B2
- Thread starter brinsmead
- Start date
David Litman
Active Member
I understand this might be the wrong place to ask but, I'm sure someone here can help? As said before, I have two pairs of NS-1000's. Since I blew the tweets through my own incompetence changing the speaker terminals on the B-2, I've been plagued with other problems. Since I sent the tweeters to Belgium for repair, I moved the tweets out of the good pair into the blown pair. One speaker no problem but, the other sounds like a tranny radio. Very limited treble and bass. Drivers test ok. Could this be a crossover problem? Never had this before. Time to recap them? I have no idea so, from the symptoms described, is this the likely problem, please?
Are you certain that's not the B-2 that's in trouble?
Like he said ^^^^^
A B-2 that is working properly (i.e does not clip prematurely or sends weird "pops" when you operate the front selector), should not be frying and tweeters. The B-2 and NS-1000 are made for each other.
Send me your Silver B-2 and I will send you a Black one in return, which will not have any issues for another 40 years...new speaker posts, new front selector and other critical components all replaced....That should solve all your B-2 issues and stop frying any more tweeters....but that is if you stay away from the insides of the B-2
David Litman
Active Member
Vint Age;
I am certain my B-2 is restored to beautiful harmony. By juggling the NS-1000 tweeters and whole speaker units about, I have, as my son said "the magic has fully come back to your system".
rottalpha;
I fried the speakers because the new speaker terminals I put in the B-2 shorted out on the chassis. A rookie and stupid mistake on my part. Thank f*** the B-2 survived. "That would have been an extremely stressful situation for them and a true testament to how rugged they are" was a comment by Vint Age. See above, back to April 4, 2021. This amp has been my main amp since around mid nineties and I married her for keeps. So, no wife swapping I'm afraid
Anyway, I really do appreciate your offer but, I ain't whoring my babe out to anyone.
So, back to NS-1000's, anyone reckon the crossovers are fried and in need of repair, please?
I am certain my B-2 is restored to beautiful harmony. By juggling the NS-1000 tweeters and whole speaker units about, I have, as my son said "the magic has fully come back to your system".
rottalpha;
I fried the speakers because the new speaker terminals I put in the B-2 shorted out on the chassis. A rookie and stupid mistake on my part. Thank f*** the B-2 survived. "That would have been an extremely stressful situation for them and a true testament to how rugged they are" was a comment by Vint Age. See above, back to April 4, 2021. This amp has been my main amp since around mid nineties and I married her for keeps. So, no wife swapping I'm afraid
Anyway, I really do appreciate your offer but, I ain't whoring my babe out to anyone.
So, back to NS-1000's, anyone reckon the crossovers are fried and in need of repair, please?
I married her for keeps. So, no wife swapping I'm afraid
Anyway, I really do appreciate your offer but, I ain't whoring my babe out to anyone.
I got a bunch of brunets, but no blondes, so it was worth the try
well, you will have to open that sucker up and inspect it.....the good thing, there are a bunch of replacements available ...on the JP auction site.
Also, I really would not consider repairing those tweeters if those were my NS-1000s.
The coil of the Yamaha NS 1k, 2k and 10k are made out of a special flat bobbin wire. The replacement coils would be typical round wire, hence you will have something close but not the same.
In some cases just the first few windings of the original coil are fried, and sometimes a skillful technician can tap lower on the the coil and get the driver to "work" again. Again, that is a compromise since the impedance of the driver is altered to some extent.
your speakers, your call. If it were mine, I would go for a working replacement from a parts speaker.
David Litman
Active Member
The tweets that are blown are in Belgium (loudspeakerrepair.com) hoping, their keeper will repair them. I have one pair NS-1000's fully working and another pair missing their tweets and one of them with a possible knackered crossover. As I have no idea how to test them, I guess the thing to do is swap out a crossover I know is working for the suspect one and see / hear what happens.
