Best replacements for these capacitor colors? Blue, Orange, Yellow
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Reliving.
Active Member
I think mine does also but do u know what replacements for these colors are?
I am not aware of the color of the casing on a 'lytic having any indication about some property of the capacitor. To replace the cap, just go by capacitance, voltage, physical size if that's a restraint, and things like ESR, ESL and leakage, if those are critical for your application. I don't think the case color codes for any property of the cap outside of visual appeal.
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gslikker
Super Member
Blue: a small Sanyo solid aluminium one, is in a quality low leakage part of the audio path, known for getting (electrically) leaky (as those can not physically leak 
), replace with a film cap (for example the red Wima's)
Orange, a bigger Nippon Chemicon orange one of bigger capacitance tha then Sanyo, a low leak one, replace with a low leak one (only Nichicon UKL avail) or even better: a film cap like the red wima if it does fit
Yellow, replace with a good quality (read : known brand) one. According the figures on top it looks like a Nippon Chemicon one, maybe long life since the others are usually black ;-) . Just use a generic good one like Panasonic FM,FC,FR, or alike Nichicons or whatever other known good brand.
You need the color for identification, in case of not having other information......
At least, it is what I would do myself .
), replace with a film cap (for example the red Wima's)Orange, a bigger Nippon Chemicon orange one of bigger capacitance tha then Sanyo, a low leak one, replace with a low leak one (only Nichicon UKL avail) or even better: a film cap like the red wima if it does fit
Yellow, replace with a good quality (read : known brand) one. According the figures on top it looks like a Nippon Chemicon one, maybe long life since the others are usually black ;-) . Just use a generic good one like Panasonic FM,FC,FR, or alike Nichicons or whatever other known good brand.
You need the color for identification, in case of not having other information......
At least, it is what I would do myself .
Okke 70s
Super Member
Additionally: those Sanyo (bleu) caps are often part of a circuit that requires them to be stable. So be careful when replacing them, because a substitute to far off from the original value may upset the calibration of the circuit it is part of (say a Dolby amp).
Unless you are able to recalibrate that, I would recommend keeping track of which came from where, and don't throw out the old cap. Not untill the unit is found to be working absolutely perfect with the new caps anyway.
Unless you are able to recalibrate that, I would recommend keeping track of which came from where, and don't throw out the old cap. Not untill the unit is found to be working absolutely perfect with the new caps anyway.
the blue may have been bipolars, I know the org were polarized but selected for audio grade signal path, the yellow am not sure about.
I would use Nichicon bipolars for the orange, and PW grades for the others. Not sure who your distributor or dealer would be in the UK, but would think you can get them there. In the US I would use Mouser or digikey as parts suppliers.
The other tip you may want to try is adding a .1uf film bypass to any org replacements in the signal path. Have done so for many years with excellent results.
I would use Nichicon bipolars for the orange, and PW grades for the others. Not sure who your distributor or dealer would be in the UK, but would think you can get them there. In the US I would use Mouser or digikey as parts suppliers.
The other tip you may want to try is adding a .1uf film bypass to any org replacements in the signal path. Have done so for many years with excellent results.
Okke 70s
Super Member
Nah, they are polarized, as you can see by the markings on the PCB. Not that it matters, if you replace them with (Wima) metal film capacitors, as gslikker suggested.
Reliving.
Active Member
Blue: a small Sanyo solid aluminium one, is in a quality low leakage part of the audio path, known for getting (electrically) leaky (as those can not physically leak
Orange, a bigger Nippon Chemicon orange one of bigger capacitance tha then Sanyo, a low leak one, replace with a low leak one (only Nichicon UKL avail) or even better: a film cap like the red wima if it does fit
Yellow, replace with a good quality (read : known brand) one. According the figures on top it looks like a Nippon Chemicon one, maybe long life since the others are usually black ;-) . Just use a generic good one like Panasonic FM,FC,FR, or alike Nichicons or whatever other known good brand.
You need the color for identification, in case of not having other information......
At least, it is what I would do myself .
Thanks so much is it possible to link me some from Digikey Uk?
for smaller values, going to film is no problem. for larger values 100uf and up, stick with electrolytics and add a bypass film cap to them.
not sure if this will come through but here is digikey in the UK.
DigiKey Electronics United Kingdom | Free Delivery On Orders Over £33
if link does not come through, just google digikey UK and it should come up.
not sure if this will come through but here is digikey in the UK.
DigiKey Electronics United Kingdom | Free Delivery On Orders Over £33
if link does not come through, just google digikey UK and it should come up.
