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CA-1000...Lots of Help...

Roger Gorke

Well-Known Member
And you all didn't even know you did!

I've been pining for a CA-800, CA-1000, CA-1010 or similar since I first restored my CR-600, then CR-800. I took the plunge (and gamble) and got one off that auction site from Japan at 100v. The ad said it was untested and only turned on, meaning the red light went on. I have read through most, if not all, of the CA-1000 restoration threads and figured I could fix it, especially at the price I got it. I knew, at a minimum, I could run it off my variac and potentially switch taps if it had the right power transformer.

It arrived on two days ago. I opened it up and did a visual to see if anything look burnt or really messed up inside. Fortunately, it looked really good, dirty but good. I blew it out with some compressed air and squirted the pots really good with Deoxit. Then I slowly brought the power up with the variac...then I heard the 'click' and thought, well that's good news!

Then I went through and checked all the voltages and they were all very close. For example, the primary differential was 15.5 v. After setting all the voltages dead nuts on, I plugged my iPhone into the aux and out came great sounding music!!!

After successfully testing the phono inputs, I decided to install some better speaker binding posts for the A speakers. I was then getting this horrible farting low end noise when I turned the amp up past 2. Evidently, I didn’t have the back panel secured properly and something was shorting. Once I got it straight, that noise went away….until…I started getting a hum from phono 1.

Every other input phono 2, aux 1 and 2, etc was dead quiet, just phono 1. I figured that since phono 1 goes through the MC board, it must be those caps. I replaced the six electrolytic caps (I only had 220uf 50v, so that’s a bit over kill…). Hum still there. So I pulled out the function board and the rear input board and sprayed dexoit in the function switches and in the phono 1 selector switch and worked them back and forth really good. Success!!!

Both of those potential sources of hum came from years old threads and posts from merrylander and avionic.

Plans moving forward include leaving it as is for a bit to see if anything else needs fixing.

I plan on switching the PT tap to run it on 117v.

I may consider a full recap at some point in the near future.
 

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While the CA-1000 is a great amp, the CA-1010 provides a different sound so if you are willing to take another gamble try the same auction site, CA-1000iii, japanese domestic version, sadly wired to 100Vac so a stepdown is required but that's a small price...
 
Good.. Remove the yellow wire from the switch and connect the brown wire from the power transformer to where the yellow wire was on the switch. for 117vac. Put a wire nut on the yellow wire or wrap electrical tape around the end of the yellow wire to insulate it.
 
Good.. Remove the yellow wire from the switch and connect the brown wire from the power transformer to where the yellow wire was on the switch. for 117vac. Put a wire nut on the yellow wire or wrap electrical tape around the end of the yellow wire to insulate it.
Thanks!!! Exactly my plan!!! I had been obsessing on the schematic before it got here and that (transformer # and finding the brown capped wire) was one of the first things I looked for.
One question is in the schematic, there is a 0.3A fuse that connects to “5” and “6”. Not sure what that’s for…
 

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While the CA-1000 is a great amp, the CA-1010 provides a different sound so if you are willing to take another gamble try the same auction site, CA-1000iii, japanese domestic version, sadly wired to 100Vac so a stepdown is required but that's a small price...
Yeah, I really do like those gauges!!!
 
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Yeah, I really do like those gauges!!!
Not really a gauge person, unless it's somethink meaty like the M-5000, plenty of vintage gear with.
I prefer the CA-1000 for an all round package however everytime I play the CA-1010 I'm gobsmacked by the speaker drive/control along with the usual soundstage/air/highs...
 
Been listening and noticed the left channel is a bit quieter than the right and confirmed with a 1khz test tone that the left is about 25% less ac voltage than the right. Both Class A and AB. I've found several threads on cleaning switches as a potential fix and also one where the volume/balance pot was a bit funky. I'd like to get this figured out before any other major "restoration".

I'll be doing a Mouser order to get some new snap action switches and will be getting this one. There is one avionic recommends but they are out of that one and this is another 21A switch. And I know to NOT switch between class A and AB while the amp is on!!!!! : )
653-V-21-3C6

In terms of cap replacements, I do have a couple of general questions. Why change out the tantalum caps? Reliability? tone? I did see a list of electrolytic caps that someone used but its just a list and not location specific.
 
Another data point that just occurred to me is that when I was testing the channels, I used my computer plugged into the AUX to get the 1k test tone. When I first turned it on, it was buzzy and distorted. I looked at the inputs and realized that I inadvertently plugged the computer into the tuner input and had the selector on AUX 1.

The fact that there was any signal bleeding through to the AUX from the tuner input seems to imply cross connections and dirty switches that need

Am I thinking about this correctly?
 
Unsolder it from the function board.
I don't think you were understanding my question or just busting my chops...LOL! I was trying to figure out how many solder connections the switch has to the board. The "lines of connections" were the 2 sets of 21 connections running along the switch.

I got it out!!!
 
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