Bozaks?

[Brandon Mull]

I bet there is beautiful wood under that paint.

Yea I have contemplated the nightmare process of paint stripping all those nooks and crannies… only contemplated! Hahaha

 

[djnagle]

With the right stuff the paint will bubble and scrape right off.

 

[Brandon Mull]

With the right stuff the paint will bubble and scrape right off.

Oh yea? What makes it simple? I have tried to remove paint on house trim years ago and that crap was zero fun!

 

[djnagle]

That is on a house. On furniture, most of the time, the paint was applied over some sort of clearcoat which blocks the paint from soaking into the wood. When that is the case, the paint will just bubble up. No guarantee that is the case but mostly it is.

 

[Brandon Mull]

That is on a house. On furniture, most of the time, the paint was applied over some sort of clearcoat which blocks the paint from soaking into the wood. When that is the case, the paint will just bubble up. No guarantee that is the case but mostly it is.

Ah- well that makes sense!

 

[djnagle]

To my eye, those cabs look like end tables made into speakers. I had a pair of speakers from end tables. The guy did a great job on them and they had Jensen three-way drivers..... maybe the 610??? It was a long time ago.

 

[drbiggles]

I collect, listen to and resell audio stuff.

You’re going to want to pass these on. Those tweeters are the 200X paper cone and are gone around 8k. That midrange driver is the least desirable B209A. It’s known for a factory buzzy cone so they added a damping ring to quiet it down. After 60 years that ring has failed and left you with a lousy midrange driver. The woofer is a solid contender. But it’s a 1950s version and can’t handle much more than 25 watts, they tend to get blown a lot easier. I’d pass these along.

Biggles

 

[Brandon Mull]

You’re going to want to pass these on. Those tweeters are the 200X paper cone and are gone around 8k. That midrange driver is the least desirable B209A. It’s known for a factory buzzy cone so they added a damping ring to quiet it down. After 60 years that ring has failed and left you with a lousy midrange driver. The woofer is a solid contender. But it’s a 1950s version and can’t handle much more than 25 watts, they tend to get blown a lot easier. I’d pass these along.

Biggles

That’s the plan, was just trying to learn what exactly they were.

 

[malden]

I saw those- close but not exact. I am debating on approach as to what I may do with these.

I personally would have no problem chucking those cabinets and building something much more minimal for the Bozaks

 

[Nat]

drbiggles - I'm curious how you could tell what iteration of the drivers are in the cabinets. Paper vs aluminum for the tweeter would be obvious in person, but from the picture, I would have guessed aluminum - the paper ones I've seen have been paler. And the midrange I wouldn't have a clue.
Could you elucidate?

 

[JohnJavier]

Looks to me like the newly acquired speakers (green speakers in post #1) have 200Y tweeters ( black dust caps) and the 302 Urbans shown in post #18, have the 200X tweeters (shiny dust caps). I can’t differentiate the midranges by sight, so not sure what version they are, but the 209b or 209c versions are more desirable than the 209a. So, if my assumptions are correct, you may want to swap the newer(?) drivers from the green cabinets into the appropriately sized urban cabinets shown in post #18.

 

[drbiggles]

drbiggles - I'm curious how you could tell what iteration of the drivers are in the cabinets. Paper vs aluminum for the tweeter would be obvious in person, but from the picture, I would have guessed aluminum - the paper ones I've seen have been paler. And the midrange I wouldn't have a clue.
Could you elucidate?

Many years of hands on work with Bozaks. The paper tweeters have bright chrome dust caps, the mids you can see the damping ring around if you pinch in on the image. Once you see it in person, it stands out.

Biggles

 

[Brandon Mull]

Looks to me like the newly acquired speakers (green speakers in post #1) have 200Y tweeters ( black dust caps) and the 302 Urbans shown in post #18, have the 200X tweeters (shiny dust caps). I can’t differentiate the midranges by sight, so not sure what version they are, but the 209b or 209c versions are more desirable than the 209a. So, if my assumptions are correct, you may want to swap the newer(?) drivers from the green cabinets into the appropriately sized urban cabinets shown in post #18.

I haven’t ventured into any disassembly of Bozaks tweeter woofer combos yet, is it easy to do or is it fairly complicated?

 

[JohnJavier]

Easy to do. The tweeters are connected to the “bridge” with two screws on the right/left. The four screws in the middle simply hold the tweeters together and complete the bridge. Since we know that the tweeters in the green speakers are the newer version it’s probably safe to assume that the woofers are newer as well. There is a date code stamped on the magnet of every driver. If the woofers are newer, I’d just swap the entire B-207 assemble (consists of 199 woofer, b-200 tweeters and tweeter bridge/mounting ring). Also, while you’re in there, check the midrange version. As stated by drbiggles, you’ll want the 209B or 209C versions. If all drivers are in good working order, the little effort involved in swapping drivers will be well refunded.