Regarding getting replacement tweets, as I'm sure you know, they are like hens teeth and cost a fortune if, you can find them. I still can't believe I used to blow these regularly using an under powered amp in the eighties and through the naughties. I just threw them away not knowing they could be repaired and bought replacements direct from Yamaha UK. I think I cleared out their stock, here. I believe by around 2012 Yamaha had none left on the planet.
Regarding getting replacement tweets, as I'm sure you know, they are like hens teeth and cost a fortune if, you can find them. I still can't believe I used to blow these regularly using an under powered amp in the eighties and through the naughties. I just threw them away not knowing they could be repaired and bought replacements direct from Yamaha UK. I think I cleared out their stock, here. I believe by around 2012 Yamaha had none left on the planet.
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Nice. So it's all your fault.
bobdod
Super Member
Send me your Silver B-2 and I will send you a Black one in return, which will not have any issues for another 40 years...new speaker posts, new front selector and other critical components all replaced....That should solve all your B-2 issues and stop frying any more tweeters....but that is if you stay away from the insides of the B-2
That's quite the offer to turn down, color be damned. Does that offer apply to my possessed B-2?
Do you mean when powering up the amp to charge the capacitors initially? That's only a 20% increase in charge storage. I can't imagine there would be any significant concerns...
22mF are being used simply because I don't see any 18mF available. If anything, this should allow you to pound the bass even harder.
ttechs
Active Member
@ Belgian Yes, it's about 22 % or so. Initial currents can be crazy high depending on the circuit being used to slow it down a bit. I use thermistors in some builds to slow it down. I am not that up on this circuit, to say one way or the other, so I asked you who know such things.
@V
@V
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Hello everyone,
I've been a member of AK for a while now but this is my first post. I'm in real need of this community. My Audio Research SP3A took a dump last week that sent my #1 B2 into protection that will NOT reset. I cleaned the relay contacts and checked all fuses but nothing. This amp has been with me and working for about 13 years. I own two but my #2 suffers from the front panel switch issues that come and go. I have owned many great amps over the years but the B2 driven with a tube preamp is as close as it gets for me.
Any ideas as to what my next move should be on the protection issue? What is the common fix for the front panel switch issues? Rebuild of the switches or bypass that entire circuit path?
Thanks to all in advance.
Dave
I've been a member of AK for a while now but this is my first post. I'm in real need of this community. My Audio Research SP3A took a dump last week that sent my #1 B2 into protection that will NOT reset. I cleaned the relay contacts and checked all fuses but nothing. This amp has been with me and working for about 13 years. I own two but my #2 suffers from the front panel switch issues that come and go. I have owned many great amps over the years but the B2 driven with a tube preamp is as close as it gets for me.
Any ideas as to what my next move should be on the protection issue? What is the common fix for the front panel switch issues? Rebuild of the switches or bypass that entire circuit path?
Thanks to all in advance.
Dave
bobdod
Super Member
Welcome to AK Dave. Sorry to hear about your B2. I suggest starting your own thread for your topic. I am sure a few of the more knowledgeable folks here will give you some suggestions. Keeping my fingers crossed that your v-Fets didn't get taken behind the barn.
Hi Dave, did you use your B-2 coupled or decoupled. "Normal" or "DC" on the rear panel? It sounds like DC ???..
You should open another thread.
Hi Dave, Like Rott says, if the rear switch was in the "DC" (Direct Couple) position and the preamp dumped DC into the amp, it could've damaged the input FET, depending of course on how much DC was dumped. 
If the input FET was damage, the amp could go into protection mode.
Hopefully your V-FET's are still alive.
If the input FET was damage, the amp could go into protection mode.
Hopefully your V-FET's are still alive.
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My favourite way to address the front panel switch issues is to wire input RCA jacks (new ones, if you are so inclined) directly to the driver board inputs, bypassing the entire front panel switch board.
On my units, it sounded like a veil was lifted revealing a new level of clarity.
That's a good solution but I would also want to maintain the original input impedance when doing that. Directly connecting changes it slightly. Adding a 1.5K and 25K like below fixes that ... and I agree, a veil is lifted. So is the SW irritation factor.
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