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Birthday Present! Denon DP-1200

jleon92f said:
Check Cold solder joints on Power supply PCB. I find this all the time.

John.:music::D
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Would I still have 120V if I had a solder joint issue? Newb question probably.

I just rebuilt and oiled and lubed the motor. It's in great condition.

I do have a cap on the power pcb that is a little loose. Let me pull the whole board out and check.
 
fizzgig said:
So, I finally deox'd all switches and pots. Still no joy. Checked output of CN3 (voltage to motor) and all is good there at 120V according to my multimeter. So I know the motor has power going to it. But no life in the motor. I'm not sure I have a way to check the motor itself. The spindle moves freely so I'm sure it's not locked up.

At a loss at this point.
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Just an idea, but have you done a continuity check of the motor with it removed? If you are not getting a positive reading, that may mean that the motor windings are burned out. It seems unlikely though...
 
Treker said:
Just an idea, but have you done a continuity check of the motor with it removed? If you are not getting a positive reading, that may mean that the motor windings are burned out. It seems unlikely though...
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You know what, I never did. Just checked...I didn't get a beep from the multimeter, no matter what wires I used. 198 kept showing up on the screen too.

Crap...is this motor toast? I have a buddy with some better equipment than my little sears craftsman. Could I hook the motor up to a different power source to see if it spins up?
 
fizzgig said:
Snip! Could I hook the motor up to a different power source to see if it spins up?
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Honestly, that's what I would do, but just make sure you are hooking it up to the right power. Check the schematics of the service manual first. I am assuming it is supposed to see 120VAC, but you don't want to make a mistake on that. Also, if you have a way to feed it a lower voltage, such as hooking it up through a dimmer switch, that would allow you to test it at low voltage before turning it up. You could use a dim bulb tester as well. If the motor is good, you don't want to burn it up by feeding it too high a voltage or the wrong type of power (AC vs. DC).
 
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Yeah, the output to the motor on the power pcb was 120V straight up.

Oh man, I just realized, if this thing is burned out, I'm gonna feel so sorry for my step father in law. :thumbsdn::sigh: He was so excited he got this for me. But he never tried to test it or anything.
 
The motor can run on a lower-that-line AC voltage for a check. Download the service manual if you haven't already done so.
This is a relatively simple DD system, the motor not being workable is very unlikely. Remount it and move on, I'd be looking elsewhere like doing voltage checks and looking for defective solder joints on the ckt board around the larger power transistors such.
 
I'm with Pio on this one I think, the Motor I imagine is durable &reliable and not toast.

The little switch (#2), if not working, will prevent the turntable from turning on properly, because it will think the tonearm is constantly in the locked position and will not spin.


If you bypass it, it will not turn off the turntable when you move the tonearm from rest to the locked position. I imagine you should be able to just flip the main power switch manually in that case.
 
Can you take a close look at the capacitor i circled and confirm that it is NOT bulging? When I zoom in on the picture it looks as if the top of the cap is bulging, if it is in fact bulging, that could be the culprit.
 

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Zodia said:
Can you take a close look at the capacitor i circled and confirm that it is NOT bulging? When I zoom in on the picture it looks as if the top of the cap is bulging, if it is in fact bulging, that could be the culprit.
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Doesn't appear to be, nope.
 

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