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AR TA single motor build; following the legends

I would recommend scuffing the primer with a red scotchbrite pad before the base coat, then make sure and clean it with a damp lint free cloth. It will give the base something to grab to.

After you scuff it, if there are not any noticeable scratches or pits you don't necessarily need filler primer. The self etching primer has a grainy texture, thats why I recommend smoothing it out because if you paint the base and its gloss without scuffing it, it will be textured.
 
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A red scotchbrite is very very fine, the paint will fill in the scratches. I scuffed the primer on mine prior to the base coat and the base filled it. Thats what they do in the auto body business after primer and before the base coat.

You can even scuff the base coat before the clear coat with a grey scotchbrite, now that leaves one nice looking finish.
 
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audi0n00b said:
@noisefreq where'd you get that arm rest? The top of it looks white which would be a great match. Also, what cart are you using?
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I had a fellow AK member make that for me,
a guy who went by ScaleAutoArt.
I don't think he is on AK anymore, hasn't been seen since Sept.2017.
Just as well, it was expensive and you can buy an replica XB tonearm rest on eBay within reason.
I painted the rest white bc it was copper from the maker.
Keep in mind the TA and the XB have different heights under the dust cover so I had to buy a different dust cover to fit it after the fact.
I ended up with a Sony dc that was pretty close.
IMG_20161128_072846.jpg
The cart is a Grace F9 that, incidentally is getting re-tipped as I write this.
The arm was rebuilt by our own Marc Morin using a Technics arm wand so it fits bayonet headshells.
The Grace on the AR is the best I've personally heard that I've owned.
 
Based on feedback from Marc Morin in the AR owners thread I’ve created some wood cutouts to go on the backside of the plate. Here’s a mock-up of the results. I’m undecided whether to layer this with a dampening material, either a spray or a sheet product.

@noisefreq I did order a rest similar to yours, but for an XA so I should not have the dust cover issue.
 

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Something I have always wondered about for damping is truck bed liner, its really thick, dense, and durable. You might could use some cork on the wood. You can buy a big 4ft by 2ft sheet at Staples near the bulletin boards. Its about 1/16" thick.
 
Isaac C. said:
Something I have always wondered about for damping is truck bed liner, its really thick, dense, and durable. You might could use some cork on the wood. You can buy a big 4ft by 2ft sheet at Staples near the bulletin boards. Its about 1/16" thick.
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It’s been done. I think I saw an AR with a Duraliner top plate. Either that or they painted the proto-duraliner that’s already there.
 
Isaac C. said:
Something I have always wondered about for damping is truck bed liner, its really thick, dense, and durable. You might could use some cork on the wood. You can buy a big 4ft by 2ft sheet at Staples near the bulletin boards. Its about 1/16" thick.
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here's the thing. the rubber mat may damp the noise you hear tamping on it. But does it stop the vibration into the top plate metal? that noise is best canceled by stiffening. as the top plate vibrates due to the mechanical noise induced by the motor, that noise gets to the studs. the UN-terminated end of the stud has to move laterally twice the distance as the terminated end. that noise is transferred
to the suspension spring where it travels up the spring, into the subchassis. if there is any difference in velocity in those springs, the platters and arm will be in a different velocity. which creates noise.
 
Anyone know where I can find weights to use for mass loading the chassis? I’ve scoured the internet and can’t find anything of much use. They’re either too large or too small. I’d prefer a solution using small weights similar to what I’ve seen in this thread. I’ve also seen small diameter lead wire which can be cut to achieve the desired weight. Anyone have experience with this?

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/ar-xa-sub-chassis-is-mass-loaded.542557/
 
audi0n00b said:
Anyone know where I can find weights to use for mass loading the chassis? I’ve scoured the internet and can’t find anything of much use. They’re either too large or too small. I’d prefer a solution using small weights similar to what I’ve seen in this thread. I’ve also seen small diameter lead wire which can be cut to achieve the desired weight. Anyone have experience with this?

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/ar-xa-sub-chassis-is-mass-loaded.542557/
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Dig back a few months in the AR owner's thread. I think someone used wheel weights with some success. I think Marc forges his own "pucks" from the same, or scrap, or the souls of his enemies.
 
zoombrewer77 said:
Dig back a few months in the AR owner's thread. I think someone used wheel weights with some success. I think Marc forges his own "pucks" from the same, or scrap, or the souls of his enemies.
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So...almost all of this came from that thread, that you posted. I'm an idiot.

The jury's out on if Marc weights his chassis with the souls of his enemies.
 
zoombrewer77 said:
So...almost all of this came from that thread, that you posted. I'm an idiot.

The jury's out on if Marc weights his chassis with the souls of his enemies.
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The problem I see with wheel weights is they are extremely low weight and would require way too many. I’m looking for something similar in size but heavier. I also don’t want to make my own being I’m not familiar with the process.
 
audi0n00b said:
The problem I see with wheel weights is they are extremely low weight and would require way too many. I’m looking for something similar in size but heavier. I also don’t want to make my own being I’m not familiar with the process.
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from that post back in 2013, i changed the way I added mass, and where. The mass center of gravity, in the horizontal is equal distance below the subchassis as the mass of the platters is above the subchassis

it's gonna take 3 1/2 pounds to 3 3/4 pounds of mass added to get the springs into proper compression height. no getting around that.
 
marcmorin said:
The mass center of gravity, in the horizontal is equal distance below the subchassis as the mass of the platters is above the subchassis.
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Can you explain a little more about this? Are you suggesting to add all the weight in the same place at the center of gravity? I have seen a post where someone did that.
 
What are thoughts on replacing the caps? I didn’t have any issues prior to tearing the table apart so should I leave them alone? Or replace them just based on age?
 
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