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BOSE 901 EQ Restoration

ToastedMaple

New Member
Good Day Fellow AK Members

Recently, Leestereo completed restoration of my Marantz 2270. Success of this project prompted me to revive a project to restore the Equalizer for my beloved 901 Series II. I have three, sets of 901's. Pity me if you must. The active set have the Walnut Facing kit for Series I/II. I'm restoring another set for my daughter.

For context on the restoration, consider the Bose 901 Active Equalizer as a supplement to your existing tone controls. Without any cross-over for the 9 drivers in each channel, it is an essential component of the 901 sound. Now, after 40+ years, the EQ electrolytics are most certainly suspect, but also the many carbon resistors that shape the tone curve will likely have drifted and affected the equalization curve.

With Leestereo’s analysis in hand, I repopulated the board with higher-value electrolytics, film caps and 1% resistors. Some electrolytics were replaced with bipolar film capacitors for better quality audio. New transistors (there are 5 per channel) were selected for low noise and matched for hFE. Phono jacks were upgraded and respected for modern connectors. Tape lop was left intact. The complete parts list is attached with Mouser PN, analysis and recommendations, again, courtesy of Leestereo's deep experience in vintage restoration.

Most of us won’t need the full range of +18dB boost but I have tinnitus and a bit is most welcome. Bass is superb, tight and detailed and getting better, possibly as the caps (in both my 2270 and the EQ) bed in.

This was my first electronics restoration project. It was daunting to depopulate and re-install nearly 100 components. I am very grateful to Leestereo for his advice, enormous patience with a newbie, and support. I learned a lot about restoration and trouble-shooting as well (after I installed the &^*% transistors backwards!).

This board was not unmolested, prior restoration work, and that posed some additional challenges. Pictures attached of original board, intermediate and semi-final project, as well as parts list, noted above.

Please feel free to pose any questions.IMG_0868.jpgDepopulated Boards.jpgBoard in process.jpg

Best Regards, DGC
 

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Nice job. those old carbon comp resistors aren't especially tight tolerance to begin with so modern precision ones should help. Any chance you measured the removed ones to see how close or far off tolerance they were?
 
Looking good!

Removing the components from the board is a royal PITA! Bose must have used some kind of sheering/cutting tool that squashes the ends of the component leads, making removing them difficult. I have done two so far, one was built on an unpopulated board, one had all the components on. The first one was a lot easier than the second.

I find the aesthetics of the earlier equalizers not very pleasing. It was always a plan of mine to build one in a more modern, full width case. I would add an LED meter, power switch, maybe an extra tape loop, stuff like that. Sadly, a lot of my dream projects never get done.

Here is a link to the ones I did :

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/bose-901-equalizer-built-from-scratch.631535/

Lee.
 
Hi Gadget73. No - should have but I was too consumed with cleaning them off the board.
I measured a few just now on another EQ, for curiosity. Resistors are in same circuit position for Left and Right channels:
R1: 173.1k, R41: 153.3k (150K/10%),
R2: 51.2k, R42: 50.5k (47k/10%)
R3: 1.1k, R43: 1.1k (1k/10%)

So, There are a few 5% here and there. Maybe in more critical points for signal shaping?
Cheers
 
Nice work Leesonic. For my part on aesthetics, I kept the look but will replace the particleboard case with solid walnut. There's a guy online selling a black faceplate for the Series II. It would look nice with my blackface 2270.
 
So, There are a few 5% here and there. Maybe in more critical points for signal shaping?

probably. Cap value tolerances would also affect where things operate, and I'd expect the films to be a fair bit tighter so that should improve accuracy somewhat as well. At a minimum, having everything fresh should make them match better channel to channel.
 
I wish that I could put the EQ on a scope to see the response curves. There's a testing procedure in the Service manual for this. Just what I need: more tools!
 
You can measure the response of the EQ with free software and a high res sound card. I use Arta, actually the companion program LIMP, software and an external USB Soundblaster.
John
 
Good Morning John
Great suggestion, thank you. Another fun project! I have a MIDI interface for my MacBook that should do the trick. I am reading the there are apps for audio tone generator function from an iPhone. Music production software should allow me to see the actual signal. I will investigate and report back.
Best Regards, Don
 
Thanks again John. just dug out the box to check. It's a TASCAM 1x2 Audio/Midi interface. I've used it to digitize LPs. Has adjustable mic/line/instrument levels for audio and USB. I have found a lot of software to check out.
 
What a timely thread. Thanks ToastedMaple for pointing it out to me. Just picked up a nice looking set of Series II with EQ. I’ve never done any restoration work so I’m unsure if I’ll do the work myself but I do plan on getting the EQ recapped.

Walnut facing kit? Those wood panels that go on the sides and front? Those look sharp. I wonder how hard it would be to make a set?
 
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Here's a 901 Series VI eq curve made with Room EQ Wizard and a Tascam US-144. Instead of using the microphone like usual, I just looped the output/input channel of the US-144 through the Bose EQ. Bass setting 1, the sliders at the mid-point detents.

Inadvertently cut off the frequency scale when I snipped the graph, but the lower and upper bounds are 20Hz & 20kHz.

901_SerVI_EQ.JPG
 
I just ordered everything off the list that ToastedMaple provided so I can rebuild my Bose 901 II equalizer. Total with CA sales tax and shipping = $63.15. Not cheap, but it's about the journey for me :-)
 
Good on you. Leesonic notes above that it's difficult to remove components and I found this too. You'll need to pull hard - particularly resistors (Yes I desoldered first).
 
thanks ToastedMaple... I just did a complete recap of my Pioneer SX-750 and removing the components was easy. I did see that y'all noted that Bose has made this harder, and I'm not looking forward to that. Thanks so much for putting that list together, it gives me something to do while in quarantine (as if I need more projects)
 
Hi again, it took 6 weeks to get all these components from mouser, but it all finally arrived. Now to get down to it! Will keep you posted as to how it goes.
 
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