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c220 or C2200

ron-c said:
We, McIntosh have never claimed we made our remote controls. We use the same vendors as all the other companies.

Thanks,
Ron-C

I don't think there is anything wrong with the 201 remote. It has a good feel, back-lit, heavy, don't have to worry about scratching it.

Have you ever seen a Arcam remote on one of their $3000 players? plastic

The 201 remote is from the same company that many well known Mfg. use. I think its good.

Indy
 
Indy said:
I don't think there is anything wrong with the 201 remote. It has a good feel, back-lit, heavy, don't have to worry about scratching it.

Have you ever seen a Arcam remote on one of their $3000 players? plastic

The 201 remote is from the same company that many well known Mfg. use. I think its good.

Indy

I agree the 201 is pretty good. I just wish I could use it to control my C2200 instead of the other way around.:no:
 
howiebrou said:
I agree the 201 is pretty good. I just wish I could use it to control my C2200 instead of the other way around.:no:




AMEN BROTHER!!!!

I like the 201 remote...

If it would control my 6300, insted of vise versa, I would be very happy.

The 6300 remote only lights up half way... the WRONG half...
 
From the picture, it looks the same as my C220 remote. For a plastic "universal" style remote, the three things I like best are:
  1. Rubbery feel, instead of the typical hard plastic. Nicely done.
  2. Blue lit buttons.
  3. Relatively heavy feel, compared to other consumer remotes. This last item is the weakest compliment, but still...
All in all, I think it would be a great idea for McIntosh to provide some optional higher quality remotes. What a tweak accessory that would be! I've owned aluminum remotes before (Classe Audio) and they were very cool. But remembering the scratch that sucker made on my coffee table, I wonder why no one offers a leather-covered remote with an aluminum face?

Perhaps the market for high end remotes is under served? :scratch2:
 
I wonder why no one offers a leather-covered remote with an aluminum face?
Or a combination of wood and leather? I've seen wood remotes, just don't remember where. :scratch2:
 
PHC1 said:
Or a combination of wood and leather? I've seen wood remotes, just don't remember where. :scratch2:

Unison Research Remotes are Wood + Aluminium in typical Italian Style :thmbsp:
 
What was the original thread question?? Oh yes, got it.
Why don't you guys just get out your duct-tape and tape all of them together for the perfect uni-versal remote!:lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:
 
barrynsue said:
Sure would! Wonder if the interface is blue?
Mine's grey-scale, no blue involved. The only complaints I have about it are that it eats batteries and that its computer software is a bit primitive.

The only thing I wish is that the software was upgraded so that you just input which Mc units you have, and all the right codes get loaded in. Ideally, this would be updated for each new model.

Here's the link to the Mc site's page:
http://www.mcintoshlabs.com/mcprod/shopdisplayproducts.asp?hid=1&id=16&cat=IR+Remote+Control
 
Victor said:
Very interesting. :scratch2:
I'm glad you are enjoying your C220 and MC402. :yes:
Where did you get the mu-metal from? And ERS?
Have you used the mu-metal for other things?
Victor

I had to dig up the mu-metal link...http://www.lessemf.com/emf-shie.html
I think I spoke to the guy that runs that site prior to ordering it... at least a few years ago. I bought it to shield transformers in an amp I was making. It did lower the sound floor a (very) small amount in that particular amp but I had some leftover. I basically used it to create a box to attach the ERS cloth to. ERS link: http://www.stillpoints.us/Pages/ers_cloth.htm

A lot of folks sell ERS, it's a pretty common tweak... It's a very effective shield but please be aware that 1, It can actually lower some extension if used around some signal-carrying areas and, 2, it is conductive... don't let it create a path where one shouldn't be!

I'll take photos when I get my tubes back... should be soon. Can't wait to hear 'em. It'll probably take a few days or even a couple of weeks for the tubes to settle down from their freezing effects.

Disclaimer:
I'm not a 'huge tweaker' that believes a lot of the nonsense out there... (believe it or not...) I've just found a few things to work for me, in my system and if they work for others, great.. if not, sorry. There may be science to support the improvements I've experienced, but I don't know it well enough to explain it. I know it well enough to try it safely and remove it if it doesn't work... that's all. Tweak at your own risk, physically and mentally. ;)
 
Carlman,

Thanks for the info and links. :)

I still have a few things to do setting up my system, but I will investigate this for a possible future tweak.

Victor
 
Just a question;
When it comes to audio performance It is my understanding that one desirable attribute of a pre-amp is how quiet the unit is, or contributes the least amount of noise to the audio signal.
That said, would someone explain the significance of these numbers
C220 S/N -90dB
C2200 S/N -93dB
C15 S/N -105dB
 
vahe said:
Just a question;
When it comes to audio performance It is my understanding that one desirable attribute of a pre-amp is how quiet the unit is, or contributes the least amount of noise to the audio signal.
That said, would someone explain the significance of these numbers
C220 S/N -90dB
C2200 S/N -93dB
C15 S/N -105dB

Based on the above numbers, my explanation would be:

1. C220 - quiet
2. C2200 - more quiet
3. C15 - most quiet

But then, the C220/C2200 are tubes. The C15 I think is SS, ... and indeed impressive.

But this is only one side of the story, ....... :music:
 
Jerry Seh said:
1. C220 - quiet
2. C2200 - more quiet
3. C15 - most quiet


No pun intended here, I am learning to interpret these numbers. Discounting all the fancy & desirable features in a top of the line preamp, to me the guts, or the core performance is what stands out as we hear the audio signal traveling through all these electronics and finally come alive at the speaker end.
The C220 with -90dB S/N is quiet indeed, so is my 30 year old C29 with the same -90dB S/N, but is it quiet enough by today’s standards?
In checking out the noise level of all Mac SS vs tube preamps, old and new, one fact stands out, the SS on the average has 10dB less noise than the same period tube unit. This seems to explain why many prefer the tube preamps, they have more noise which automatically means more analog sounding.
 
vahe said:
No pun intended here, I am learning to interpret these numbers. Discounting all the fancy & desirable features in a top of the line preamp, to me the guts, or the core performance is what stands out as we hear the audio signal traveling through all these electronics and finally come alive at the speaker end.
The C220 with -90dB S/N is quiet indeed, so is my 30 year old C29 with the same -90dB S/N, but is it quiet enough by today’s standards?
In checking out the noise level of all Mac SS vs tube preamps, old and new, one fact stands out, the SS on the average has 10dB less noise than the same period tube unit. This seems to explain why many prefer the tube preamps, they have more noise which automatically means more analog sounding.

Sorry this is the best I could make out about the numbers. As for your findings, I respect that.

As I have done away with the Pre Amp altogether and find I loved the MDA1k performance, never looked back since.
 
I think you also have to take the harmonic distortion into account. Obviously tubes will usually have more. In the case of say MDA used as a preamp you can expect SNR better than 110dB and HD of 0.002% the C2200 will have 0.08% but that is also very impressive for a tube pre.
 
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