the loop, but it just sounds fantastic with both.

Where the Wolly really has it over the Superscope is the eject/repeat functions. The Superscope you have to make do with pause and pulling the cart yourself. It also won't stop at the foil splice like the Wolly will.

The TDR also only goes to 10khz, where the Wolly does 12khz on normal tape and 16 khz with special tape. Most good players will reproduce 12khz on normal tape. Only Wollensak and Akai went higher than 12khz.

The Wolly is big too. About 16 inches wide. It also has a very "quality" feel. Both in handling the controls and it's operation. Well, quality compared to other 8 track units that is. Compared to good audio gear, it feels like it belongs there rather than a "slap dash thing" that most 8 track units are.

I have noticed on odd behavior. I've got a Boston cart that plays well on the TDR. Pop it in the Wolly and it warbles. It is a TC8 cart, which can be problematic at the best of times. I've re-tentioned the tape pack, inserted a low friction spacer under the reel and even gone so far as to lubricate the roller post with graphite. The warble decreased, but it's still there. Again, plays fine on the TDR. So it seems the the Wolly might be a little more sensitive to carts that aren't quite "up to snuff". I'm going to pull the pinch roller in that cart and drop it in Rubber Renue again, but this time give it a couple hours and see if it helps. The roller is firm, but still has a little give. Maybe it needs to be softened a little more.

Be warned that the 8075 has a rep for weak motors. The only replacements I know of are from "Barry's 8 track", but I don't think he sells just the motors any longer. I think now you have to send him the whiole unit for a rebuild.

Oh, also be ready for the "eject" function when you hit the switch. It doesn't just "pop" the cart, it damned near shoots it across the room! LOL!

My Wollensak 8075 isn't going to replace the Superscope TDR-830, but they do compliment each other nicely.
 
Last edited:
Mines on the way, should be here Thursday ;)
One last thing I'll add if the Wolly's weight. While it's got a bit of "heft" to it, it's not overly heavy.

But a fair bit of that weight seems to be fairly forward, towards the face plate. I had it slip in my hands once and it immediately took a nose dive, face down, towards the floor. I got a hold of it before it left my hands, but I suspect that's how the switch levers were broken off in the first place.

So be careful when handling it that it doesn't slip from your grasp because if it does it may very well hit the floor face first and break off those "irreplaceable" switch levers.
 
Last edited:
The one I bought is per the pictures and the description in “excellent cosmetic condition” I fully expect some issues with it though as it’s built in to the age of the unit. I do have the service manual and intend to take it slow to begin as I suss it out. I may post pics and questions but I don’t want to confuse one of your threads again so I will start my own thread. Please feel free to chime in to help if you like:beerchug:
 
The one I bought is per the pictures and the description in “excellent cosmetic condition” I fully expect some issues with it though as it’s built in to the age of the unit. I do have the service manual and intend to take it slow to begin as I suss it out. I may post pics and questions but I don’t want to confuse one of your threads again so I will start my own thread. Please feel free to chime in to help if you like:beerchug:
How much did they squeeze you for that?

Mine ended up being a few bucks over 200 cdn. That was including shipping.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom