Binding posts suggestions

[shacky]

I'd like to replace the spring type binding posts on my EPI 202's. Can anyone recommend a good replacement?

 

[VQLT]

shacky, let me know what you find out. I would like to replace the same on my epicure model 4's

 

[shacky]

Anybody try these:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=091-1245&scqty=2

Or these:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=091-1150&ctab=14#Tabs

 

[luvvinvinyl]

I used these, from PE (the first link) on several pairs of EPIs.

 

[shacky]

Cool. They look nice. Will order. Just have to double check capacitor values for same order.

 

[avguytx]

I've used both the 091-1150's (shown above) and the 091-1250's pretty much on every speaker I've replaced them on. The 1250's are my pick because I just like that design but right now, they are a little higher than when I bought them awhile back. They had been $9.90 for a pack of 4 which was enough to do a pair of speakers. They still aren't bad at $11.33, though.

 

[pat5jfet]

I have done this on two EPIs and now is the time to just build a new board with binding posts and new cross over caps for the tweeters. Madisound or Parts Express will have the high end machined binding posts, but you could just go to Rat Shack or another local retail vendor and do a cheaper version. Thick plastic or 1/4" wood would do for the board. Drill holes 3/4" apart for the binding posts if you want to use the standard plugs.

 

[sleddogman]

I've used both the 091-1150's (shown above) and the 091-1250's pretty much on every speaker I've replaced them on. The 1250's are my pick because I just like that design but right now, they are a little higher than when I bought them awhile back. They had been $9.90 for a pack of 4 which was enough to do a pair of speakers. They still aren't bad at $11.33, though.

Do those 1250s come with solder tabs or do you just wrap wire around the end of the post and solder it? Just curious as I don't see any tabs in their photos.
I've used the 091-1245 posts like luvvinvinyl which come with the solder tabs.

 

[gearhound]

I've used PE 091-1150's on the following speakers with good results:
Genesis 1+
Avid 100
Coral BX-200
Coral BX-801
Boston Acoustic A40

Steve

 

[Zilch]

Y'a'll recognize the ass end of the satin nickel version (091-1247) of 091-1245 on every DIY crossover I've posted in these forums. :yes:

[Personal preference.... : ]

 

[shacky]

Is there a reason to replace original crossover board with the 4 ohm/16 ohm switch and hi freq attenuator? I was thinking of leaving as is and just replacing caps and binding posts.

 

[pat5jfet]

http://www.humanspeakers.com/e/epi202.htm

I looked at the crossover schematic and IMHO you should leave it as is and just replace the caps and posts. This has a switch to set impedance on one side and a pot on one side for the tweeter (bright/less bright). I hope the pot is OK, mabye need cleaning. This will be an oustanding speaker when completed.

 

[shacky]

http://www.humanspeakers.com/e/epi202.htm

I looked at the crossover schematic and IMHO you should leave it as is and just replace the caps and posts. This has a switch to set impedance on one side and a pot on one side for the tweeter (bright/less bright). I hope the pot is OK, mabye need cleaning. This will be an oustanding speaker when completed.

I agree! Now what about the surrounds? The one that was detaching has me thinking - should I re-foam all woofers to make sure they are 100%?

I intend to use 10 uF with a 0.1 uF Film crossovers. These do seem a little brighter than what I'm use to - AR 2AX - but I am appreciating the detailed hi's. They put out a lot of bass but not as low as the AR's which is why I'm wondering if re-foam will gain me anything. And I like the unusual look - like me

 

[pat5jfet]

Given the potential for an outstanding system (and age of drivers), refoam all. Those tweeters like new caps, note the schematic had 8.0 mfd, your picture looks like 10.0 mfd. You can use a nonpolar and bypass with 0.1 film or use a 8.0 or 10.0 Dayton or better from Parts Express. I have use 4.7 nonpolar bypassed with 4.0 or so film on my EPIs. Big values are less expensive now, and you won't have to glue two caps together in parallel.

 

[shacky]

When using bypass cap, do you install it "paralell" like adding 2 4's to get 8? Or do you put it in line in front or after the other cap?

These woofers have rubber surrounds. Replacements I've seen are foam. Is foam OK or should I keep looking?

 

[Detailman]

I can't really tell from the pic.
Are they all torn up or just unglued?

If just loose you can reglue.
Use rubber surround if that is what was there.

 

[shacky]

Just had the one that needed obvious reglueing. They do not appear to be torn up.

 

[gearhound]

Black RTV should work fine....if that is all that's wrong with it?

Steve

 

[shacky]

Just realized one of the side firing tweeters wasn't playing. Fiddled with attenuator and it's fine now. So I'll need to get in there and clean attenuators - thie one giving trouble looks corroded around exposed inner washer.

Sound even better now! I am thrilled with these EPI's. :tresbon:

 

[pat5jfet]

Caps add in parallel. I glue the stack together and twist the leads, then solder. There is an endless debate on rubber vs foam. Both go over time but foam only lasts around 10 years or so depending on heat, moisture, abuse, &c, &c. Many think that foam drivers are quicker in bass attack and are more articulate. I have both foam (rebuilt) and rubber (original) EPI drivers. I use foam rebuilds on my M 50s.
I would contact some speaker experts who do driver rebuilds. Many have ads on audiokarma. I use an old firm in Tampa (The Speaker Exchange) for my rebuild work. Even if the rubber surrounds look OK they get brittle and stiffer over 3 decades, the probable age of your find.