C6Bill
Super Member
You might find these screws easier to work with
https://www.sound-smith.com/accessories/ez-mount-cartridge-screws
https://www.sound-smith.com/accessories/ez-mount-cartridge-screws
Any of you have trouble aligning a cartridge?
- Thread starter thared33
- Start date
I've used your method many times. Very simple, and thank you.
The bitch of it is, I'm always second-guessing. It isn't like some confetti shoots out of a cannon, announcing, "Hey, you got it correct!!"
Usually, I futz with it until I get frustrated, and then just go with what I have. I always seem to hit both null points on my mirrored thing I bought of e-prey.
I think the other bitch of it is, there's not really a right/wrong, within reason. Hence so many different ways to do it. Me, I DESPISE IGD. Kills the mood. Anyone know the best way to avoid IGD in regard to the alignment method?? (Baerwald, Stevenson, Stravinsky, Popeye?) p.s. two of those are fake, as if....
I know what you mean about frustration. I set the alignment, azimuth, arm parallel to record surface, tracking force --- then listen to an album I know well. Listen to the outer and inner tracks several times. If okay, I let sleeping dogs lie and try not to futz. "Trying" is the hardest part.
I like the round type nuts. Hold them with a flat edge screwdriver, while gently tightening the screw. These seem to interfere the least with the cartridge's body.
Good to see that your comments stay true to form, even on Christmas day.
Andre Garcia
“WITHOUT MUSIC, LIFE WOULD BE A MISTAKE”
I use fiber washers. As soon the nut get tight a little, stop it to spin allowing to tight from the screw only.
AG.
AG.
sqlsavior
Lunatic Member
Stevenson is the one with the second null point nearest the end of the record, and best for IGD. Most Japanese S-arms are made for a Stevenson alignment.
On a typical Technics type headshell, or a Dual sled, with a cart shaped like a classic Shure or similar, I find I can just hold the nut with my left index finger while I gently tighten the screw. Washers under the screw heads do make a world of difference about the cart not cocking when you snug them up however.
I too use the overhang gauges; I haven't noticed any issues. I suppose I *should* check with a protractor, but I just put away the Kennedy chest with all that stuff in it. (we're doing Christmas late this year; today is final cleaning and kids start showing up tomorrow.) I just bought a repro sled and two 12xx gauges from Best Audio by the way, and I would recommend them. The Pat's 101x sled that I bought ages ago when they were the only game in town works, but doesn't have the slots for the gauge, whereas the BA sleds are injection molded (not 3D printed) and look more original, and have both the groove to help you cue up on the front and also the 101x version has slots for the gauge. (I am going off their pictures, I did not buy the 101x version as I have several originals that I should repair "someday")
As for washers they should be M2.5 or #3 (about the same size) but typical M2.5 or #3 specs are larger OD than the ones that come with turntable hardware kits. I was OCD style searching because I wanted to get some more washers to use as spacers on XA headshells and found these (posted earlier in another thread) I think they're mil-spec #3 washers actually as I found these products which appear perfect.
https://www.mcmaster.com/90945A707
https://www.mcmaster.com/90945A708
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G4C9WZP (if you have Prime this is probably better than paying McMaster shipping costs, much as I love McMaster)
M2.5 screw OD = 2.5mm obviously (=0.0984")
#3-48 screw OD = .0990" = 2.5146mm
so they're basically interchangeable other than thread pitch which is something to be cognizant of when using headshells with fixed threads and not nuts...
A M2.5 washer will fit on a 3-48 machine screw; I tried. I measured the ones that come with the cartridge mounting screw kits at .190" with my HF calipers and the Mil-Spec #3s are nominal .180". This is why I think those are likely the washers included with the cartridge hardware kits. So I will probably order some after the holidays and neaten up my XA cart install. (I only have one original XA hardware kit but I found in my junk box a box of 3-48x1/2" SS fillister head screws and 3-48 SS nuts that I apparently bought from McMaster ages ago but for whatever reason I don't have any washers.)
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Fiber on the nut and stainless or brass on the head end? Good idea.
Damn you are right, I didn't catch that. All my hardware (eBay M2.5, McMaster and original AR XA 3-48) headshell screws are threaded up right to within a mm or two of the head. Can't tell if those are shoulder bolts or maybe those are spacers that should be removed?
Andre Garcia
“WITHOUT MUSIC, LIFE WOULD BE A MISTAKE”
I tried to void metals, but the screws. Aluminum is my favor.
Metal washer are overkill for the pressure applied. Think, as soon the screw felt tight you probably turn it a quater of a turn more and thats it.
The only one case that I used aluminum washer was on a pickering cart. The original screw are too thin for the headshell slots, so and adaptor was necesary to keep the screw head right on the middle.
AG.
sqlsavior
Lunatic Member
My first expensive cartridge after I got back into this hobby ten years ago was a Benz Micro Wood SM that I got at half list from 2juki. After aligning it with the Geo-Disc, and playing it a while, I noticed that all the surface noise seemed to be coming from the right channel. What followed was months of trying small variations in mounting, even including different azimuth settings, some purposely tilted, trying to get better sound. Some of this was motivated by a microscope inspection that revealed a little asymmetry. I finally went back to the Geo-Disc and reset it back to Baerwald. The oddity of the surface noise on one channel was gone. I have no idea if polishing it at a dozen orientations over months of playing helped it to sound normal, nor if a deal too good to be true meant it was a grey-market reject, or ...?
So, yeah, I've had trouble aligning a cartridge. Not so much getting it "right" as getting it optimized. Some manufacturers whose methods are not precise enough for uniformity even sell examples with high cross-talk measurements as lower models, I believe.
On the other hand, my SPU has no adjustments to make, and my Decca was easy as pie, and so obviously right that notions of fiddling were dismissed immediately.
So, yeah, I've had trouble aligning a cartridge. Not so much getting it "right" as getting it optimized. Some manufacturers whose methods are not precise enough for uniformity even sell examples with high cross-talk measurements as lower models, I believe.
On the other hand, my SPU has no adjustments to make, and my Decca was easy as pie, and so obviously right that notions of fiddling were dismissed immediately.
Bugetnirvana
Well-Known Member
Just as a follow up, I ordered the NAS620-C3 stainless washers off the Amazon link above on Friday, and they showed up today. Those are as stated above a mil-spec washer that has a smaller OD than either a M2.5 or standard #3 washer with a nominal OD of .180".
They look for all the world just like the ones in my little M2.5 hardware packs although I have not tried them yet, but it looks like that is the business if you need extra washers for whatever reason (shims, lost, whatever). Once I stop shuffling gear around I'm going to have to give my MA2002e bodies another try as I wrote two off as having a bad channel but while testing a turntable for sale I realized it was actually oxidized RCAs on my preamp.