 

[Brandon Mull]

Easy to do. The tweeters are connected to the “bridge” with two screws on the right/left. The four screws in the middle simply hold the tweeters together and complete the bridge. Since we know that the tweeters in the green speakers are the newer version it’s probably safe to assume that the woofers are newer as well. There is a date code stamped on the magnet of every driver. If the woofers are newer, I’d just swap the entire B-207 assemble (consists of 199 woofer, b-200 tweeters and tweeter bridge/mounting ring). Also, while you’re in there, check the midrange version. As stated by drbiggles, you’ll want the 209B or 209C versions. If all drivers are in good working order, the little effort involved in swapping drivers will be well refunded.

Awesome! Thank you.

 

[twiiii]

There are two versions that come to my mind. The 302 in the 5 cu ft enclosure for extended bass that are floor standers. The other is the 313 which is a 302 in a smaller 2+ cu ft box meant to be placed on a shelf of some type. My 313 side speaker start rolling of at 55 hz being the side speakers for my HT system. The tweeter woofer are at ear height against a wall. A friend of mine had 6.5 Cu ft taller boxes built with the woofer close to the floor with the tweeters on top of the midranges. The tweeters were 44 inches off the floor. They were the best sounding 302 speakers systems I ever heard using the Tobin mod and tweeter crossover up grades. I never liked the 302 or 305 because the tweeters were to close to the floor and the 305 the tweeters were placed far apart side by side which is not a good design. And yes you should have a 1.5 inch curtain of the wool based speaker lining hanging from the top of the enclosure directly against the magnet of the speaker. It stops internal reflections and makes the woofer think it is in a larger box extending the bass response and reduces ringing of the woofer cone. The back of the midrange should be covered by a stuffed rigid box or bowl. The mid drivers and tweeters models must be known before selecting the correct Tobin mod. I don't use the mod as I bi-amp my speakers and added super tweeters. With just a bit of voicing the response of my Concert Grands is 23 to 18,000 +/- 2 db. the response of the 4005 low boy Symphonys is +/- 3 db 30 to 20,000 hz and the response of the 313's is +/- 3 db 50 to 14,000 hz with voicing not using super tweeters.

 

[Brandon Mull]

Easy to do. The tweeters are connected to the “bridge” with two screws on the right/left. The four screws in the middle simply hold the tweeters together and complete the bridge. Since we know that the tweeters in the green speakers are the newer version it’s probably safe to assume that the woofers are newer as well. There is a date code stamped on the magnet of every driver. If the woofers are newer, I’d just swap the entire B-207 assemble (consists of 199 woofer, b-200 tweeters and tweeter bridge/mounting ring). Also, while you’re in there, check the midrange version. As stated by drbiggles, you’ll want the 209B or 209C versions. If all drivers are in good working order, the little effort involved in swapping drivers will be well refunded.

What are the capacitor ratings to replace- the caps say 5mfd. Is the the Sam as a film foil cap of 5uf?

 

[Brandon Mull]

Definite different components.

 

[drbiggles]

Definite different components.

Mish mash. Has worth on ebay, not in stereo pair. B209A, B209C from B313 system, 1950s B207a woofer tweeter combo. N10102 crossovers are all good no matter what year, wonderful inductors. Or put back in cabinets and put back up for sale the way you found them. Way too much time and money to make a nice Bozak system out of at this point.

Biggles

 

[Brandon Mull]

Easy to do. The tweeters are connected to the “bridge” with two screws on the right/left. The four screws in the middle simply hold the tweeters together and complete the bridge. Since we know that the tweeters in the green speakers are the newer version it’s probably safe to assume that the woofers are newer as well. There is a date code stamped on the magnet of every driver. If the woofers are newer, I’d just swap the entire B-207 assemble (consists of 199 woofer, b-200 tweeters and tweeter bridge/mounting ring). Also, while you’re in there, check the midrange version. As stated by drbiggles, you’ll want the 209B or 209C versions. If all drivers are in good working order, the little effort involved in swapping drivers will be well refunded.

I am not so sure the swapped mid will fit…

Mish mash. Has worth on ebay, not in stereo pair. B209A, B209C from B313 system, 1950s B207a woofer tweeter combo. N10102 crossovers are all good no matter what year, wonderful inductors. Or put back in cabinets and put back up for sale the way you found them. Way too much time and money to make a nice Bozak system out of at this point.

Biggles