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Azimuth Adjustment for the rest of us?

The HFN analog test LP has a good azimuth setting track, which is kinda nifty and involves your output disappearing on mono when azimuth is set. It ain't s*%t and it doesn't cost $$$ and it sure has lots more very useful tracks, like anti-skate setup, phase test, RF and more.

The HFN is good. I also like to use the CBS test LPs as you can check azimuth by reading and comparing the L/R mV/dB readings at spot frequencies from 20 to 20kHz.
 
Yes, It probably would be but, you see I was only a CET and for a very short time and just don't have the knowledge to do so I'm afraid.
At my age sometimes it's just easier for me to do things the mechanical way instead of trying to learn something technical, specially
when I've forgotten just about everything I learned almost 20 years ago.But, I do appreciate your wanting to help sir. View attachment 1137098

It doesn't take any special knowledge to use an analog voltmeter and reading the analog display. It's actually easier than using a digital multimeter. And I have NO electrical background either. :)
 
Okay, I think I understand now. Even though there is a pin that the head engages when mounted, the tiny bit of slop in it can put it at an angle that will not only damage the stylus after time but also the record playing and not give you, for the lack of a better word, the performance you should have. Thank you sir!View attachment 1137022
Many head shells have the ability to adjust azimuth. Normally they have a small allen key that can be loosened and you can move the head shell on the collar to make it exact.
 
It doesn't take any special knowledge to use an analog voltmeter and reading the analog display. It's actually easier than using a digital multimeter. And I have NO electrical background either. :)

Oh I have no problem with most analog or digital meters but, I've never used one such as yours nor do I even understand the diagram you posted.
I'm too old to try and learn new tricks at this stage but, I appreciate you trying to help just the same sir.
 
I check it visually on a non spinning record. The reflective side of a CD is about the same thickness and works too. I check it in the middle of the record to eliminate error caused by a raised edge or depressed label area.

I look straight down the cantilever from the front and look for a perfect "hourglass" image where the real cantilever/stylus meets it's image.

I also use a small bubble level, but I don't think it's as accurate.

You can also check it with your ears. Reverse the polarity of one speaker and play a mono tone, maybe 1000hz from a test record. The two speakers will be out of phase and the sound waves will cancel where they meet in your listening area, preferably right between the speakers. It's pretty cool... the sound just disappears. This should occur right between the speakers and you can adjust the azimuth slightly to move the null point if not.

When you're done, don't forget to correct the speaker polarity.

Note- In theory it's probably better to do the polarity reverse thing at the cartridge terminals, but then you have to remove the headshell and remount it. Locking down the headshell might twist it and ruin the azimuth.
 
If you are using output as a way to measure azimuth your anti-skate needs to be precisely adjusted. It may have more affect than slightly misaligned azimuth. Who knows , you may end up compensating for an improper anti-skate adjustment. Bob
 
If you are using output as a way to measure azimuth your anti-skate needs to be precisely adjusted. It may have more affect than slightly misaligned azimuth. Who knows , you may end up compensating for an improper anti-skate adjustment. Bob

All of the initial setups with the exception of antiskate must be done on a stationary surface, you could never use an alignment grid on a spinning surface. Since skating force is produced by velocity and friction, Antiskate can only be properly adjusted on an actual spinning record with the needle in the groove.

The reverse polarity method I described is more of a gimmick and a cool way to demonstrate wave theory to kids. But I think it's a valuable tool to use AFTER everything is set-up. It will help you narrow down problems.
 
You're describing typical channel imbalance that is included in the CB specifications for any cartridge. If you assume a small channel imbalance is because of improper azimuth and then make an adjustment you can't be sure of by eye (which is why you are doing it by ear) you are probably then misadjusting the cartridge azimuth, mistakenly.
Channel imbalance won't matter to wave theory. You can turn the balance control to slightly favor one channel and the waves will still cancel where they meet. You won't get complete cancellation, but the most cancellation will occur where they meet, which is hopefully in the middle.
 
In that regard, if you don't have a calibrated amp output balance, perfect center, perfect angle of dispersion, perfect speaker output balance, perfect hearing balance, ... You could be 1 foot from the center of your perfect experiment and think something is wrong.
+1. In order to eliminate variances in the gain and RIAA filters you really need an instrumentation amp....the kind found in oscilloscopes but with higher gain. This why I don't like these tricks as they measure the whole system and not just azimuth. For this reason I prefer to use my eyes to set the shell level. If the azimuth is off using a visual check it's because the cartridge is defective and should be replaced or repaired.
 
I have always assumed that if my cartridge body was straight up and down, then the stylus would have to follow, being that the stylus should be engineered to fit snugly at the proper vertical alignment. So to make sure the body is at a 90 degree angle to the record surface, I set the stylus on the record, then take an index card whose corners are cut at a perfect 90 degrees and cut a piece small enough to slide just under the headshell. With the bottom of the card's corner flat on the record, the vertical side of the card should butt up against the cartridge body with no gap all the way up and down the length of the cartridge's side. I then check the other side and if it is good, the stylus should also be. Seems to work for me.
 
Sometimes you get a diamond that may not be perfectly square in the cantilever , Using just your eye may not be enough.

If your against using instrumentation measurements to get the job done then at least have a strong loupe to see if the tip is perpendicular to the record surface.

Athanasios
 
Sometimes you get a diamond that may not be perfectly square in the cantilever , Using just your eye may not be enough.

If your against using instrumentation measurements to get the job done then at least have a strong loupe to see if the tip is perpendicular to the record surface.

Athanasios
The tip itself doesn't matter since the part of the stylus that reads the groove is curved. If you're measuring voltages, you're measuring the generator's output (and as I mentioned earlier...all the circuitry that follows it), not the tip.
 
There is a new regimen (software + test records) that uses IMD instead of voltages to compare channels. It does much more than Azimuth but it's also not cheap at $700USD.
 
There is a new regimen (software + test records) that uses IMD instead of voltages to compare channels. It does much more than Azimuth but it's also not cheap at $700USD.

Do you mean the Feickert Adjust+ or the AnalogMagik?
 
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Oh I have no problem with most analog or digital meters but, I've never used one such as yours nor do I even understand the diagram you posted.

Dunno about the diagram you're referring to. But as for using the analog meter, you connect the left RCA interconnct to channel 1 and the right RCA interconnect to channel 2, then read the 2 needles on the meter, which indicate both mV and dBs (so no chart is needed). You're looking to get both needles to match. Easy peasy.
 
Never owned much less seen a 2 channel multimeter so that's certainly helpful.
Now for my next stupid question, I'm assuming there are male/female leads (RCA interconnects?) that will connect to the L&R RCA leads attach to the TT that will connect the meter?dont-know.gif
As far as the diagram, never mind, I see now it's not what at 1st glance I thought it wasdoh.gif
 
Use a run of the mill interconnect from your preamp to the meter. The RCA end for the meter would have this attached, which then connects to the meter's inputs (repeat for the other channel).
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